Another A/C problem (FML)
#1
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Another A/C problem (FML)
I seem to be really unlucky since my A/C system is failing all the time.
Basically the problem is the following: The drivers side vent blows moderately cold air (30% of what it's supposed to be) and it gets hotter the more you move to the pass side where the rightmost vent blows hot air. Also not water is coming out under the car - not a single drip.
Any ideas?
Basically the problem is the following: The drivers side vent blows moderately cold air (30% of what it's supposed to be) and it gets hotter the more you move to the pass side where the rightmost vent blows hot air. Also not water is coming out under the car - not a single drip.
Any ideas?
#3
Unequal cooling is usually result of low charge; evaporator is starved for refrigerant and only part of it gets cooled enough to deliver cooled air.
Make sure the heater core valve is fully closing and not warming the air.
If charge is low there's a leak somewhere that should be found/repaired before recharging. Prime leak candidates are compressor shaft seal, flexible hose end fittings, and orings in connections. Most leaks will be visible due to dirt accumulating/sticking to oil also lost w/ refrigerant. Ring of dirt around compressor indicates shaft seal is leaking.
good luck
good luck
Make sure the heater core valve is fully closing and not warming the air.
If charge is low there's a leak somewhere that should be found/repaired before recharging. Prime leak candidates are compressor shaft seal, flexible hose end fittings, and orings in connections. Most leaks will be visible due to dirt accumulating/sticking to oil also lost w/ refrigerant. Ring of dirt around compressor indicates shaft seal is leaking.
good luck
good luck
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This is weird. I went to work later on yesterday and the AC was blowing really cold (less on the pass side). Then, after a 45 min drive it was a bit warmer but MUCH better than earlier in the day.
Either way, I'll go get an A/C recharge(with dye) and see if it fixes my problem. Also, could tell me how to make sure that the heater core valve is closing?
Either way, I'll go get an A/C recharge(with dye) and see if it fixes my problem. Also, could tell me how to make sure that the heater core valve is closing?
#5
Feel both hoses going to heater core. If both are hot, the valve is stuck in open position, assuming temp setting is cold.
If one hose is cold it should be working OK. You can verify by turning temp to full warm and see if hose warms up.
I also believe you can seem mechanical arm of valve move when commanded if its working.
good luck
If one hose is cold it should be working OK. You can verify by turning temp to full warm and see if hose warms up.
I also believe you can seem mechanical arm of valve move when commanded if its working.
good luck
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Tomorrow I'll try to find a place that can recharge the system and I'll see if it helps. I'll let you guys know.
And yes, TexasHonda is probably the most knowledgeable person on these boards!
And yes, TexasHonda is probably the most knowledgeable person on these boards!
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So the problem is a faulty expansion valve. I've did a search on here and found that a few people on here had the same problem. I'll get it replaced soon, I just hope that it won't cost me a fortune.
What else should I inspect/change while the whole dash is apart since I want this to be the first and last time that the dash is taken off?
What else should I inspect/change while the whole dash is apart since I want this to be the first and last time that the dash is taken off?
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So I got the expansion valve replaced and the system recharged. The air coming out the vents is ICE COLD BABY! Also, there was a thread not long ago about two pipes leaking which resulted in the owner of the car not having heat. Mine had a very small leak, but I got them tightened. Hopefully the dash will not need to be taken out for as long as I own the car...
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The person who diagnosed the problem quoted me $800. My mechanic replaced the expansion valve for $200 including the valve which costs $50. I had to recharge the system which was $100, but they are required by law to do a test for leaks beforehand so that was an extra 40, plus tax and you have $160
So all together $360. It's not that bad, and I'm sure that the dealer would have charged over a grand with part and labor.
So all together $360. It's not that bad, and I'm sure that the dealer would have charged over a grand with part and labor.
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The person who diagnosed the problem quoted me $800. My mechanic replaced the expansion valve for $200 including the valve which costs $50. I had to recharge the system which was $100, but they are required by law to do a test for leaks beforehand so that was an extra 40, plus tax and you have $160
So all together $360. It's not that bad, and I'm sure that the dealer would have charged over a grand with part and labor.
So all together $360. It's not that bad, and I'm sure that the dealer would have charged over a grand with part and labor.
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