Oil Filter Help

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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 12:09 PM
  #1  
dougal813's Avatar
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From: Long Valley, NJ
Oil Filter Help

I have a question about an oil filter. I am currently using the Mobil 1 Extended Life Synthetic Oil which says it lasts 15,000 miles. I am also using a Fram filter which says it should be changed every 5,000 miles or so.

Should I be changing my filter every 5,000 miles even though I am using Synthetic oil? If so, is there a filter that will last longer than 5,000 miles?

Thanks.
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 12:19 PM
  #2  
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No. You do not have to change filter. I wouldn't wait until 15,000 miles to change the oil either. The mileage will depend on your style of driving and the condition of the climate. Just change it at around 7.5K miles, or at least check the oil when you're at that mileage.


What size engine do you have? If you have the 3.2, Skip the Fram and get yourself the Purolator filter.
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 11:46 AM
  #3  
cambo's Avatar
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Originally Posted by GSteg
No. You do not have to change filter. I wouldn't wait until 15,000 miles to change the oil either. The mileage will depend on your style of driving and the condition of the climate. Just change it at around 7.5K miles, or at least check the oil when you're at that mileage.


What size engine do you have? If you have the 3.2, Skip the Fram and get yourself the Purolator filter.
even if you have the 2.5, skip fram and get a purolator pureOne filter.
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 12:22 PM
  #4  
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yup.



I like the pureOne filter, but they don't make it for the 3.2


I compared my purolator for my 3.2 against LHD's fram and not only does the purolator have better construction, but the capacity is at least 25% bigger.



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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 05:17 PM
  #5  
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From: Malden, MA
How do Purolators compare against the oil filters sold by the dealership? I usually use Honda Oil Filters (dunno who makes them for Honda) - costs me about $7.
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 05:33 PM
  #6  
GSteg's Avatar
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Originally Posted by bpjadhav
How do Purolators compare against the oil filters sold by the dealership? I usually use Honda Oil Filters (dunno who makes them for Honda) - costs me about $7.

There are various honda filters.

Some are made by fram ( ) and some are made by Toyo Roki ( )


Depending on what engine you have, you may get the Toyo Roki version. They are usually about $12 USD.

I use purolator because it is effective enough and doesn't cost too much (5.99 )
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 12:12 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by GSteg
yup.



I like the pureOne filter, but they don't make it for the 3.2


I compared my purolator for my 3.2 against LHD's fram and not only does the purolator have better construction, but the capacity is at least 25% bigger.



can't even get my initials right -_-'

oh yeah...which reminds me last time gsteg was changing my oil he showed me a great tool to remove the oil filters, since the tl filter is such a pain in the ass to remove sometimes.
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 12:27 AM
  #8  
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yea. you can find that tool at autozone, but Its the best oil filter remover, at least for me. no more messing around with pliers, caps, etc. And it's quick too. lol.



I was thinking of Left Hand Drive when i thought of your name. lol.
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 07:49 AM
  #9  
Mandy's Avatar
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From: Marietta
3.2 Oild Filter is the easiest to take down.

Oil Filters are not recommended for replacement until 15,000 miles anyway, check your manual, am I right?
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 02:18 PM
  #10  
cambo's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Mandy
3.2 Oild Filter is the easiest to take down.

Oil Filters are not recommended for replacement until 15,000 miles anyway, check your manual, am I right?
You can change your oil filter every 15,000 miles like the manual says if you want to be in the dealer looking for a new car in 4-5 years.

You should always change the oil filter when you change the oil, or 7,500 miles...whatever comes first.

Is there any harm to changing the oil and oil filter more often? No. It can only help keep your engine running longer.

Is there any harm keeping oil in the car after its life has died (can be 3,000 miles to 15,000 miles depending on the oil and the condition of your car)? Hell yes. You could end up blowing your motor.

Play it safe and change your oil often. Its not that expensive to change your oil if you do it yourself, roughly $20.
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 02:44 PM
  #11  
Acura03's Avatar
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I'm a newbie here.

I usually take my Acura (2001 3.2 TL) to the dealer for oil/filter change every time
since I bought it. After all these years.. finally I wanted to get my hands dirty by
changing the oil/filter myself. I'm looking for some help to jumpstart my first venture.

Are there any how to do sites, links, manuals, tips, tricks ?
Appreciate your replies.

Thanks
Acura03
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 04:30 PM
  #12  
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From: westminster, ca
Originally Posted by Acura03
I'm a newbie here.

I usually take my Acura (2001 3.2 TL) to the dealer for oil/filter change every time
since I bought it. After all these years.. finally I wanted to get my hands dirty by
changing the oil/filter myself. I'm looking for some help to jumpstart my first venture.

Are there any how to do sites, links, manuals, tips, tricks ?
Appreciate your replies.

Thanks
Acura03

here is a simple breakdown on how to change your motor oil.

You'll want to get a pan so that the old oil will be stored in it. Ask LDH what happened when I got lazy and did the ghetto way

I can't remember the bolt size for the oil drain plug, but I think it's 14mm. I dont remember off hand. Not sure if that applies to your car, but it should.


So here is what you do:

Let the engine cool down if you haven't already.

1. Using a jack and a pair of floor stands, lift up the car until you can comfortably get under there without touching any part of the car with your body. It is best to also get some wheel chokes (simple things that prevents the car from rolling). Pull the E-brake on.

