to any1 using hawk ceramics
to any1 using hawk ceramics
hi
just swapped the rotors to Ate slotted and put in Hawk Ceramics.
I don't have any bite whatsover, stopping power is not that great
I have a feeling I didn't bed the pads correctly and need your help
I called tire rack and they told me to sand the pads and rotors using 220 grit and re-bed the pads. They said to drive through the neighborhood and
use the stop signs for each stop.
Then I called Hawk, they told me to sand with 80 grit and re-bed them
however the stops should be consecutive, one right after the other.
not sure what the correct procedure is as everyone has their own view. even my mechanic said something different.
anyone using these have good stopping power? they can feel them bite?
please help me fix these things.
just swapped the rotors to Ate slotted and put in Hawk Ceramics.
I don't have any bite whatsover, stopping power is not that great
I have a feeling I didn't bed the pads correctly and need your help
I called tire rack and they told me to sand the pads and rotors using 220 grit and re-bed the pads. They said to drive through the neighborhood and
use the stop signs for each stop.
Then I called Hawk, they told me to sand with 80 grit and re-bed them
however the stops should be consecutive, one right after the other.
not sure what the correct procedure is as everyone has their own view. even my mechanic said something different.
anyone using these have good stopping power? they can feel them bite?
please help me fix these things.
Last edited by kostantinos; Nov 25, 2008 at 10:24 AM.
Forget the sanding. Just go out and hear those suckers up. Get them smoking. My procedure has never let me down.
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
Originally Posted by Mrheeltoe
First it is important to know what pads you have, and what they are capable of. Heeltoe Automotive recommends Hawk Racing pads. Find out more about the differences in pads under product descriptions on Heeltoeauto.com! Brake Pad Selection Page
Alert:
Bed in is not a one-time thing. If you overheat the brakes or use them irregularly they can "un-bed" as it were and the friction surface is not ideal. It can manifest itself with noise, glazing, shaking....you need to go out and re-bed the brakes. Sometimes you need more aggressive pads to get it done!
The following bed-in procedure is drawn from our personal experience in breaking in pads, and from technical information gathered from the Racingbrake Website.
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though those performance street pads have been burnished at the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.
STREET PADS, example Hawk HPS, Ceramic, and HP+
Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed. Your performance street pads are now ready for driving! I generally recommend to drive the car normally from here on out. I do not recommend using the brakes as a way to slow the car down, but rather use them as a way to CHANGE SPEEDS to a lower one. Keeping this thought in mind while braking will prevent you from making long gradual stops that raise brake temperatures above the desired level for street pads. When street pads get too hot, they can glaze the rotor surface or put inconsistent pads deposits on the rotor which will cause a shimmy.
Also, be aware that Racingbrake rotors have a special metallurgy that may require up to 500 street miles before break-in is achieved. You will need to get these rotors HOT! If there are not plumes of smoke billowing from new Racingbrakes you probably did not get them hot enough.
Lastly, do your best not to engage the ABS system within at least 300-500 miles of bed-in. If a shimmy should develop, one should reapply the bed-in procedure listed above.
RACE PADS, example Hawk Blue or other Motorsports Pad
Prospective racers are cautioned that unless these racing pads are properly bedded-in at race track conditions it can result in pre-mature failure or ill effect.
Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed. Your motorsports pads are now ready for race!
Base text sourced from Racingbrake Street Pad Beak-in and Racingbrake Motorsports Pad Break-in. Edited by 01TL4TL
Alert:
Bed in is not a one-time thing. If you overheat the brakes or use them irregularly they can "un-bed" as it were and the friction surface is not ideal. It can manifest itself with noise, glazing, shaking....you need to go out and re-bed the brakes. Sometimes you need more aggressive pads to get it done!
The following bed-in procedure is drawn from our personal experience in breaking in pads, and from technical information gathered from the Racingbrake Website.
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though those performance street pads have been burnished at the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.
STREET PADS, example Hawk HPS, Ceramic, and HP+
- After installing new brake pads, confirm pedal pressure before driving car. On an open road with no traffic, make 6-10 heavy slow-downs, NOT complete stops, from 30-10 mph then fast
accelleration and repeat with increasing pedal effort/brake effort each time until just shy of ABS activation. The idea is to heat and maintain that heat in the pads and rotors during the
procedure. - On an open road with no traffic, make an additional 2 to 3 hard slows from approximately 45 mph to 5 mph applying firm pressure.Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop. Engagement of ABS or threshold braking is not required.
- Now, gradually building heat into the brakes, I like to run up to baout 80 and bring the car down to about 40 mph. Do this 2-3 times. You may experience some fading.
- Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down by cruising at normal speeds.
Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed. Your performance street pads are now ready for driving! I generally recommend to drive the car normally from here on out. I do not recommend using the brakes as a way to slow the car down, but rather use them as a way to CHANGE SPEEDS to a lower one. Keeping this thought in mind while braking will prevent you from making long gradual stops that raise brake temperatures above the desired level for street pads. When street pads get too hot, they can glaze the rotor surface or put inconsistent pads deposits on the rotor which will cause a shimmy.
Also, be aware that Racingbrake rotors have a special metallurgy that may require up to 500 street miles before break-in is achieved. You will need to get these rotors HOT! If there are not plumes of smoke billowing from new Racingbrakes you probably did not get them hot enough.
Lastly, do your best not to engage the ABS system within at least 300-500 miles of bed-in. If a shimmy should develop, one should reapply the bed-in procedure listed above.
RACE PADS, example Hawk Blue or other Motorsports Pad
Prospective racers are cautioned that unless these racing pads are properly bedded-in at race track conditions it can result in pre-mature failure or ill effect.
- Seal all brake ducts if any.
- Slowly engage brakes 6 to 8 times at medium speeds (60 - 80 mph). Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop.
- Increase speeds to simulate race conditions; allow 6 to 8 high pressure (about 500 psi) snubs at racing speed. Total engagements for Step 2 should be a maximum of 15 to 20.
- Remove brake duct seals. Allow the system to cool for about 15 minutes. Do not engage brakes while car is parked during cool down period.
Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed. Your motorsports pads are now ready for race!
Base text sourced from Racingbrake Street Pad Beak-in and Racingbrake Motorsports Pad Break-in. Edited by 01TL4TL
should i check to see if the pads are glazed before i go do it again?
and what is meant by do not drag? like don't let the car roll slowly through?
like they should be quick stops?
and what is meant by do not drag? like don't let the car roll slowly through?
like they should be quick stops?
Dragging....riding the brakes for a long period of time. Quicker stops and don't sit on the brakes when you come to a stop.
Marcus
Driver/Detailer
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,474
Likes: 2
From: Sydney
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i had the fluid flushed and bled by acura before i did the rotor/pad change
i did 5 hard stops on the highway this morning from 60 to 30
and they feel a little better
should i do it again? or should i check the pads for glazing before i do that
and sanding the pads is common practice, the hawk rep told me
i did 5 hard stops on the highway this morning from 60 to 30
and they feel a little better
should i do it again? or should i check the pads for glazing before i do that
and sanding the pads is common practice, the hawk rep told me
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
From: NY
Forget the sanding. Just go out and hear those suckers up. Get them smoking. My procedure has never let me down.
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
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