Round one of my heatshield project is a simple heavy-cardboard version, with some styrofoam glued to one side. That's 1/2" stick-em insulation along the top edge, to seal nicely with the hood underlining. It actually works really well -- after driving around in town, I pop the hood and the engine side is hot, the filter side is cool and so are the filter and aluminum pipe. It's not actually tilted back like the picture makes it look -- it stands straight up and down in the engine bay. Of course, it still looks pretty ghetto, which is why...

... version two is in the design and planning stage. I'll keep you updated, all you shade-tree DIY'ers out there.

 

Looks good for a start that is....

 

looks okay.. I think you can do better than that. I can't wait to see your version 2.

 

Somebody beat you to it man.







Looks pretty cool though.

 

Actually, that's where I got the idea, except instead of enclosing the top, my plan is to leave the top open and let it seal to the hood liner. Makes for easier filter access, etc. That's the direction I'm heading...

 

cool man, please don't forget to take pics of the process and the exact measurements and product #'s

something i've been looking into as well since the d.i.y SRI didn't stay on that well with the s/c kit

 

Pretty cool.

 

It looks good. I hope you have an OBDII scantool so that you can measure intake air temperatures.

 

lookin good......

 

I don't, my OBDII tool is strictly for reading codes but I may give that to my bro and get one that reads intake temps -- they aren't that much more.

Even the cardboard shield appears to be eliminating a fair amount of heat soak. When I stop the car after driving stop-and-go, the plastic intake tube is warm, almost warmer than the intake manifold itself (I have a heatshield IM gasket), the engine-side of the cardboard is warm, but the filter side is cool, the aluminum intake tube is cold, and so is the filter. Even after idling in traffic.

So, it may look ghetto but it appears to work well. Verifying with a scan tool would be better, just need to spend judiciously -- that's part of the DIY philosophy!

 

Hehe, it can't be as ghetto as this:

 

^^^Actually that looks cleaner then Pete's

 

That's made from a cardboard box and 3M painter's tape! Hhaha, I was worried that it might have caught fire if I drove around with it for extended periods.

 

Sorry Pete, I have to agree with joe's assessment. Hurry up with version 2 man!

 

I'm still debating materials. Sheet metal is too thin and not heat-resistant enough. I don't want to have to horse around with adding rubber insulation. What I really want to find is 1/4" black plastic, but it's amazingly difficult to find. So I may go with sheet metal after all.

V.1 works really well, though, so at least there's that...

 

Dude

Google is your friend Cheap plexiglass sheets

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Take your pick of polymers.

 

Ask and ye shall receive! Thanks, guys. Plastic is definitely the way I'm going to go, maybe even a translucent smoked grey plexiglass -- might look cool. Or maybe just black.

 

Pete, excuse the n00b style question but what are all those cables going to the negative terminal of your battery?

 

Jan, I know you'll be surprised to hear that it's a DIY ground-wire kit.

 

should have known

 

Pretty thin ground cables though... are they 6-8 gauge? Mine are 4 gauge.

 

4 guage wasnt on sale at Home Depot the day he got em

 

They had the 8-ga. clear lamp cord on the clearance table over at Ace, how could I pass them up? That and the flat half of an old gate hinge and -- voila -- ground wire kit! Probably worth 5whp, easy...

 

Here's the AZine thread where I describe the ground-wire DIY in more detail. You will notice that I am giving Joe a hard time right off the bat in that thread, too.

 

LOL @ dyno. But they claim 10hp at the wheel!!!! HHAHAHAA... Pity those guys who bought those buddy club condensers for over $150.....

 

Hey, it actually makes speaker wire then monster cable XP wire.

 

Uh . . . what?