Acucurean

So I've modded up my 08' TSX significantly, which as most of you know is troublesome compared to the 06' and earlier models (I previously owned an 04' TSX that I purchased in 03' which was easy to mod). I'd like to post my results on the 08', but I just joined the forum and I'm pretty restricted by the "5 posts and 15 day" rule of the forum.

I've read the forum as a guest quite a bit and I'm familiar with most of the complaints and questions about the 08' TSX. I've engineered my way through many of the issues and would like to share... Since the 08' (and I believe the 07') are somewhat unique with regards to engine management and modification, I believe there should be a separate thread solely for dealing with the issues in modding these cars.

Any interest in getting this thread going??? I'd love to be able to post some pics and impressions and experiences with the engine mods. I'd also like to get some feedback on other peoples experience with modding the 08' TSX.

I've been working on some of the Navi hacks for the 08' as well. I'm creating some wrappers for the earlier hacks that will allow them to be usable with the 08'. I'd like to be able to post them here as well. (I've already got the splash screen hack working).

I hope this goes somewhere, I was pretty frustrated when I saw that as soon as I joined I can't upload any pics, or setup my profile image etc.

pally777

Sounds like a good idea. I have an 08' as well, but no engine mods. Only suspension, rims + tires.

Pson

Yes, Please for everything I read seems to have the 07, but lists all mods for the 06 model. Due to the ECU being tied down in the 07 and 08 models...I wonder if anything done to the ECU (reflash) or cams, value ssprings..etc will really yeild much gain compared to the price to install the mods.

Acucurean

The mods that I have completed to date (in this order) are:
1.) Comptech Ice-box cold air intake
2.) DC-Sport Exhaust Headers
3.) Exedy Stage-1 clutch
4.) ACT Streetlite Flywheel
5.) Navi Splash Screen Hack
6.) K-Tuned wiring harness with K-pro engine management
7.) Comptech Supercharger

Once I have full permissions I'll post detailed information with respect to each mod. I'll provide details about my impressions of each mod, issues/difficulties that I ran into, cost/value, etc.

I will say that this car is fast now, and it feels as though Acura should have created the car this way stock. The overall character of the car has not changed... it's still smooth as ever, just fast when I want it to be.

Next I will be upgrading the brakes since Supercharging has caused the rotors to warp (it happened on the first day).

personinma

sooooo jelly. approximately how much money did you put in for all the mods?

pbwillz

i feel you on this one. this could be an informative thread for the 07s-08s

Acucurean

I haven't tallied up the total cost yet, but I've saved the paper work so when I get a chance I'll add the cost of each mod. My rough gut feel is that it cost me around $5.5 to $6K. One nice unexpected discount was that when you do the engine management with the K-tuned harness and K-pro, it cuts about $900 off the price of the supercharger kit. A few electronic components are not required, and you don't have to pay for the reflash. This reduced the overall hit from having to manage with the K-tuned/K-pro option.

Acucurean

As mentioned at the beginning of my post, I will post details, impressions etc. of each mod that I've done. I hope this helps those of you who are looking for info like I was prior to "biting the bullet" on doing this particular modification...

