TexasHonda

I replaced the figure-8 shaped gasket beneath my oil filter mounting base today. This is not a fun job, but I had a significant leak, possibly pint or so per month.

General instruction: Wear long sleeve shirt. I didn't and my arms look like a cat got hold of me. Lots of close quarters, stretching, and pushing required.

Following is sequential procedure:

1) Remove oil filter. Remove motor mount vacuum solenoid from bracket and allow to drop down.
2) Drop IACV electrical connector loose and allow to drop down.
3) Remove IACV and allow to hang. Don't disconnect coolant lines. It doesn't look like much help but was essential for me.
4) Remove two lower 10mm socket size bolts (fairly easy). Wobble extensions are helpful but not essential.
5) Upper 10mm socket-size bolt is the real challenge. I used 3" and 6" wobble extensions back to back and was just able to reach w/ much difficulty. I should have added a spring-supported universal to the end and probably would have been easier. I forgot I had this in my socket set.
6) Remove oil pressure pickup electical connector and allow to hang.
7) Remove oil filter mounting base and old gasket. My gasket was so brittle it came apart when I used an oring pick to pull off engine side.
8) Thoroughly clean oil filter mount base, particularly the oring groove.
9) Mount new oring in oil filter mount base. Important! Use a small amount of RTV sealant to fix and hold the oring to the oil filter mount base. Without the RTV, when you try to re-install, the oring will hit something and fall out, even w/ grease to hold in place.
10) Reinstall oil filter mount base. I used two small diameter (3-4mm), 2" length machine screws to temporarily pin the base in place through the two lower holes. I then installed upper bolt in 10mm socket using paper towel to jam the bolt head into the socket. I used the 3" and 6" wobble extensions w/o ratchet to start the bolt. A difficult, tricky job requiring persistance and many foul oaths.
11) Once upper bolt is started, the lower temporary pin screws can be sequentially pulled and bolts installed.
12) Tighten all bolts, firmly snug,... no way you can get a torque wrench to these so you'll have to estimate. Don't overtorque and twist bolt head off or you'll probably have to pull the intake manifold to repair.
13) Reinstall all removed or disconnected parts and check for left-behind wrenches, sockets, etc.
14) Reinstall oil filter.
15 Start engine and pray for no leaks. I was holding my breath, but thankfully I had no leaks.

Hopefully, this will stop or reduce the annoying oil drips w/ this car. This was a major contributor, but may not be sole leak.

See following thread for same problem. I generally followed this plan but did not remove the alternator (significant job itself).

Another Oil Filter Mounting Base Replacement

good luck

main70072

I would like to thank TexasHonda for the instructions on how to replace the oil filter base gasket. I have replaced mines today due to an oil leak under the oil filter on cold start up. The job took me about 5 hours to finish and leak is now gone. Very useful thread!

kamdog211

Do you guys have a part number for the gasket? I have been looking all around for it but not able to find it. Also, if you took a pick of the base, that would be awesome to have. I think I'm having the save issue.

meazz1

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal

Look at #3 on the list. That's what you need.
Plenty of info in this diagram.

vas25tl

Did the car only leak when cold?

Mine drips more during the cold months than it does in the Summer.

main70072

My car leak a lot of oil when it is cold. As I start my car up early in the morning and look underneath the car, after about 2 minutes I can see the oil starts to drip on the ground. It drip drop after drop and I was loosing a lot of oil so I decided to change the gasket out. My car did leak in the summer time too but not much. Only a drop or two every day.

andrew070489

^^ i did this on my own yesterday.. what a PITA!! i didnt even see this thread either ha my arms are a mess!! 2 hours labor for me $6 gasket, and removing all of that stuff isnt necessary.. i removed the intake tube going to my TB and a connector and used extensions and swivel sockets..

llg114

TexasHonda,
When you replaced the oil filter base mount gasket, how did you access it? Did you remove the intake manifold or did you go in from underneath or the side, via the wheelwell?

