Brake fluid & MTF replacement question.
#1
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Brake fluid & MTF replacement question.
Hey guys i have 40k miles on my 05 tsx (manual) and i wanted to replace the fluids, how many bottles, quarts or w/e will it take to replace (bleed the brakes) the brake fluid and the same question about the manual transition fluid?
Any good links to buy them from, or is a local acura dealers prices comparable with online.
thanks.
Any good links to buy them from, or is a local acura dealers prices comparable with online.
thanks.
#2
Originally Posted by rabican
Hey guys i have 40k miles on my 05 tsx (manual) and i wanted to replace the fluids, how many bottles, quarts or w/e will it take to replace (bleed the brakes) the brake fluid and the same question about the manual transition fluid?
Any good links to buy them from, or is a local acura dealers prices comparable with online.
thanks.
Any good links to buy them from, or is a local acura dealers prices comparable with online.
thanks.
#4
Originally Posted by afici0nad0
^
you did you complete mtf flush?
i did a mtf drain and refill, and it totaled to a little more than 2 bottles.
you did you complete mtf flush?
i did a mtf drain and refill, and it totaled to a little more than 2 bottles.
#6
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That's for the AT. You can't fully drain it without taking it apart so you drain all that you can which works out to be something like half the fluid. Then you drive it for a bit and repeat that twice more. The idea is that you're diluting the dirty fluid with clean fluid and then taking out half the dirty fluid. After three flushes, you've got about 12.5% dirty fluid diluted in 87.5% clean fluid (assuming you drain 50% of the total volume each time).
With the MT, this is not needed as nearly all the oil can be drained in one go. Just get the car good and warmed up by driving it and then when you drain the fluid, let it sit and drain for a good long while. The last 5% will take twice as long to drain as the first 95% because it just trickles out.
By the way, lots of people claim the GM synchromesh MT fluid makes the already butter smooth transmission even smoother. I intend to switch to that at some point this summer but I haven't found the time yet.
With the MT, this is not needed as nearly all the oil can be drained in one go. Just get the car good and warmed up by driving it and then when you drain the fluid, let it sit and drain for a good long while. The last 5% will take twice as long to drain as the first 95% because it just trickles out.
By the way, lots of people claim the GM synchromesh MT fluid makes the already butter smooth transmission even smoother. I intend to switch to that at some point this summer but I haven't found the time yet.
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#8
Team Owner
Originally Posted by LukeaTron
That's for the AT. You can't fully drain it without taking it apart so you drain all that you can which works out to be something like half the fluid. Then you drive it for a bit and repeat that twice more. The idea is that you're diluting the dirty fluid with clean fluid and then taking out half the dirty fluid. After three flushes, you've got about 12.5% dirty fluid diluted in 87.5% clean fluid (assuming you drain 50% of the total volume each time).
...
...
#10
Team Owner
Originally Posted by dBski11
wats a good MT fluid recommendation??
edit: Luke is fast.
#11
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...i read on another forum that redline is good but then others say its too slippery for our cars, and the gm stuff is similar...does it really make a big difference/is it better for the car?
thanks.
thanks.
#12
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Well there have been no real problems reported with these transmissions either way so which is better for the transmission is a moot point. I have also seen the Red Line recommended but it seems most who have used both prefer the GM stuff. It's mostly a transmission feel thing. The GM/Red Line MT juice is supposed to make the slide between gears even more effortless. Both these products have friction modifiers added that help the synchronizers work better. That said, the "too slippery" issue would seem to be anything but.
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...so I need 3 bottles of GM FM MT fluid, GM part #12377916 (www.gmpartshouse.com)
and
2 bottles of Honda dot4 brake fluid. (Honda dealer)
Thanks!
and
2 bottles of Honda dot4 brake fluid. (Honda dealer)
Thanks!
#15
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Any quality DOT 4 (and DOT 5? It will say on the reservoir cap) will work. There's nothing special in the Honda stuff. Power steering fluid on the other hand, you have to use the Honda sutff or something that is specifically made to be "Honda compatible". IIRC the difference is the lack of a certain ingredient that damages the material Honda uses for the seals.
#17
still plays with cars
Originally Posted by LukeaTron
Any quality DOT 4 (and DOT 5? It will say on the reservoir cap) will work. .