Mod 1: Comptech Cold Air Intake
Cost: $169.00
Synopsis:
(1) - Modest gains through mid and VTEC RPM ranges
(2) - Noticeable gas mileage improvement (I noticed about 1.8 to 2.2 mpg improvement)
(3) - Not too noisy, but you will definitely know it is there
(4) - Suggest the bumper removal install rather than the wheel well shortcut. Removing the bumper is not as hard as it sounds and will save a lot of time. Also, there are 4 different types of clips/fasteners that hold the bumpers on (3 that remove from the bumper). I found it helpful to bring 3 zip-lock bags and place each type of fastener into a designated bag for that type
(5) - Requires a trip to the hardware store to get slightly longer bolts to hold the Icebox lid onto the stock filter box
(6) - Easy to maintain, and a worthwhile install if you plan to do any other performance modifications
Installation: I installed the CAI myself using the provided instructions combined with various posts on this site. The instructions provided with the CAI provide a method that loosely describes disassembly of the front bumper. I had read this post:
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tsx-performance-parts-modifications-126/comptech-icebox-install-tips-more-679497/
that suggests that you go through the wheel well as a short-cut to avoid bumper disassembly. Knox refers to the “bitch bolt”, which is definitely extremely difficult to work with from this position. You are absolutely working blind on this bolt. I gave up and decided to just follow the provided instructions.
So, removing the front bumper turned out to be way easier than I thought, and after attempting the wheel well method, I would suggest to go straight for the bumper removal method. There are 4 types of fasteners holding the front bumper on (2 types of clips, some hooks on the bumper, and some bolts). Before you receive your CT-CAI, I would recommend going to the local Acura dealer and just ask if they have a few extra of both of the types of clips. My dealer gave me some (post install) for free. I inevitably destroyed the first two clips that I tried to remove. I didn’t understand the mechanism behind them, so when I tried to pry them out, I became frustrated and brute forced them a bit. After the first clips came out, and I understood how they worked, I was able to ease the rest out without damage. The best way that I can describe the method for removing the clips is to pry up on the middle circle (which is like the head of a nail) with gentle force from both sides (start on one side, then switch to the other, then back and forth to work the clip out), meanwhile use your thumb and index finger to hold the part of the clip that does not have pry-out slots (the outer rim) against the surface that it is clipped into. If you destroy some of the clips along the way, just get some replacements from the dealer.
The most difficult part of the install was removing the factory resonator. This thing is huge. It is bigger than a 1gallon milk jug and oddly shaped. I ended up pulling it through the wheel well. I had to really move it and angle it to get it out of there. When I finally got the thing removed, I remember feeling such disappointment in the Acura Engineers for wasting so much space and effort to only stifle the car and make a little quieter. It also was clear to me how much more efficient the air flow to the engine would be by the CT-CAI install.
I skipped one step which I felt was unnecessary and not worthwhile. The install instructions call to remove the original resonator intake. But when I felt around for where the bolts were, I had flash backs of the “Bitch bolt” in Knox’s post. Since it was only about a 5 inch tube of plastic that is no longer related to the intake system in anyway, I decided that not removing it would be worthwhile compared to driving around with a vestigial 5 inch plastic tube.
The rest of the install went according to the instructions except that I ran into the same problem that Knox did in his post where the CT-CAI Icebox screw nipples prevented the factory bolts from making a good snug fit. I think the problem is that they are too long. The factory bolts are not able to thread into the nuts that are embedded in the base. I ended up going to the local hardware store and purchased 4 bolts that were a few millimeters longer than the stock bolts and I am now able to securely thread the Icebox lid onto the factory base with no leaks and minimal effort. (I would suggest that prior to receipt of your Icebox, you take out one of the bolts from the factory air intake, and measure the threading and length, then go to your hardware store and get 4 bolts with the same threading, but a few millimeters longer).
The rest of the install went fine.
Initial Impressions: When I first drove the car with the CT-CAI installed, I didn’t notice too much difference from stock other than the increased noise when hitting the throttle hard. However when I got to the highway where I could really put my foot to the floor and play around with it a bit, I did notice some modest gains in the midrange from around 2500 to 4000 RPMs, and again through VTEC around 6100 RPMs to redline at roughly 7300 RPMs. Overall it seems as though it gives mild improvements in the areas of the horsepower and torque curves where the car normally performs best.
Also, I’ve found that with every modification that I do to the car (until I started managing the engine), it takes about 10 to 15 miles of driving around for the factory ECU to modify its functionality to adjust to the changed input from the sensors. So I would wait to make any judgments until you’ve driven around on and off for a day or so.
As a secondary benefit of the install, I noticed improved gas mileage by roughly 2 miles per gallon. This was a bit of a surprise to me, but I guess it makes sense since the air-fuel mixture is likely more rich than before. It’s a shame that Acura chose to try to keep the car so quiet over the gains of the CAI.
Overall though, I was more impressed with the gas mileage improvement then the performance gains. However, I would suggest doing this mod as your first mod, since any future engine performance mods will benefit from allowing the car to breathe better.
Maintenance: I clean the filter using the “UNI Foam Filter Cleaning Kit” suggested on the CT-Engineering website about 4 times a year. It will vary depending on the environmental and road conditions where you live. I went through the entire winter in Colorado and didn’t clean it; then this spring I opened up the Icebox expecting to see an awful mess but was surprised to see a relatively clean filter.
Key Issues:
(1) - There is one bolt that is difficult to locate/remove if you try to do the wheel well shortcut
(2) - The factory resonator is difficult to remove
(3) - The original intake tube is difficult to access and remove, and IMHP not worthwhile to remove
(4) - The screw nipples on the Icebox cover are too long and either need to be ground down, or require the purchase of slightly longer bolts
(5) - If you’ve never removed your bumper, you will likely destroy a few of the clips (which are easily replaceable)
(6) - CT-Engineering is a bit slow on filling orders despite what their website says regarding stock. I would suggest that after you place your order, if it doesn’t arrive in a timely manner; call them frequently to ask for status on your order. I’ve found this with every product that I’ve purchased from them.

