Torque specs for rotors, calipers? Etc.

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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 11:22 PM
  #1  
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Torque specs for rotors, calipers? Etc.

Just received a set of RacingBrake front rotors and Hawk HPS pads!

I've got everything off, cleaned, and ready for the install, but I haven't been able to find the torque specs for the rotors (the screws) or the caliper bolts (those that attach the caliper to the dust cover and those that connect the two halves of the caliper). I would think that the screws are relatively unimportant as the wheel lugs are really what matter, but I definitely want to get the calipers on per specs!

Can anybody tell me what the torque settings are or point me to another thread?

Also, where (if anywhere) is it appropriate to apply anti-seize compound?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 11:50 PM
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I just noticed that the screw holes in the rotors don't align with the screw holes on the hub.

Has anybody run into this before? (I thought I saw a message on another thread but couldn't find it). Do the screws even matter? I'd hate to have to send these back.

Thanks
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 12:40 PM
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I dont think the screws matter.. I couldn't really find the torque specs..

You can reverse your torque wrench and try to figure out what they're at...

They're around the 30s, someone here must have a scan of the manual.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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So the Racing Brake rotors are not a direct bolt on for the TSX?
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 08:21 PM
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same exact problem for me. The screws don't line up for my RacingBrake rotors. I'm going to contact the place I purchased them double verify if I was sent the correct part. The size is correct it's just the screw pattern is off a little.

The wheel and lugs are really what hold the rotor in place. If it were for my daily driver I would probably be ok with putting them on. However this is my wife's daily driver and I'm not settling.

The torque specs I've seen are 80lbs for the bracket that connects to the dust cover, 24lbs for the bolts on the caliper, and 14lbs for the OEM brake lines.

Here's a good thread on changing your front pads:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25642
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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Hmm... the screws shouldn't really be that important though. On most other cars, the rotors stayed on just fine with the wheels bolted on. It physically can't come off when the lugs are on. But i do think that if the application calls for the screws... then they should line up. That's strange though...
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 11:38 PM
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80# for the dust cover bolts? Wow. I torqued them to 36# and that felt pretty tight.. I will re-torque them tonight! Thanks!

Anyway, I finally got them installed, but not without a major hassle: three of the four screws in question came out easily with the impact driver (don't even try this mod without one!), but the fourth screw wouldn't budge. The philips socket stripped after several attempts to loosen the screw. Liquid wrench didn't even help. So, I'm actually kind of glad to be rid of those screws. I had to drill the fourth screw out, and luckily it came out cleanly.

The rotors and Hawk HPS pads work really well together. I'm glad I did this mod.

It's really surprising how heavy the rotors and pads are. I don't think they're any heavier than stock, but they certainly aren't noticeably lighter. Seems to me that if somebody could develop a lightweight rotor, it would make a huge difference; I guess it would be prohibitively expensive.

Bottom-line: good bang for the buck mod, but make sure you have the right tools if you're going to do it yourself.
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Old Apr 9, 2006 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by green_henry
80# for the dust cover bolts? Wow. I torqued them to 36# and that felt pretty tight.. I will re-torque them tonight! Thanks!

Anyway, I finally got them installed, but not without a major hassle: three of the four screws in question came out easily with the impact driver (don't even try this mod without one!), but the fourth screw wouldn't budge. The philips socket stripped after several attempts to loosen the screw. Liquid wrench didn't even help. So, I'm actually kind of glad to be rid of those screws. I had to drill the fourth screw out, and luckily it came out cleanly.

The rotors and Hawk HPS pads work really well together. I'm glad I did this mod.

It's really surprising how heavy the rotors and pads are. I don't think they're any heavier than stock, but they certainly aren't noticeably lighter. Seems to me that if somebody could develop a lightweight rotor, it would make a huge difference; I guess it would be prohibitively expensive.

Bottom-line: good bang for the buck mod, but make sure you have the right tools if you're going to do it yourself.
So... did you get the screw holes to line up?
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 12:31 PM
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Guys....the screws don't matter


Sorry for the confusion about this, but those screws are only there for installation convenience. The just hold the rotor to the hub while you install the calipers. You think those tiny screws really serve a functional purpose?

The rotor is held in place by the wheel being bolted on. Once you install the assembly and tighten the wheel, the rotor is sandwiched between the wheel and hub. This is what hold it all together. Not that little screw. If you have ever worked on a VW or other Euro car, you will know that they don't offer that screw and when you pull the wheel off the rotor is totally loose.


Don't worry about it. Delete that pita screw. You will be perfectly safe. Make sure you torque the wheels properly.

Marcus
949-295-1668
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 01:02 PM
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yeah I knew those tiny screw would just shear straight off if they held any sort of load. They were there with the OEM rotors so I figured the replacements should line up too if the holes were present.

I'll go ahead and install them sometime soon. I think I'll have free time this weekend.

Can't wait for them to be fully broken in and then mash on the pedal...mmmmhh
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 01:49 PM
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also, disregard my 14lbs on the OEM lines. I've read conflicting numbers.
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by green_henry
80# for the dust cover bolts? Wow. I torqued them to 36# and that felt pretty tight.. I will re-torque them tonight! Thanks!
If you torque the caliper bolts to 80 lbs, they are likely stripped now.

The 80 ft lbs is for the caliper bracket to the spindle, silly!
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 02:41 PM
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 09:02 AM
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Thanks for posting those pages. Working on my TL, and the TL supplement I have does not have those details. Brakes are just about the same.

Found last night that on the Legend, which has very similar front brakes:

Caliper to bracket bolts = 36 ft lbs
Bracket to spindle bolts = 80 ft lbs

When I took the Calipers off, 36 seems what they were at on my 97 3.2 TL
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 12:02 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Vegito
Didn't have time to scan these yet but heres the manual
Thanks, man!
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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Scanned version

http://www.thefesteringcyforce.com/tsx/tsx-brakes.pdf
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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"Download Complete"

Thanks a lot
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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Wow that is great! Where did you buy the service manual from? I want to get it too.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 02:31 AM
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Thanks for the scan!
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