I plan to provide the following:

Pic's
Data points of voltage at every k of rpm.
Before and After Dynos.
General impressions.

I will than be providing my dynos to Excelerate and UR. Maybe I will get some free stickers out of it.

 

and it will all be done this weekend right.

 

They do make stock size aluminum pulley kits (crank, ps, alternator), but just not for the TSX.

 

You also might want to consider getting another dyno run in a few days down the road. Sometimes the ECU does not adjust immediately to the lighter weight pulleys. In fact, UR says you need 5-7 days to allow the ECU to adjust to the pulleys. That being said, ECU's can learn driving patterns and adjust for performance and gas economy. For instance, I have a friend who is an Audi tech. When customers complain about their cars being not as responsive they will flash the ECU and then have a tech drive the car for a couple hours somewhat aggressively, i.e. revving the vehicle out. So maybe you should disconnect the battery during the install just as a auxiliary measure.

 

That doesn't make sense, a higher-rated alternator (if you can even find one that fits) would need an overdrive pulley so it could drain MORE power from the engine to give to the electric system. You could still put all the other pulleys (AC compressor, crank, power steering) in and get whatever gains there are to be had there.

Don't bemoan your lost power though -- the alternator itself only outputs 110A * 14.4V = 1584 W = 2hp at peak, factor in a 50% efficiency (which would be horrifically bad, I'm sure it's actually much more efficient) to get 4hp draw -- this is the most you could possibly gain by underdriving the alternator all the way into nonexistence (of course then your car wouldn't run). Similarly if you got an alternator with double the output it would only cost you 4hp.

A *lighter* pulley shouldn't really help on its own, since the energy that goes into a heavy pulley to speed it up will come back out of it when you slow down. However a pulley that has less resistance to spinning (friction with its axle) could theoretically help some. I predict this effect would be extremely marginal.

 

I agree with your write up that the loss of power should be small and will probalby not have an impact unless I sit at Idle for a bit. Although I have a hard time beliving that large gains can be had for just lighting up a rotating part based on the dynos that I have seen there is a tangible gain there thus even if I only got a 5hp bump it would still be worth it IMO.

So I have been debating this and I am thinking that after I get the part installed I should go drive for 1-2hrs and give my ECU some time to adjust before the dyno. I had planned on installing myself but I dont have air to get the crank pully bolt off and there is no way in hell I am going to use a ghetto prybar and my starter to try to break the bolt, that is just asking for issues. So to the group do you think I should drive for 1-2hrs before the second set of dynos or should I drive it longer such as a 5hr drive to Tuson and back before the dyno????

 

The ECU needs only a few runs at WOT to calibrate its fuel/spark curves. Just make sure the entire driveline is warmed up and you're good to go.

 

Wow! So no one on this forum has installed one yet? I thought you guys would be the first.

 

Uh,,, it looks like I will be the first, was hoping to do it this weekend but I am stuck in Seattle till Monday so this will have to wait till next weekend

 

ugh, the wait, its cool man cant wait to see pics of them and results though.

 

I don't think anyone does this expecting a lot of HP. It's a low-cost mod for a few HP at the very most, maybe just a couple? It will be interesting to see! I thought that the gains weren't so much from the part itself, but to reduce resistance from rotating all of the various parts (alternator, steering, belts, other pulleys -- I'm sure it adds up!)

I say that it's a good excuse to go to a store or something for a few min., and drive back. I think having a "drive session" including turning the car off could be significant, but I doubt that the drive itself has to be that long.

 

from what i know about the pulleys is that they are a smaller diameter. If that is true then if I am already sucking the most i can from my altenator then wouldnt puttin the smaller pulleys on be a bad thing especially if i am still adding more amps and such that will take on even more juice?

 

A smaller alternator pulley will spin the alternator's armature faster. A bigger pulley would make it slower. Remember that you're deriving armature RPM as a result of crankshaft RPM multiplied by the pulley ratio of crank/alternator pulleys.

Alternator RPM isn't too important as long as the alternator is spinning above minimum RPM to provide 14VDC at 110A. Alternators do produce progressively higher voltages as RPM increases, but the vehicle's electrical system never sees them. Alternators have rectifiers and voltage regulators built into them, so output voltage stops at 14.4V and goes no higher because the regulator's zener clips it off. But by the same token, the regulator can't create power from nowhere, so if the alternator isn't spinning fast enough to even make 14.4V, your electrical system will see even less than that after resistive voltage drops within the alternator's rectifier/regulator. You may notice lights dimming slightly while idling with all accessories on, when brightening a bit when you rev to just 1500. When that happens, you're idling just under the regulator's max output voltage, but by spinning up the armature just a tiny bit you hit the roof and it clips.

Simply put, as long as you're spinning the alternator fast enough, you're good to go. A properly sized underdrive pulley will spin the alternator slower, but not so slow that it spends a lot of time producing less than its designed output voltage.

I'm sure it wouldn't make any difference, but just to be clear the thinking at least is that you want lighter rotating parts because they impart less drag on the engine when you're accelerating, which means more power heads down the driveline to the wheels. It comes back out when you're slowing down, but by then you no longer want it anyway.

 

hm..... really want to see the result~

 

Any news yet?

 

still no parts on my door step

 

Parts are here

 

i expect them to be installed tonight and dynoed tomorrow

 

 

Parts going on as we speak, Dynos will be posted later tonight.

 

Did you aready do a before dyno?

 

What about butt dyno???

 

I did 3 pulls before and will do 2-3 after

 

 

word

 

how much are they......and is self install possible?
if not how much does it cost to have shop to install it?

if it's noiseless power mod...i'd do it

 

unless you have an impact gun then self install is not possible. I think they are around 275 from site vendoer Excelerate. However dont quote me on that price ask him if you want a definite price.

 

sweet I cant wait. If they produce good gains they will be added to my mods for this summer since I am going for engine mods this summer. that is if they dont drop voltage to much.

 

results...hurry up man i wanna see dynos!!! and voltage graphs!!

 

downside of having this mod??.....
on the contray
275+ install is probably 400-500
might as well get hondata......so screw it

 

what the hell. if they charge you more than 75 - 100 for install you should find another place.

 

Or you could always get a mechanic like mine who does most of my work for free!

 

what shop do you go to?

 

hurry, need results....

 

like now

 

results are posted in a new thread bitczzzzzzzz!