DEVO

If you get some on your paint just dilute with water until you can get home and wash it off. Where do you get the water, most gas stations have a windshild wiper cleaner thingy, just use that to put water on the area which got hit by gas for a quick fix.

GeorgeTSX

I remembered spilling gas all the time when I had my previous cars. So what I have been doing when filling up my TSX is getting a few of the paper towels from the dispenser by the window squeegee at the gas station, and putting them under the nozzle as I am pulling the nozzle out and cover the end of the nozzle as I pull it away from the car. I know it seems anal, but I have yet to spill a single drop on the car. Not trying to top off the tank helps preventing spills too (you shouldn't top off anyway*).

I am also thinking of putting an extra coat or two of Finish First in the area below the fuel tank door just in case.




*Why you shouldn't "top off" article...

http://yosemite.epa.gov/r3/press.nsf...b?OpenDocument

GeorgeTSX

Vasu, or anyone...

What do you use to remove polish from all the nook and crannies that towels can't get to? I used ear swab (Q-Tips) for working around the Acura and TSX badges and stuff but wondered if there was something better?

vasu

Yeah, if I can't get to it with a cloth then I also use Q-Tips.

darylnj

it appears that you have done your homework, there are alot of good tips. i put zano on my motorcycle it's black, the shine is second to none. have you ever heard of 5starshine check out the website- 5starshine.com,i'm interested in your comments. email me daryl lucas d340@netzero.net

vasu

Just made a trip to AutoZone they carry a new detail spray from Zymol called "Detail". It's basically the field glaze except it's 1) cheaper and 2) has a bit less carnuba.

The Field Glaze is 20% carnuba and $14 for 8oz

The Detail is 10% carnuba and $7 for 16oz.

I got a bottle and am going to test it out for my next detail job next weekend. Seeing as how I can pick it up around the block and don't have to order it like I do the Field Glaze, I might switch to this.

jessie

Rather than start a new thread I'll post my question here. What's the best way to remove dried wax or polymer from the grey/black plastic proliferating our vehicles now days. Thanks in advance.

Homer2

jessie . . .

use peanut butter. apply some to the affected area, and wipe it off . . .

Homer2

vasu - you have done, and are to be commended on the amount of work that went into this post - many of the tips are excellent for people who are new to car care.

as can be expected, there are always different ways to do things, and people who claim theres is the best. There are different products, and styles for car care out there, and for the most part I have no problem with all the info you have posted up here. There are some ares that alternative items could provide similar, or even better results - but "better" can be subjective when it comes to why a car looks better than another etc . .. so I NEVER get into a discussion on what is the only way to do something.

Can I clarify or comment on a few things though? And they are mostly Zaino related, so please dont take this as me trying to get people to buy Zaino - or not buy FF - everyone should use what they are happy with - whether wax or polymer.

1 - There are difference between your FF paint prep and Z1. As tested by the wax test people at gurureports - FF has a paint prep product that is used to cleanse the car (chemically) of contaminents that shouldnt be there - and thats fine. Z1 does NOT do that - it is a non-cleanser product - simply a conditioning agent to prep the surface and allow the top layer of polish (z2 or Z5) to bond. The car should be clean after claying - (a process I LOVE to do by the way). Older cars may need the cleansing that FF paint prep does - but newer ones wont really require such a cleansing . . . of course, if its crucial to apply the polymer , then so be it. I havent rad my FF literature in a while (i considered selling it a couple years ago, and am friends with a guy in Toronto who does)

2 - there are NOT 3 steps to apply zaino - there is only one product to lay on the car now. ZFX is an enzyme that gets mixed with the polish you want to use - and they are applied in ONE coat - not 3. When dry (10-30 minutes) you simply wipe the layer off . . .done. Then you an apply another one , and a third right after each other . .. they are totally cured - there is no waiting or benefit to waiting it out with ZFX. I suspect your thought about that comes from the old days of using Z1 and Z2 together - and allowing 24 hour curing time before the next (like FF does).

3- You mention using dawn d/w liquid when stripping off any polymer to "start again" if you wish. Yes, many folks will want to strip off what they have (since it lasts for months and months) to do touch up paint, or other paint related work - BUT, Dawn will NOT remove Zaino in any way shape or form. I do not suspect it removes FF either actually, but cant swear to that. Polymers (Zaino anyways) can ONLY be removed with either rubbing alcohol or an abrasive product (3m swirl remover, rubbing compounds etc) . . . There are, of course, times that people will use 3M # 39009 to remove zaino, if they have discoverd micro-marring or spider webbing etc , on the paint.....

