I'm sick of these OEM warping rotors and am looking for replacement rotors....
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
I'm sick of these OEM warping rotors and am looking for replacement rotors....
im sick of these warping OEM acura cheap crap rotors that keep warping, the first set of rotors warped at 15-20,000 miles, the second set of rotors that Acura replaced for free also warped in 15,000 miles.... christ, i mean how cheap are these rotors??? im pretty sure not even Dodges and pontiacs have this problem.....
anybody know what is a good brand to replace these OEM pieces of crap for? i was thinking Brembo OEM replacement rotors.... i was also thinking powerslots but i read somewhere not to buy slotted rotors for some reason.... anybody know?
anybody know what is a good brand to replace these OEM pieces of crap for? i was thinking Brembo OEM replacement rotors.... i was also thinking powerslots but i read somewhere not to buy slotted rotors for some reason.... anybody know?
#2
Moderator
I avoid cross-drilled rotors as they are more prone to cracking. Though, the new IS-F comes with cross-drilled rotors, so
One of my buddies has a 05 Accord M/T that is running Powerslot slotted rotors with a set of Akebono ProACT ceramic pads. Great stopping power, low noise, and low dust. About $240 shipped for the fronts. (Pads and rotors)
One of my buddies has a 05 Accord M/T that is running Powerslot slotted rotors with a set of Akebono ProACT ceramic pads. Great stopping power, low noise, and low dust. About $240 shipped for the fronts. (Pads and rotors)
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by SodaLuvr
I avoid cross-drilled rotors as they are more prone to cracking. Though, the new IS-F comes with cross-drilled rotors, so
One of my buddies has a 05 Accord M/T that is running Powerslot slotted rotors with a set of Akebono ProACT ceramic pads. Great stopping power, low noise, and low dust. About $240 shipped for the fronts. (Pads and rotors)
One of my buddies has a 05 Accord M/T that is running Powerslot slotted rotors with a set of Akebono ProACT ceramic pads. Great stopping power, low noise, and low dust. About $240 shipped for the fronts. (Pads and rotors)
#5
Moderator
I was able to get the Powerslot rotors and Akebono pads from my parts guy for much less than what Tirerack charges.
A bit of warning...slotted or drilled rotors tend to cause some brake noise, so it's very likely that you will experience some noise, even with proper burnishing and lubrication.
My buddy with the aforementioned Accord does get a light, brief squeak every once in a while (say, 2 out of every 10 stops).
Pad choices will affect this as well...
A bit of warning...slotted or drilled rotors tend to cause some brake noise, so it's very likely that you will experience some noise, even with proper burnishing and lubrication.
My buddy with the aforementioned Accord does get a light, brief squeak every once in a while (say, 2 out of every 10 stops).
Pad choices will affect this as well...
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
ok, ive read reviews on the brembo replacements and lot of people are getting warping, decided on the powerslots..... but i have a question on the brake pads.... whats the difference between "Hawk ceramic pads" and "hawk HPS pads"???
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#12
I had the same recurring problem with the brakes. I finally got fed up of returning to the dealer and this past June I installed Powerslots and Axxis ULT Ceramic pads all around. I completely flushed the brake fluid at the same time. I followed the proper bed-in procedure and currently there is no vibration nor noise when braking (there was some initial vibration and noise during bed-in, but this eventually went away). Even during spirited driving, there is little to no fade, and brake dust is minimal. I followed the service manual instructions and applied sufficient amounts of the Honda Molykote grease where directed to ensure there would be no noise issues. As far as cost, I got the rotors through Tirerack.com, since they happened to be on sale at the time and have good customer service. I got the Axxis pads from an Ebay store, for around $100 for all four corners.
#13
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I bought R1-Concepts drilled and slotted rotors with installed Okebono ceramic pad and am very happen. I put them on with only a couple of hundred miles on the car, so I don't have anything to compare them o. I have the same setup on another car and they have been on for three years and the wheels stay clean and they look good despite the road salt that we have in Michigan.
#14
Senior Moderator
I've been running the R1 concepts drill/slotted rotors also, but with the metallic pads. They have been great so far. The metallics are a bit dusty, I think next time I'll go with the ceramic pads. Here's the link:
http://www.r1concepts.com/
http://store.r1concepts.com/Brake%20Rotors/Acura/TSX/
http://www.r1concepts.com/
http://store.r1concepts.com/Brake%20Rotors/Acura/TSX/
#15
just curious but are most of you with thie warping problem driving real aggressive or riding the brakes to slow down? I've driven mine pretty hard ever since i got it and have yet to have any type of shimmy or anything. I also use my brakes a little harder and for a shorter distance then most people and once i come to a stop. i also, if i don't roll anywhere, keep my foot off the brakes at a stop. Is it driving styles causing this problem or just crap pads and rotors?
#16
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by lvcurvs
just curious but are most of you with thie warping problem driving real aggressive or riding the brakes to slow down? I've driven mine pretty hard ever since i got it and have yet to have any type of shimmy or anything. I also use my brakes a little harder and for a shorter distance then most people and once i come to a stop. i also, if i don't roll anywhere, keep my foot off the brakes at a stop. Is it driving styles causing this problem or just crap pads and rotors?
