CV boots are torn and I figure I wont go cheap and just try to patch things up. Its time to replace the axles. Did my homework and several of the Legend owners suggested I go to www.raxles.com

Quote is $119.95 each. They are NOT refurbished and come with a lifetime guarantee.

Before I do this.. does anyone have anything to add?

 

Group buy? Hehe.

We're all getting up to around that mileage...

 

Check your CV boots frequently.. every one of you guys.

If you have a vibration at around 55 mph (at least in the 3.2), its probably due to bent axles.

 

probably I'll have to get mine checked

 

how many miles you got on yours? Had mine up on the lift the other day, and my mechanic pointed out that it looked like the boots were gonna tear soon. He recommened just replacing the boots before the crack and spew grease verywhere. Just wondering how many miles you have since I may go the same route as you and buy axles instead. What are the tell tale signs of a bent axle - apart from vibration at 55mph.

 

I'm at 138,000 miles or so

The vibration is the number 1 sign in our cars that the axle needs replacing.

You'll hear clicking noises if you do slow figure 8 turns in a parking lot.. that means the outer joint is going out.

A clunking noise on acceleration or braking is a good sign that the inner joint is going.

 

Ken... did you ever decide to do this???

 

Raxles sounds like a good outfit, but I would stick w/ original axles unless there are symptoms such as vibration or clicking. If you replace a boot before it tears, or very shortly after it tears, you can salvage the CV axle. I've done this on two CV axles that had ruptured boots.

Here is Houston you can buy so-called "rebuilt axles" for $50-$70, all over town. I went to one of these rebuild shops to get a boot installed, and saw how they "rebuild". In summary, they separate CV jt, swab most of old grease out, install new glob of grease, install new boot over shaft, reconnect joint, and close boot. It takes about 5 minutes. No checking for worn parts or post-assembly checks, nothing. It looks good superficially, but unless the axle had no problems in the first place, you have same problems as original axle.

Ken, if you buy from Raxles, post your overall impression and results.

good luck

 

Yeah I've got vibrations and they're getting worse. Ordered the axles from Raxles and installing them this week hopefully.

BTW, their sales staff is VERY helpful and respond quickly to questions.

 

u try changing out the diff fluid and tranny screen first??? that could resolve the problem... unless it is clearly visible that your boots and axles are leaking and you have clicking when you have the steering wheel completely locked to one side..

 

Both boots are leaking, so it needs to be done.

I'm going to change the diff fluid and tranny screen as well. Spring cleaning!

 

Install/Replacement is very easy... seems difficult because your dealing with big components... struts, ball joints etc... but its pretty easy

 

Ken, did you replace your axles? If so, what is your overall impression of raxles so far. I've a torn CV boot and I'm considering my options. Replacing the boot is going to cost me around 150 bucks (parts and labor). I'm currently at 114K miles. My axle is not making any clicking noises yet. I'm having a hard time deciding!

 

I did. Overall impression is that they are perfect. The car is smooth and drives like it came straight from the new car lot.

If the boot is torn, you might as well replace the axle in my opinion.

 

Ken,
Thanks for the advice. I guess I am paranoid about remanufactured axles. Since I've no clue how long my CV boots have been torn, I think I'll go with an axle from raxles for the passenger side (the side with the torn boot) and change the CV boot on the driver side so that it doesn't tear in the near future!

 

Mine were not remanufactured.. they're completely new and have a warranty

 

I have done some really difficult stuff in my lifetime and rebuild just about anything and have done axles before on other cars, but this Acura 3.2TL is starting to drive me nuts here. Have had a few projects going on, but here is the question -

When I am installing the axle (Have a new one and a rebuilt one) when the circlip (wire ring in the groove) goes in, it seems to catch and not want go to in any further. I removed the original one fine, no problem.

Is there a trick to lining it up, or sliding it in?

-Have lubed up the splines and the ring
-Have tried the original one, and it is hard also

Don't want to pull out a hammer.

Mitchell on demand does not say anything about lining up, hitting, or anything - It simply says to Reverse the procedures - but it does talk about prying it to get it off.

Makes the Chrysler FWD minivan really easy - they do not have a clip.

 

Answered my own question -

Went out after dinner and thinking about it. Removed the ring from the original axle and it slid in pretty easy, no keying, and rotated it to make sure. Then I took the ring off the new one. Slid right in.'

After looking at the original ring and it looked a. o. k. and in all honesty if I measured it, it could have been a little smaller than the aftermarket one. Used some petroleum jelly to hold it in the center, and like you say, it snapped right in.

SO, never break out the 3 lb sledge...

 

I'll be in need of new axles soon, too. Too many launches at the strip, hehe, adding to the fact that I'm over 236,000 miles now...

~Cheers~

 

Well, wanted to close on the repair. Buttoned everything up, and it is running fine so far. Will check everything over tonight after putting about 50 miles on it.

Ended up putting on KYB Shocks on a 3.2TL and Eibach Springs, along with the new axles. How did I do the shocks? Search the threads.

 

Absolutely. I detail at my local Acura Dealership, and my buddy tech who does all my work says he would charge me MUCH more to just replace the boots. Re-greasing and replacing the CV boot is probably the dirtiest job a technician can do, so in terms of parts and labor together, sometimes you can get a whole new axle for not much more than labor on the boots themselves.

 

Ive had poor luck with raxles breaking in my DA b16a car. I gave up on them and got driveshaft shop ones.

I dont know how it is now but maybe its changed after a few years.

I know most of the time the vibration comes from the balance weight(rubber deal on axle) moving or the grease in the axle slinging out and the joint wearing out. I had no idea the entire axle shafts were prone to bending in this chassis though?

What im curious is if i can use the stock tl axles in a legend 6 speed trans, and what the tl rear trans bracket looks like compared to the legend 6 speed one. If its how i think it will be i bet its a direct swap. I know the engine bays are identical, and the firewalls look pretty similar. Id bet the dash would bolt right in also....

 

anyone wanna do a diy on this

 

time to shop.!!! thanks for the advice.. need to change bearing and axle errrrrr more money!!..i might as well change my lower ball joint too while im at it,sitting in my box for years

does the new axles come grease already??

 

Yes, grease is already applied and the boots are installed. Just gotta swap the old axles with the news.

 

thanks

 

wish i had seen this earlier, i paid $60 each for brand new axles, had to pay $20 to ship one but $140 for the pair was the cheapest i could find for 2.5TL

 

sound like its rebuild

 

Brand new straight from the manufacturer. Actually it was a little less than what I mentioned because I get a discount.

 

not bad ,website?

 

DIY...we will forever be grateful. Will somebody do a DIY? Please?