What type of synthetic?
#1
Audi Driving Snob
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What type of synthetic?
What type of synthetic do you all like best? mobile 1, amsoil, castrol, royal purple? Any specific reason? Anyone uses a 5-20 yet? Any problems?
I'm planning on going to 5-30 mobil 1 synthetic but figured i might as well ask the forum what they think
I'm planning on going to 5-30 mobil 1 synthetic but figured i might as well ask the forum what they think
#4
Re: What type of synthetic?
Originally posted by TinkySD
Anyone uses a 5-20 yet? Any problems?
Anyone uses a 5-20 yet? Any problems?
#5
The Creator
what kinda admin are you??? did you not see the other oil thread going on right now??? dumbass
I use Mobil SuperSyn. In reality... their all very comparable. Hard to say whats best... so many conflicting opinions.
AmSoil seems to be the only one putting up valid arguments AGAINST Mobil 1... except they only apply to the old Mobil 1. The new stuff is a totally diff formula
I use Mobil SuperSyn. In reality... their all very comparable. Hard to say whats best... so many conflicting opinions.
AmSoil seems to be the only one putting up valid arguments AGAINST Mobil 1... except they only apply to the old Mobil 1. The new stuff is a totally diff formula
#7
I've used 10w30 Mobil 1 in the past. I've heard of people recommending 0w40 to me but I really have no idea what the difference will be. anybody want to give me a quick primer on what those numbers mean on the oil?
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#8
Originally posted by TinkySD
i just like clutter! So we have 1 5w-20 user...any others? You should see slightly higher mpg and maybe a few more horses with 5w-20...
i just like clutter! So we have 1 5w-20 user...any others? You should see slightly higher mpg and maybe a few more horses with 5w-20...
#9
Photography Nerd
Originally posted by Nachoman
I've used 10w30 Mobil 1 in the past. I've heard of people recommending 0w40 to me but I really have no idea what the difference will be. anybody want to give me a quick primer on what those numbers mean on the oil?
I've used 10w30 Mobil 1 in the past. I've heard of people recommending 0w40 to me but I really have no idea what the difference will be. anybody want to give me a quick primer on what those numbers mean on the oil?
#10
Photography Nerd
Originally posted by sheik28
So I am not going nuts? I thought it was just my imagination, so I was a little hesitant to post. What, if any are the downsides?
So I am not going nuts? I thought it was just my imagination, so I was a little hesitant to post. What, if any are the downsides?
#11
Re: Re: What type of synthetic?
Originally posted by sheik28
Just got my 5000mile OC and my dealer was jammed...told me come back in 2 days. Honda dealerships don't work on Acura either so that opion was out. Had to go to a Jiffy Lube type place and they put in a 5w20...no problems yet after about 500 miles. It actually seems to run/sound a little smoother.
Just got my 5000mile OC and my dealer was jammed...told me come back in 2 days. Honda dealerships don't work on Acura either so that opion was out. Had to go to a Jiffy Lube type place and they put in a 5w20...no problems yet after about 500 miles. It actually seems to run/sound a little smoother.
I take my Acura to Honda dealers all the time... what gives?
#13
Re: Re: Re: What type of synthetic?
Originally posted by DEVO
I take my Acura to Honda dealers all the time... what gives?
I take my Acura to Honda dealers all the time... what gives?
#14
Mobil-1, always!
My wife's Oddy was purchased while Honda was going through their "phase" with 5W20. The owner's manual recommended 5W20 but said 5W30 could be used if 5W20 was unavailable. The oil cap actually says 5W30. The only reason that I could ever believe that Honda recommended the 5W20 was for CAFE fuel economy purposes.
BTW, the Honda and Acura filters are the same, the crush washer is the same and the oil is the same. And this is about as low-tech as you can get, it's just a drain plug and gravity. Even I can do an oil change, and I'm probably far less likely to screw anything up than the kid they assign to oil changes at a dealership.
Amazing that a Honda dealer didn't want to take your money!
Since I don't want to be bothered getting rid of the old oil, I use a nearby garage, bring my own filter, washer, Mobil 1 and wait. It took 15 minutes total last time. As I've said before it's a Honda and if an ASE certified technician can't work on a HONDA he should tear up his certificate and go to work at Starbucks.
My wife's Oddy was purchased while Honda was going through their "phase" with 5W20. The owner's manual recommended 5W20 but said 5W30 could be used if 5W20 was unavailable. The oil cap actually says 5W30. The only reason that I could ever believe that Honda recommended the 5W20 was for CAFE fuel economy purposes.
BTW, the Honda and Acura filters are the same, the crush washer is the same and the oil is the same. And this is about as low-tech as you can get, it's just a drain plug and gravity. Even I can do an oil change, and I'm probably far less likely to screw anything up than the kid they assign to oil changes at a dealership.
Amazing that a Honda dealer didn't want to take your money!
