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So guys I really did messed up today fml. So I was changing my transmission fluid I was doing the drain and fill. I drained it and as I was putting the bolt back I over tightened it with my wrench. I looked up and back and I cracked the housing or the part where the bolt threads into. I don't know what do to, what are the options?
Well. You can have that welded and then tap in a tool less drain valve.
Or replace the outer housing. They're about $300 from Acura. Thats if you know how to replace housings. Otherwise, you'll need someone who knows how to take apart and put back together transmissions to fix it.
Well. You can have that welded and then tap in a tool less drain valve.
Or replace the outer housing. They're about $300 from Acura. Thats if you know how to replace housings. Otherwise, you'll need someone who knows how to take apart and put back together transmissions to fix it.
Use a torque wrench set at 31LB next time.
what's the part code for the outter housing? And well I put some jb weld on it to see if it'll hold I put it yesterday afternoon letting it dry till about noon today then im going to go ahead and put the bolt in and see if it'll be okay. How long do you think the jb weld will hold for?
what's the part code for the outter housing? And well I put some jb weld on it to see if it'll hold I put it yesterday afternoon letting it dry till about noon today then im going to go ahead and put the bolt in and see if it'll be okay. How long do you think the jb weld will hold for?
It'll probably leak right away and you won't be able to torque that bolt. So it will leak. If by some miracle, it holds the torque and is leak free....you'll never be able to take that bolt back out or it will start to leak again.
Hopefully you let the new owner know when you decide to sell it.
The trans housing can be found under "manual transmission" on bernardiparts.com or other honda parts sites.
It'll probably leak right away and you won't be able to torque that bolt. So it will leak. If by some miracle, it holds the torque and is leak free....you'll never be able to take that bolt back out or it will start to leak again.
Hopefully you let the new owner know when you decide to sell it.
The trans housing can be found under "manual transmission" on bernardiparts.com or other honda parts sites.
Yeah it's not going to work the jb weld, but that part can be welded on for sure? It's aluminum I just need to find someone that could do it if that's the case.
Cast aluminum can definitely be welded if the welder is competent enough. You'll probably need to plug the whole thing and then tap in a tool-less drain valve. Kind of like a radiator drain valve.
Cast aluminum can definitely be welded if the welder is competent enough. You'll probably need to plug the whole thing and then tap in a tool-less drain valve. Kind of like a radiator drain valve.
I see thank you for the help. I appreciate it. Either way the transmission has to come out of my car, so I'll see which one is the best. either plug it up then tap it or just get the whole part. Just sucks something so simple in theory can just make a big mess.
I don't think the trans has to come out to be welded, though.
The best way to fix it would be to buy a new housing. I can say that removing this trans sucks haha. The front and rear motor mounts will fight you to the death.
You've got quite a bit of thread left in the housing. First thing I'd try (since it's free) is tape the bolt well (with teflon plumber's tape, which I have) and screw it back in (and tighten it not quite as much as you did the last time :-p). What's the worse that can happen?
Keep in mind that the housing is a magnesium alloy - it may not weld well unless the welder really know what they're doing there.
I was going to suggest the Teflon tape + a NEW bolt (to ensure threads are as clean and large as they can be).
Wouldn't hurt to try a dab of Hondabond around the ridge of the threads/broken part/normal bolt seating area... basically as a last line of defense against leaks.
I don't think the trans has to come out to be welded, though.
The best way to fix it would be to buy a new housing. I can say that removing this trans sucks haha. The front and rear motor mounts will fight you to the death.
On a lift, its easier. But...it still sucks.
Ya it blows, what do you think of a quote I got to get the case replaced they want to charge me 1,200 for labor?
You've got quite a bit of thread left in the housing. First thing I'd try (since it's free) is tape the bolt well (with teflon plumber's tape, which I have) and screw it back in (and tighten it not quite as much as you did the last time :-p). What's the worse that can happen?
Hahaha ya I tried it and still kind of leaks with the Teflon tape :/
Keep in mind that the housing is a magnesium alloy - it may not weld well unless the welder really know what they're doing there.
I was going to suggest the Teflon tape + a NEW bolt (to ensure threads are as clean and large as they can be).
Wouldn't hurt to try a dab of Hondabond around the ridge of the threads/broken part/normal bolt seating area... basically as a last line of defense against leaks.
So I put the Teflon tape with the new bolt and then put hondabond on the broken piece of the thread area and put it back on With the bolt on first or after?
Ah yes. I forgot that the housing is Magnesium alloy. In case anyone is interested....confirmed on Monday that it is 10LB lighter than a K20 6spd trans.
Anyway...$1200!!!!!! Whhhhhuuut.
I had a really great shop in this area do my clutch the last time because I was crunched for time. They charged $350...which, I know, is a steal, and that its probably a special price because I'm a special guy. They usually charge people $450 in labor for the same car to R&R a trans.
I also removed a trans from another TSX a few days ago and had the same shop change out the worn 3rd and 4th gears and synchro. $250 labor (and they ended up having to change housing). $225 parts from Honda for the gears/synchros.
Based on that...if I had them R&R the trans and install a new housing...that would come to $700 in labor (or $600 if you're me).
Find a better shop. LOL $1200 labor. Maybe that's the going rate, though. Ask around. I wouldn't pay that.
07-19-2015, 02:54 PM
