oregongolf

98 3.2L TL, engine cranks...but will not start. dash lights come on, radio, seemingly all electrics work and no trouble codes/check engine lights on the dash. my brother law and I tried the 'turn the key on/off several times, but don't start the car' tip listed above and voila...it starts. I am concerned that this will/can happen again and I wanted to know if anyone had a test procedure for the fuel pump relay/fuel pump. I have a volt/test meter and I'd like to think that between the two of us we can get this fixed. thoughts?

DarkSithCL

iTrader: (1)

Go to the DIY section, the answer is probably there.... does this happen when you 1st start the car or after its been running a while and then you try to restart it?

Go90go

Try checking the ground wire for the injectors. I forgot to tighten the nut once and had a hell of a time tracing the problem.

Another thing you could test is to supply +12V to the pump in the trunk using a quick splice, to see if it isn't your main relay that's bad. Main relays can usually be fixed by rehotting the connectors, since the solder joints tend to crack over time.

~Cheers~

P.S. Rehotting is a phone term, haha. I used to rehot ICs all the time.

desired_speeds

if it cranks but won't start, it's probably the main relay. you can resolder it and it'll be good to go. even if it isnt the problem, it wouldn't hurt to be sure that its in good working order.

TexasHonda

It could be either the main fuel relay (MFR) or fuel pump. Only way to know for sure is to check voltage at the fuel pump connection in the trunk. Fuel pump should have power for 2-3 secs, then off when keyswitch is turned to ON. I have had one case of fuel pump (Accord) that would stick when attempting to start, but would eventually start by "hammering" w/ repeated on/off's. When you hear the pump come on, you know it will crank.

I've never had a MFR problem on my 2.5TL, but have had several on Accords.

good luck