have an 04 TSX with 49700 miles. Lately when driving longer distance and braking more in the infamous LA traffic, noticing steering wheel vibrations. Probably due to either warped rotor? or something built up on there from some articles I have read.

Should I get the rotor replaced like some car shop suggests?

or

Resurfacing the rotor is good enough? some shop doesnt recommend it saying it will thin out the rotor and too dangerous, but I just got my pad replaced 2 months ago, dont really wanna throw away the pad and get a whole new set.....

thanks...

 

Before you do either, swap the brake pads and see if the problem goes away. Could be that simple.

 

Should still be under warranty barely. See if the dealership will do it for free like they did mine. They just resurfaced the fronts and I was just as good as new.

 

thx for all the response, I was thinking to ask the dealer first... however, from my house to dealer is only 20 minutes, and probably won't be enough to reproduce the problem just yet, will they be able to just inspect and see the problem then resurface it?....

swap brake pad.. suppose I can do that, but I'm trying to squeeze my warranty before I spend more ha, both advise are greatly appreciated!!!!!!!

 

Brakes and rotors are a wear item so good luck trying to get it covered under warranty.

If they refuse to cover it, then give the brake pads a shot. You can do your own brake pad replacement and it may just cure the problem. $80 fix versus whatever the stealership may charge for a full brake job.

 

My dealer said they'd cover it one time. Based on his mileage it may be iffy.

 

It's pretty hit or miss. Some people have had some luck, but others have gotten the shaft.

That's why I wished him luck. He's gonna need it.

 

I will be calling tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! will get back to you guys!

 

Is the vibration during driving, or just when braking?

An alignment problem could also be the cause of steering wheel vibrations while braking.

 

from everything i read on this problem, the concensus seems to be to get the rotor's resurfaced once and never use OEM brakes again. put some Hawk's ceramics on there.

 

I work for the largest brake pad manufacturer in the world (OE and Aftermarket)... any guesses!? Specifically, I work on the Ford Motorcraft service brake line (pads and rotors). Based on my experience:

PROBLEM: The pulsation is caused by thickness varitation on your rotor. When one part of the rotor is thinner than another, the caliper has to compensate for this when the brake pedal is applied - hence the pulsation (sometimes you can feel it in the steering wheel, pedal, etc.).

Rotors are continuously getting smaller and lighter (in order to reduce GVW, improve EPA rating, etc.). Due to this, rotors simply do not last as long as they have in the past.

Rotors will have a minimum thickness labeled on the rotor, as long as you can be within
this spec after turning, you can turn (resurface) the rotor.

If you just replaced the brake pads, you can probably get away with using them on a turned or new rotor. IN EITHER CASE, it is essential that the tech. "burnishes" the brake pads with the new rotors (45mph-25mph, 20-30 times).

IMHO, I would prefer the OE pads/rotors over ANY aftermarket brake pads - but I am not a tuner/rice rocket kind of guy.

I agree with CGTSX2004 - good luck getting the dealership to warranty a wear item with 50K miles!!!

GO PISTONS!!!

 

you must be new here.

the OEM TSX brakes are garbage.

 

That sucks! I've had my TSX for 3 weeks - haven't rear ended anyone yet!

 

Actually, the brakes aren't nearly as bad as people claim. Most of the complaints are with the fade characteristics of the brake pads and the tendency of the pads to leave deposits on the rotors.

The brakes are plenty strong enough to lock up the wheels so greatly improved braking is actually pretty easily achieved by switching to different tires. A set of proper, sticky tires greatly improves the braking capabilities of the car as the stock Michelins are pretty mediocre in terms of their grip.

 

my rotors needed to be resurfaced twice already under 30k miles. I didn't want to spend nearly 200, figure i get powerslotted rotors and hawk pad brakes.

Solved the problem fine, The dealers were reluctant to replace them or resurface them for free.

 

I'm confused, what was $200? I thought the rotors and pads would be more than that.

Did you only do the fronts, or did you do the fronts and the rears?

 

+1

But I don't understand why they do just once. It's not like replacing the rotors...I would pay for that if they replace the whole rotors

 

The rear rotors were warped, so they resurfaced it in orlands when i made my trip down.

the 2nd time i noticed more warping so i was like screw it i'm not spending 200 again for only front or just back. so i replaced the front rotors. (hawk pads and power slotted)

 

I had my f/r rotors replaced at 35k miles, I was getting terrible vibration. Left the stock pads on. Afterwards, the brakes had perfect feel. For about 2 months, then the vibration returned.

At 50k miles I could no longer stand the vibration. I swapped in set of Hawk pads (f/r), left the rotors and the problem is gone. In addition, the brakes no longer feel "overboosted" or sort of grabby. No more vibration, etc.

I have had the same set of rotors and pads (OEM) on my S2000 for 45,000 miles. I drive that car much harder than the TSX and I have had zero problems with the brakes.

