Brakes
#1
Brakes
Recently needed new brake pads on my 3.2tl. Do these things eat up brakes or what? After 2 months, it seems like I need another brake job. I'm not harsh on the brakes and also don't brake at the last minute. I didn't get the chance to check the pads out but now its making a horrid sound as I am on the brakes. Could it be the rotors? What would you guys recommend for brakes. I'm not in the mood to run to auto zone and pick up their recommended brakes. Minus whale spend a little more money on something quality than have to change it soon after.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
Originally Posted by Blah Too Sleepy
Recently needed new brake pads on my 3.2tl. Do these things eat up brakes or what? After 2 months, it seems like I need another brake job. I'm not harsh on the brakes and also don't brake at the last minute. I didn't get the chance to check the pads out but now its making a horrid sound as I am on the brakes. Could it be the rotors? What would you guys recommend for brakes. I'm not in the mood to run to auto zone and pick up their recommended brakes. Minus whale spend a little more money on something quality than have to change it soon after.
Thanks
Thanks
It probably doesn't need new brakes. Does the noise go away if you press harder on the pedal? If so, search the other posts about bedding the brakes. If not, then there is something mechanically wrong.
#6
Check your calipers. I had a bad driver side rear caliper that was always on so when i drove, I was braking too. Gay wasteing gas at these prices. I knew it was busted but was lazy to change it just changed the pads the first time. The pads lasted for 2months. I finally changed the caliper and everythings great now. I got a rebuilt caliper for 120bucks.
Trending Topics
#9
if you let the pads go too long when in need of replacement, the piston pushes out of the caliper. Over time this can fuck the caliper up. Then you get a dragging caliper, which in result dousches the pads on that side and causes it to pull to one side sometimes..
Either way, autozone sells a few good items,, those items consist of mobil 1 synthetic oil, antifreeze, and wiper fluid.. Besides that i wouldnt go in there to borrow toilet paper if i was out..
Autozone reccomended pads are about as good as tits on a bull.. I got remanufactured raybestos nsx calipers, but thats just stock parts that has new seals and is slightly bored out. Judging by the nsx, id assume most people who send them cores for their nsx calipers dont own some ragged out peice of shit caliper. So the calipers are good to begin with..
As far as pads, i dont run shitty pads on anything..
The ua 3.2 uses a rotor designed for a car that weighs 2500 lbs.. Its garbage. If i were you and pulling the shit apart again, id just get 28mm rotors off the 95 legend gs and either legend calipers or nsx ones..
Then for pads, run a carbotec, axxis metal master, pbm metal master, whatever you like.. The better the pad the better the performance.. I use project mu NS pads.. No problems at all..
I beat the fuck out of my brakes also, we are talking like 120 off exit ramp and not even pressing the brakes till the end of the off chute..
Remember when you brake also if its harsh braking, after a few seconds of braking if you can, lift off the brakes for a breif sec, then get back onto them..
I used to do this when i road raced and conciderably saved rotors.. Just that few moments is enough to let the rotor cool down a little, the pad will still be hot also, often times when you get back on the brakes it even stops better being cooler.. Hard braking for extensive periods of time without lifting off will eat the rotors more than a prostitute eats penis day to day.
If you got budget rotors, and ceramic pads when you last replaced the shit the pads have eaten the rotors it sounds.. VIP for the front brakes is the best rotor you can get, and a good pad.. Ceramic pads will eat rotors more than metallic ones.
Just my .02 abe's
peace
Either way, autozone sells a few good items,, those items consist of mobil 1 synthetic oil, antifreeze, and wiper fluid.. Besides that i wouldnt go in there to borrow toilet paper if i was out..
Autozone reccomended pads are about as good as tits on a bull.. I got remanufactured raybestos nsx calipers, but thats just stock parts that has new seals and is slightly bored out. Judging by the nsx, id assume most people who send them cores for their nsx calipers dont own some ragged out peice of shit caliper. So the calipers are good to begin with..
As far as pads, i dont run shitty pads on anything..
The ua 3.2 uses a rotor designed for a car that weighs 2500 lbs.. Its garbage. If i were you and pulling the shit apart again, id just get 28mm rotors off the 95 legend gs and either legend calipers or nsx ones..
Then for pads, run a carbotec, axxis metal master, pbm metal master, whatever you like.. The better the pad the better the performance.. I use project mu NS pads.. No problems at all..
I beat the fuck out of my brakes also, we are talking like 120 off exit ramp and not even pressing the brakes till the end of the off chute..
Remember when you brake also if its harsh braking, after a few seconds of braking if you can, lift off the brakes for a breif sec, then get back onto them..
I used to do this when i road raced and conciderably saved rotors.. Just that few moments is enough to let the rotor cool down a little, the pad will still be hot also, often times when you get back on the brakes it even stops better being cooler.. Hard braking for extensive periods of time without lifting off will eat the rotors more than a prostitute eats penis day to day.
If you got budget rotors, and ceramic pads when you last replaced the shit the pads have eaten the rotors it sounds.. VIP for the front brakes is the best rotor you can get, and a good pad.. Ceramic pads will eat rotors more than metallic ones.
Just my .02 abe's
peace
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GWEEDOspeedo
Car Parts for Sale
4
01-15-2016 10:39 PM
lanechanger
Member Cars for Sale
4
10-13-2015 10:56 AM