4 - polymer on glass . . . Zaino zealots (yea we have names ) have long used it on their windshields, t-roof etc . . it works like rain-x in that manner. Tinting is inside the glass, or on the inside of the window - rarely on the outside of the glass (if at all). And since there is a differnt formulation between FF and Zaino (quite different actually) - I cant speak to the effects from FF.

5 - Claybars . .you love them, i love them - they are wonderous things for top notch car care . . . and i have nothing contrary to what you said - in fact , Im offering some insight. You like Mothers Bar (if I recall, but havent used Zaino) . It is made in the same factory as a matter of fact - different recipes, but same manufacturer . . . .

6- Again, I commend you for taking the time to put the post together - I spent hours doing a Zaino How to that I have likely mailed out about 2000 times this year - and it was a chore to do and get right . . . I understand the commitment it takes to put something like that together simply for the betterement of your fellow car enthusiast . . .

I "may" re-read and offer comments on the post (but not to attack, please understand that) - but I'd rather hang around a while and see if I can learn things - and teach some as well . . .more info and experience to offer is always a good thing . . .

Cheers

Dennis

jessie

Homer2. Not sure if you're joking but I'll try some. Thanks.

Homer2

im not joking . .and since everyone has it around the house . . .
it gets suggested a lot (cause it works)

Visorboy

I gotta give it a try myself.
Thanks for the tip Dennis.

Homer2

its the oils in it . .. there is another tip to do this, but its something a little less common in the house - and i cant remember it right now

PhaxXx

Hi all.. just got a new Nighthawk Black Pearl TSX. The car is spotless clean now and I have been reading all over about Zaino and other products. I have also been reading a lot of the posts on autopia.org.

What would you recommend that I do as the first steps of keeping my car nice and shiny? I plan on getting some of the microfiber towels and I got a california duster for the interior dash, etc.

A few questions...

1. Is Zaino good for a brand new car or better for a car that's a bit older and trying to revive the shine?
2. What do you recommend for glass cleaning? I use a non amonia glass cleaner and a newspaper to clean the windows now.
3. What's good for cleaning the NAV screen? Just a moist light towel?
4. Tire dressing.. what do you recommend? Black majic?

Thanks for your anticipated time..

vasu

Some of these were already answered in the faq..

1) Both..it'll keep the paint protected and also since since there are UV protecting agents it'll keep it from fading.

2) Stoner's Invisible Glass

3) I can't speak from experience as I don't own a car with a nav. If it's like a laptop screen, then a wet towel, even paper towel is fine. If it's really dirty you can mix about 60% water and 40% rubbing alcohol to make a good cleaning solution.

4) Stoner's More Shine - Less Time (spray) or Meguires High Endurance Gel (not the spray version). Black magic is bad.

Jason

STOP!!!!!

I don't think that is the proper way to clean the nav screen. Consult your owners manual to check the proper cleaning technique. They provide us with a cloth (or they did in my CL with nav) that should be used for cleaning. Paper towel and wet towels will scratch the screen. Be careful. No worries Vasu, you are still the car wash king.



Vasu

PhaxXx

Is the Stoner's supplies available at local auto parts stores? Thanks for the tips!

keylay

I have a couple questions to shoot vasu's way (or anyone who has a helpful answer.

1. Those micro fiber cloths you speak of for drying, can you post a link or should i just go to pep boys and look around. the only micro fiber cloths that im familure with are the small dusting kind. Not sure its the same thing.

2. I used to work at a care detail shop in napa valley (got to do lots of really really expensive cars) and when we clayed a car there was several types of clay to choose from. Not sure but i think it was based on the color of the car as to which clay we used. Threre was red clay, blue clay, and green clay. (thats all i can remember) Was wondering if the mothers clay is universal and how much it is. The stuff we had at the shop was like $100 bucks a small bar.

3. Might be more of a tip but i have this stuff called P & S Paint Gloss (its kind of a showroom waterless paint job spray) and i spray a section of the car with this and then use the clay in a 1 square foot area for about a minute. For anyone who hasnt used clay before its a lengthy process but when done the car is smooth and as soft as a, well you get the idea.

4. I havent tried this FF stuff but im real interested. My question is what if i dont have a garage. What can i do. Im assuming you mentioned a garage bc if you apple it outside and let it sit then dust, dirt etc will get on the car and when you take the FF stuff off this is scratch the car. Its like removing a coat of wax right. So is there a way around this or do i have the idea all wrong?