Usualsuspect1026

Can you please keep this coming.

Acucurean

Mod 2: DC Sport Headers

Previous Mods: CT-CAI

Cost: $320.00 (parts) + $45 (additional labor)

Synopsis:
(1) - Noticeable gains throughout RPM range, and especially during VTEC
(2) - Noticeable gas mileage improvement (I noticed about 2.3 to 2.5 mpg improvement)
(3) - Sonically, the DC-headers have a noticeable “hiss” when putting your foot to the floor. I thought this might be a leak but I believe it to be a normal sound of these headers.
(4) - Install was moderately difficult without a lift and/or air-tools. The nuts on the stock headers that are close to the engine require a lot of torque to get loose
(5) - The first notable modification to the TSX that I’ve done. After installing the DC-headers I noticed a remarkable improvement in performance of the 08’ TSX
(6) - Note: Even though most websites post these headers for the 03’ (or 04’) through the 06’, they perfectly mate to the 08’ engine (I had pre-order confirmation from DC technician).
(7) - Note: If you purchase these headers, ensure that you are getting version 2 with corrected flex pipe, as I have seen many posts of problems with version 1

Installation: I mostly installed the DC Sport Headers myself. The install goes mostly as described in the forum post on the DC sport headers described here:

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tsx-performance-parts-modifications-126/dc-sports-header-installed-dyno-result-649675/

And, also elsewhere online here:

http://www.vtec.net/articles/view-ar...icle_id=348704

I ran into issues with the center nut on the bottom side of the headers. I do not own a lift, nor do I own a decent set of compressed air tools. The description in JTso’s article where he utilizes the wrench-on-wrench action was a no-go for me. I tried and tried to get enough torque, but with my car on ramps, and me wedged underneath with my limited set of tools, I could not get this nut to budge. After numerous failed attempts, I began to cause damage to the nut so I decided to seek the help of my trusty local Honda/Acura sport tuner shop. They charged me $45 to finish the install. Well worth the humbling experience of admitting that I couldn’t do it myself.

Afterwords, my shop told me that installing the headers from scratch would have cost me $90, so in hindsight, I would have taken it to them from the get-go. I spent a good 2-hours and some mental stress trying to get the center nut to loosen, but was unsuccessful. If you decide to install these headers yourself, I’d suggest that you have a nice compressed air toolkit to do the job correctly…

Initial Impressions: When I first took the car out I was in busy traffic so I couldn’t hammer on the gas to really test the install out. However, I did notice a bad smell like burning chemicals or burning plastic. I also noticed a hiss. Many people online had mentioned a hiss caused by cracks in the flex pipe in version 1 of the DC headers, so I got a bit nervous. After driving around for a few weeks, I brought it back to the shop and they tightened up the mating connection to the stock exhaust a bit to ensure that there were no leaks. I still smelt the toxic burning smell for another week or so, and then it eventually disappeared. I’m still not sure to this day if it was factory chemical treatment burning off, or the ring gaskets settling in, but it has finally gone away.

