can someone please list detailed instructions on how to change both the front and rear rotors...my mechanic wants to charge up the A$$ to change them...thanks

 

I really don't know anything about changing rotors and I can understand not wanting to pay to much.. but think about it these are the things that make your car stop do you really want to do it when you need to check online to find out how? maybe you should ask around and see if you know someone who knows how or just pay

 

I've never done rotors on my Acura, but I've done them on my Aurora and they are pretty easy. Basics are remove the tire, remove the caliper and brake pads (don't let it dangle), I think that there are bolt holding the rotor in place remove those, slide the rotor off and then follow the steps backwards. A few suggestions, get good rotors, x-drilled and slotted, ceramic pads (low dust/noise), use the old brake pad and a c-clamp to push the caliper back in...this way you don't have to bleed the brakes....just work it slow and it's pretty easy. The step on the pedal for the caliper to come back out and you are done. No heavy braking for the first 200 miles or so.

Also, search this forum some more...they should have this info.

 

http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83798 is the thread that I was refering to. Also, I like Raybestos for brake parts

 

Just feel the need to add: for good street performance, x-drilled and slotted may be unnecessary. Generally, anything that reduces the surface of the rotor can reduce brake function. Basically, the more surface area of the rotor for the pad to grab, the better. X-drilled and slotted are supposed to serve two basic functions: provide an area for gasses to disperse (reduce fade during repeated braking) and reduce the rotational mass of the rotor (increase whp). Realize that both do so at the expense of surface area. Some think x-drilled takes too much mass away and threatens the integrity of the rotor.

If you brake a lot and want to reduce fade, or are looking to maximize the power at the wheels, maybe slotted is good. I think x-drilled is just bling, personally. However, if you really just want the most brake power for average driving and best one-time stopping power, bigger rotors and pads are what you're looking for. Note, your tires make a bigger difference in your stopping ability, though!

Oh, and brake jobs are easy. I know their purpose is very important but they're just not mechanically that hard. The instructions above are simple and accurate. Important note can't be emphasized enough: don't let the caliper dangle. They're heavier than they look and you don't want to strain your brake line. Just get a box or something to rest them on.

 

AEM has performance pads for our cars front pads run $85 and rears run $60. Both 3.2 and 2.5 95-98.

 

Ok Sonic, no offense but x-drilled and slotted rotors are more than just "Bling". Why do you think almost ALL forms of racing use them on their cars? x-drilling or slotting rotors actually performs THREE functions, reduces the unsprung weight of the suspension, provides for evacuation of gasses during hard braking, AND cools the rotor more effectively. These function together to help reduce brake fade AND increase rotor longevity. I installed a set on my '98 Integra and WHAT a difference fade went down to almost NIL. I'm ordering some for my '98 3.2 in a few weeks and I can't WAIT to feel the benefits. TL's are a great candidate for better rotors and pads as they are fairly heavy for the size of the rotor they come with. Upgrading the rotors to x-drilled and installing ceramic or metallic pads will GREATLY improve brake fade and the tendency of the rotors to shake under hard barking. If you can afford the extra 1 or 2 hundred bucks which is usually about the difference when changing both fronts or rears, I would go with x-drilled and good pads, WELL worth the investment. Just my $0.02

 

where did you order your rotors?

 

Haven't yet, but will be ordering through a friend who owns a mechanic's shop. Works mostly on Mustangs, but he does import for a few of us guys...he know's we'll never drive 5.0's or 4.6's.......actually he enjoys working on the imports, but he'd never admit it...lol

 

No offense taken - opinions are opinions. You're right, a lot of race cars use x-d/sl but I think racing cars use them because they're gunning for ABSOLUTE least weight and fade. If a rotor cracks or warps on them, well, that's bad luck, just like an engine going from pushing too hard. My comments applied to someone looking for good daily driving performance type of braking. I think a larger rotor/caliper combo siginificantly increase the friction area and the slotting can definitely aid out-gassing. However, I think anything more than that has VERY diminishing marginal returns and could potentially cause problems with the integrity of the rotor. I mean, you're removing material from the rotor - at its essence, that says it can't be quite as strong. Even slotting implies that, but it's just to a lesser degree.

I think we're saying the same things about brakes in general, it just depends on what the driver's purpose is.

 

both of you are right you're just talking about different situations haha.. personally I need to get brakes that are either slotted or cross drilled because I notice break fade a lot and it drives me nuts.. ofcourse I also want to get bigger breaks.. does anyone know of any big brake kits that would fit our cars? 3.2 specifically

 

I get my Raybestos parts from www.rockauto.com...prices are about the best I've found.

 

Changing rotors is pretty hard to do. I tried it and was forced to take my car to a mechanic

 

Changing the rotors isn't that bad. just take off the wheel, remove the caliper from it's mouting bracket by removing the two bolts that hold it there, losen the two screws that hold on the rotor (I recommend putting the screwdriver into the screw, then giving it a couple of taps with a hammer to losen it first so you don't strip it) remove the rotor. Installing the new ones is the reverse of removing the old ones. Make sure you use NEW pads as well, and re-use any shims that are there. Hope this helps.