5. I am a personal fan of the Chamois. At the Detail shop we had these awome ones that worked better than any i have been able to find a Target, or pep boys or anywhere else. I need another good Chamois. Does anyone know a good website or place to get one. Im tired of all the generic ones that done work at all.

6. Not sure if this is up your alley but have you heard any good or bad about the RoadBlock Invisable Bra. Think its about $500 but is suposed to last 7 years. http://www.autobahndint.com/
No need? Or good investment?

7. I also use a paint brush for applying tire dressing. All i have right now is armor all, but the paint brush works great. You can also use a very very soft paint brush for removing excess wax in ridges on plastic, and in badges.

Good ideas, Bad ones, let me know.
Thanks, this thread has been a real help.

Homer2

Everything you ever wanted to know about microfibre is right below . . .

There are 2 processes needed for making a microfibre cloth.

The First is to make raw microfiber thread. This is the relatively cheap and easy part.
Typical microfibre is 80% polyester and 20% polyamide (high end stuff is 70/30). It's intended to be super-fine, with a standard denier of < 0.2. The "good stuff" is about 0.13 denier. Denier is a measurement based on the mass of 9000 meters of thread. 1 denier means 9,000 meters has a mass of 1 gram. The smaller the denier, the finer the threads.
To put it into comparison, extemely fine silk has a denier of about 1.25. This makes quality microfibre about 10 times finer than silk. Smooth and Soft!

Cheap Factory Trick #1: There's no real laws set on how fine microfiber has to be. A blend with a 0.9 denier is still "microfiber". A cheaper cloth is likely to be coarser. Granted, it's still finer than silk.

2nd part of making a cloth. Process it into a cloth.
Now, the neat thing about microfibre is that it's superfine, and thus can be super-tightly woven. If you weave microfibre thread into a towel, it forms a barrier that is practically waterproof! For a car... this is worthless. You probably bought a microfiber cloth to lift wax or remove water. A water resistant cloth is just going to smear stuff around.
The expensive part is what the industry just calls "splitting". Individual threads are split out and exposed like hooks so that they can absorb water and grab dirt and wax. A split microfiber cloth will happily suck up to 7 times it's mass in water, or burnish 5 cars before it needs washing.

Cheap Factory Trick #2: Don't split the fabric. No laws that say you NEED to. If you bought a cheap towel, you are running 80%+ odds that it's NOT split.


A good 80/20 cloth generally costs about $5-8 USD each ($15-$20 US for a 3-pack). The 70/30 blend "Magic/Miracle Towels" cost about $15 US for just one.
There is a huge difference between a cheap microfiber and a good one. If in doubt, stick to cotton

End result - YES, you can save money and get the wrong material . . .and yes some are just for household dusting etc . . .

I know all this because it took me a YEAR to find my supplier . .



Ive not heard of colour variations for different clay from one supplier.
My friend who also does "really nice cars" only has one colour -
and for a while it was blue - (claymagic) and then a commercial brand , and now its sorta yellow . .he uses Zaino clay on cars he does . . .

Bottom line - for your purposes - two top contenders are Mothers and Zaino (both made at the same factory with different properties actually) and you can hunt down the Claymagic if you want . . . one note - avoid the other brand that starts with "M" no one who knows , likes it . . .

My guess, its like the mothers - when you use their detail spray as a lube - i was never comfortable with that - i like to mix my car wash with water - its thicker and provides a better glide - then when done, wet the car up and wipe the residue (dried water and soap ) off the car . . dry and continue . .BUT, yes I do love the feeling after claying a car, even new ones benefit from this . . .

I can assume the garage is mentioned for the same reasons you want to do any product indoors if you can -sun and dirt make any polish/ wax job harder . . the heat, the temps cause uneven application, dirt can land on the car of outside and even if removing a wax, there can be trouble. One issue with polymers like FF or Zaino or Klasse etc .. is that it is applied in such thin layers - (1/3 ounce for a coat) compared to slapping on the wax, that you do want to be careful of the environment you remove it in . .windy dusty days arent great to be outdoors doing it . .