TexasHonda

I went in from the side w/ intake manifold in place. See procedure. Removing air intake helps also.

Not an easy job w/ intake manifold in place, but easier than removing the intake manifold. This is a big leaker and easy to see.

good luck

livinthedream

I did this job last weekend on my son's '96. Basically as TexasHonda described. I removed the airbox for a little more room. I used 2 - 6" extensions and 1 swivel extension to get to the top bolt. It was tedious, but it worked fine. You really can't see much, even with a light shining in, because the intake manifold blocks so much of your vision. Very important to use a dab of gasket sealant to hold your new gasket in place on the bottom of the oil filter extension base, as you put it back on the engine block. No room to get your fingers in to hold it, and frankly just the easiest and quickest way to get it back on and buttoned up right the first time.

If you have any doubts about where you engine is leaking from, just see if there is sludge in the area of the filter base. I'd bet that's your problem. I also had oil in the spark plugs, but not really any leaks around the valve cover. I replaced the valve cover gasket while I was at it, and no more leaks in the plugs. That job is easy 15-20 minutes tops.

Sprayed degreaser on the engine at the local car wash, cleaned it up. Viola! No more leaks on my driveway!

doncalvino

Just completed this repair yesterday. I appreciate the write up that TexasHonda did on this as well as the follow up tips from others. I also used two 6" extensions and a universal joint to get to that top bolt. I was able to see the bolts fairly well by positioning a flashlight on top of the intake manifold in the open space directly above the mounting base. I was also able to reach in and hand thread all 3 bolts before re-tightening. No more oil leaks!

tempetom

I believe my 3.2 has a similar leak. I wonder how much of a pita it will be to replace its gasket? I dread doing it after my starter trials.

doncalvino

tempetom, this repair is not too bad and will take care of most, if not all, of your oil leak/s - just requires the right tools and a bit of patience. I've got a couple of other small leaks that I found so I'll also need to replace the distributor o-ring & valve cover gaskets. My 96 2.5 is at 137,500 so it's to be expected.

guynormal01

Great thread. One thing that helped me access that top bolt.. I used a swivel connection and a 6 or 8 inch extension... But I went through the top intake runners.. Instead of below them. . I was able to brake loose the bolt as well as see what I was accessing .. I also used the openings between the intake to to hand down bolts and sockets during installation with a magnet wand so I didn't have to move my arm in and out of the tight area below the intake ..It will save some wear and tear on the arm ..... thanks for posting this saved me some cash

arsintn

i have been assuming it was something more serious than a PITA gasket repair. I've been losing about 1.5 qts between oil changes (7500 miles). Excellent info. Also a good excuse to buy some new tools!

arsintn

Repair complete, 90+ minutes, the planets much have been aligned. Now to try and put the rear passenger window mechanism back together. After i tore it all apart, it turned out to be the master switch and not the motor

merrillsid

hey I have a 93 acura vigor 2.5 I checked the oil it was full I drove about sixty miles and it almost empty I have changed the rear main seal already does any body know what else may lose oil that badly

main70072

Did you check the oil immediately after the car was off? Oil spills out from where?

zypkode

Let me know how that Replacement of the Distributor O Ring goes. My 96 TL 2.5 needs a Replacement of the Distributor. I got about 280,000 miles on my 96 TL.

bigwerm187

Great job texas honda...

Iam have to knock this out pretty soon lol haha...

Johnjneely

I followed your directions and it worked like a charm. I I highly recommend a wobble extension and jointed socket for this job. I bought a 4 pack wobble extension 1/4 inch drive. 2,4,6 and 14 inch. The 14 inch came in very handy for the top bold I was able to break it loose by accessing it going over the alternator. Then removed and installed from the top intakes. Easy peasy. I used the honda bond liberally in the o-ring gap pressed the o-ring in. I have not slept in days dreading this job. However due to the great instructions, It was a piece of cake. And I have not worked on any cars since the 1980's and am by no means a mechanic. Now on to the next issue.