#17
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
If you're looking for some OE replacements you should like into ROTORA slotted rotors also as an option.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167815
Developed with the same parameters as the Original Equipment (OE) specifications in both quality and finish, Rotora’s direct replacement brake discs are assured to meet and exceed all vehicle manufacturers’ specifications and tolerances under the worldwide ISO 9001 quality standards. CNC machined and balanced for optimum performance, Rotora’s brake discs feature special segmented slot, or drill & slot pattern which is applied to the disc’s front and back surfaces to ensure maximum heat and gas dissipation for greater stopping power and minimize warping and cracking caused by repeated, high stress, high temperature braking. With an “e-coat” (black) plating finish as an added protective layer to reduce corrosion and prolong disc life, Rotora’s brake disc quality guarantees top performance and longer durability.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167815
Developed with the same parameters as the Original Equipment (OE) specifications in both quality and finish, Rotora’s direct replacement brake discs are assured to meet and exceed all vehicle manufacturers’ specifications and tolerances under the worldwide ISO 9001 quality standards. CNC machined and balanced for optimum performance, Rotora’s brake discs feature special segmented slot, or drill & slot pattern which is applied to the disc’s front and back surfaces to ensure maximum heat and gas dissipation for greater stopping power and minimize warping and cracking caused by repeated, high stress, high temperature braking. With an “e-coat” (black) plating finish as an added protective layer to reduce corrosion and prolong disc life, Rotora’s brake disc quality guarantees top performance and longer durability.
#18
> 100K Mile Club Member
Originally Posted by Savio
I've got Rotora slotted rotors and Hawks HPS from Excelerate and Heeltoe, respectively.
Works like a champ...
Works like a champ...
No squeaking that SodaLuvr is referring to.
#21
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by rmjames007
For those of you who got the Powerslot Rotors what is the model number of the Drilled and slotted rotors you bought? I looked on tire rack and I dont see them
This is what I got: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=S
#22
> 100K Mile Club Member
Originally Posted by SodaLuvr
Depending on the pad used, noise can be an issue...
#23
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Originally Posted by lvcurvs
just curious but are most of you with thie warping problem driving real aggressive or riding the brakes to slow down? I've driven mine pretty hard ever since i got it and have yet to have any type of shimmy or anything. I also use my brakes a little harder and for a shorter distance then most people and once i come to a stop. i also, if i don't roll anywhere, keep my foot off the brakes at a stop. Is it driving styles causing this problem or just crap pads and rotors?
#24
luvs redheads!
I highly recommend racingbrake.com for rotors and perfectbrake.com for pads.
I would go with EBC greenstuffs, hawk, or Axxis.
Also go with slotted rotors only.
good luck and that should take care of your issues. also make sure your calipers are not hung up and dragging more which would create excess heat all the time causing the warp.
ben
I would go with EBC greenstuffs, hawk, or Axxis.
Also go with slotted rotors only.
good luck and that should take care of your issues. also make sure your calipers are not hung up and dragging more which would create excess heat all the time causing the warp.
ben
#25
Racer
I got the racingbrake rotors up front and hawk hps pads up front this summer. I tried them out in the mountains last weekend and they were great. I used to get that warped feeling and my braking power would significantly decrease after 15 minutes of spirited driving. They lasted much longer.
On another note, today this stupid bitch in a tahoe back out of her parking space on the street and I had to stop from 30mph to keep from t-boning her...no sweat. She didn't even realize what she did until she was all the way backed out and I was 5 ft away from her.
On another note, today this stupid bitch in a tahoe back out of her parking space on the street and I had to stop from 30mph to keep from t-boning her...no sweat. She didn't even realize what she did until she was all the way backed out and I was 5 ft away from her.
#26
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Read these articles....
the low-down on brakes, my opinions
Details on Racingbrake...more than you need to know
the low-down on brakes, my opinions
Details on Racingbrake...more than you need to know
#27
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Originally Posted by HoRRo
I would also have to say that it's driving styles that determines the condition of your rotors/pads. I've taken my car to the track 4 times on stock rotors (Hawk HP+ pads), and with over 65,000km, I have no warping issues.
#29
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Johns
Although driving style and excessive braking can shorten the life of rotors, the TSX rotors are just plain poor. My wife's TSX had to have the rotors replaced at 18,000 and 40,000. She is not an aggressive driver, and has never had warped rotors in any previous car. This is a 2004 TSX. Acura may have changed the rotors for newer models.
#31
Moderator
Originally Posted by rmjames007
Can any one suggest a Drilled and Slotted Rotor besides a Brembo?
#32
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Then why do so many preformance car manufactures use them?
Has any one used these rotors. R1 Concepts?
http://store.r1concepts.com/Items/bo...1?sck=10069583
Has any one used these rotors. R1 Concepts?
http://store.r1concepts.com/Items/bo...1?sck=10069583
#33
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by SodaLuvr
Don't use cross-drilled rotors, IMO. They are more prone to cracking and the drilling provides little to no benefit. Stick with slotted only.
Any rotor can crack, but cheap drilled rotors create a stress riser. This provides a place for cracks to propagate.
BUT, that does not mean that all drilled rotors are prone to cracking. The quality of the rotor material has a lot to do with it. There are a lot of myths floating around out there about this topic.
Taken from my Racingbrake article:
Originally Posted by MrHeeltoe
1.5- My last comment on material has to do with the subject of cross drilling. There seems to be an awfully big backlash against cross drilling recently. The general claim is that they are more prone to cracking because the drill holes act as stress risers; a place for cracks to start. Well, in most cases, where junk rotors are prone to cracking anyway, I would definitely agree that drilled rotors are going to propagate cracks more readily. All too often we have companies buying cheap blanks and boring holes in them all willy-nilly. In the case of a rotor such as a Racingbrake, the rotors are designed to be able to handle drills being put in them. The material, as stated, is less prone to cracking from the get go, and is therefore less crack prone when drilled. Cracking is not nearly as significant an issue with Racingbrake rotors as it is with inferior brands. That is because the RB material is made for performance duty.
While a drilled rotor may present a place for a crack to start, it is not implied that a drilled rotor WILL crack. Ebay or other cheap drilled rotors are not the same thing as Racingbrake or OEM quality drilled rotors. Do not lump them all together and say "drilled rotors are prone to cracking." It is not specifically true.
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