All of that being said the DC Sport Headers are excellent performance wise! Don’t expect miracles, like when you get into a car with forced induction, but do expect noticeable gains. You will especially notice a kick at around 6.1K+ RPMs when VTEC kicks in and throughout until redline.

After I installed these headers I found myself eagerly desiring the VTEC RPM range, and I found myself going to the VTEC range as often as possible (which is somewhat frustrating since stock VTEC is set so high on the TSX).

With this modification I was finally able to compete a bit on the highway when challenged. My friend challenged me in a 2003 M3 Roadster and I won. This was due to the length of highway combined with the new found VTEC performance. Off the line he was way ahead of me due to the TSXs’ lack of low-end torque. However, I found that he always had to shift earlier than me, and while he was busy shifting; I was entering VTEC with serious increases in torque and power. By the end of 3rd gear I was about 20 yards ahead of him, and by 4th, about 100 yards ahead. I was astonished the first time I beat him, and I thought he let me win. But a second race proved the new increased performance when I beat him in similar fashion.

Maintenance: The mechanism that binds these headers to the stock exhaust system is somewhat crude. It is a cast ring that might not necessarily be a perfect mate to the stock exhaust. I went back after a few weeks to have the mate to the stock exhaust tightened because I heard hissing and smelled what I believed to be unfiltered exhaust.

I can’t confirm that there was any issue since the smell discontinued after a few weeks, while the hiss continues to this day. I do believe that the hiss is simply an artifact of the physical design of the headers (narrower tubing in a 4-2-1 design as opposed to the ill-defined and clumsy stock 4-1 design with a bell collector). I have since been under the car while it is being throttled, and I don’t see or smell any leaks.

Key Issues:
(1) - The center nut on the stock headers is very difficult to remove. I ended up taking it to a garage to have the job finished. Probably not an issue if you have a lift and adequate air tools.
(2) - The headers emit a burning smell for several weeks after installation. Uncertain if this smell is leaking exhausts due to poor gasket seal or if it is just factory chemical coating burning. The smell went away after about 3-4 weeks of use.

NOTE: There are a lot of posts online about the inadequately designed flex-pipe on these headers. I spoke with a rep at DC-Sports and he explained that the problem has in fact been corrected in version 2 of the headers (which is what I purchased). If you search around online, you can find a comparison of version 1 vs. version 2 and you will see the difference. Before you order these, make sure that you are getting version 2.

pally777

Great write ups! Please keep them coming if you have more mods. I'm considering pulleys for my 08'. Have you considered adding those?

Acucurean

Thanks, I'll keep posting these write-ups. I'm glad that they're helpful.

I did consider pulleys, but after researching them it turns out that they are not recommended for cars that have superchargers. Since my main goal was to supercharge (which I have since accomplished), I decided not to go with the pulleys. I'm not entirely sure why the manufacturers recommend not installing pulleys with a supercharger. My best guess is that either the lighter materials aren't spec'd out for the higher torques involved with supercharging, or possibly since supercharging requires engine management, perhaps the "knife-edge" of proper electrical operation can not guarantee the performance needs of the electrical system required for boosted engines. Just a guess though. They were definitely on my radar for a while, but since I was able to work my way through the issues with supercharging the 08', the pulleys are in the wind.

The next write-up will describe the stage-1 racing clutch and sport-lite flywheel.

JTYankFan

iTrader: (3)

I'm about to pick up an 08 6spd. Can you tell me what is so troublesome about modding this car? PM is fine.

buddylie

Awesome thread, keep it up! I'd love to see how you got thru the engine management issues

Acucurean

Mod 3: Exedy Stage-1 Racing Clutch & ATC Sport-lite Flywheel

Previous Mods: CT-CAI, DC Sport Headers

Cost: $500 parts, $900 labor

Synopsis:
(1) - RPMs rise much quicker than stock, especially at low RPMs and at VTEC
(2) - The car no longer feels “sluggish” off the line
(3) - Gas mileage efficiency decreased by about 1.75 – 2 MPG
(4) - Clutch bites really well, even after supercharging
(5) - Clutch engagement point changed to a more aggressive profile (closer to the floor, and less range of movement for engagement)
(6) - Clutch pedal stiffness increased ever-so-slightly

Installation: This clutch install was a replacement for a failing stock clutch. I could tell for several weeks that the stock clutch was failing, so I did have some time to do some research. Ultimately I ended up driving around (very gently) on the failing clutch for about 1 month.

