i've recently found a paint chip on the front part of my hood. i was wondering if this was tsx common problem and if so how to resolve it or is it under the warranty?
lemme know

 

lots of threads on this. try a search.

 

I have this problem. Of course it was from a rock. But still i have lots of chips and they make me very angry.

I'm having the dealer look at some rust on my trunk: here

and after that i'm going to see if they'll cover my other scratches. we'll see.

 

yep, i have many chips, most notably 3 large ones from rocks falling off a dump truck. :sqnteek:

 

As with most newer cars (except, maybe the the Tupperware Saturn), the paint is applied in a water-based medium and dries brittle so as to be nice to the Snail Darter and the Spotted Owl. I first discovered this with my Volvo. The BMW board is full of complaints about it, too. So I had the 3M stoneshields applied to the particularly vulnerable areas before I drove any distance on the highway. The only permanent solution would be to encase your car completely in the 3M material, which then raises the question...why don't they just use decent paint in the first place???

 

Mr. Bob, any chance you'd be willing to divulge the specific areas you had covered and what the cost was? I'm pretty much thinkin' that the 3M clear bra will be a must if I end up with a TSX (or any Honda for that matter).

 

The 3M clear bra is the way to go in these days times of how our roads are so dirty, but that is just IMHO. The product is incredibly durable, strong and clear. The new generation of film that juts came out is so much nicer and clearer.

Here are a few pics after I installed a kit on this TL. Hard to see from a few feet away.






If anyone has any questions about the product, warranty, how it works or just anything in general. I would be happy to help. chad@rockblocker.com

Chad

 

Chad, does this new generation of film have a specific name/number? In other words, if I go to an installer, is there anything I can specifically ask him to assure that he is using the latest film?

 

I have the 3m material from Invinca-shield http://www.invinca-shield.com/main.htm which asks $98 for the basic kit. I added the mirror pieces. The shop that installed it for me charged 2 hours ... and it definitely took them longer than that.

A lot of the companies that make this stuff deeply discount it. Check around. Ask.

As with everything this depends on how involved you want to get, I've heard of people spending $2k putting it on everything, I just had the most vulnerable areas, the leading edges of the hood and fenders plus the mirrors covered.

Not to go into the trials and tribulations of this, but it's particularly difficult to apply the material to a white car, you definitely want an experienced professional.

 

The new generation is called ScothGuard not ScotchCal anymore, but honestly you shouldnt have to worry. The product has been out for two weeks and I am sure everyone has run out the old stuff. I would be happy to hook you up with a kit if need be then you can get someone to install it.

The basic kit is for hood and fenders right? Pretty good price for the kit. You can find them as low as $70 for the same thing. You are right shop around and do your homework. Style of the kit, design and coverage of the kit, warranty all play a factor in what you are buying and getting for your buck.

Next comes a good installer. The hood and fenders can be tackled by most with patience, but the bumper is a lot harder and should be done my a pro.

Let me know if you have any other questions glad to help.

 

If these things need to be installed by a pro, how would you be able to take them off and put back on every time you want to wax the car? Or do the spots that are covered even need wax? Should a fresh coat be put on before you apply the film?

 

If you're using the x-pel kits, the material needs to be "stretched" into place. The most difficult part is the bumper cause you have lots of curves. If you are new to this, chances are you will make a mistake and end up tossing the whole piece away.

Once installed...you can peel if off, but you won't be able to put it back on. The material is shrivled/wrinkled/deformed and adhesive is wasted.

After installation you normally have to wait about two weeks for it to fully cure.. then you wash and wax like it's not even there. It's basically like a thick piece of clearcoat for your parts of your car.

Before installation, do not wax your car. The least amount of wax/zaino/whatever is better for the adhesive to stick on to. If you allready have wax on there the installer will remove as much of the wax on your car prior to installing.

Hope that helps.

 

Very nice comments there. A couple of more things. All the paint protection kits need to be stretched in most cases. Some companies still make the kits to big, so be careful and test fit each peice before you do something like that.

The cure time is up to 4 weeks depending on time of year and weather conditions. You must wax the product everytime you wax your paint. You want it to look nice like the rest of the car right?

Unless you are a pro and get it down right away having a little wax nonsilicone or teflon base waxed is a good thing. You just have to make sure the edges are cleaned really well with some general adhesive cleaner. The middle areas are not that crictical to get totally sealed right away. The product looks better when cured naturally. The wax helps allow the material to slide across areas like the middle of the hood and bumper areas which is makes for a better and easier install. Many installers use soap for this, but it can leave some white colored bubbles from this. I found using 50-50 water and alcohol with a light coat of wax in the middle makes an easier install.

 

I've noticed a lot of people recommending clear bras in general. I don't have one and never really seriously considered getting one (it's too late anyway, my hood is full of chips), but I heard someone tell me that they are a bad idea. A little bit of water and dirt seeps in gradually and gets trapped underneath each time it rains, snows, etc, and it eventually starts corroding, discolouring, and/or rusting unevenly until it's plainly visible and permanent.

I imagine they might have some kind of warranty against water and junk getting in, kind of like air bubbles under tint. But perhaps it's even the opposite... the part underneath will discolour slower than the unprotected part of the hood. Either way, you could end up with a nasty looking hood.

Any comments? This is all hypothetical for me.

 

Proo,

Let me help with the myths. I have never seen or heard anyone say they are a bad idea or I want my money back in person. I hear these things on the net. If the product is installed correctly and properly sealed then there shouldnt be any issues with dirt or water get in the edges. Of course it is installed with water and alcohol and the product can take up to four weeks for the film to finish curing depending on temperatures and such.

The product will not cause the paint underneath to discolor, corrode or rust.

All companies that produce the pre-cut kit offer a warranty from a couple years to lifetime depending on who they are. I offer a lifetime warranty for cracking, fading and/or yellowing for as long as you own the car.

All installers should stand behind their work and if something lifts it is caused by one of two things. The installer did not get the product adhered and sealed correctly to the surface of the car or somehow some way something (ie wash mitt) cuaght the edge of the film and caused it to break loose.

The product will not cause you paint to fade unevenly as well or cause the paint to look different colors. It has a clear coat finish on the film so you can wax it and should often just like your paint.

I have personally removed the film on cars that are five years and older even black to just see if the paint is different. I even replaced them for free when there was nothing wrong with the product. There was no difference between where it was covered and wasnt. The only thing that I could complain it is that it left a ring around the edge of the product and you could this more when it was wet, but all you have to do is wax these areas and it will be just fine.

In the last 5 years I have never removed a kit because someone thought it was ugly or it had caused harm to the paint. Thanks to 3M for that.

Hopefully this novel helps you out a bit.

Chad