DC Sports header installed and dyno result!
#1
DC Sports header installed and dyno result!
I finally installed the DC header this morning. I took my sweet time during the entire install to take pictures and got it done in about 3 hrs. If I had to do it again, it should only take 1.5 hrs.
Tools needed:
floor jack
jack stands
12 mm wrench/socket
14 mm wrench/socket
ratchet with long extension
O2 sensor socket or 7/8" wrench
Tools highly recommended:
ratchet box-end wrenches
breaker bar (your best friend)
WD-40 for exhaust rubber hanger
Removing the stock manifold and A-pipe:
Everything can be removed from the bottom of the car. Note: remove the O2 sensor and connector first to avoid damage. Also pay attention not to damage the exhaust manifold gasket, as it will be reused for the header.
Tip1: Use WD-40 on the exhaust rubber hanger and the A-pipe will slide off much easier.
Tip2: When removing the bottom bolt to the heat shield cover, use double-wrench method unless you have very long wrenches. See pic below.
Tip3: The heat shield will come out the bottom by rotating it upside down and it will slide out.
The manifold is mounted by two nuts (top) and three bolts (bottom). You can access all the nuts/bolts from the top (stand on a chair) except for the bottom right corner, which can be easily accessed from the bottom. Once the manifold support bracket is removed, the manifold will drop straight out through the bottom.
Installing header and A-Pipe:
The header can also be installed through the bottom of the car.
Mount the header onto the manifold top studs and install all three bottom bolts. Stand on a chair and install the top two nuts. If you have a 14mm ratchet box-end wrench, you can tighten all the nuts/bolts from the bottom of the car. Just follow the enclosed instructions to install the A-pipe.
Driving impression:
If you guys remember my write-up on the K&N CAI installation, I said I can't notice any gain. I was not kidding and the dyno will show why. I believe the lack of gain from the intake install is due to the relatively new and tight engine (it only has 1500 miles). However, when I took the car out for a drive after the header install, I felt it! The engine revs easier and more responsive to the throttle input. I then took it to the same dyno and it proved my butt dyno was right! I believe once the engine is loosen up, a few more hp and tq is very possible.
Okay, some pics from the header installation. Enjoy!
A pipe comparison
Manifold comparison
Stock 4 into 1 collector
Double layer manifold gasket
Double-wrench method
Ratchet box-end wrench for tight spaces
Excellent ground clearance!
Header installed
Dyno result
I like how the header provides some nice gain across the entire power band especially after VTEC!
Tools needed:
floor jack
jack stands
12 mm wrench/socket
14 mm wrench/socket
ratchet with long extension
O2 sensor socket or 7/8" wrench
Tools highly recommended:
ratchet box-end wrenches
breaker bar (your best friend)
WD-40 for exhaust rubber hanger
Removing the stock manifold and A-pipe:
Everything can be removed from the bottom of the car. Note: remove the O2 sensor and connector first to avoid damage. Also pay attention not to damage the exhaust manifold gasket, as it will be reused for the header.
Tip1: Use WD-40 on the exhaust rubber hanger and the A-pipe will slide off much easier.
Tip2: When removing the bottom bolt to the heat shield cover, use double-wrench method unless you have very long wrenches. See pic below.
Tip3: The heat shield will come out the bottom by rotating it upside down and it will slide out.
The manifold is mounted by two nuts (top) and three bolts (bottom). You can access all the nuts/bolts from the top (stand on a chair) except for the bottom right corner, which can be easily accessed from the bottom. Once the manifold support bracket is removed, the manifold will drop straight out through the bottom.
Installing header and A-Pipe:
The header can also be installed through the bottom of the car.
Mount the header onto the manifold top studs and install all three bottom bolts. Stand on a chair and install the top two nuts. If you have a 14mm ratchet box-end wrench, you can tighten all the nuts/bolts from the bottom of the car. Just follow the enclosed instructions to install the A-pipe.
Driving impression:
If you guys remember my write-up on the K&N CAI installation, I said I can't notice any gain. I was not kidding and the dyno will show why. I believe the lack of gain from the intake install is due to the relatively new and tight engine (it only has 1500 miles). However, when I took the car out for a drive after the header install, I felt it! The engine revs easier and more responsive to the throttle input. I then took it to the same dyno and it proved my butt dyno was right! I believe once the engine is loosen up, a few more hp and tq is very possible.
Okay, some pics from the header installation. Enjoy!
A pipe comparison
Manifold comparison
Stock 4 into 1 collector
Double layer manifold gasket
Double-wrench method
Ratchet box-end wrench for tight spaces
Excellent ground clearance!
Header installed
Dyno result
I like how the header provides some nice gain across the entire power band especially after VTEC!
#3
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO
Age: 50
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JTso, It looked great! How does you feel power when you drive? I I am glad that you are satisfield with gain hp from DC sports header from dyno test. I am sure that your TSX will feel more power and smoother. Dyno looked good! Can you make a new picture of your engine with new DC sports header? Thanks bro
#5
The first dyno run was done with just the K&N. I know the result looks like stock. That's why I started this thread to see how engine mileage affects performance. I'll dyno it again after a few more thousand miles to see if there's any improvement.
I noticed a slight increased of engine sound perhaps due to the thinner exhaust header and lack of heat shield cover.
I noticed a slight increased of engine sound perhaps due to the thinner exhaust header and lack of heat shield cover.
