I am new to this community, but spent the morning reading the long thread of issues from 1st gen 3.2TL owners. I found the list so interesting that I documented my own history of issues and experiences to share with you. Your turn to answer my questions and share your experiences with me comes at the end!

Vehicle History:
· 96 Acura 3.2TL
·Purchased from neighbor Sept. ‘99 for $18,400 with 56K miles.
· 150K miles today (Aug. ‘05)
· ~23 mpg today (Aug '05)
· I like the vehicle, but hate the high cost of repairs!

Routine maintenance performed
· Replace oil & filter (every 4 – 5K miles)
· Replace engine coolant (48K, 103K, 141K)
· Replace transmission bolt - vehicle recalled (60K mile)
· Replace original battery (60K mile, 37 months)
· Replace spark plugs (60K, 128K)
· Replace air filter (60K, 110K)
· Replace front differential (60K, 103K, 141K)
· Replace brake fluid (68K, 141K)
· Replace transmission fluid (103K)
· Replace front brake pads (115K)
· Replace rear brake pads (133K)

Issues and Experiences
1) Erratic 1st to 2nd shifting observed during first test drive – hasn’t changed, even after transmission fluid change. Living with problem.
2) Power windows are slow and noisy. This was observed during first test drive – speed possibly getting slower, hard to tell. Living with problem.
3) Loud tires: Pirelli Sport Veloce replaced with BG Goodrich Traction T/A – some improvement. Pirelli performance on snow was unacceptable!
4) Cup holder lid won’t close – latch stud broken at ~75K. Living with problem.
5) Starter failed (intermittent problems for 3-6 months beginning at ~100K)
5.1) Battery cable replaced (no help)
5.2) Battery replaced (on warranty, but no help)
5.3) Starter replaced – problem fixed (103K, $650 – outrageous!)
5.4) 2 wheel lugs replaced – drivers front wheel - damaged by dealer during starter replacement (see item 11 below for related problem).
6) Condensation in drivers side tail-light – observed after ~100K. Living with problem.
7) D4 light – stopped working ~100K. Living with problem.
8) Engine light on (MIL P0401 – EGR) ~110K. Living with problem.
8.1) EGR Gasket replaced – no help
8.2) EGR valve removed and cleaned – no help
9) Erratic security system alarm triggered (2-3 times since ~100K). Living with problem.
10) Passengers air condition vent broken at ~125K. Living with problem.
11) Once-per-revolution vibration - Front driver side wheel bearing replaced. (124K, $315 – outrageous!) Problem fixed
11.1) Suspect bearing damaged by Pep Boys during wheel lug replacement
12) Replace timing belt, timing belt sensors, water pump, and other belts (141K, $1100 – outrageous!)

QUESTIONS FOR THE EXPERTS (That's you guys)
Q1) Can I switch to 5W20 motor oil for better mileage or could that damage the engine? Is this a good idea?
Q2) Is the slow power window speed an indication of impending failure and need to replace (at great expense!) or is it just a slow but otherwise health motor?
Q3) Is the erratic shift from 1st to 2nd gear likely to lead to premature transmission failure?
Q4) What is the effect of not fixing the EGR valve problem? Emissions? Fuel Economy? Other long term engine damage?
Q5) Has anybody experienced an alternator/generator failure? If so, at what mileage and at what cost?
Q6) After 150K miles, the paint (metalic beige) is scratched an worn. What are my low cost options for improving the appearance?
Q7) What is the effect of not fixing the condensation in the drivers tail light?
Q8) What other expensive problems have people had?

CPB in INDY

 

7.) i would take off ur taillight.. its only a few screws and let it dry off... i would just put silicone around the edge.. alot of ppl here actually changed the gasket...

haven't had major problems with my cars

 

Any more info on the tranny bolt being replaced under recall?

 

-i took out my dash to replace the burnt "D4" bulb with the "1"

-to get faster window roll up, you just need to take off the door panel and wd40 it up. some have even loosen up what holds the window in place. if you search, there is a link on directions on how to do so.

-engine light on, you might be either 1) not using premium gas. 2) not tightening the gas cap to at least 3 clicks 3) using wrong oil or not changing the oil every 3k miles or so?

 

1) Yes, I use 5w-20 without issues. It can be used in any Honda/Acura motor.

2) No, its a common issue with the 1st gen TL.

3) No, its common in '91 - 95 Legends, 3.2 TL and the '96 - '04 RL. Same transmission.

4) Its mostly emissions but there is some power loss as well.

5) No alternator problems for me yet.

6) Try a good wash/wax. I'd talk to a paint shop about it.

7) No real problems, its just an appearance issue.

8) Starter was the big expense for me.

 

Ken,

Thanks for your responses. I'm going to use 5W20 next time (same as my 2005 Honda Pilot). I'm going to wait until the windows stop working before doing any peventive maintenance, I'll ignore the rough 1st to 2nd shift, I'll leave the ERG valve as-is and check the codes periodically for other faults, I'll continue to pray the alternator stays healthy, I'll learn to live with a worn paint job (that's the cost of driving the same vehicle for a quater million miles), and I'll leave the tail light alone for now. In otherwords, I'm going to do nothing about these issues while monitoring the vehicles health for issues that need to be addressed.