#19
Originally Posted by LukeaTron
By the way, lots of people claim the GM synchromesh MT fluid makes the already butter smooth transmission even smoother. I intend to switch to that at some point this summer but I haven't found the time yet.
i'll have to wait for another 30000kms before trying this out, as i just completed a drain/refill with oem honda mtf.
#21
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Originally Posted by afici0nad0
this has been the impression i get too when reading about gm synchromesh reviews for honda mt's.
i'll have to wait for another 30000kms before trying this out, as i just completed a drain/refill with oem honda mtf.
i'll have to wait for another 30000kms before trying this out, as i just completed a drain/refill with oem honda mtf.
#23
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I use Motul RBF 600 brake fluid, it's a little more $ than Honda DOT3 and works much better for the occasional track day. For MTF, I use Amsoil's Synchromesh but I think the Honda/Acura MTF is excellent, too.
Just to reiterate: NO DOT 5 in our systems.
Just to reiterate: NO DOT 5 in our systems.
#25
Originally Posted by peter_bigblock
I use Motul RBF 600 brake fluid, it's a little more $ than Honda DOT3 and works much better for the occasional track day. For MTF, I use Amsoil's Synchromesh but I think the Honda/Acura MTF is excellent, too.
Just to reiterate: NO DOT 5 in our systems.
Just to reiterate: NO DOT 5 in our systems.
#26
still plays with cars
Originally Posted by ThirdLane
Unless you do a complete braking system flush. Mixing DOT 3/4 with DOT 5 will lead to brake system failure as the mixture will turn into a gelatin like goop. IMO DOT 5 has only one advantage, its not hygroscopic. But as previous poster said do not use DOT 5 unless you're willing to completely flush the system and dissamble your braking system
PLEASE folks, use ONLY DOT 3 or 4 if you value your wallet and life. Your wallet because an ABS controller replacement is going to be expensive. and your life because a catastrophic brake failure could be very ugly.
One other thing: DOT 5 is not hygroscopic but it IS compressible so you lose your nice firm brake pedal. A personal aside: Early disc brake Corvettes began having caliper leakage problems after ten years of use. The fix was to replace the worn factory calipers with stainless steel sleeved rebuilt ones. DOT 5 (silicone) fluid was the recommended fluid at the time. So when my 67 Corvette needed new calipers I went with the procedure of the day. Bad mistake ! The brake pedal feel went in the dumper and it took forever to get the little bubbles out of the fluid from pouring it out of the can. As it turned out, the DOT 5 did not destroy the system seals of the 1970s, but you can't guarantee it will be compatible with the Honda systems of the 2000s.
#27
boost owns
Anyone have a link to a good DIY for MTF flush/refill on our car? I'm at almost 46k on my 6MT and am noticing increased notchiness on my shifts (Comptech shortshifter, metal bushings all around, Maven shift knob - this thing used to be BUTTER). I want to do the job but haven't done it before and am curious.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#28
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Oops, sorry about the DOT 5 thing. I was thinking that 4 and 5 were the two that are compatible instead of 3 and 4 (which are generally). Brain fart on my part.
I'm not exactly sure what the difference between 3 and 4 is but I've noticed that some systems can take both while others can only use 4.
I'm not exactly sure what the difference between 3 and 4 is but I've noticed that some systems can take both while others can only use 4.
#29
Originally Posted by LukeaTron
I'm not exactly sure what the difference between 3 and 4 is but I've noticed that some systems can take both while others can only use 4.
#30
Originally Posted by The Dougler
FYI, there's only like 3 GM dealers in the GTA that carry GMSMFM fluid. I got mine from the one at steeles and woodbine in markham. And they knew right away it was for a Honda as soon as I asked. The part number is different too and it's labeled AC Delco, but if you peel off the label it has the old one behind it.
curious, how did the dealer know it was for a honda when you asked?
what are your thoughts on the gm mtf? much better than oem?
#31
Originally Posted by Audioserf
Anyone have a link to a good DIY for MTF flush/refill on our car? I'm at almost 46k on my 6MT and am noticing increased notchiness on my shifts (Comptech shortshifter, metal bushings all around, Maven shift knob - this thing used to be BUTTER). I want to do the job but haven't done it before and am curious.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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