2. Place the oil pan right under the drain bolt.

3. Open up the oil cap (this way, the oil drains faster).

4. Open up the drain bolt all the way and let all the old engine oil out. In the end, it will keep on dripping. I would wait a few more minutes just to make sure I get as much oil out as possible.

5. Bolt back the drain bolt

6. Using an oil filter tool, take out the oil filter, but place the pan underneath it also because there is still oil inside the oil filter.

7. Now time to replace the old filter with the new one. Open up your new bottle of oil, dip your finger in and then spread some oil onto the oil filter thread.

8. Screw the new filter back onto the engine.

9. Pour the fresh new oil into the engine (as much as it needs). Check the oil dipstick periodically to ensure you dont overfill the engine.

10. Lower the car after you take out the floor stand and wheel choke.

11. Fire up the engine then get underneath the car to check for leaks. You'll want to run the engine until its at normal operating temperature because the oil will get thinner when the engine is hot. This will make it much easier for the oil to leak, but this is also why you're checking it.


It may seem like there is a lot to do, but it is really simple. Do it once and you'll think making your own food is harder
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 02:18 PM
  #13  
TL-Ridaz96's Avatar
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From: California
where can I buy the purolator oil filter at? I usually use Fram change it every 3k. Fram I got it for $3 each, or $6 for 2. And I believe me 3k drving is enough to make your oil from light brown to black.
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 02:26 PM
  #14  
SodaLuvr's Avatar
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
So, what if its black? Its doing its job.

Fram=overpriced...use a Supertech, made by Champion Labs. Cost? $2.07 at Walmart.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance, I have not seen it last 15K, at least not yet. Too soon to tell. I'd run it for 10K then do an analysis to see if it can go further. I wouldn't worry about the filter.

As long it isn't clogged up, simple test if you don't mind getting burned is to touch the filter after a long drive, should be hot.

As long as the filter does not interfere with flow, leak, or fall apart, its fine.

Michael
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 05:36 PM
  #15  
DJRamzy's Avatar
2003 Acura MDX
 
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
Originally Posted by GSteg
here is a simple breakdown on how to change your motor oil.

You'll want to get a pan so that the old oil will be stored in it. Ask LDH what happened when I got lazy and did the ghetto way

I can't remember the bolt size for the oil drain plug, but I think it's 14mm. I dont remember off hand. Not sure if that applies to your car, but it should.


So here is what you do:

Let the engine cool down if you haven't already.

1. Using a jack and a pair of floor stands, lift up the car until you can comfortably get under there without touching any part of the car with your body. It is best to also get some wheel chokes (simple things that prevents the car from rolling). Pull the E-brake on.

2. Place the oil pan right under the drain bolt.

3. Open up the oil cap (this way, the oil drains faster).

4. Open up the drain bolt all the way and let all the old engine oil out. In the end, it will keep on dripping. I would wait a few more minutes just to make sure I get as much oil out as possible.

5. Bolt back the drain bolt

6. Using an oil filter tool, take out the oil filter, but place the pan underneath it also because there is still oil inside the oil filter.

7. Now time to replace the old filter with the new one. Open up your new bottle of oil, dip your finger in and then spread some oil onto the oil filter thread.

8. Screw the new filter back onto the engine.

9. Pour the fresh new oil into the engine (as much as it needs). Check the oil dipstick periodically to ensure you dont overfill the engine.

10. Lower the car after you take out the floor stand and wheel choke.

11. Fire up the engine then get underneath the car to check for leaks. You'll want to run the engine until its at normal operating temperature because the oil will get thinner when the engine is hot. This will make it much easier for the oil to leak, but this is also why you're checking it.


It may seem like there is a lot to do, but it is really simple. Do it once and you'll think making your own food is harder



awesome post, man I wanna change my oil now, even though everything got changed like 1500 miles ago..



Also, LDH, what happened when he did it the ghetto way?
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 06:18 PM
  #16  
Matt97TL2.5's Avatar
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From: Williamsville, NY
Thumbs up Oil Filter breakdown and compare

I found this a few years ago and found it to be pretty accurate

Oil filter overview
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 06:43 PM
  #17  
GSteg's Avatar
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EDIT: it's 17mm for the bolt, not 14mm. According to LDH
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 06:44 PM
  #18  
GSteg's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Matt97TL2.5
I found this a few years ago and found it to be pretty accurate

Oil filter overview

awesome stuff here
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 06:52 PM
  #19  
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The Purolator is a solid design. It seems to have one of the tougher paper filter elements of the low-end filters and the bypass valve is built right into the cartridge. There are no internal sealing problems with this filter at all. There is an assembly string that is wrapped around the filter element, probably to hold it in place while the glue cures in the end caps. All the other Purolator-made filters (8 in all) had no trouble, and even the damaged one would probably have been fine. I usually go with these in a pinch.

W00t!





Did I mention it's bigger than the regular fram too?


I've been using these for awhile now. Cost/Benefit, they are hard to beat, unless you can find better for $6?
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 12:35 AM
  #20  
LDH's Avatar
LDH
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From: So Cal
Originally Posted by DJBLAST
awesome post, man I wanna change my oil now, even though everything got changed like 1500 miles ago..



Also, LDH, what happened when he did it the ghetto way?

he made the biggest oil spot ever on the driveway Then when he was changing the filter on the tl he dropped it and spilled some more...

And he never finished detailing the tl
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