Since I don't want to be bothered getting rid of the old oil, I use a nearby garage, bring my own filter, washer, Mobil 1 and wait. It took 15 minutes total last time. As I've said before it's a Honda and if an ASE certified technician can't work on a HONDA he should tear up his certificate and go to work at Starbucks.
#15
Suzuka Master
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I take my old oil to Walmart... they recycle and dumb my 5 gallon drum in their holding tank.
As for oil, I only use Mobil 1 5W-30. Economical, highly available at any Walmart, and a really great oil ta-boot.
As for oil, I only use Mobil 1 5W-30. Economical, highly available at any Walmart, and a really great oil ta-boot.
#16
I think Mobil 0W-40 is a great choice as long as it meets the required specifications in your owner's manual. (As far as I know, though, it meets or exceeds every specification that 5W-30 does and has better high and low temperature performance).
#18
Originally posted by inkytawney
0w40 is for european spec cars. I see no reason to run it in a HOnda/Acura. Why not ow30 which has outstanding fuel economy.
0w40 is for european spec cars. I see no reason to run it in a HOnda/Acura. Why not ow30 which has outstanding fuel economy.
Also, all oils break down somewhat over time and an oil spec'd at 30W won't be a 30W oil any more when you change it after 5000+ miles.
My fuel economy actually is up 5-10% since I switched (averaged 25-26 mpg last summer, averaging 28+ mpg this summer), but I really don't know if this is coincidence or not.
#19
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I think a 0-30 would be a better fit for honda/acura cars..with the thicker normal temp viscosity(40 as opposed to 30) you should see slightly lower mpg and in a high reving motor a few less horses.
#24
mine dealer put 5w20, they said they will do the same in summer and for type s car, mm, that make me wonder... but i will start using Castrol Syntec 0w30 later...... the oil forum test it to be better......
#25
Originally posted by gogozy
[B]mine dealer put 5w20, they said they will do the same in summer and for type s car[B]
[B]mine dealer put 5w20, they said they will do the same in summer and for type s car[B]
(It's not an Acura-only thing either. I've had oil changes by Acura, Honda, and VW dealers in which they put something in the car other than precisely what is indicated in the manual )
EDIT: It gets even better. This dealer doesn't even CARRY the recommended oil:
http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show...&threadid=3575
#26
Tl'r here
Hey, the TL manual and oil fill cap say 5W-20, no other oil is stated.
I can not believe it is 5W-20, I was going to run 5W-30 Mobil 1, but they don't make it, 0W-20, wow that is thin, they do make. Any other synthetics have 5W-20?
I thought I saw on the TSX the same thing on the oil fill cap (5W-20)?
Also, I heard that you should not switch to synthetics until the car is well broken in (approx 10K miles or it does not break in properly), any ideas on this?
I can not believe it is 5W-20, I was going to run 5W-30 Mobil 1, but they don't make it, 0W-20, wow that is thin, they do make. Any other synthetics have 5W-20?
I thought I saw on the TSX the same thing on the oil fill cap (5W-20)?
Also, I heard that you should not switch to synthetics until the car is well broken in (approx 10K miles or it does not break in properly), any ideas on this?
#27
Re: Tl'r here
Originally posted by need4spd
Also, I heard that you should not switch to synthetics until the car is well broken in (approx 10K miles or it does not break in properly), any ideas on this?
Also, I heard that you should not switch to synthetics until the car is well broken in (approx 10K miles or it does not break in properly), any ideas on this?
I've seen some recent advertisements by Mobil-1 that they are the "factory fill" oil for some makes. So much for the "synthetics prevent break in theory"...
Here ya go...
http://www.mobil1.com/why/myths.jsp
#28
mm, i doubet what the link says.... i don't know about vets, or others, but i do know, my father owns a 02 porsche and his menu did state "break-in period" (even "warm up" before driving), the instruction is exactly what we generally follow here. so i don't agree what Mobil say totally.
i think the major reason for engine break in is to set the ring properly, the slippery syn oil will slow down this process, ring need to fit/match cyclinder wall so some wear is needed to establish this. hence extend the period for setting ring since Syn oil prevent wear. no harm done to engine, it will just get take longer to show it's potential..... before this TSX, i had an 95 accord, first oild change at 3000km, i started using synt oil at 8000km, the engine felt tight for another 30,000km... man that was an mistake, back then i did not know the differences of "tight" and"lose" but i now knows!
so that is what i believe and follow.... just my 2 cent!!
i think the major reason for engine break in is to set the ring properly, the slippery syn oil will slow down this process, ring need to fit/match cyclinder wall so some wear is needed to establish this. hence extend the period for setting ring since Syn oil prevent wear. no harm done to engine, it will just get take longer to show it's potential..... before this TSX, i had an 95 accord, first oild change at 3000km, i started using synt oil at 8000km, the engine felt tight for another 30,000km... man that was an mistake, back then i did not know the differences of "tight" and"lose" but i now knows!
so that is what i believe and follow.... just my 2 cent!!
