SamanthaD

Need help. I have a 1st gen TL and I've got overheating problems. I replaced the thermostat, hoses and radiator cap but with no improvement.Trying to limit my expense so I'm inquiring. I'm planning on doing a pressure check to find potential leaks and I know I've got electric fan issues as well, but my question really has to do with some of the symptoms I'm witnessing. I've been driving around with the heater on full blast to limit my problems. It appears that my temp will stay in range even at stop lights until the heat suddenly turns cool, at which point I know I have minutes b4 my radiator will be steaming. This I don't understand. One moment its good and warm and the next moment its cool and my temp gauge is about to skyrocket. Of course, I'm relieving the engine of heat when my heater is on and I'm using more of my cooling system when I do, but why would my heater suddenly turn cool. What is the process going on here?

main70072

You might have air trapped within the system.

SamanthaD

Yes, you are right about the air trapped but I've thus far failed to successfully bleed it correctly. However, after reading more I've also gotten an answer to my question which was why my heater would suddenly turn cool before it overheated and its because I'd lost too much coolant and therefore didn't have enough to keep the heater core flooded with coolant. That same drop in coolant levels would bring the overheating too. But I'm more worried this will all turn out to be because of a blown head gasket. Then I have to question whether its worthwhile of an investment in an 18 yr old car and how much more it will cost to replace. I don't have the money either way.

white2.5tl

3.2 or a 2.5 tl? 2.5 tl have 2 bleeder hole.

SamanthaD

Its a 3.2. I just picked up a block test and I'm anxious to know my car's future.

SamanthaD

Well, the block test was a pass by my calculations. Blue chemical stayed blue for about 5-7 minutes at which time the radiator coolant started to expand up into the plunger negating any more time on that test. I have to give credit to Autozone for their tool borrow program. What a deal! Just had to pay for chemical. But I did discover a leak in my radiator so I suppose its time to buy a new radiator. Hopefully, that will be the whole problem all along. Any radiator recommendations for a 96 TL? Where to shop online and any specific type besides the OEM?

main70072

Well that's good news! Any OE replacement will do just fine. I would usually recommend radiatorbarn, but heard that they got bought out. Try rockauto, they usually have a few to choose from. Good Luck!

SamanthaD

Well, I ordered my radiator and it should arrive in a few days. In the meantime, I hope to zero in on what might have been the original problem. I'm thinking the radiator may have sprung a leak just due to the recent overheating abuse. When checking my fuses I noted a number of them were testing as bad but when I pulled them and even tried those same fuses in other bays I found the fuses were fine. Does this point to a bad relay or something else? Multiple fuses that work in different capacities all not working? Can't be coincidence. What to check now?

SamanthaD

Scratch my last post. All fuses are fine. Now, I think I'm whittling it down to heat sensers, fan motor, or maybe a relay. While initially my cooling fan seemed to be operational, I can only attest to it working when I turned my vehicle off. Now its just off no matter the heat of the coolant.

main70072

A cracked radiator is common on these cars. I remember a time when several members had this problem including myself. See if your fans come on with the A/C.

SamanthaD

Finally getting back to putting in my new radiator. I know my fan isn't working but don't know if its the fan motor or the relay. Can I assume the new radiator will need the old relay from the old radiator? And what's the best way to test both the relay and the fan?

main70072

Both fans should come on with A/C compressor turning.

faheyd

If you can get your hands on a FSM, it's chapter 10.
For the ECT (lower passenger side radiator), suspend the ECT in hot water. Testing between 189-199F, the switch will be CLOSED. (no resistance or very little)
Lower temps should be OPEN. (infinite resistance).

Best to test when you pull the old radiator.

faheyd

And you will break a lot of plastic connector things. Just keep track of them and get a package of them from the dealer or auto supply. We broke about three different types of connectors, taking off the lower shield, the wire harness on the radiator, and found a bunch broke on the front from some previous owner.