During this time period I requested a quote from my Acura dealer for parts and labor on a replacement of the stock clutch. I also requested a quote on installation charges for the Exedy clutch, and ATC flywheel from my sport tuner shop. The Acura dealer quoted me $1400 labor and $1200 for parts, a total of $2600 just to try and get it back to stock! (ALSO: See notes at the end of this posting). The tuner shop quoted me $900 for the install of the clutch and flywheel combo. From the research that I did, the Exedy clutch and ATC flywheel combo seemed as though it would be an improvement over stock, and the total parts and labor for the install amounted to $500 parts, and $900 labor; $1400 for a combo that promised performance gains over the $2600 stock solution. It was a no-brainer.

I can’t say much about the actual installation myself other than what I gleaned from the guys who did the install.

1.) When I asked the guy at the tuner shop for a quote, he looked at his estimate algorithm on the computer and was reluctant to tell me what it would cost. He told me it would be about $900, and I was relieved! Keep in mind this was after having been given a $2600 quote from the dealer. The quote also included the labor for the flywheel installation; the Acura dealer was only quoting the clutch.

2.) The installer’s didn’t charge me much for the flywheel install. They said that the whole thing had to be pulled apart anyway to get to the clutch, so installing the flywheel at the same time was a worthwhile venture.

Initial Impressions: When I got in the car, I really didn’t expect much in the way of gains, I was just hoping to be able to hit the pedal hard again. As I drove the several miles to the highway entrance, the first thing that I noticed was that the clutch engagement point was much closer to the floor than before.

It moved from about 4-5 inches off the floor stock, to about 2-3 inches off the floor. Also, I noticed that the range of engagement had shrunk from about 2 inches to less than 1. I spent most of the time on my way to the highway trying to get used to the location of the new engagement point, and trying to get used to easing through the small engagement range. The stiffness of the pedal did increase, but only ever so slightly. Based on the research that I had done, people were reporting uncomfortable/undesirable stiffness in the clutch after the install… I didn’t feel that one bit?

When I got to the highway, I hit it hard, and I was shocked at the quickness of the RPMs as they climbed to VTEC, and then redline. When I shifted from first to second, the bite of the new clutch was impeccable. Translation of power from the crank to the wheels was impressive and nearly instantaneous. For the first time since I first owned the TSX, I noticed that I could chirp the tires in first and second gear. I noticed the most gains from the 1K-4K RPM range. It climbs through those RPMs with ease, and the engine feels like it has been freed from a heavy burden. Again, when it reaches VTEC, around 6.1K it climbs even quicker.

One thing that I always hated about the TSX was that it felt heavy and sluggish when launching in first gear, and in the low RPM ranges. I had always assumed that Honda/Acura had failed to adequately calculate the power of the engine that is required to be married to the heavy TSX body in order for it to be able to pull hard. After driving around in the TSX for a week with this install I realized why Acura did this sluggish design. With the lighter fly-wheel installed, my fuel economy dropped by about 2mpg. My guess is that the push within the automotive industry for better fuel economy, combined with the desire to target the luxury “smoother-ride” market, drove the Acura/Honda engineers to design in the heavier stock flywheel. The point of the flywheel is to store energy between shifts and during highway driving so that the engine does not have to exert as much power to keep the vehicle in motion (less acceleration/deceleration). I prefer the sportier feel of the lighter flywheel than the sluggish “smoother-ride”. That being said, combining the fuel efficiency gains that I saw with the DC-headers and the CT-CAI, this clutch and flywheel combo simply canceled out the fuel gains, but added superior performance.

