Two harnesses on stock deck?

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Old 04-16-2004, 11:26 AM
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Two harnesses on stock deck?

From the information in the helm's manual, it looks like there are two wiring harnesses for the stock deck in the 1st gen TL. One is the standard 16-pin harness but what is the other 5-pin harness for?
Old 04-16-2004, 04:16 PM
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I think the other harness is for the tweeters mounted by the dome light. You can't use these after you install an aftermarket head unit.
Old 04-16-2004, 06:06 PM
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Thanks for the info. I just wasn't sure what it was for.
Old 04-16-2004, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jons543
I think the other harness is for the tweeters mounted by the dome light. You can't use these after you install an aftermarket head unit.
you can still use your tweeters after you install a aftermarket head unit!!!
Old 04-16-2004, 08:06 PM
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I am interested in using the tweeters on the dash if at all possible. Would I need a crossover though?
Old 04-16-2004, 10:38 PM
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I remember someone saying that you could splice the wires from the stock tweeters in with the wires from the harness for speakers. I haven't personally tried this but if i got some time this weekend i'd have to check the wires and try it.
Old 04-16-2004, 11:53 PM
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I bought my 97 3.2 about 3 weeks ago. The tweaters in the dome light arent working and neither are the lights in the flip down visors. I thought it was a blown fuse or something, but when I replaced it it still didn't work. What else could it be?
Old 04-17-2004, 04:40 AM
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you have 2 harnesses in your car a big one and a small one right? what i did was i got 4 t-taps and tapped the 4 wires from the small harness to the 4 front speaker wires from the big harnesses and all 4 tweekers should work!
Old 04-18-2004, 03:59 PM
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The only thing I'm wondering is whether the stock deck has some kind of crossover in it or whether the tweeters themselves have crossovers. I don't want to ruin the tweeters by hooking them directly to my aftermarket deck.
Old 04-19-2004, 07:04 AM
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The Tweeters in the dome light are used as a center channel in the factory system. They typically don't handle much power and are used with the DSP in the head unit to create a more realistic front stage. IN an aftermarket system you would typically either have a separate amp to power them at a very low level or use a DSP unit to control them. Otherwise you're better off to just not hook them up.
Old 04-19-2004, 01:40 PM
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Oh. But is is possible to hook up the tweeters on the dash?
Old 04-19-2004, 03:04 PM
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Of course you could. I'm not sure what wires it would be but as long as you could figure that out you should be able to tap into whatever's running your dash tweets.
Old 04-20-2004, 03:32 AM
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Ok, I removed my factory deck today and I found out that the blue 5pin harness is just for the dome tweeters. It seems like the dash tweeters are wired in with the front speakers. I was thinking about re-wiring either the tweeters or the front speakers but after looking at the wiring for both, I don't think I'll be able to do it. Has anyone rewired their door speakers? To me it looks like there is just no space at all to fit a wire through the rubber thing and into the doof because of the harnesses on the door itself. I want to rewire either the tweeters or the door speakers, if possible, because I am planning on the replacing the dash tweeters with more powerful ones and I don't want the power being split between them and the front speakers. Sorry for rambling, but does anyone have any suggestions?
Old 04-20-2004, 03:55 AM
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my best guess is just take out your dash and try to find a way
Old 04-20-2004, 07:05 AM
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You have to run new speaker wire to set up for an amp or a deck cause the factory wires from the speakers don't run to the deck, they run to an external amplifier in the dash somewhere. You can run a wire through the factory door loom. The wires acutallyare connected to a connector at the door side. You can unplug that and you should have several empty spots on the harness. You can drill through these spots on both the door and the harness so that you will have a pass through into the wire loom that runs to the door. Now you can feed your speaker wire through the loom and up under the dash. This is THE BEST way to do it as it will hide the wires and prevent them from being crimped in the door. the other option (the cheap way out...) is to just run the wires out from the side of the dash, and under the door panel. You can then cover them with black wireloom to make them a little less noticeable. This is the wasy mine are cause I haven't had time to run them properly, :toothless but in my integra I had run them all properly, through these harnesses. Alternatively, you can find the amplifier under the dash (I haven't been able to do so yet) and locate the wires that run to the door speakers and use those. Hope this all helps!!
Old 04-20-2004, 04:27 PM
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Thanks for all the info. When I get some time, I'm gonna try and find that amplifier in the dash. If I find anything, I'll keep you posted.
Old 04-21-2004, 03:52 AM
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I tried to find the amp but no luck. I think I'm just going to hook up the dash tweeters and front speakers as they are. This is mainly because I don't want to break anything else. I was trying to remove the dash and I broke the passenger side vent doing so....oops....but a little krazy glue fixed it. So, all I have to say is, I'm giving up on this little venture and I'm just gonna leave it as it is. If anyone does know where this amp is hiding, please post.