What are you using the chamois for? Drying I assume? Have you tried the artificial ones - like the Absorber? Im not a big fan of chamois' personally - (ive used then many years back, good ones) and based on the products available now, and what I know about this stuff, I would never go back to one . .BUT it is all about personal preference, so if you like them and the job they do - then by all means, dont switch cause some guy on the interent says he doesnt like them I dont know where to send you to get high-end ones though, no one really promotes them much anymore. (and i havent looked)



Invisible bras are EXCELLENT! 3M Stoneguard, and other brands are saving the front ends of cars all over . .Properly applied, the line is practically invisible - RESEARCH the installer as well as the product - get customer names from him/them . .go see the work.
Dont just assume the brand name means a good install . . .

So, you spray it on, then brush it around? Hmm . ..
One reason I wouldnt spray anything right onto the tires is the chance for overspray onto the paint . .I use a liquid spray (303 protectant) but spray it onto a rag then wipe the tire . .same as i do for interior cleaning . .303 is top rated for the job by enthusiasts, but no one likes the way it sprays, so its best put on a claoth first . .. unless you are doing a convertible top . . .


all ideas CAN be good . . .
thanks for contributing . . . .

keylay

Sweet thanks for the help but i want to get a better idea of a few things if i can.

1 and 5: So you use micro fiber to dry with or something else, whats best to use if i dont use Chamois?

2. Ya didnt think it mattered, thanks thou. Think im gona get some zaino clay but where can i get it. Online anywhere?

4. Mostly i meant is it bad to apply outside and leave on for 24hrs outside bc when removing the stuff all the dirt that has acumulated will scratch the car while buffing it off. Im not sure if its like removing wax or not. So if im going to do this do i absolutly need a garage, expecially if i have a brand new car and dont want to ruin a perfect paint job.

7. You got the wrong idea, i use a bowl or something and pour some protectant and dip the paint brush in it, then apply. I find it works better than a towel bc if you have already cleaned the rims and you acidentaly get some on them its a pain to polish them again. Paint brush is very accurate and covers the tire perfectly.

Thanks for the detailed responce, couldnt have asked for more. Im working with the dealer in Ventura and i really want to buy the Tsx in CG 6sp Man. non navi, im just trying to save more money for the down payment right now. Should be able to start moding it round christmas. Rims, lower it bout an inch, tint, thats all for now.
Think i got the mp3 thing figured out, how to add an ipod i mean. The aux converter that some have been talking about (plugs in beneath the cd player and basically gives you RCA in. Will run an rca to headphone jack under the shifter, and coin tray to inside the arm rest and hook up the ipod in there. But the part im wondering about is that i havent seen to many people say they have had speakers installed. I have subs and wanted to add them and an amp. If you know anything bout this venture hook me up with some knowledge. Thanks again. Hope to be a fellow TSX'er soon.

alamsjah

Vasu.. Could you post me the pic of zymol field glaze detail spray? Is it in the bottle or can? And where can I buy FF Products? I can't find them at Auto Zone or Checker as well..

Thanks

Scodaddyo

I am going to be getting a brand new black tsx...should i use all this stuff on the brand new paint, as soon as i get the car?

falco

YES use Zaino on beautiful new TSX and the paint will be like new for quite some time

Brad

I've tried clay bar on my 13-year-old Accord. I'm impressed with what it could pick up. For $15, I bought a Mother's brand clay bar set that includes the clay bar, detailing spray (used as a lubricant), and a very small sample bottle of carnauba wax, which I don't need.

However, I found plain soapy water to be an excellent lubricant, so I would rather use that than the detailing spray.

So, where can I buy only a clay bar? Pep Boys carried only the Mother's set, and I don't want to pay for stuff I don't need. Apparently, the clay bar is a synthetic material. It must be available somewhere without all the overhead of a set. I've even wondered if modeling clay would be useful... Ideas?

falco

http://www.zainostore.com/

Brad

I've also found clay bars at Classic Motoring Accessories, http://www.properautocare.com/

Prices are about the same, but shipping is a killer.

I'm wondering if Silly Putty would work? I think it's synthetic. It picks up stuff from surface--even newsprint ink.

DjElucid

how long will a 16 oz finish first last me? should I go for the 1 gal? What should I order? the polish and what else do I need to do the whole synthetic polymer process?

Scodaddyo

Which is better, or a mixture of both?

ZFX™ Flash Cure Accelerator Additive
Z-2™ Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Car Finishes
Z-5™ Show Car Polish for Swirl Marks and Fine Scratches
Z-6™ Ultra Clean Gloss Enhancer Spray
Z-7™ Show Car Wash
Z-18™ ClayBar
& TWO Zaino Bros' Custom Polish Applicator for FREE!

