Rear Brake Pads
06-11-2003, 03:46 PM
#1
Racer
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Rear Brake Pads
Hey im looking for some help on installing some new rear brake pads, im only 16 and havent had much of ne expiereance with brakes. But looking to learn just if ne of u knew ne good step by step instructions on installing some new pads that would be great thanks
04-20-2004, 12:24 AM
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Brake pads for 2.5.TL?
What are the best brake pads to get, and where is the least expensive place to get them?
I tried kevlar pads on my Expedition and they seem to work well.
I will also need to buy a replacement master cylinder...
I tried kevlar pads on my Expedition and they seem to work well.
I will also need to buy a replacement master cylinder...
04-20-2004, 12:56 AM
#3
Safety Car
Pads are very important (well brakes in general) so I don't think you should learn on your own.
Having said that, here's the overview:
You're going to need a tool (name escapes me) that goes into the caliper and expands so that it pushes the piston back into the housing. With front brakes, you can do this with a C clamp, but rear brakes you need the tool. Without this tool, you're going to find it hard (read: impossible) to fit your calipers back over your new pads since they are thicker.
You'll also need a socket wrench or similar to open some bolts.
*This very basic guide assumes you know general car part names*
1. First take off your tire. Examine the rotor for deep scores. If it has some, you'll have to get them turned (milled is another word). This shaves off a small amount from the surface to create a nice flat surface for the pads to catch. IF there aren't any scores, AND IF you are using the same type of pads as the old ones, use some heavy grit sandpaper and sand both sides of the rotor to remove glaze. If you're using different pads, you should turn the rotor.
2. On the back of the brake mounts are two large bolts that go into the caliper. Takes these off. You can get away with taking one off on larger discs (like the front ones) but I don't remember if you can do that on the rears. If you do remove both bolts and you take the caliper off, it will dangle by the brake line. You should rest it on something instead of letting it dangle.
3. Remove the brake pads. I can't give you details here because I've forgotten, but it is pretty straightforward.
4. To get the rotor off, it is held in by two large phillips screws. They'll probably be rusted and stuck good so spray WD-40 over them and pound them with a fat screwdriver and hammer before you start unscsrewing. Otherwise you could strip the head.
5. Assemble the new brake pads. This involves clipping on a few plates of metal to the back of the pads. Pads come with a kind of grease that you should spread over the backs of the pad and between each metal plate layer. Look at the old pads for comparison.
6. Put the rotor back on. Put the new pads into the mount. The pad with the wear indicator (the metal clip) goes on the inside.
7. Secure the caliper over the new pads and replace the bolts.
8. If your old pads wore evenly, then you are basically done. If they are worn at a slant, check the slides (the little arms with the rubber accordion bushing) You can fill the bushing with disc brake grease. Usually that fixes uneven wear problems.
9. Put your tire back on. Step on the brake pedal as hard as you can several times and check your fluid level. If you've been adding brake fluid, then it might overflow the reservoir now that you have thicker pads. This is normal. REMEMBER: never use brake fluid from a container that has been opened for longer than 3 months.
10. Break in your pads with moderate braking for the first 200 miles. Don't come to a complete stop after braking hard or the pads will bond to the rotor.
Sorry, this is kind of a general guide but I think it gives you the idea of what is involved. I can't give you specific details because I haven't changed my brakes in over a year. Again, I should stress that brakes are important and you probably shouldn't work on them if there's no experienced person there to check things over.
Good luck
Having said that, here's the overview:
You're going to need a tool (name escapes me) that goes into the caliper and expands so that it pushes the piston back into the housing. With front brakes, you can do this with a C clamp, but rear brakes you need the tool. Without this tool, you're going to find it hard (read: impossible) to fit your calipers back over your new pads since they are thicker.
You'll also need a socket wrench or similar to open some bolts.
*This very basic guide assumes you know general car part names*
1. First take off your tire. Examine the rotor for deep scores. If it has some, you'll have to get them turned (milled is another word). This shaves off a small amount from the surface to create a nice flat surface for the pads to catch. IF there aren't any scores, AND IF you are using the same type of pads as the old ones, use some heavy grit sandpaper and sand both sides of the rotor to remove glaze. If you're using different pads, you should turn the rotor.
2. On the back of the brake mounts are two large bolts that go into the caliper. Takes these off. You can get away with taking one off on larger discs (like the front ones) but I don't remember if you can do that on the rears. If you do remove both bolts and you take the caliper off, it will dangle by the brake line. You should rest it on something instead of letting it dangle.
3. Remove the brake pads. I can't give you details here because I've forgotten, but it is pretty straightforward.
4. To get the rotor off, it is held in by two large phillips screws. They'll probably be rusted and stuck good so spray WD-40 over them and pound them with a fat screwdriver and hammer before you start unscsrewing. Otherwise you could strip the head.
5. Assemble the new brake pads. This involves clipping on a few plates of metal to the back of the pads. Pads come with a kind of grease that you should spread over the backs of the pad and between each metal plate layer. Look at the old pads for comparison.
6. Put the rotor back on. Put the new pads into the mount. The pad with the wear indicator (the metal clip) goes on the inside.
7. Secure the caliper over the new pads and replace the bolts.
8. If your old pads wore evenly, then you are basically done. If they are worn at a slant, check the slides (the little arms with the rubber accordion bushing) You can fill the bushing with disc brake grease. Usually that fixes uneven wear problems.
9. Put your tire back on. Step on the brake pedal as hard as you can several times and check your fluid level. If you've been adding brake fluid, then it might overflow the reservoir now that you have thicker pads. This is normal. REMEMBER: never use brake fluid from a container that has been opened for longer than 3 months.
10. Break in your pads with moderate braking for the first 200 miles. Don't come to a complete stop after braking hard or the pads will bond to the rotor.
Sorry, this is kind of a general guide but I think it gives you the idea of what is involved. I can't give you specific details because I haven't changed my brakes in over a year. Again, I should stress that brakes are important and you probably shouldn't work on them if there's no experienced person there to check things over.
Good luck
04-20-2004, 12:07 PM
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I'll be replacing my fronto rotors in the near future, gonna go cross drilled and gonna switch to ceramic pads, better stopping, LESS dust..IMAGINE THAT!!!
04-21-2004, 02:09 PM
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i just ordered cross drilled/slotted rotors from ebay.. 234 shipped..... they should arrive soon.... as for the brake pads... i heard AXXIS METAL MASTERS ARE THE WORST!!!... the best thing to use is OEM... but if you really wanna be a baller.. get HAWK HPS or GREENSTUFF brake pads..
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04-22-2004, 07:49 AM
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I just ordered RotoTEk Cross Drilled for mine. I had Powerstop Cross-Drilled on my Integra with Green Stuff pads...stopped CRAZY fast...but shedded way too much dust. New rotors are coming with ceramic pads. SUpposed to be really easy onthe wheels...we'll see.
04-22-2004, 08:50 AM
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Nore, I don't really think there is any particular "best type" of pad for any particular car. It's all about preference in general. I had full metallic pads on my integra, worked great, but shed TONNES of dust, the ceramics are supposed to work well too, and with a lot less dust. There's always carbon fiber too, but they take a long time to heat up and work properly, they may not stop properly when you first start driving. It's all about how much you want to spend, and what features you like. Everything I've heard tell me that I think ceramics are the best bang for the buch for stopping power and low dust. 
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