Thanks.
Old 04-24-2004, 09:26 PM
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Any idea where I can find pictures or instructions on how to remove the head unit to my 1997 3.2. I just need to plug my XM into the back of the head unit. I'm just not sure where to start the tear down.
Old 04-24-2004, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 97tl3.2
Any idea where I can find pictures or instructions on how to remove the head unit to my 1997 3.2. I just need to plug my XM into the back of the head unit. I'm just not sure where to start the tear down.
to remove the headunit start off my getting a flat head screw driver cover it with a cloth so you wont scratch the wood trim...a thin spatula will work for this too. now with whatever tool you choose start by sliding it inbetween the wood and dash on the passenger side. slowly pry it out i think there are about 4 clips on that long strip as you get closer to the radio be careful there are 4 clips around the headunit. be very careful because the wood is very thin and will break easily. now on the other side of the climate control by the thermostat there is one more clip pop that out and slowly pull the trim and pull everything out and the climate control is connected to the wood after that comes out unplug the harness to the climate control and you got 4 more screws around the black trim around the radio unscrew those and the entire unit will come out.

i'd recommend you pull the negative terminal off your battery for safety...but you'll need a code if you have the stock radio. if you decide not to unplug the battery just remember dont pull the harness off the back of the radio because this will result in you needing the code.

good luck and sorry for the long post i just wanted to get in as many details as i could.
Old 04-24-2004, 11:57 PM
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I wouldn't touch the trim when removing the radio. Too risky.

I had to remove my radio once to get the serial number after I changed battery and couldn't find my code card.

Anyway, on the base of the console, where it meets the floor, there's a flap on the driver's side (near the gas pedal) that just pulls out. Then you reach in there and there's two 5/16 screws that hold the radio onto a bracket. Loosen the screws and the whole unit comes out.
Old 04-25-2004, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by wackjum
I wouldn't touch the trim when removing the radio. Too risky.

I had to remove my radio once to get the serial number after I changed battery and couldn't find my code card.

Anyway, on the base of the console, where it meets the floor, there's a flap on the driver's side (near the gas pedal) that just pulls out. Then you reach in there and there's two 5/16 screws that hold the radio onto a bracket. Loosen the screws and the whole unit comes out.
this is the other way to do it and i guess the right way because thats how the dealership removes the decks or so i'm told...
Old 04-25-2004, 11:46 PM
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The trim is actually the easiest way and its pretty easy. Just make sure you have a flat metal object to pry it. Start on the very far right to remove the fake wood, just be gentle with the clips that hold it.
Old 04-26-2004, 08:09 AM
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If you are gonna CHANGE the radio, you will have to remove the woodgrain trim to mount the new bracket that will support it. Just be very careful, I've had mine off several times without incident.
Old 04-26-2004, 04:54 PM
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Yeah that is a good point Cornflake. I forgot about the bracket install.
Old 04-27-2004, 08:41 AM
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There's quite a few out there. I picked mine up at the stereo shop, think it cost me like $15 cdn. works great, nice little storage pocket underneath too...
Old 04-27-2004, 10:23 AM
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so does anyone have a diagram of what coor wires go where? whats positive and neg.

