changing brakes... question
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Age: 42
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
changing brakes... question
when changing the rear pads and pushing in the pistons on the calipers, do you just push them in or push and twist as well (like on some nissans). and is it clockwise or counterclock wise. just wanna know what tools ill need, thanx.
#2
Intermediate
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vancouver
Age: 46
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you need brake piston turning tool for that.turn the clockwise until the piston all the way back in.remember open bleeder screw before you turn the piston back in.
#3
still plays with cars
Originally Posted by prelude358
you need brake piston turning tool for that.turn the clockwise until the piston all the way back in.remember open bleeder screw before you turn the piston back in.
After replacing the pads you should flush/bleed the system however.
#4
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by prelude358
you need brake piston turning tool for that.turn the clockwise until the piston all the way back in.remember open bleeder screw before you turn the piston back in.
#5
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Age: 44
Posts: 253
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can anyone offer help on removing the caliper bolts. I used my torque wrech and could not get them off even at 100 ft/lbs. I lubed them up with some wd-40 and waited but still could not get them off.
#6
Drifting
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 46
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
1) Don't use your torque wrench for removing things. Ever. It used to be a precisely calibrated instrument. Now it's just a ratchet.
2) Get a breaker bar and cheat pipe. A breaker bar is a big heavy duty socket wrench. It's usually pretty long so you can get a lot of leverage on it. If that's still not enough, get a few feet of metal pipe that fits over the handle to make it longer.
3) You can try an impact wrench but unless it's a seriously heavy duty unit, the breaker bar is stronger.
4) Try some PB Blaster. It's the best penetrating oil/rust breaker I've yet found, vastly superior to WD-40. It's at the auto parts store. Put it on and let it set for 20 minutes. Keep it off the pads and rotors.
2) Get a breaker bar and cheat pipe. A breaker bar is a big heavy duty socket wrench. It's usually pretty long so you can get a lot of leverage on it. If that's still not enough, get a few feet of metal pipe that fits over the handle to make it longer.
3) You can try an impact wrench but unless it's a seriously heavy duty unit, the breaker bar is stronger.
4) Try some PB Blaster. It's the best penetrating oil/rust breaker I've yet found, vastly superior to WD-40. It's at the auto parts store. Put it on and let it set for 20 minutes. Keep it off the pads and rotors.
#7
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Woodbridge, VA
Age: 44
Posts: 253
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by LukeaTron
1) Don't use your torque wrench for removing things. Ever. It used to be a precisely calibrated instrument. Now it's just a ratchet.
2) Get a breaker bar and cheat pipe. A breaker bar is a big heavy duty socket wrench. It's usually pretty long so you can get a lot of leverage on it. If that's still not enough, get a few feet of metal pipe that fits over the handle to make it longer.
3) You can try an impact wrench but unless it's a seriously heavy duty unit, the breaker bar is stronger.
4) Try some PB Blaster. It's the best penetrating oil/rust breaker I've yet found, vastly superior to WD-40. It's at the auto parts store. Put it on and let it set for 20 minutes. Keep it off the pads and rotors.
2) Get a breaker bar and cheat pipe. A breaker bar is a big heavy duty socket wrench. It's usually pretty long so you can get a lot of leverage on it. If that's still not enough, get a few feet of metal pipe that fits over the handle to make it longer.
3) You can try an impact wrench but unless it's a seriously heavy duty unit, the breaker bar is stronger.
4) Try some PB Blaster. It's the best penetrating oil/rust breaker I've yet found, vastly superior to WD-40. It's at the auto parts store. Put it on and let it set for 20 minutes. Keep it off the pads and rotors.
thanks for the help. I'll give all that a try.
Trending Topics
#8
Intermediate
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vancouver
Age: 46
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by nbtx
Why open the bleeder screw? If you leave it shut, you don't risk getting any air in the line - but make sure there is room in the master cylinder for the displaced fluid.
After replacing the pads you should flush/bleed the system however.
After replacing the pads you should flush/bleed the system however.
#9
still plays with cars
Originally Posted by prelude358
let me ask you this than.Why would you wanna push dirty fluid back in reservoir??sometime you have problem with ABS cars without open the bleed screw.Trust me!!I have been in mechanic for over 10 years.Do it right or don't even do it.
#11
Pro
Originally Posted by nbtx
Why open the bleeder screw? If you leave it shut, you don't risk getting any air in the line - but make sure there is room in the master cylinder for the displaced fluid.
After replacing the pads you should flush/bleed the system however.
After replacing the pads you should flush/bleed the system however.
#12
Intermediate
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vancouver
Age: 46
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I didn't mean flushing.What i am saying is good idea open the bleeder screw and push the piston back in.First,brake fluid been inside calipers for period of time form heating.Second,you won't over flood reservoir.A lot people wonder why reservoir so black after brake service.it because a lot people done wrong on this.in this case you will keep reservoir clean.
#13
Pro
If you open your bleeder valve then you have to bleed the brakes. There is absolutely no need to do this and I have yet to have fluid leak out of the reservoir since I keep an eye on it when pushing the piston back. Also the fluid in your caliper probably has less moisture in it than closer to the MC because at the caliper you have a sealed connection, it’s at the MC where moisture gets in. I have our 99 Accord which is 9 years old and have no problem with the MC or pistons seizing. I change my fluid every 2-3 years.
#14
Intermediate
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vancouver
Age: 46
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by npolite
If you open your bleeder valve then you have to bleed the brakes. There is absolutely no need to do this and I have yet to have fluid leak out of the reservoir since I keep an eye on it when pushing the piston back. Also the fluid in your caliper probably has less moisture in it than closer to the MC because at the caliper you have a sealed connection, it’s at the MC where moisture gets in. I have our 99 Accord which is 9 years old and have no problem with the MC or pistons seizing. I change my fluid every 2-3 years.
Let me tell you this:air won't go in the system when you open the bleeder screw.You will know what i mean if you know what is call "Graduate bleed".Remember this air will always go to the high side.That's why bleeder always point to the top let the air out.
#15
Intermediate
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vancouver
Age: 46
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Let me tell you this:air won't go in the system when you open the bleeder screw(except you pump up the paddle).when you push the piston back in is like pushing out the fluid.how will air get in the caliper??You are right one part but not really all.brake fluid are stay pretty good in the brake line but for the over time heat and friction the fluid does turn bad.so why "PUSH THE DIRTY BRAKE FLUID BACK IN THE LINE"??Push the dirty fluid out and top off the new fluid after brake service.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post