Trending Topics
#10
Originally posted by cmf
What altitude do you guys sit at in WA...rough estimate if you don't know. Was the noise any louder than the intake noise itself at WOT?
What altitude do you guys sit at in WA...rough estimate if you don't know. Was the noise any louder than the intake noise itself at WOT?
#12
TSX Bronco
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Toronto
Age: 49
Posts: 549
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the awesome writeup JTso. I already have a Comptech exhaust and really don't want any more noise in the car. Do you think the header will add to the noise, or will the exhaust's noise muffle that of the header?
#16
TSX Bronco
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Toronto
Age: 49
Posts: 549
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by JTso
If you already have an aftermakert exhaust, you won't notice anything from the header at all.
If you already have an aftermakert exhaust, you won't notice anything from the header at all.
*Sigh*. Another mod to add to my to do list.
#19
Jersey ---> Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Maryland
Age: 46
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by accsuperstar
there will NEVER be a break from modding.
NEVER
there will NEVER be a break from modding.
NEVER
when i first got the tsx, i said to myself no more modding. before the car even arrived, i already had the springs and body kit sitting in my living room
#20
I spend 2 much time here
so what are the downsides of ceramic coating? that it might crack or something? is that a real concern with the DC header or are they high quality.
#22
Originally posted by JiggaMan
so what are the downsides of ceramic coating? that it might crack or something? is that a real concern with the DC header or are they high quality.
so what are the downsides of ceramic coating? that it might crack or something? is that a real concern with the DC header or are they high quality.
#23
Originally posted by JTso
However, this particular header has very high ground clearance. You probably never have to worry about damaging the header.
However, this particular header has very high ground clearance. You probably never have to worry about damaging the header.
would you still call it safe if after 1" drop?
i believe DC header is the only header available at this point, am i right!?
thanks
#25
Dani, my car is not lowered yet, still waiting on strut/shocks. There shouldn't be any clearance problem even it's lowered 2". The oil pan and cat converter will get damaged first before the header. Just look at the clearance pic again and you'll see what I mean.
Here's another clearance pic.
Here's another clearance pic.
#26
Port & Polish Everything
where did you set the jack stands at? Also, did you reuse the original gasket?
I have a 2003 accord and the setup is mostly the same, even the exhaust manifold looks the same. The main problem with stock setup seems to be the restrictive looking 4 to 1 collector. Why honda did that, I have no clue.
I have a 2003 accord and the setup is mostly the same, even the exhaust manifold looks the same. The main problem with stock setup seems to be the restrictive looking 4 to 1 collector. Why honda did that, I have no clue.
#29
Originally posted by 21_in_az
JTSO.......nice work man! and thanks for taking one for the team on the dyno!
looks great man!
any plans for an exhaust?
JTSO.......nice work man! and thanks for taking one for the team on the dyno!
looks great man!
any plans for an exhaust?
#31
Do I Make You Horny?
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: phoenix, arizona
Age: 42
Posts: 2,124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by cmf
For the slow guy....what is a TB coolant bypass mod?
For the slow guy....what is a TB coolant bypass mod?
also, is the heat gasket out yet?
#32
The TB mod is to bypassing the hot coolant lines running through the bottom of the throttle body. By design, the coolant lines are there to prevent the throttle plate from freezing under cold temperature. Because of this, the throttle body receives the same coolant temp running through the engine, which also heats up the intake temp. Therefore, this mod is usually done along with the Hondata heat gasket to further reduces intake temp.
Pros: The TB mod is cheap and easy to install. It costs approx. $1.50 for a fitting and 20 mins of labor after removing the intake tube.
It's very effective. The throttle body is no longer hot after driving even in hot weather. It will be warm due to under hood heat but no longer heated by hot coolant.
It's easily reversible back to stock.
Cons: It's not recommended if you live in very cold/freezing area, as the throttle plate may become sticky.
Pros: The TB mod is cheap and easy to install. It costs approx. $1.50 for a fitting and 20 mins of labor after removing the intake tube.
It's very effective. The throttle body is no longer hot after driving even in hot weather. It will be warm due to under hood heat but no longer heated by hot coolant.
It's easily reversible back to stock.
Cons: It's not recommended if you live in very cold/freezing area, as the throttle plate may become sticky.
#34
Bye TSX, hello domestic?
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: NOVA
Age: 42
Posts: 8,552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Throttle Body sounds interesting and easy after putting a CAI on already. Where'd you get info for this? I'd bite in a sec. if its that cheap, who cares if it freezes here
#37
hey JTso
just wanna make 100% sure here, so the only thing you do is to replace the stock header with DC's, nothing else right?
it should turn out just fine by leaving everything else unchaged, true!?
thanks!
just wanna make 100% sure here, so the only thing you do is to replace the stock header with DC's, nothing else right?
it should turn out just fine by leaving everything else unchaged, true!?
thanks!
#39
Originally posted by JTso
Dani, I'm not sure I understand your question. What do you mean by leaving everything else unchanged?
Dani, I'm not sure I understand your question. What do you mean by leaving everything else unchanged?
everything should just work out fine by simply taking off the stock header and putting on the DC's right!?
there's no need to enhance other parts of the engine (or whatever else) due to the new header, correct!?
hope u got my question, ...just wanna be 100% clear here (havent done or heard anything about a header mod...so...hehe)