also i have a set of tweeters and was thinking about putting them into the roof. then run them off a new headunit. will the tweeters in the dash hold up or will they need to be replaced as well?
Old 04-27-2004, 12:01 PM
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I don't have a wiring diagram, but your best bet is to buy the wiring harness. Will give you all the connections and it has the colour codes. Just remember that you will have to run a new speaker wire from the deck to the speakers, as the oe headunit uses separate amps, therefor the wires going from the deck cannot be used. I used my factory speakers off of my Panasonic 45x4 watt deck for about 6months before I added the amp in and changed the speakers. They worked fine.
Old 04-27-2004, 04:11 PM
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Is your kit by metra? I just installed one by metra and it doesn't seem as secure as I hoped it would be. The instructions said to break off the top and bottom tabs, which I did, so only the side tabs are remaining. I just couldn't figure out where to screw the kit in, not even sure if it is supposed to be screwed in. Also, does the deck itself have to be screwed in as well? Right now, I just slid it in, it's pretty hard to get it to move right now but is that how it's meant to be?
Old 04-27-2004, 04:13 PM
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Do you have to re-wire? I didn't touch my wiring and I have front and rear speakers as well as the dash tweeters working fine.
Old 04-27-2004, 04:16 PM
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Nope, I forget who makes mine.
It screwd in though, that much I remember. The deck should have a strap of metal with a bunch of holes in it.you attach one end to the deck, the other to the old screw hole for the old deck, and bend it to fit...but after you install the metal cage and bend all the tabs out, then slid the deck in and attach the metal strap. Should be solid after that.
Old 04-27-2004, 04:19 PM
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The only metal thing that came with the deck is the sleeve, but it doesn't reach back as far as where the factory deck did. I don't see where the screws would go into the sleeve, considering the deck just slides into it.
Old 04-27-2004, 04:25 PM
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The screws don't go into the sleeve. It is supposed to be short. The sleeve simply clamps in by putting pressure on all surrounding ares by pressing out all of the tabs that are on it. The only part that screws into anything is the back of the deck. You attach a metal bar that is bendable. then you install the deck, bending the bar AS you are sliding the deck in to make it so it will allow you to screw it to anywhere you can from the bottom. This is mainly to hold up the back of the deck and avoid having the cd player skip.
Old 04-27-2004, 04:36 PM
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I guess I forgot to check the bottom of the deck for screw holes. I'll check it out tonight. I really appreciate the quick response.

Thanks.
Old 04-27-2004, 04:44 PM
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No problem, glad I could help. hope you can figure everything out.
Old 04-27-2004, 04:59 PM
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ok for the wiring diagram

these are the important ones...
Yellow - Battery Lead (power)
Black - Ground Lead
Red - Switched Power Lead (turns on/off when the key is in the ignition)
Orange - Illumination (allows you to dim the light)
Blue - Remote turn on ( for amps )
Antenna wire...i can't remember the color off the top of my head but we dont have power antenna's anyways

now for the speaker wires i cant remember what wire goes to what speaker but there are 4 colors Purple,White,Grey,Green those are the positive wires for all the speakers the negative wires are the same color but with a black stripe.

Hope that helped you when i can get ahold of a harness i'll tell you what matches with what
Old 04-27-2004, 08:20 PM
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If anyone needs the wiring diagram for the factory harness on the TL, just e-mail me at simgarcha@yahoo.com and I'll send it to you.
Old 11-09-2004, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AC_DADDY
so does anyone have a diagram of what coor wires go where? whats positive and neg.

also i have a set of tweeters and was thinking about putting them into the roof. then run them off a new headunit. will the tweeters in the dash hold up or will they need to be replaced as well?
this is me

i have a question because i am soooo confused

i am gonna put the tweeters in the above quote into the dash sposts.

now they have built-in crossovers so i dont care the power being split with the front door speaker. i also have a set of 6x9's that i plan to amp out in the future.

so anyways my question is if i put in all the speakers and the head unit (wired correct of course) everything will work? i already have the headunit wired up with the harness from the kit.
so will everything be ok?
there is none of tis exteral amp crap to deal with?
i dont have to rewire to all the speakers do i?
if true i cant see that being practical.

thanks alot because i am confused. just tell me that i can plug in the headunit and the speakers will work
Old 11-14-2004, 02:44 AM
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All the speakers except the two by the dome light should work no prob.
Old 11-14-2004, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by simgarcha
All the speakers except the two by the dome light should work no prob.

so what wires are they?
Old 11-14-2004, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jerseydriver
so what wires are they?
those are the wires from the other harness mentioned in the title of this thread


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