changing brakes... question

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Old 06-13-2008, 07:46 PM
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changing brakes... question

when changing the rear pads and pushing in the pistons on the calipers, do you just push them in or push and twist as well (like on some nissans). and is it clockwise or counterclock wise. just wanna know what tools ill need, thanx.
Old 06-15-2008, 04:41 PM
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you need brake piston turning tool for that.turn the clockwise until the piston all the way back in.remember open bleeder screw before you turn the piston back in.
Old 06-15-2008, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by prelude358
you need brake piston turning tool for that.turn the clockwise until the piston all the way back in.remember open bleeder screw before you turn the piston back in.
Why open the bleeder screw? If you leave it shut, you don't risk getting any air in the line - but make sure there is room in the master cylinder for the displaced fluid.
After replacing the pads you should flush/bleed the system however.
Old 06-15-2008, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by prelude358
you need brake piston turning tool for that.turn the clockwise until the piston all the way back in.remember open bleeder screw before you turn the piston back in.
Yes turn clockwise and push in but you should NOT open the bleeder screw. If you want you can siphon some fluid out of the reservoir but you should not open the bleeder screw unless you have air in the lines and you need to bleed them. Compressing the piston to install pads will just push the fluid back up into the reservoir which is fine.
Old 06-16-2008, 02:49 PM
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Can anyone offer help on removing the caliper bolts. I used my torque wrech and could not get them off even at 100 ft/lbs. I lubed them up with some wd-40 and waited but still could not get them off.
Old 06-16-2008, 03:06 PM
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1) Don't use your torque wrench for removing things. Ever. It used to be a precisely calibrated instrument. Now it's just a ratchet.

2) Get a breaker bar and cheat pipe. A breaker bar is a big heavy duty socket wrench. It's usually pretty long so you can get a lot of leverage on it. If that's still not enough, get a few feet of metal pipe that fits over the handle to make it longer.

3) You can try an impact wrench but unless it's a seriously heavy duty unit, the breaker bar is stronger.

4) Try some PB Blaster. It's the best penetrating oil/rust breaker I've yet found, vastly superior to WD-40. It's at the auto parts store. Put it on and let it set for 20 minutes. Keep it off the pads and rotors.
Old 06-16-2008, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by LukeaTron
1) Don't use your torque wrench for removing things. Ever. It used to be a precisely calibrated instrument. Now it's just a ratchet.

2) Get a breaker bar and cheat pipe. A breaker bar is a big heavy duty socket wrench. It's usually pretty long so you can get a lot of leverage on it. If that's still not enough, get a few feet of metal pipe that fits over the handle to make it longer.

3) You can try an impact wrench but unless it's a seriously heavy duty unit, the breaker bar is stronger.

4) Try some PB Blaster. It's the best penetrating oil/rust breaker I've yet found, vastly superior to WD-40. It's at the auto parts store. Put it on and let it set for 20 minutes. Keep it off the pads and rotors.

thanks for the help. I'll give all that a try.
Old 06-16-2008, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by nbtx
Why open the bleeder screw? If you leave it shut, you don't risk getting any air in the line - but make sure there is room in the master cylinder for the displaced fluid.
After replacing the pads you should flush/bleed the system however.
let me ask you this than.Why would you wanna push dirty fluid back in reservoir??sometime you have problem with ABS cars without open the bleed screw.Trust me!!I have been in mechanic for over 10 years.Do it right or don't even do it.
Old 06-17-2008, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by prelude358
let me ask you this than.Why would you wanna push dirty fluid back in reservoir??sometime you have problem with ABS cars without open the bleed screw.Trust me!!I have been in mechanic for over 10 years.Do it right or don't even do it.
You seem to be making a case for flushing the old fluid before replacing the pads. Is that the procedure in your shop? Does the Acura service manual specify this procedure?
Old 06-17-2008, 11:51 AM
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Plus, the fluid isn't necessarily dirty. One doesn't have to replace the fluid every time the pads are replaced.
Old 06-17-2008, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by nbtx
Why open the bleeder screw? If you leave it shut, you don't risk getting any air in the line - but make sure there is room in the master cylinder for the displaced fluid.
After replacing the pads you should flush/bleed the system however.
You don't need to flush your brake fluid each time you change your brakes. The fluid should be changed every 3 years to maintain the best life out of your calipers, master cylinder and ABS system.
Old 06-18-2008, 08:30 PM
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I didn't mean flushing.What i am saying is good idea open the bleeder screw and push the piston back in.First,brake fluid been inside calipers for period of time form heating.Second,you won't over flood reservoir.A lot people wonder why reservoir so black after brake service.it because a lot people done wrong on this.in this case you will keep reservoir clean.
Old 06-19-2008, 06:33 AM
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If you open your bleeder valve then you have to bleed the brakes. There is absolutely no need to do this and I have yet to have fluid leak out of the reservoir since I keep an eye on it when pushing the piston back. Also the fluid in your caliper probably has less moisture in it than closer to the MC because at the caliper you have a sealed connection, it’s at the MC where moisture gets in. I have our 99 Accord which is 9 years old and have no problem with the MC or pistons seizing. I change my fluid every 2-3 years.
Old 06-19-2008, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by npolite
If you open your bleeder valve then you have to bleed the brakes. There is absolutely no need to do this and I have yet to have fluid leak out of the reservoir since I keep an eye on it when pushing the piston back. Also the fluid in your caliper probably has less moisture in it than closer to the MC because at the caliper you have a sealed connection, it’s at the MC where moisture gets in. I have our 99 Accord which is 9 years old and have no problem with the MC or pistons seizing. I change my fluid every 2-3 years.
I'm not trying to debate anything.I just trying to tell my experience!!Been work on all make and model of cars for passed 10 years and certify.
Let me tell you this:air won't go in the system when you open the bleeder screw.You will know what i mean if you know what is call "Graduate bleed".Remember this air will always go to the high side.That's why bleeder always point to the top let the air out.
Old 06-19-2008, 11:37 PM
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Let me tell you this:air won't go in the system when you open the bleeder screw(except you pump up the paddle).when you push the piston back in is like pushing out the fluid.how will air get in the caliper??You are right one part but not really all.brake fluid are stay pretty good in the brake line but for the over time heat and friction the fluid does turn bad.so why "PUSH THE DIRTY BRAKE FLUID BACK IN THE LINE"??Push the dirty fluid out and top off the new fluid after brake service.
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