The heat went out on my 96' months ago, but I didn't have the time nor money to fix it. Seeing as it is now getting to be something like 7 degrees outside (8am this morning) I need it working.

Yesterday I took it to get a radiator flush since its too damned cold to do it myself, and at the ship it was blowing 130 degree heat. I got it home and its not blowing air that's even warm. I was getting 38 degree air out of the vents.

Could this be a thermostat issue? A couple months ago I bled off the air by using the bleeder valve and refilled the system and it helped a little bit. Unfortunately it immediately went right back.

I'm trying to figure out if there's a leak somewhere too. I dunno, nothing about this has made any sense. I haven't noticed any leaks, and the oil is not foamy, so that's out. Only idea I have left IS the thermostat. What say you folks?

 

Also, a couple months ago when I did that, it was revving weird. It would jump to 2500 then down to 1000 and it wound cycle like that. Did it for 15 minutes on its own.

 

Just bled the air out again... got a UV dye and headin out to get a uv light. hoping its not something crazy like the water pump.... would not look forward to THAT...

 

Sometimes bleeding all the air out can be difficult. Make sure the vacuum actuated valve is opening and you have hot coolant circulating through the heater core hoses (feel the hoses).

If you have heat to the heater core, something is wrong w/ the blend door.

good luck

 

Found my coolant leak. The UV dye didn't show up anywhere except for the oil (Except for the possibility of the lower line not being tightened down all of the way). What's your opinion on Bar's Leak stuff that you put into the oil or coolant and run the engine that supposedly "seals" all of the leaks? That stuff worth the $60/bottle?

 

This stuff:

Bar's Leaks Head Gasket & Cooling Sealant
Carbon Fiber Block Seal
http://www.barsproducts.com/HG1.htm

Also saw this stuff called "blue devil" but dunno about it.

 

I've never had any luck, but my Dad has managed to repair head gaskets on a few occasions w/ this or similar stuff. I don't see much harm in trying. I would not put anything in the oil as this might cause some blockage in the lubricating system.

Note, head gasket leaks can leak exhaust gases into coolant system, coolant into cylinder head, oil into cooling system, coolant into oil, and coolant external leakage.

good luck

 

I've heard that that nanotechnology stuff in the green bottle at your local parts store works. But pouring that into your engine means that when/ if you want to fix it properly, you need to get another engine.

 

I'm still having issues.

These thigns are happening:

No heat
Overheating Engine
Radiator Fans not turning on until car is turned off

If heat DOES start up, it will stop as soon as you come to a halt.

The heater lines feel like they're warming up.

The engine will idle poorly, it will jump from 800rpm to 2400rpm and cycle like that every second or so.


What in the hell is wrong with my car? Can't afford to take it to a mechanic. :/

Also, replaced the coolant temperature sensor and it hasn't exactly overheated since, but the coolant reservoir boils.

 

If the Blend Door is the problem for the heat, then I have two problems :|

Where do I find the blend door, and how do I fix it?

And also, if someone could re-link me to that website that has all of the diagrams of this car? I lost a computer recently.

 

If reservoir is boiling, there can only be two reasons; radiator cap is allowing overflow of coolant into reservoir or exhaust gases are entering cooling system, overcoming radiator cap release pressure and bubbling into reservoir. Replace cap, and if bubbling continues a new head gasket will be necessary.

Cooling fans should run whenever AC is commanded. You can check fans by shorting the thermoswitch on the lower radiator, drivers side. Remove connector and short wires w/ paper clip or similar. Turn keyswitch to On and fans should run.

If not, then both fans are bad, or both fan relays (top of radiator -same alignment as fans). More likely both fans are bad.

If fans both run, then thermoswitch has failed open. Replace thermoswitch.

Have you checked ATC system for fault codes; turn keyswitch On, press both OFF and AUTO at same time. Report what parts of LCD screen are illuminated and I''ll give you the code, or PM your email address and I'll forward.

good luck

 

Had a buddy take a look at it and he said that he thinks I should replace the radiator cap. He also noticed something else I didn't notice, which was that the line running to the overflow reservoir is degrading, which could also be adding to that.

While he was over, I let the car idle for about 5 minutes, then cranked it slowly up to 3500-4000 rpms and held it. Shortly thereafter I had 135 degree heat coming out. So the heat clearly works....


..... so this could literally be nothing but a god damned radiator cap problem.... hilarious.


When I turn on the AC the drivers side fan turns on. Otherwise, neither fan turned on, and I don't recall them turning on after I shut the car off either. So the fans DO work, and the new coolant temperature sensor should help alleviate the problem, I hope.

Is there a way to test the fan relay? Just swap out the relays with another, basically?

 

^ Both fans should be on when A/C running.

 

Then that would indeed be one of my problems....