DBW with K-Pro Update!
Originally Posted by Highrev1
TSX536 comment please I see YOU :p Your OG here 


Yeah, I've read that the problem was the engine would flood upon cranking whenever Hondata tried to run hi flow injectors. With 5 psi of boost the stock injectors (w/ the increased fuel pressure) start to hit max duty at around 7100 rpms or so. If we want to run higher boost there is the danger of going lean unless someone finds a solution that allows us to run higher flow injectors.
Um, did anyone take a close look at that Dazz motorsports TSX? They're running a full turbo kit on that car using this engine management system, which claims it works with DBW, so why wouldnt this work with the tsx?
http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=1965
http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=1965
Originally Posted by crazybaboon6000
Um, did anyone take a close look at that Dazz motorsports TSX? They're running a full turbo kit on that car using this engine management system, which claims it works with DBW, so why wouldnt this work with the tsx?
http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=1965
http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=1965
heh, look at post # 37. I mentioned this
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crazybaboon6000 and rza49311, the hks system works to an extent. yes it works with DBW however on the tsx you lose, ac, factory gauges, and traction control. so no only is the solution expensive but your basically building a race car then.
Originally Posted by h1coupe
the chart there shows that the tsx head has signifficantly better flow up to 5500rpm then it runs out of breath, but I don´t think that matters too much cause you don´t rev the tsx motor that much(8000rpm beeing about the max), so when deciding on this you have to be very specific on what the motor is going to be used for and in what car it´s gonna be.
Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
Thats why i was gonna go with the K20a2 head.. im trying to run past or up to 8k rpms... i just got the head just in case.. i might not use it but i might not run into another one on the east coast again, so i had to jump on it now. Nobody wanted to ship it from the west coast so.. I might port the TSX head instead and i should see nice gains from this
Make sure you have someone to tune it for your professionally, have fun and tune safe. Remember to post back result, DYNO is a MUST.
Originally Posted by chuson
So what are you going to do w/ the K20a@ head? Will you get the harness or will you get run RSX ECU/K-PRO + TSX ECU???
Make sure you have someone to tune it for your professionally, have fun and tune safe. Remember to post back result, DYNO is a MUST.
Make sure you have someone to tune it for your professionally, have fun and tune safe. Remember to post back result, DYNO is a MUST.
You want an RSX ECU that has K-Pro on it. Make sure that you can get the harness before you start buying parts though. Good luck man 
Have you tried contacting the Hydra Nemesis guys again?
http://www.carmodifications.com/
Have you tried contacting the Hydra Nemesis guys again?
http://www.carmodifications.com/
Originally Posted by Tsx536
You want an RSX ECU that has K-Pro on it. Make sure that you can get the harness before you start buying parts though. Good luck man 
Also look into AEM's Fuel / Ignition Controller (F/IC):
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116
This looks like it might be able to handle our injector problem:
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116
This looks like it might be able to handle our injector problem:
PRECISE FUEL DELIVERY
The F/IC intercepts the signal to the stock injectors, allowing the user to modify pulse-width by +/-100%. The F/IC is the only piggy-back system that can decrease injector pulse-width, allowing the user to drive larger aftermarket injectors* while still maintaining proper air / fuel ratios. This powerful system can also tap into the factory injector signal and work independently to drive up to six (6) additional injectors.
The F/IC intercepts the signal to the stock injectors, allowing the user to modify pulse-width by +/-100%. The F/IC is the only piggy-back system that can decrease injector pulse-width, allowing the user to drive larger aftermarket injectors* while still maintaining proper air / fuel ratios. This powerful system can also tap into the factory injector signal and work independently to drive up to six (6) additional injectors.
Originally Posted by Highrev1
A bett solution would be to use the AEM Fi/C setup to tune the car, From what I remeber the issue with the hondata re-flash was the 5psi limit due to the lack of injector pulse width control.?.? That item appears to be a good solution for the TSX.
As for the cams the tsx intake with an 02 rsx exhaust cam would be anice setup for F/I..
Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
I emailed Hytech and they said they make one...
Originally Posted by chuson
Make sure you get the RIGHT RSX ECU, which is 2002-2004. I remembered that the 2005-2006 RSX ECU can't use K-Pro, so beware.
Oh obviously K-pro is the way to go. But who doesn't want a functioning dash. I know the fiance wouldn't bee too happy with it. And the FI/C controls quite a bit of functions on the car. Maybee a combination of the FI/C and a re-flash would be the ultimate solution found yet??
Originally Posted by Highrev1
Oh obviously K-pro is the way to go. But who doesn't want a functioning dash. I know the fiance wouldn't bee too happy with it. And the FI/C controls quite a bit of functions on the car. Maybee a combination of the FI/C and a re-flash would be the ultimate solution found yet??
Originally Posted by Tsx536
Also look into AEM's Fuel / Ignition Controller (F/IC):
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116
This looks like it might be able to handle our injector problem:
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116
This looks like it might be able to handle our injector problem:
I would look into methanol injection as well. Tons of people run it with some form of FI at higher levels of boost. Most use a 50/50 mix of water and methanol. Methanol has an octane rating of 116, which enables a lot of timing advance (or in your case since you can't control timing, just tons of detonation resistance). It is also an oxygenated fuel, so it needs less air in the charge to burn completely (stoich for methanol is about 6.5:1). This means that you can add even more fuel when you're squirting it, and still make power. Methanol vaporizes in the intake tract, so like nitrous it cools the charge due to the phase change. Most of the time, water is added to the mix because it has a higher specific heat capacity and can absorb more heat in the cylinder, thus preventing detonation a bit better. But in your case that wouldn't be a problem, and you could run straight meth just for the sake of extra fuel.
