'96 2.5 Rotor over Hub conversion

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 8, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #1  
lilscoots's Avatar
Thread Starter
10th Gear
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
'96 2.5 Rotor over Hub conversion

I've got a '96 TL 2.5 with the "captive rotor" that comes standard with our otherwise fine automobile.

My cv axle started clicking this spring. I thought as long as I am pulling everything apart... I may as well switch to rotor over hub (ROH).

I had somewhat of a budget, so I wanted to use as much stock stuff as I could. I also didn't want to have to buy all new wheels. Especially since I had just put new tires on last fall.

This thread will follow my conversion, since I haven't been able to find a clear version of what exactly works....Wish me luck!

Adam
Reply
Old Jun 9, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #2  
memphisraines26's Avatar
Racer
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 275
Likes: 10
From: Charleston, SC formerly Memphis, TN
hope this link helps... it would keep you with 4x114

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2027047
Reply
Old Jun 10, 2011 | 11:56 AM
  #3  
lilscoots's Avatar
Thread Starter
10th Gear
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
That's pretty much what I followed. The only problem with that one is that the accords and civics use smaller wheel bearings, and rotors than our TL's. The 98-99 3.0L CL's use the same bearings as our TL's and the same size rotors while keeping the 4x114 hub. I have 3.0L CL hubs being shipped to me currently. From what I could glean, the outer spline count and threading is the same from our TL's and the 3.0 CL, I'm hoping the diameters match as well. We'll see as soon as they get here.
Just waiting on parts now, and thanks again Memphis.
Reply
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #4  
lilscoots's Avatar
Thread Starter
10th Gear
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
they fit

So I got my hubs and bearings pressed out/in at a local shop today and test fit everything on the car.......and it all fits.

I took a bunch of pics of the whole process so a post with the exact parts used and some pics will come when i get a bit more time.
Reply
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 05:43 PM
  #5  
lilscoots's Avatar
Thread Starter
10th Gear
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
So here's a list of the parts I used

Necessary Parts
'98-99 CL 3.0L hubs --> probably Dealer as no Junk yard has them 2x $100-150 new $50 used
part# 44600-SS8-A00
'98-99 CL 3.0L rotors --> 4-lug 11" rotors 2x $25 new
(online dealers have better prices than local)
Total for non-stock parts = $250-$350



Parts you might find out you need after you start taking things apart

Wheel bearings --> Stock Mine were stuck $60 new
Calipers --> Stock
Pads --> Stock
Lower Ball Joint --> may as well get these pressed in the same time you have your hubs/bearings done
Acura does not list lower ball joint seperately from knuckle, but you can find it online for $30
Ball Joint boots (upper, lower, control arm) (Cheaper at honda dealership or online)
I chose to replace just the boots as my ball joints were good. I tore the boots removing the knuckle.
Upper boot - part#53546-SH0-A01 $5
Lower boot - part#51225-SL5-003 $12
Control arm boot - part#53546-SH0-A01 (same as upper)


I have pics and can write up a how to if anyone's interested.
Adam
Reply
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #6  
main70072's Avatar
Three Wheelin'
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,452
Likes: 90
From: New Orleans, LA
Please do write up a DIY whenever you have the time as some of us may find it useful in the future. I myself might do this next time I change my front rotors.
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2014 | 09:23 PM
  #7  
lilscoots's Avatar
Thread Starter
10th Gear
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
Found the pics
http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/el...2_5%20TL%20ROH
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2014 | 09:55 PM
  #8  
lilscoots's Avatar
Thread Starter
10th Gear
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
As far as a write up goes....
This is from memory of something I did 3 years ago and I assume you know some "basic" things like joint separation, brake pad/rotor replacement, wheel replacement, torque specs etc. If I missed anything let me know.

You need to get the parts mentioned above...when you have them and have found someone who will press out the old bearing/hub/rotor and press in the new bearing/hub and you have the necessary tools (socket set, ball joint separators, breaker bars, etc) you're good to go.

You'll need to get the steering knuckle out so you can get the bearings pressed.

Start by removing the wheels and jacking the car up. chock the back wheels and/or set the parking brake and get some jack stands under the car.

1. Remove the axle nut and separate the spindle from the bearing so the axle can slide in/out of the bearing. I used a vinyl/rubber sledge.

2. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket - two bolts on the backside of the of the steering knuckle - 17mm I believe. You can keep the caliper on the bracket if you wish. Hang the caliper from the springs with wire/zip-tie.