If I were to suggest any combo of modifications that offer the best gain for the buck with the least risk, I would suggest the combo of the DC headers, CT-CAI, Exedy stage-1 clutch, and the ATC flywheel. I drove the car around like this for about a year prior to supercharging it, and I have to say that the car performed well, and was a lot of fun to drive with only those mods.

One final impression; I have since supercharged the engine, and the stage-1 clutch appears to be sufficient for the added stress and power gained by the supercharger, I’ve been supercharged for about 4 months and have noticed no degradation in performance when shifting.

Maintenance: After a year and several months, I have seen no maintenance issues with the install. It is spot-on.

Key Issues:
(1) - After the install, gas mileage efficiency dropped by about 2mpg. This is likely attributed to the light weight flywheel. If you’re willing to take that hit, the performance gains are significant.

Note:
My Acura dealer knows me pretty well, and they also know that I modify the car. After they provided me with the $2600 quote for the clutch install, they suggested to me that I should look into an aftermarket clutch and a third-party installer. The technician told me that the TSX clutch wasn’t made for driving hard, and it certainly wasn’t made to handle modifications. He said that if I replaced it with a stock clutch, I would probably be back to replace it again in 30K-50K miles.

After feeling the difference between stock and the stage-1 clutch, I would highly recommend that if you plan to modify your TSX, that you make plans to replace the clutch with something that can handle the increased power and torque.

Note:
If you go in for a clutch replacement, so long as you’re willing to take the mpg hit, I would suggest that you replace the flywheel with a lighter weight one at the same time. You’ll save yourself a lot of labor expenses over doing it in 2 separate installations since the clutch and flywheel are collocated.

Acucurean

If you are planning on doing mostly low yield mods like, CAI, headers, cat-back, etc. Modding won't be an issue for you. Almost all after market parts for the 03'(04') - 06' will have exact form, fit and function on the 08'. It only becomes an issue if you want to do something drastic like forced induction. This is due to the requirement of engine management, and the drive-by-wire throttle system. Also note, that the popular Hondata reflash that get's rid of the power droop around 5.3K RPMs, just prior to VTEC is not available for 07' or 08' (for the same reason).

I believe that the 07' was the first year of the TSX to have the drive-by-wire throttle system. This added complexity seems to have perplexed Hondata (the main distributor of engine management solutions for the TSX).

I previously owned an (03')04' TSX, and modding it was easy, and aftermarket management was readily available. I purchased the 08' thinking I would be able to do even more... But after 2 years when I jumped into modding it, I found that there was barely any aftermarket engine management available. Every time I would ask someone in the industry when Hondata would provide engine-management, they would say something to the affect of "Just wait, they're working on the drive-by-wire issue".

I'm pretty certain that this is why when you do a search for aftermarket parts for the 08' TSX, all you find is parts dated 04'-06'. However, for each mod that I've done to the 08' (with the exception of engine management), the manufacturers have always guaranteed form, fit and function of their 04'-06' mod to the 08'.

So... it's 2011, and Hondata still does not provide a direct engine management solution for the 08' TSX. However, I "bit the bullet" so to speak, on some technology that ended up working out really well. (I plan to do a similar write-up on it... soon to follow). The shop that I get my complex mods done at (as well as a very nervous me) were very skeptical. But after seeing my results, 2 guys there have since decided to try the same path that I went down.

Overall, now that I have a modded up and supercharged 08' TSX, I am really happy with the car. It took a little bit of a gamble to get there though. I couldn't find much in the way of other's posting that had found any viable solution, or provided any real feedback if they had. Hence... this thread.

I will say that I love this car, and I have no regrets. I find myself looking for reasons to drive.

Acucurean

Thanks for your interest in the thread. I will post the engine management and supercharger stuff soon. I just want to make sure I don't miss anything in the write-ups. Of any of the write-ups, those deserve the most time and attention, as their corresponding modifications took the most time and attention to figure out.

Boulder TSX

I've very much enjoyed your discussion of your mods, and the detail of writing in your posts has been exceptional.

