Alin10123

Lol...
SO theoretically... there are many of us here who are using mobil 1 that are actually changing our oil too early. But i guess... if they want to go 10,000k, it's a safe distance with mobil1.

Also, among their research also says that dino oil is only supposed to go 5000 miles and that people who care changing every 3000 miles are changing their oil 2000 miles too early.

These guys actually have data to backup their findings with oil analysis every 3000 miles.

Alin10123

And yes, it does make your one oil analysis attempt seem useless. lol
I'm going to assume that you no longer need me to get an oil analysis. lol

jlukja

me too. Still, if you want a sample of my 10K oil you are welcome to it.

Xtremespeed2102

mmm my oil is around 11.5k n its nice n ripe. mmmmm going to be changed on friday. and hopefully getting that friggin cup holder fixed. shes gunna be undertaking alot of work =P

jlukja

This is Mobil 1 5W-30 oil that went into my engine at around 10,500mi. in late May 2005 and came out at around 18800mi. in early June 2006. I was curious about how it held up after 10K miles but I hit the 1 year interval and decided to change it so its seen 8300mi. In that time the TSX has seen about 50% highway, 50% city driving. I've averaged 26.8mpg overall. This is in mostly normal driving with occasional aggessive driving (shifting at redline). I have hondata but but I don't take it past its original 7300rpm redline. I had not had to top off the oil. After the oil was put in the oil level mark on the dipstick read "full" (at the top indicator). Last oil level check before the oil change showed the level at a little less than 1/2 way between the top and bottom indicator.

curls

jlukja: What was the cost of this test? I'd be interested in one at some point, although would prefer one in Canada.

They are full of information, and worth it IMO, if you have uncertainties about the oil, filter, or engine itself.

jlukja

You can find all the information here: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

They send you the test kit for free. The cost of the analysis is $20 plus shipping (around $1.50). They will e-mail you the results in a pdf file and send you a hard copy by snail mail. For those who are n00bs to this (like me) you can find explanations of the results here

feelgood13

whoa, looks like someone popped a Centrum in your engine.

Alin10123

jlukja

Centrum + Mobil 1 = engine

zdr81

thank goodness I read this. I was going to change my oil this weekend and I only have 400 miles (the 500 mile break-in oil change to clean out the factory debris)

zdr81

sorry for my ignorance but what is dino oil? organic? and which brands use it? Is it preferred over synthetic?

So it seems most of you are using either Castrol or Mobil synthetic, right?

mg7726

yes, "dino oil" is the term for regular non-synthetic based oil. preference seems to be a personal choice.

dunno what others use, but i have mobil1 syn on my car.

aaronng

Why is it that AUDM Accord Euros come from the same factory in Japan, have probably the same oil but the first oil change is at 600 miles? A statement in the service booklet says that if we fail to carry out this 600 mile inspection, the warranty may be void.

I'm still puzzled as to why Acura would specify such a long first oil change interval when everywhere else it is 600 miles...

jlukja

aaronng brings up a very good point. You should follow what your manual says. US manual (at least on my 04) recommends first oil change at either 5K or 10K miles, depending on type of useage) whereas the Australian manual recommends the first oil change at 600mi. I, like aaronng, cannot reconcile why there is such a difference but, to be safe, you should follow the factory recommendation for your specific car. If , for some reason, there should ever be a problem with your engine, one of the first things the dealer/service dept. will ask is whether you changed the oil per factory recommendation. I think its the safe way to go.

I think "dino" oil refers to "dinosaur" (organic). Your dealer would use "dino" oil in a regular oil change.

aaronng

Yeah, if in doubt, follow the manual. That way, Acura can't hold anything against you as you had followed their advice and service schedule.

BTW, I use Castrol Edge 5w-30. It's a mineral/dino oil that is modified to protect as good as a synthetic but lasts as long as a regular mineral oil. Look up "hydrocracked synthetic".

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Digging up an old thread to post my oil test report. So, according to the comments by the lab, "Air and filtration appears normal". Who said K&N filter doesn't filter well? Well, I guess the drycharger did help.

Forgot to mention that the engine has been driven hard and normal shifting is between 3500 to 4000 rpm for 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. Redline to 7500 during dyno and test runs.

curls

Hey Johnny...

Just wondering -- was that an oil report from your 2nd batch of oil (after factory fill, this was the next oil in the engine?) ? If so, when did you dump the factory fill?

jlukja

Johnny,
I can't access the pic. Here is what I get:
Can you host the pic elsewhere?

moda_way

I see the pic now

jlukja

I guess forces are conspiring against me.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

It should work now.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

This report is actually from my 3rd batch of oil. The original fill was dumped around 4K miles. I'm interested to compare with other engines that have the original fill for a long time and mild break-in method.

jlukja

I posted my oil analysis several months ago but it wasn't the factory fill.

outersquare

those are my old results, 66K and 70K results were on stock box/filter no resonator.

78K results were on fujita intake/aem dryflow. So k&n seems to do ok when it is properly used, but still slightly more silicon getting in.

That's nice to see that all the other mods have no ill effects.

'06 Arctic

Ok, this is gonna make me feel really stupid, and I'm sure I'll be told to read my manual, but I have looked through it many times, and for my maintence schedule it does not list any mileage intervals for me. No mention of "normal" or "severe" driving. Just says go by the maintenance minder. I have an '06 6MT with alittle over 1700 miles, computer shows oil life as 60%. I guess my only choice is to service it off the maintenance minder then? Can you tell I'm a ? Thanks for the help and all the great info on here. Learning alot about my new babie

oldguytsxer

Been driving for 40 years, yeah I know, ancient guy. In the days of leaded gas, I did first change at 500 miles. 2000 miles after that, the used oil was always jet black. This was the days of ring valve and head jobs, you needed new plugs and points yearly, all caused by leaded gas. Longest I kept a vehicle was 3-4 years, there were a lot more neat choices back then. Nowadays, for the most part, you have "cookie cutter" look-a-like cars.

With unleaded gas, you rarely hear about ring valve and head jobs, 50,000 mile plugs, electronic ignition. I am sure the gas, oil, etc has contributed to this leap forward.

One thing remains constant oil and grease are your cheapest insurance..do not try to save a buck, protect your ride.

I broke my TSX in easy for first few hundred, fluctuating rpms, then very brisk next thousand. Changed factory at 1500 (always paranoid about shavings and who knows) did second change after 3000, now go 4000-5000.
I always have used Castrol, never have had an engine prob in my life.


glta

aaronng

The maintenance schedule is not in the manual, it's in the servicing booklet. But you can just follow the maintenance minder.

jlukja

Here is my latest oil analysis from Blackstone Laboratories



Since I don't put a lot of miles on my TSX I change the oil once a year, or 10,000mi., whichever comes first, based on the "normal" maintenance schedule. This last interval was much shorter than my usual as I took my TSX in for its 30,000 service. So, this time there were less than 5,000 since the last change.

The engine sees redline a couple of times a week, usually when I'm getting on an onramp. The mileage is overall about 60% highway (65-75mph). City driving for the most part is easy, I leave it in automatic mode and the engine usually shifts before it reaches 3000rpm, only occasionally in SS does it see shifts at more than 5000rpm.