I'm inclined to think that the TSX OEM brake pads are garbage. I don't blame the dealer for my problems, but I can tell you with certainty they will be getting none of my money in the future for brake service.

 

Be careful not to wash your car right after a hard drive either. Cold water on hot brake rotors will warp them quicker. They can probably be turned and still be within thickness tolerances.

 

I got the steelership the resurface my rotors at like 20k for free...., but almost right after that the vibrations came back......, THESE OEM PADS SUCK........ went back and afew days ago...., but many miles later and they wouldnt do it for free again..... I kind of figured they wouldnt but I tried.....

So I'm to the point where i have to put rear brakes on and the fronts are just about done as well....... Im pretty sure that the rear rotors are pitted so i will be needing new rotors in the rear......,

Should I just put new rotors and pads in the rear along with new pads in the front and just resurface the front rotors or should i get new pads and rotors all the way around??

Also what is everybodys opinion on the racing brake rotors and hps pads combo??? are the two piece rotors worth the extra money or should i just go with the one piece???

Thanks......

 

There is a Motor Trend article out there somewhere about the OEM pads leaving deposits on the rotors, and causing vibration problems. Do what I did, get some Hawk ceramic pads and resurface the rotors. Your problems will be solved.

 

do you think the ceramic pads are better than the HPS pads???? why did u decide on the ceramic ones....???

 

I bought them at Tire Rack, and the web site seemed to reccommend that if your car comes with ceramic pads, to replace them with ceramic pads. That being said there are a ton of people here that use the HPS's with no problems.

I think they are supposed to be slightly quieter and less dusty than the HPS pads, at a slight cost to performance. They are still a thousand times better than the stock pads.

 

you're correct. i looked at the site and it recommends the same thing. as far as differences, if i recall correctly, HPS requires more time to heat up while braking so your first few brakes won't be as good as it should be.

i'd go with the ceramics.


I would also like to know what is the advantage, if any, for two piece rotors.

 

"I would also like to know what is the advantage, if any, for two piece rotors."

me too......, I guess it just disipates heat better?????

 

It will all depend on whether the Service Manager is any good at Creative Writing. You'd be amazed at what Acura will cover if it's presented to them properly.

 

Swap how? Right to left and left to right, or existing pads with brand new pads?

 

No real benefit to road users - track cars, then easy enough to change rotor for new one when worn or damaged leaving top hat in situ.
Alternatively, slotted for track days, swap back to drilled for normal everyday use.

 

^^ and they are lighter than 1 piece rotors.

 

Brand new aftermarket pads (eg. Hawk). The OEM pads have a tendency to leave deposits on the rotor that, during braking, feels like the rotor may be warped. Aftermarket pads, after proper bed-in, should remove these deposits and offer better braking.

 

I'm going to order some Hawks now. Thank you for advice.

 

Just ordered Hawk front and rear HPS from Mr heeltoe, $148.80 shipped.

I am going to ask Pedboy or Midas to resurface rotor and install pads. Anyone against Pepboy or Midas? Which one should i go? I am in North NJ if that matter. Acura wouldn't do aftermarket pad and Pepboy asks $85 for labor.

 

Call first and make sure they'll do it. I had to call like 4 places to find a brake place that would put on someone else's pads.

 

Be careful with both Pep Boys and Midas. Don't leave your car, stay there the whole time and watch them as they work. I have heard from friends and family of dropping cars at these places then returning to be told that their vehicles needed all sorts of unnecessary work. Also, some of the workers at these places don't care much about your car and you may return to find scratches and/or grease in places you had never noticed before. Just keep an eye on them. A good judge is usually the cleanliness of the shop, especially with a big commercial place like Midas or Pep Boys. Don't you have a tire & wheel shop that you use and trust?

 

I didn't resurface the rotors, just changed to the HPS pads, no more problems.

 

Just came back from Pepboy with all four wheel resurfaced and replaced with HPS. They asked for $175 out the door. I stand there the whole time (2 hours) to make sure.

I beded in the pad myself per Hawk instruction (10 regular, 3 hard stop and 20 minutes rest). At the end, $148 parts from Mr. Heeltoe plus another $175 labor, i am happy. Will report the pad after few weeks.

 

Hey, is there anyway to take off the pads and just "clean" the rotor surface without having to get it resurfaced? Any type of chemical that can be used to get the deposits off? Maybe that would a be a hepful temporary solution....plus i was thinking about doing that eventually.

 

No

The purpose of resurfacing is not to remove contaminants, but to provide a nice, smooth surface for the new pads to work with.

IMO, you should resurface rotors at every brake job and when this has been done too many times and the rotor is too thin, get new rotors. Any reputable auto parts store will take your old rotors, see if they are within spec, and if so resurface them for you.

 

Quote from Hawk
If discs do not need resurfacing, then contamination from the previous brake pads must be removed. Sand discs with 130 grit sandpaper using moderate pressure. Use soap and water to clean discs’ surface after sanding and machining. Discs should be free and clear of oil, grease, and brake fluid.