#29
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i'm at 8k miles...i'll be switching to mobil 1 at my next change which should be enough There was a very noticeable increase in power from when i bought it through the first 3 thousand miles
#30
Drifting
Originally posted by Dan Martin
The only true downside is the possibility of premature engine wear. However this is totally dependant on how you run your engine and the type of climate you run in. This is simplifying it but if you let the engine rev a lot (which is the only way to do things!) you should probably run a thicker oil. Most of the Honda's/Acura's that I've seen at Mosport are running 20w50 oil. I'm going to run a 10w40 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter.
The only true downside is the possibility of premature engine wear. However this is totally dependant on how you run your engine and the type of climate you run in. This is simplifying it but if you let the engine rev a lot (which is the only way to do things!) you should probably run a thicker oil. Most of the Honda's/Acura's that I've seen at Mosport are running 20w50 oil. I'm going to run a 10w40 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter.
#31
Photography Nerd
Originally posted by Alin10123
That's not going to be a problem for amsoil. Amsoil potected better in the 4 ball wear test under heat and friction. They even used a 0w-30 to test against the other 4 popular synthetics. Amsoil came on top by far. So... with amsoil 0w-30 you not only get better protection but also more fluidity at cold temps.
That's not going to be a problem for amsoil. Amsoil potected better in the 4 ball wear test under heat and friction. They even used a 0w-30 to test against the other 4 popular synthetics. Amsoil came on top by far. So... with amsoil 0w-30 you not only get better protection but also more fluidity at cold temps.
#32
Dan... try this:
amsoil vs mobil 1
I've done a lot of research and this test is still valid. There are updates at alt.amsoil (forums). So Mobil is still playing catch up... big time.
Amsoil is probably the best you can buy but at a price. Then again it last a lot longer. But I tend to change regardless of how long they claim it last so I would end up paying a lot. If you want the best oil go for Amsoil but if you are like me and change the oil regularly then go with Mobil 1 (syn). If you are anal and want the best, can afford the best, and change the oil all the time... Amsoil is for you.
amsoil vs mobil 1
I've done a lot of research and this test is still valid. There are updates at alt.amsoil (forums). So Mobil is still playing catch up... big time.
Amsoil is probably the best you can buy but at a price. Then again it last a lot longer. But I tend to change regardless of how long they claim it last so I would end up paying a lot. If you want the best oil go for Amsoil but if you are like me and change the oil regularly then go with Mobil 1 (syn). If you are anal and want the best, can afford the best, and change the oil all the time... Amsoil is for you.
#33
I use the Mobil 1 you can get cheap at Sam's, and then I *have* to use special Castrol/BMW 10W60 (only available at BMW dealers - $10-12/liter) in my BMW.
Quite a few European cars come with synthetic from the factory.
C.
Quite a few European cars come with synthetic from the factory.
C.
#34
Photography Nerd
Originally posted by DEVO
Dan... try this:
amsoil vs mobil 1
I've done a lot of research and this test is still valid. There are updates at alt.amsoil (forums). So Mobil is still playing catch up... big time.
Amsoil is probably the best you can buy but at a price. Then again it last a lot longer. But I tend to change regardless of how long they claim it last so I would end up paying a lot. If you want the best oil go for Amsoil but if you are like me and change the oil regularly then go with Mobil 1 (syn). If you are anal and want the best, can afford the best, and change the oil all the time... Amsoil is for you.
Dan... try this:
amsoil vs mobil 1
I've done a lot of research and this test is still valid. There are updates at alt.amsoil (forums). So Mobil is still playing catch up... big time.
Amsoil is probably the best you can buy but at a price. Then again it last a lot longer. But I tend to change regardless of how long they claim it last so I would end up paying a lot. If you want the best oil go for Amsoil but if you are like me and change the oil regularly then go with Mobil 1 (syn). If you are anal and want the best, can afford the best, and change the oil all the time... Amsoil is for you.
Every website I go to lists different "industry standard" tests that shows their product leading the pack. I'm not saying they're wrong, I just don't know who to believe. I'm sure they're all probably within 5% of eachother anyways so it's probably a moot point.
I found the SAE standards for engine oil but it looks like you have to pay for them. I wonder if anyone out there has them? Here's the link: http://www.sae.org/technicalcommittees/gflt1.htm
#37
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amsoil 0-30wt
I am going to use amsoil 0-30 wt, i hear nothing but good about this motor oil... I am going to do a change to amsoil at 1500 miles.
I am going to use the amsoil filter too.
The part number is SDF- 13, but the filter looks like it belongs to a mini bike, are the filters really that small??
I am going to use the amsoil filter too.
The part number is SDF- 13, but the filter looks like it belongs to a mini bike, are the filters really that small??
#38
Baka Unco
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Originally posted by DEVO
you can't find amsoil in stores... it's strickly online business.
you can't find amsoil in stores... it's strickly online business.