By the way - if the starter was your big expense, have you changed your timing belt yet? I waited until 140K so that I would only have to do it once, but since I want to drive it for several more years, I wasn't going to wait for failure.

 

you waited till 140k?

110k at the MAX, 100k 99% of the time.

 

Bluish

Q4) What is the effect of not fixing the EGR valve problem? Emissions? Fuel Economy? Other long term engine damage?

Response: Lack of EGR flow will likely mean you can't pass an emissions test, assuming you have do so in your area. In TX, they won't even inspect your car if the CEL is on. On earlier cars, total absence of EGR flow would cause pinging, not good long term for any engine. However w/ anti-knock sensors, the ECU simply retards the timing till knocking stops. This however reduces engine efficiency (gas mileage!). So there is a $ downside to not fixing the problem.

P0401 is "insufficient EGR flow". This means (to me, Honda doesn't provide a detailed explanation), the EGR valve is working (ECU recognizes valve movement)but the system manifold pressures don't reflect that EGR gas is being introduced into intake manifold. The most likely explanation is blocked EGR ports or passages upstream or downstream of the EGR. You need to have the passages rodded and cleaned. Search for a TSB on blocked EGR for your model or later.

good luck

 

Sounds like you are the type of car owner that puts off the small maintenence items until you have to fix them, resulting in a repair bill, or high parts. It also sounds like you don't spend the time to fully understand the root cause, and spend dough on parts without fully understanding if they will fix the problem (EGR error code - if you had a manual, it clearly tells you that the egr valve is working, just that there is limited flow.

And then you say the repair costs are high?

Heck, why not just wait til your timing belt goes, and see how much a new head, pistons, etc. (or a new engine) costs to fix.

By the way, on the taillight, take it out and drill a small hole in the bottom (1/8. or 3/16) and the moisture will drain out.

But I guess you will just wait until you have to replace the lense due to mold, and the bulb connection due to rust...

 

Racerock - thanks for the tail light idea - I'll give it a shot. Did you have a similar problem that was solved by this approach or do you just think this is a good possible solution?

Based on your impression of my maintenance plan, I must have misguided you somehow! I generally follow a "conditioned based maintenance" plan rather than a pure "mileage based" maintenance plan. Every month I inspect the engine looking for impending problems or failures. I try to take the time to understand the cause before replacing difficult or expensive parts. I will replace cheap parts (<$5) like gaskets or clamps hoping to get luckly, but do not do this with expensive parts - like the EGR valve. With the EGR valve, I followed the manual and cleaned out the passages with carb cleaner - I'm not sure why you critized my actions there since I never replace the valve anyway!

Regarding the timing belt, I inspect it and the other belts monthly and even at 141K miles, they looked good. I noticed in your other postings that you changed your timing belt at 108K and couldn't find any cracks. It is clear you don't approve of "condition based maintenance", but I intend to follow that strategy.

Oh - and by the way - I do still think that $1100 for a timing belt, $650 for a starter, and $315 for bearing is expensive.

 

My bad, please accept my apologies. For some reason, took one of the posts above as you had actually changed the EGR valve to cure that particular code. Have seen it on this forum (I believe) where someone had done that.

Your maintenance program as described above sounds like mine, except that I do everything myself. Your $1,100 for a timing belt was my $350 and included : new factory (Acura) pump, t belt, upper/lower hoses, accy belts, coolant, plugs, fuel filter, oil change, checking the alternator brushes, trans flush built into that parts tab. (Got a steal of a deal on the belt and pump).

And as you noticed, my belt looked exceptionally good when it was removed. Almost stuck the sucker back in it was that good. Same thing with the pump. I saved the pump, threw out the belt (though I considered saving it, then came to my senses...) Packrat yes, but it has paid off many, many times. (fixed an alternator that had worn brushes on my expedition one friday night at 10:30 because I did not throw out an old alternator that had a screwed up stator - it had a brand new regulator/brush holder in it)

To answer your question on the light, yes, that is from experience on a 1970 Cadillac front turn signal housing. My dad and I tried to fix the problem, never went away, there was a slight crack in the housing somewhere. Did the trick.

 

Granted, I own a business so I get parts cheaper and I have the experience/tools to do my own labor, but the starter only cost me around $300 for the OEM replacement with something like a $75 core. I'd have to look it up to be exact.

I'd read internet horror stories about the starter location and replacement on these cars, but in comparison to the modular Ford Mustangs I'm used to working with as a tuner, these things are cake.

Sounds like major price gouging going on there.

 

wow i have the same reading My EGR .... THE MESSAGE READS AIR AND FUEL MIXTURE INTAKE MANIFOLD. Does this mean I am going to get that cleaned and if so how much will it cost

 

Wow I have the same reading My EGR .... THE MESSAGE READS AIR AND FUEL MIXTURE INTAKE MANIFOLD. Does this mean I am going to get that cleaned and if so how much will it cost

 

4) Same thing happened to me. A little metal pin fell out that keeps it on track. Found mine while cleaning and just popped it back in. Hasn't come out since and works fine.