It might be too high maintenance for you though. You couldn't ever let the meth tank run dry or else you'd be running into danger. It is another option though. Here is the system I'm looking into:
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/wat...ection-12.html
Originally Posted by Tsx536
Also look into AEM's Fuel / Ignition Controller (F/IC):
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116
This looks like it might be able to handle our injector problem:
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116
This looks like it might be able to handle our injector problem:
I'd love to use this in conjunction with a high-boost pulley to eek out closer to 8-9psi of boost. However, I wonder how necessary it'd be to utilize an intercooler/aftercooler at those levels...
Originally Posted by Highrev1
8 psi peaks at 192 deg F. 12 psi peas at 233 deg F. For the M62's, There is no cooler for them yet. You would be better off using Nitrous as the cooling agent.
(Oh, and nice avatar pic...Twin-Screw, ehh?)
"The cooling from the nitrous allows you to gain more HP than just what is provided by the juice alone (I gained almost 100hp from a 50 shot), the actual amount gained is a function of your boost level and the shot size, there is not a simple calculator so expect your results to vary" A dry shot in the intake tube such as this is ideal for cooling the IAT from a charger.
Problem is you need K-pro to run in properly
I will be fully testing the AEM FI/C shortly, But its features look promising to control our TSX ECU FUel, TIming, and Vtec control, Only downfall I see is no VTC control. Not ideal but could be fixed I would think.
"Since the F/IC works in conjunction with the factory ECU, late model-vehicles equipped with a CAN-BUS system retain functionality of climate controls, dash and other components on the network."
TSX536 I saw you asked about it for an AUTO
I would highly doubt it.
Problem is you need K-pro to run in properly

I will be fully testing the AEM FI/C shortly, But its features look promising to control our TSX ECU FUel, TIming, and Vtec control, Only downfall I see is no VTC control. Not ideal but could be fixed I would think.
"Since the F/IC works in conjunction with the factory ECU, late model-vehicles equipped with a CAN-BUS system retain functionality of climate controls, dash and other components on the network."
TSX536 I saw you asked about it for an AUTO
I would highly doubt it.
Originally Posted by Highrev1
8 psi peaks at 192 deg F. 12 psi peas at 233 deg F. For the M62's, There is no cooler for them yet. You would be better off using Nitrous as the cooling agent.
Personally I would rather run methanol/water injection for charge cooling rather than nitrous above 1 bar on the stock internals. Or just water alone. Cheaper, easier, and doesn't lead to possibly dangerous cylinder pressures from all the extra fuel you'd have to add to keep it from leaning out.
Well the Newer TVS chargers from Eaton will be out shortly from what I understand and that is a hybrid style Roots charger. I think it partially compresses in the Charger housing and in the manifold.
Nitrous as a cooling agent is a finiky thing, ideally a cooler, be it water-air or air-air for a supercharger would be an ideal way to cool the IAT.
Nitrous as a cooling agent is a finiky thing, ideally a cooler, be it water-air or air-air for a supercharger would be an ideal way to cool the IAT.
UMM shouldn't go more than 45 on the TSX...the 50 from the RSX can be dangerous.
"Allowing the full 50 degrees movement leads to a greater risk of valve to piston contact should you accidentally mis-shift and over-rev."
"Allowing the full 50 degrees movement leads to a greater risk of valve to piston contact should you accidentally mis-shift and over-rev."
Originally Posted by Highrev1
UMM shouldn't go more than 45 on the TSX...the 50 from the RSX can be dangerous.
"Allowing the full 50 degrees movement leads to a greater risk of valve to piston contact should you accidentally mis-shift and over-rev."
"Allowing the full 50 degrees movement leads to a greater risk of valve to piston contact should you accidentally mis-shift and over-rev."
K-pro allows for adjustablility, although a mechanical stop is better than a electronic one. It really depends on your tuner
Who do you plan to tune your setup? That makes a big difference, wether if be a conservative tune or an aggressive tune.
Yes it is more adjustable but with the long stroke the 2.4 I can't imagine that it is necessary.
Who do you plan to tune your setup? That makes a big difference, wether if be a conservative tune or an aggressive tune.
Yes it is more adjustable but with the long stroke the 2.4 I can't imagine that it is necessary.
Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
I know that.. but its adjustable, am i correct? So i would be able to adjust it 45 degrees with kpro.
PRB ECU
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=511718
PRC ECU
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=513440
PRB ECU W/ K-Pro Ready
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=512258
K-Pro
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=505874
Originally Posted by Highrev1
K-pro allows for adjustablility, although a mechanical stop is better than a electronic one. It really depends on your tuner
Who do you plan to tune your setup? That makes a big difference, wether if be a conservative tune or an aggressive tune.
Yes it is more adjustable but with the long stroke the 2.4 I can't imagine that it is necessary.
Who do you plan to tune your setup? That makes a big difference, wether if be a conservative tune or an aggressive tune.
Yes it is more adjustable but with the long stroke the 2.4 I can't imagine that it is necessary.
Originally Posted by PrecyseStylez
From what hondata and others say... more than 25 degrees is needed for a fully built race motor. but no more than 45 is needed nor recommended. So as long as im able to adjust it past 25 degrees and decrease it from 50 degrees, im good! i'd rather just buy a RSX-S VTC rather than find someone to manually adjust the TSX VTC... and plus i picked it up for 50 bucks.. 
Originally Posted by feuss2
Any updates on this project?
Originally Posted by hyunk24a2
bump
i want to know how this is going
i want to know how this is going

