http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1853881804

This kit (1 resistor) really works on my car, you guys should try this out. Remove the IAT sensor plug, short the plug by the resistor. This mod tells your ECU that the air coming in through the intake is cold air this advances the timing, letting the engine produce more power. Remember to disconnect the battery before doing it as in the instruction.

On 3.2, the IAT sensor is located at the front left cylinder intake manifold. (left of the driver)

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hey han... hehehe (thats also my g/f name) u got nos in there??? and where is the filter for ur intake??? i thought the nos bottle was a sub... and i am a little skeptic about trying this.....

 

Viet guys often don't have name Ha^n

Yes, I have nos from Zex. I have a CAI, so the filter is under the stock air filter housing and behind the front bumper.

Try this on, you have nothing to loose besind a few bucks and 15 minutes

 

ok I don't get it.. theres all kinds of hoses and stuff hooked up to the stock intake.. are those hoses just not important? what happens to those when you take the intake out.. theres also a wire plugged into mine (I think I can't remember clearly right now) anyway yeah what happens to that stuff?

 

I surely hope to god you are not running nitrous like that.
Advancing the timing 2 more degrees puts you at 20 degrees. running even a 40 shot of nitrous at 20 degrees is ULTRA risky. Burn the electrode off the plug, it drops down in the cylinder, bounces around 1 or 2 times, then it finds its way to the edge and mars the fuk out of the cylinderwall while being forced up and down the cylinderwall 5000+ times per minute then it makes its way to the ringland and toasts the top ring and whatnot. youve got deep scratches in the wall and a toasted stock bore cylinder. Next comes the catastropic damage to the valves you have been running on the verge of destruction. If they havent allready burnt edges off into the cylinder as well they are very close at this point.

stock timing on a 3.2 is allready quite risky for small ammounts of juice. Adding more timing on top of that is not a good idea. you can put a colder plug in there and prevent plug electrode burning but, then again for 1.50 $ what do you expect out of a non stainless honda valve?? Burn one and youll regret it after 3500 dollar bill from some billygoat gruff hillbilly to fix the shiznit.

Best thing you can do is......
MSD 3 step retard or MSD timing retard module. It comes with basic instructions and a spot for a degree pill. choose from whatever degrees u want. Wires into the car ignition system then to the nitrous arm switch or the activating power supply.

Simply when you turn the juice on or when its spraying the unit retards timing whatever ammount u want from the pill u put in there.

55 shot ------> -2 degrees from stock timing so 2-18=16
65 shot-------> -4 degrees from stock timing so 18-4=14
75 shot-------> -6 degrees from stock timing so 18-6=12
and the chart goes as you add. anything 75 or over id suggest using a fuel pressure gauge, fuel pressure regulator, bigger fuel pump, and installing the nitrous fuel pressure safety switch. as well as realizing that 75 hp is entirely too much to spray with a 500 dollr nitrous kit and you need a direct port wet kit.

I am not critisizing you, nor being a ****. I just dont want to see you hurt your car. Its a very nice looking car and it appears you take excellent care of it and id hate to see u pop it like i have seen many people do from simple stuff like this and a bad tank of gas and some detonation. Even if its been going good, all it takes is one bad tank and its history.

good luck and keep up the mods car looks dope..

colt

lemme know if u need any more advice or ideas on mods

 

OH, I don't use nitrous when I advance the timing cause I'm setting 75 shots and the Zex people recommend to retard the timing 4 degree, so don't worry Thank you Colt45 for the reminding !!!

Ofcourse we shouldn't advance the timing when engine has denotation. My car doesn't have denotation and it pulls stronger, that's why I recommend people to try this.

 

Those "stuffs" are still there, still connected to new intake.

 

no need to be rude about it I was just asking a question

 

I'm really sorry to make you feel that way, I didn't intend to be rude at all.

 

So are you really going to get that much horses out of it or is that just a gimmick?

 

ok its cool.. thanks

 

My car is stronger after having it on, pretty noticeable, especially on the highway. I did not have that gain after having CAI or muffler on.

 

yea i bought that about 2 weeks ago and it really works

 

I don't believe you'll get any gain from this mod. I know I used the idle air temperature (IAT) sensor "tricker" mod on my Z28. The "tricker" I used consisted of a 10 cent resistor. This mod had many myths of increasing horsepower. I tested mine at the drag strip and could tell zero difference. And this was on a hot day.

 

Cars have different set up, that explains it works for some cars and not for others. But if it works on my 3.2, it likely works on other 3.2's. It's worth a try though.

 

How about being a pal and telling us the measurement of the resistor ( color bands around it) so we could save a lil dough and buy it from sh*t shack or any other electrical supplier . We would also have to determine if the resistance in the sensor is the same on all model year 3.2's .

 

It's Orange Orange Red Gold.