Help!!
#4
Originally Posted by ams_chris
Take the cap off, the top of the brake fluid reservoir. Then get a C-clamp and turn it till it pushes the piston down. Hope that helps...
Thats the small bolt away from the line, not the bolt on the line right?
Thanks
#6
do this, use a c-clamp and tighten it down on the piston to the back of the caliper, once there is some pressure, take a set of slip archs plyers and gently turn the piston counter clock wise/clockwise (cannot remember) and it will retract some, tighten the c-clamp again and turn again... over and over..
This is a ghetto way for not buying the honda tool.
This is a ghetto way for not buying the honda tool.
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#8
Or you could have bought the right tool for the right job and searched this site for the proper "how-to" before you started the job. Sorry for giving you a hard time here and breaking your eggs but really guys we're talking about not F'ing up your breaks. Where I live oak trees are magnetic - they attract cars with bad brakes. And they don't bend. BTW there are other after market tools that you can buy other than the OEM tool. I learned that by reading the posts. Safety First!
#9
If you haven't figured it out already, get this tool from Sears or equivalent. Temporary reinstall one old brake pad on the piston side and use the tool to push it back in. Remember to monitor the brake fluid level in the reservoir, as the level will go up when you push in the piston. Also, pay attention to the rubber seal around the piston to avoid damage.
#10
Originally Posted by Still Water
Or you could have bought the right tool for the right job and searched this site for the proper "how-to" before you started the job. Sorry for giving you a hard time here and breaking your eggs but really guys we're talking about not F'ing up your breaks. Where I live oak trees are magnetic - they attract cars with bad brakes. And they don't bend. BTW there are other after market tools that you can buy other than the OEM tool. I learned that by reading the posts. Safety First!
True. I was supposed to have some assistance but I was bailed on so I started the job anyway.
Got it done this morning. I used a C-clamp to push the piston back in. I'm really surprised actually how easy a job this is. The only hard part was removing the bolts which were mostly seized.
The two small screws holding the rotor in place were also a PITA to remove. Has anyone else stripped those screws? I managed to strip 2.
Besides that, she now brakes beautifully.
#12
P.S. - Also get yourself a good torque wrench and find the correct ft. lbs. setting for the job at hand. Also did you get some brake pad lube for the chatter, etc.???
If this is all news to you I strongly suggest you get some more experienced help and go back and check your work for potential "the nut holding the wrench" induced problems. I would try to avoid at all costs any future OH SHIIIITTTT moments.
Remember just because you don't know of any problems doesn't mean there aren't any.
If this is all news to you I strongly suggest you get some more experienced help and go back and check your work for potential "the nut holding the wrench" induced problems. I would try to avoid at all costs any future OH SHIIIITTTT moments.
Remember just because you don't know of any problems doesn't mean there aren't any.
#13
Originally Posted by dom
The two small screws holding the rotor in place were also a PITA to remove. Has anyone else stripped those screws? I managed to strip 2.
Besides that, she now brakes beautifully.
Besides that, she now brakes beautifully.
#14
Originally Posted by dom
The two small screws holding the rotor in place were also a PITA to remove. Has anyone else stripped those screws? I managed to strip 2.
So what did you finally end up with on the fronts?
Now you are part of the club who knows there is life after Acura OEM pad material.
#15
Originally Posted by Still Water
P.S. - Also get yourself a good torque wrench and find the correct ft. lbs. setting for the job at hand. Also did you get some brake pad lube for the chatter, etc.???
If this is all news to you I strongly suggest you get some more experienced help and go back and check your work for potential "the nut holding the wrench" induced problems. I would try to avoid at all costs any future OH SHIIIITTTT moments.
Remember just because you don't know of any problems doesn't mean there aren't any.
If this is all news to you I strongly suggest you get some more experienced help and go back and check your work for potential "the nut holding the wrench" induced problems. I would try to avoid at all costs any future OH SHIIIITTTT moments.
Remember just because you don't know of any problems doesn't mean there aren't any.
Brake pad lube - yes.
#16
Originally Posted by moda_way
Yeah, had you followed my instructions, you wouldn't have had that issue.
So what did you finally end up with on the fronts?
Now you are part of the club who knows there is life after Acura OEM pad material.
So what did you finally end up with on the fronts?
Now you are part of the club who knows there is life after Acura OEM pad material.
Put on EBC green Stuff pads, mainly because I couldn't find anything else. And a Esbestus (spelling?) Rotors. Not my first choice but again there not many dealers in Toronto and I had to get the job done ASAP because I thought the pads were done. (Turns out they probly had 30% left) Not bad for 48,000 miles. And because its getting cold, wanted the job done so I wouldn't have to work in the cold.
#17
Originally Posted by xizor
You really need a impact screwdriver to get those suckers out right. Works wonders at not stripping them
I'll have one for next time. I also applied some anti-seize before putting them back on. In the meantime I'll pick up some new screws.