Cooling fan & melted cam sensor question
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Cooling fan & melted cam sensor question
Q1: I did a tune up/timing belt & co job recently and after I got my car back I noticed that the cooling fan didn't come on while the car was on. I was under the impression that the cooling fan is always on - even if it's -30c outside and you just turned that car on.
So can someone tell me if the fan is always supposed to be on or does it only turn on when the engine becomes hot. My car isn't overheating, and the needle is just below the middle. Oh, and also I got a new thermostat just in case.
Q2: When changing the timing belt & co my mechanic found that the cam sensor had melted. The wires were exposed and the black silicon-like substance just ran/dripped down into the engine bay. So has anyone else had that problem, if so did you guys replace the sensor?
So can someone tell me if the fan is always supposed to be on or does it only turn on when the engine becomes hot. My car isn't overheating, and the needle is just below the middle. Oh, and also I got a new thermostat just in case.
Q2: When changing the timing belt & co my mechanic found that the cam sensor had melted. The wires were exposed and the black silicon-like substance just ran/dripped down into the engine bay. So has anyone else had that problem, if so did you guys replace the sensor?
#2
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ans to Q1. cooling fan is not on always. It comes on when the engine reaches certain temp.
Try turning ac on and idle the car, the fan should come on eventually.
It is probably the new coolant that keeping the engine cooler than before.
A2. I have seen camsensor after my engine had 245k and was replaced. My mechanic told me that this is how it looks and after certain mileage, they all melt a little. not a big deal.
as far as the exposed wire, your mechanic knows best as to what is going on.
Try turning ac on and idle the car, the fan should come on eventually.
It is probably the new coolant that keeping the engine cooler than before.
A2. I have seen camsensor after my engine had 245k and was replaced. My mechanic told me that this is how it looks and after certain mileage, they all melt a little. not a big deal.
as far as the exposed wire, your mechanic knows best as to what is going on.
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Thanks for the answers meazz1. I drove 40 minutes today in ~0c temperature, and once I arrived at my destination the fans still weren't running. I would try the a/c trick, but my a/c is broken, so I'll have to wait until I get it fixed.
Well I got the sensor replaced since it's a pain in the ass to get to it, and I didn't feel like spending big bucks on extra labor later on. The sensor is pretty damn expensive - came out to 340ish after taxes, and I it had to be brought in from Toronto which is 600km away... It's becoming hard to get parts for these cars.
Well I got the sensor replaced since it's a pain in the ass to get to it, and I didn't feel like spending big bucks on extra labor later on. The sensor is pretty damn expensive - came out to 340ish after taxes, and I it had to be brought in from Toronto which is 600km away... It's becoming hard to get parts for these cars.
#4
If you short thermoswitch A (on lower radiator driver's side on 2.5TL, ~ same position on pax side for 3.2TL), both fans should continuously run when keyswitch is ON. If they don't, then fans are defective, defective wiring, defective fan relays (separate for each fan), or blown fuse/s (again separate).
good luck
good luck
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