2007 TSX

I have to change my upper control arms(both front ones and only right rear) and was told that this is the time to change the shocks and struts too. Since my car has 242k miles, I want to go with the OEM ones to last a very longtime. I only go with aftermarket parts if they are much better since the TSX is very reliable. I can’t seem to locate a strut assembly #52610-sec-a04 and 51601-sec-a06. Exactly where can I find these since I know I am not the only one in the world that needs to change his struts/shocks on a TSX. Or what parts do not need to be changed?
Thanks in advance

 

^
Front & rear OEM strut assemblies appear to be discontinued from Acura as seen below.






Go to rockauto.com and search the OEM part numbers above in the field indicated below to see their selection.
Or input your vehicle data to see all the parts they offer for your car.
Make a choice and google search for the 5% discount coupon to save a little more.

 

Is there an aftermarket strut that you can recomend?

 

Not personally other than Tein.
IIRC'ly, though, I have heard @EasyLoveRDX recommend the one's below here on the forums?
It does not appear there are any complete assemblies made by KYB for your vehicle.
As a result you would have to disassemble the old to incorporate the new struts below.

Good Luck!

 

^Yes I have four KYB coilover assemblies going in my 2008 Accord which is basically a less fancy TSX. I also have a pair of KYB Excel-Gs in the back of my RDX at the moment while I await warranty exchange on one of my BC Racing struts. There are cheaper struts out there but I'd rather pay more for quality because the roads around here suck.

I'm actually ripping out all the Accord's suspension and starting fresh. I never go OEM for suspension parts; plenty of aftermarket names as good or better. Got mostly Delphi parts but also have had good experiences with ACDelco Gold and Mevotech Supreme (only the supreme line tho, not a fan of their cheaper 'OE equivalent' line). Mevotech TTX lower balljoints currently holding up well in the RDX for example.

(I always go OEM for things like engine sensors fwiw).

 

Also, I'd replace the left rear control arm too. My philosophy is to do symmetrical replacements, i.e. if you replace something on the right side, you replace the matching part on the left side, and vice versa.

Technically it's less cost effective, but you're avoiding issues down the road caused by uneven wear.

The reason I'm replacing ALL the suspension in my Accord is that it's cumulatively less work to replace everything in one sitting vs doing it piecemeal over time. If I have to e.g. detach the lower ball joint from the lower control arm to take out the strut, half the work of replacing that lower control arm is already done, and if it has worn bushings and will need to be replaced soon, why not just replace it then? Might as well replace swaybar links while I'm at it since those attach to the strut. Etc etc.

Same thing with engine mounts, sorta - replace them all at once.

My $0.02 - I'm not a real mechanic, just a dumbass with wrenches.

 

Sorry for disappearing, I’ve been real busy.

I need an adjustable rear upper control arm on the passenger side because apparently the car has an accident and I cant get the car aligned. The front ones need to be changed because they are worn out. The driver right rear is good but I will be changing it per the forums advice.

I bought this car used and the suspension is/are shot.

I want to change out all of the parts that are probably worn out and a complete suspension assembly kit is really what I need. Please help.

I have already ordered all (7) of the motor/transmission mounts and will be doing that when they get here. The car shakes like a W$%^e in church.

 

All 7 motor mounts? There are 5 but I'm guessing you also got a pair of subframe mounts too. I'd leave those alone but deff replace the motor/trans mounts. I just finished doing those on my accord. The three on the side are not bad, but the one in the front is tough due to seized bolts from salt/road spray, and the one in the rear is just a pain to access. You'll need some looooooong socket extensions.

As for suspension... here are the the different "pieces" of the front:

• Upper control arms with upper ball joint <--- get one with an adjustable ball joint so you can fix your toe alignment
• Lower control arms
• Swaybar links
• Swaybar bushings
• Coilovers (spring/damper assembly)
• Loaded knuckles <--- this has the hub, bearing, and lower ball joint already pressed in. Huge time saver. Otherwise, you can reuse your existing knuckles and possibly the bearings if they're ok, but deff replace the ball joint.
• Strut fork <--- this is a solid piece of stamped steel with no moving parts, just clean it up and reuse it.

 

And in the rear you have:

• Upper control arm*
• Lower control arm*
• Lower arm A, aka lower forward arm
• Lower arm B*, aka lower trailing arm
• Swaybar links
• Swaybar bushings*
• Coil/spring assembly*
• Knuckle <-- this has bushings that wear out, may be worth replacing
• Hub/bearing assembly* <--- this bolts onto the knuckle unlike the front and is very easy to replace

*Same part for both sides. The other parts have a separate part number for left and right because they are mirror images of eachother.

 

Thank you very much! Can you tell me which of these front “pieces” are parts that wear out, or bushing I should change? I ordered KYB struts for the front and want to change all of the wearable parts to hopefully not have this headache for a loooong time. I also ordered the OEM Upper control arm.
Thank you

 

Depends on how good or bad the roads are in your area.

Where I live, paved roads are so bad you might as well be off-roading, and almost everything is a wear part. Struts are basically 100k mile parts and it's a given that they'll wear out by then for example.

For my Accord suspension rebuild, the strut fork is literally the only part that I'm reusing. Everything else is getting replaced. Car has 145k on it and with the exception of a ball joint the suspension is stock, and I can really feel it.

In areas that have competent DPWs and well-maintained roads, things like wheel bearings very well may outlast the vehicle, and you can get 200k+ out of other parts.

The lower ball joint generally takes the most abuse from potholes etc. and is one of the more critical wear components. Control arm bushings also wear more with mileage because the rubber rots and cracks. I wonder if areas that don't have road salt might be less prone to this issue but I only work on cars in new england.

Also consider that it's less time and work to replace everything in one sitting vs replacing parts as they fail. And failing parts often put more stress on other parts causing other premature failures.

Hope that helps.