This kit is 84.70

or

Kit
9 Piece Kit Includes the Following Products: US$84.95 | Order Item

Wash and Conditioner, Finish Prep, Finish First Polish, Finish Fast, Liqui-Tech Protectant with Lanolin, Custom Wheel/Metals Protector and #421 MPC (multi-purpose cleaner) Window Finish, Metal Finish Polishing Creme.


I'm getting the TSX in about 10 days, so i would like to order this stuff soon, so i have it when the car gets here...please let me know what you think..thanks

PhaxXx

What do you guys suggest for a decent car wash detergent? I don't want to use Blue Dawn because I understand it will take off any polish, etc. I got a new car and just want to wash it clean.

Also - was able to find Stoner's Invisible Glass at Wal-Mart. Also purchased Eagle One All Wheel & Tire Clean A2Z and really impressed with this product. I also purchased the micro fiber towels in a 5 pack.

Hopefully tomorrow morning will be car wash time for my baby.

slats

As a proffesional detailer, I must say that you are wrong about one thing: a car should never be washed with dishwashing detergent. It strips off the wax and can cause damage to the paint. A soap designed for washing cars (such as Meguiar's Gold Class Wash) is safe and much better for washing a new TSX.

Slats

vasu

If you are using a synthetic polymer instead of a carnuba wax for protection, then you can use dawn soap to wash the car for deep cleaning, as it wont strip the polymer. It'll strip the wax and a whole lotta dirt, which is exactly the point of using it. Sometimes I layer a coat of carnuba ontop of polymer surface, and when I wanna make sure the surface is properly cleaned for another layer of polymer, stripping off wax is exactly what I want to do.

Even then, washing with dawn is something I do only once or twice a year for deep cleaning, and since I use polymer for protection, I don't have to worry about it stripping that off and then going after my paint and dulling it.

I'd certainly never use it for routine cleanings and I'd never use it if all I used was carnuba wax for protection.

-vasu

slats

Good to know. I just thought it should be clarified. By the way, I really like your idea of runnning lysol through the a/c system. Great idea. I'll have to try that.

Slats

18anatak

Dishwashing soap on a car =
No matter what the situation, you should never put that on your car. Think about it, do you wash dishes with car soap?

vasu

zaino themselves say it's ok to strip old wax off of the car. If I only used carnuba on my car, I wouldn't, cause carnuba can't deal wtih that. But a polymer can deal with it, and it'll deep clean all the other crap off the top.

18anatak

I know the Zaino site says its ok to use it, and just for that reason i have never tried them. The first rule in the book is to use car wash soap for your car, and keep the Dawn in the kitchen. If you want to "clean all the other crap off the top" just clay it. A dishwashing detergent is way too harsh for a clear coat finish. It will strip everything off, including the oils in the clear coat which gives it its shine. Over time, with repeated uses, it will dull the clear coat, giving it the "oxidized, cloudy" look.

TSXTim

How do you clean detail engine bay?

Also, how does Liquid Glass compare to Finish First ?

vasu

I don't really know about the engine bay (sorry).

As far as Liquid Glass... I haven't tried it yet, but I read an article by Guru Reports saying that it was the exact same as Finish First.

I saw a bottle of it once at Auto Zone and it was the same bottle with different graphics on it, and it had the same odor.

So while I can't personally confirm it, it seems as though the two are one in the same. Either Liquid Glass makes the polymer for Finish First too, or vice-versa.

One company making products using other companies names is very common these days.

-vasu

Homer2

Its a one-time thing . . only because it strips off all waxes . .no questions asked. If you think one washing will suck the oils out of the paint, thats simply being overly cautious. It is done to provide a wax free surface - BUT YES, claying will do the same thing. washing with many car wash soaps does not really remove a great deal of existing wax. In fact. several have wax in them . . cleans and shines? thats a hint . . .when shopping that it may very well contain wax... not what you want when switching to a polymer from a wax. Otherwise, i agree - no sense to wash the car with dawn . . wax to wax . .not a problem . ..

spelldog

Ok - I picked up my new nighthawk black TSX a couple weeks ago and now that the weather is starting to turn (and I found this great site), I need to pick up car wash / detail products. As I am basically starting from scratch, what do you all suggest I buy to start off?

Here is my list so far:

clay bar
car wash solution
rain-x
detail spray
soft bristle brush
water blade / microfiber chamois
black tire spray

Are there any good sites on the web where I could get all of these things in 1 place?

jlukja

Don't forget the interior. A good leather cleaner and leather conditioner, and something to clean and protect the vinyl/plastic pieces.