esco786

iTrader: (2)

My ABS light has been on consistently sometimes but I have never paid attention to it as I thought it would be sensor related. With our cars, when you first turn it on, you hear a 1 second sound from the ABS. I hear that sound even when coming to a stop. Is that normal? Meaning I hear it more than once while the car is on.

TexasHonda

No, if the ABS pump engages after the starup sequence, the accumulator is losing pressure. This usally means an internal leak in the ABS modulator, pump seal, accumulator seal, etc. It can also mean you're low on brake fluid due to a small leak from the modulator. Top up brake fluid and try to find the leak. Some leaks (accumulator seal, modulator access plugs, and connections) can be fixed.

Most frequent fix is replacing the modulator. This is big bucks from Acura, but you can usually find decent used modulators on ebay or online for a reasonable price.

If ABS engages too many times during a set period, the ABS controller will disable the ABS system and set the ABS light. Has this occurred?

good luck

Tino D'Voe

exact same problem here. I can hear that grinding noise while driving, and when the car sarts up. I'd love to find a way to fix this.

When searching for the part on ebay, what is the part model, #, etc exactly?

Any other tips on where to start diagnosing, what should I do next?

TexasHonda

Get ABS code that is stored when ABS light illuminates. Short service check connector under glove box and read ABS flashes; long flash for 10's digit and short flash for units. Some codes are single digit, all short flashes.

Try car-part.com for local ABS modulators for your Acura. Try to get a garuntee for a working unit. I've found many from salvage yards have faults also.

Buy a shop manual. It has a lot of good info to enable repair of ABS system by DIY.

good luck

esco786

iTrader: (2)

hey thanks for the reply, well my abs light is actually random sometimes it'd go away and not come back until i next time restart the car. It doesnt engage the ABS but that buzz sound does come.

TexasHonda

If you check for codes immediately after the ABS is illuminated, the code should be present. This is key to ABS repair.

good luck

esco786

iTrader: (2)

Code 1-8, Bad accumulator. Pressure keeps getting built at wrong times I guess, and the accumulator does sound up often too many times which means i need to fork some cash out for this. Most obvious way for me to see was by the external leak at the bottom of the accumulator

TexasHonda

What model and engine is your TL?

My 95-98, 2.5 TL manual lists code 18 as "wheel sensor (open/short to body ground/short to power)". These models don't have an accumulator.

Perhaps you have a 3.2TL w/ different modulator?

I had a leak on my daughter's 97 Acura CL accumulator. It caused loss of fluid until the ABS light came on due to low fluid. I replaced the oring at the accumulator outlet, refilled, and bled the system. Problem fixed.

good luck

esco786

iTrader: (2)

hey texas,
i also have 96 2.5 TL. Are you sure we dont have accumulators, im thinking the device we have on the lower left portion was the accumulator. To the left of it is the maintenance bleeder. If you also had code 18, can you let me know again how you exactly fixed this issue? There is a post on the technical bulletin on how to bleed the system, but how is it that you replace the oring?

TexasHonda

Eco786

I checked my Mitchell on Demand CD for 3.2TL in a 98 and it has same modulator as the 2.5TL. However, the 96 3.2TL has a different modulator w/ an accumulator. It may be the same modulator as used on the CL and Accords, at least similar. In this case, code 18, the accumulator may be leaking, relief valve set pressure changed, rear outlet solenoid valve late to close, or changed pressure switch set pressure. All of these but accumulator leaking look to be unlikely unless someone opened and tampered w/ the modulator.

Looks like the 97-98 TL's all have same ABS unit w/o accumulator.

You can extract codes yourself by shorting the Service Check Connector w/ a paper clip or other wire, turn key to ON, and read flashes of ABS light (long flash =10's digit, and short flashes are units w/ short pause between digits).

good luck

esco786

iTrader: (2)

thanks again, yes i did do the short trick it gave me 18, after deeper looking i did see some leakage on the bottom of the accumulator, you recommend getting this fixed? as i do not care much for the abs, but if i dont get it fixed, would the leak cause bigger problems?

TexasHonda

It's a relatively easy fix, but does require removing the modulator to access the accumulator. Bleed pressure from the bleeder plug, remove two bolts, replace oring on the accumulator end, and re-install. Honda or Acura doesn't furnish the oring by itself, so you'll have to match as close as possible at an auto parts store. Accumulator oring worked for me. Leak was cured and abs light off. You will also need to refill the modulator reservoir, bleed the modulator, and bleed your car brakes after installation.

Brake fluid will damage the paint under the modulator over time, and may lead to corrosion in this area. Possible corrosion, not having ABS, and aggravating ABS light are the permanent problems.

It might be worthwhile checking w/ a mirror around the base of the accumulator to see if you can confirm brake fluid leaking from this point. I did this before removing the modulator on my daughter's 97 2.2CL.

Be sure and use a 10mm tubing wrench to break the tubing nuts loose. An open-end wrench or visegrip will round them for sure. Calhawk makes an inexpensive set of tubing wrenches for < $5 that is widely available at discount tool shops. They worked well for me.

good luck