3. Remove the castle nuts from the lower and upper ball joints as well as the tie rod end.

4. Separate the Upper and lower ball joints as well as the tie rod end. There are a few ways to do this, I used a pickel fork and tore the boots.

5. Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. If I remember right, this took some effort to get the lower ball joint out of the lower control arm, a friend might be helpful?

6. Take your steering knuckles and new bearings/hubs and get the pressing done. If your lower ball joint is bad, get this pressed at the same time.

7. prepare to put the steering knuckle back in by replacing any boots that you tore, lubing the joints, new cotter pins etc.

8. Put the knuckle back in. Slide the axle into the new bearing at this time if you'd like.

9. Tighten the castle nuts back onto the ball joints and tie rod end and put new cotter pins in.

10. Slide the axle into the new bearing if you didn't already and tighten the axle nut and dent the ring into the notch.

11. Install the new rotor, new pads and slide the Caliper back on and bolt the bracket back onto the knuckle. You'll have to push the caliper cylinder in with a C-clamp or special tool to get new pads to fit around a new rotor.

12. put the wheel back on, get your car off the jackstands, tighten the lugs and be relieved the next time you have to replace the rotor that you don't have to tear the whole thing apart....
Reply
Old Feb 12, 2014 | 11:15 PM
  #9  
main70072's Avatar
Three Wheelin'
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,452
Likes: 90
From: New Orleans, LA
I did the same exact except with 5 lug hubs. Nice straight forward write up!
Reply
Old Feb 16, 2014 | 06:08 PM
  #10  
lilscoots's Avatar
Thread Starter
10th Gear
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
This allowed me to keep my current rims/tires by staying with the 4 lug hubs. and thanks
Reply
Old Feb 17, 2014 | 03:32 PM
  #11  
bigwerm187's Avatar
Str8 Home built
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 921
Likes: 20
From: SinCal 805
This is awsome... Am have to do this for mine... i hope i can find drilled and slotted rotors for a 3.0 cl lol
Reply
Old Jul 21, 2019 | 08:11 PM
  #12  
bean02127's Avatar
Cruisin'
 
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
Let me get this straight?

So I’m having serious issues with a bolt rounded on my hub can’t move it. So I have a new bearing I have a 1998 Acura 2.5 tl so I just want to get this rite so what hub from what vehicles fit cuz I’m not paying 250 for the hub from the dealer I refuse it’s ridiculous and dumb so I came across this thread and are you saying all I need is the Acura cl 98 99 spindle? And it will fit my axle line up correct and can still use my original rotors?
Reply
Old Jul 21, 2019 | 08:19 PM
  #13  
bean02127's Avatar
Cruisin'
 
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
Can anyone help me?

So idk what this guy did so many years ago but he says he did this to a 2.5 tl anyone know how this works?
Originally Posted by lilscoots
So here's a list of the parts I used

Necessary Parts
'98-99 CL 3.0L hubs --> probably Dealer as no Junk yard has them 2x $100-150 new $50 used
part# 44600-SS8-A00
'98-99 CL 3.0L rotors --> 4-lug 11" rotors 2x $25 new
(online dealers have better prices than local)
Total for non-stock parts = $250-$350



Parts you might find out you need after you start taking things apart

Wheel bearings --> Stock Mine were stuck $60 new
Calipers --> Stock
Pads --> Stock
Lower Ball Joint --> may as well get these pressed in the same time you have your hubs/bearings done
Acura does not list lower ball joint seperately from knuckle, but you can find it online for $30
Ball Joint boots (upper, lower, control arm) (Cheaper at honda dealership or online)
I chose to replace just the boots as my ball joints were good. I tore the boots removing the knuckle.
Upper boot - part#53546-SH0-A01 $5
Lower boot - part#51225-SL5-003 $12
Control arm boot - part#53546-SH0-A01 (same as upper)


I have pics and can write up a how to if anyone's interested.
Adam
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rp_guy
Member Cars for Sale
9
Jul 16, 2017 07:33 AM
LoneRonin
Car Parts for Sale
2
Jan 4, 2016 01:03 AM
swany0095
2G TSX Performance Parts & Modifications
3
Oct 7, 2015 02:18 PM
johnpancakes014
2G TL Performance Parts & Modifications
3
Sep 27, 2015 12:58 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:01 AM.