One thing begs a question however; your mention of drive-by-wire being introduced in '07. My understanding is that it has been a feature of the TSX since its introduction in 04. (I have an '06, and the '06 brochure mentions it...and the existence of the accelerator pedal postion sensor in every model year corresponds with DBW.)

I do know that Honda did something to mitigate ECU reflashing with the 07+ models, but I do not believe DBW was an entirely new feature.

(See this thread discussing Hondata's effect on DBW characteristics in various model years.)

http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show....php?p=9793912

Acucurean

Thanks for the post and corrective info. To be honest, in all of my research on the 08' TSX, I have never been able to get a straight answer as to why it is so difficult to manage the 07'-08' engine. Though the most common thread throughout is citation of the DBW system. Perhaps rather than claiming "introduction of the DBW system", a better statement is "a change to the DBW system".

I have been told numerous reasons. It was a Hondata technician that gave me the impression that DBW was new on the 07'. He could have been misinterpreting "the word around the office". Perhaps it was just that Honda introduced some new DBW management techniques that were difficult to reverse engineer.

One other reason that I had heard was that the ECU processor was changed to a different architecture between 06' and 07'? In which case the various reverse engineering and hacking that Hondata does would not (easily) apply to the new architecture.

Regardless, the 07' and 08' are difficult to manage, but not impossible. Unfortunately, managing the 07' and 08' is not perfect either. It is close to perfect, and the trade-offs are (IMHO) minimal.

Thanks again for the corrective information. It's important to keep these threads honest for value added.

Boulder TSX

Sure, no problem. --Thanks for the response.

I've been reading about this for last few years, and have been baffled by the still 'mysterious reason' as to what Honda did --and hence, why the '07 & '08's are not able to benefit from the Hondata reflash. No one has provided a clear answer as to what it is specifically, but it must be one heck of a puzzle to solve. It is one of the reasons I bought a CPO '06 two years ago, instead of an '07 or '08.

Sounds like you more than made up for the lack of Hondata, however. Nicely done.

prakash

good info buddy

davidspalding

Or ... disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes, reconnect, enter radio code, and drive? I know that when you remove the power for a while, the ECU clears its "learned" behavior. I have to remind myself to do this at the track before my first run.

Thanks for the post, you've got me thinking of the CT Icebox again. Even mild improvements would be appreciated at some turns I take at VIR in 2nd gear (5AT).

Azzmo

Good stuff Acucurean. I've just recently purchased a TSX and, consequently, my interest in cars has changed from marginal interest to "How do I make this thing scream?" Your detailed write ups are a great way for a layman to get acquainted with the various details of the options and I'm thankful that you took the time to do it. I feel like a CAI is a no-brainer and I'll start there. Did you pick Comptech over Injen or another manufacturer for a specific reason? Was there increased noise in everything from idling to slow driving to accelerating to highway cruising? I'm not necessarily enthusiastic about making it louder while cruising, so I'm curious if anything isn't louder after the CAI.

Acucurean

Sorry for the hiatus, I was unexpectedly called to travel to Central America for several months where internet access was limited, and I was immersed in slow moving traffic, dirt-bikes, and fake-modded Daewoos (there are lots of exterior mods down there but few performance mods, kind of interesting). Posting fell to the bottom of the priority list.

To answer the last post on the CAI, audible noise was a concern of mine, so I chose the Comptech because it wasn't too noisy but it was designed with the acoustical physics in mind (it has a tuned flanged port that takes into account resonance and air flow, yet it's still quieter than the ram style intakes). The majority of audible noise increase occurs durring WOT and 1st gear from stop. I didn't notice significant noise changes at idle, nor while cruising.

CT claims gains, and I did sense subtle improvements in throttle response, but I don't know how it compares to a ram style intake. My gut feeling (please note this is an opinion), the differences between a ram-intake and the CT-intake are negligible in terms of gains. The noise did increase with the CT-intake, but it is significantly quieter than my friends AEM on the TSX. Good luck with your mods and welcome to the TSX. It is an addiction for sure...

cjk5348

easily one of the most helpful posts I've read, thanks man!