I went to the dealer the other day and was told that I need a new rear left wheel bearing and new rear pads and rotors. I go today to get the bearing changed, and now they're telling me that I also need to change the front left wheel bearing and the front pads with rotors AND they got the wheel bearing price wrong - it's actually 370 with taxes. The rotors and pads are 400-something + tax in front and ~550 in the rear.

Can any of you tell me if they're giving me completely retarded prices here? If yes, would it be wise to go to a Honda dealer or maybe look at another Acura dealership?

Could someone clarify what happens when a wheel bearing breaks, and am I getting bullshitted when told that the rotors have to be changed because "they're old and rusted" even though they don't look like they are? If you ask me, the car breaks marvelously.

Any help is appreciated since I'm tight on money and I don't want to get screwed right now.

 

If they want to replace your rotors purely because they are "old and rusty", tell the service people in no uncertain terms to fuck off and leave promptly.

Why was it in the shop in the first place? If the car is braking perfectly well, I'd demand some serious 'splainin as to what's so wrong that they need to be replaced at over $1000. Wheel bearings sometimes fail randomly but it seems unlikely you would have 3 bad ones and not notice. Symptoms of bad wheel bearings are groaning/whining/screeching noises that vary with speed or are only present at certain speeds. Sometimes they'll make noise when turning. Sometimes they'll vibrate or even violently shake the whole car. If you jack the car up and wiggle the wheel around (like you were trying to take it off but it's still bolted on) any free play might indicate a bad wheel bearing.

If you have none of these symptoms your scammy senses should tingling.

 

Ok thanks for clearing that up. The car wasn't really in the shop. I just went to get my oil changed there last Friday, and they very conveniently checked the wheels too . Thats when they found the supposed problems.

So I guess the whole story about the brakes is just a load of shit, since I don't feel anything wrong. The reason why I was hesitating is that, on my old Camry I drove the pads to the point where they were making such bad noise it was unbelievable. And even when I went to get the pads changed the guy told me I needed new discs. The funny thing is that I drove the car for another 6-8 months before selling it, and there were no problems with the brakes whatsoever.

Today I was told that the left rear bearing is almost gone and should be changed as soon as possible, but the front left one has to be changed in the next couple of weeks. I'd like to jack the car up, but I have no possibility to do so now. The problem is that in 2 days I have to drive to Toronto, the whole distance there and back is ~1200km. When I went to the dealership last Friday, he told me that I shouldn't drive to Toronto for example, even before I told him that I had to.

 

screw dealers, Rotor 145-160 ( each ) + tax pads 65-85 + tax . wast of money if u really want to change it change to oem it would coast u about 300 something inc labor


i got the rear pards for 25 $ each and 50 $ pards + 40 $ labor

 

dealer prices are always high- why were you even letting them change the oil? at least they did a safety inspection and found a serious problem
IF your rotors were rusty after you drove to the shop- that means the calipers are not pushing the pads against them!
I dont care how they feel compared to a camry- if something is not working- its a problem
On gen2 cars I have replaced calipers that were not working at all or very little. That will glaze the pads and wear the rotors funny and dealer would want to replace.

DO NOT DRIVE with known bad wheel bearings. What happens is- at freeway speed the entire wheel assembly departs the car and you slow quite suddenly~
hopefully you can retrieve the rim and tire and reuse them.
A rental car or fix the car is your choice, unless you have really good insurance, but they would find out you had known problem before the trip and not pay-

 

I let them change the oil since, it's cheaper than penzoil for example and I can't do it my self in this weather. I didn't really understand what you said about the rotors. I would hear and feel them going bad wouldn't I?

Thanks for informing me about what happens if the bearing goes; I didn't know that it's so bad.

The thing is; I'd love to have all those things repaired, but I just don't have the money right now. I'm sure that if they would of checked the rest of the car, not just the wheels, they would of found all sorts of other problems. It sucks that I don't have my own mechanic, that way I could get an unbiased inspection. Right now, the dealership just wants so suck as much cash out of me as possible and I don't really trust small mechanics, just because I have never seen a good small shop in my life. It's as if all small shops employ a bunch of alcoholics.

I guess I'll go get one of the bearings changed tomorrow and see what to do about the other one.

 

man i am coming to montreal on friday... too bad it is still freakin freezing outside or i would help you do all of this... those prices are a rip...

 

Oh nice, are you coming with the TL?

 

If the brake caliper does not respond when you psh the pedal- rust can form and stay there.
You may have noticed in the past when you wash the car- the next day the rotors look rusty. Once you have used the brakes a few times, they wipe the rust away and rotors are shiny again.
If your current rotors are rusty after you drive- that means they are not pushing the pads against the rotor= no frikken brakes!
the other end of the car will end up doing more work to make the car stop and wear out the tiny rear pads in months not years.
If the calipers are not working they wont wear down the pads to get to the low pad warning squeeler tab.
Have the tech doing the bearing look at them for you again.

 

well both you guys are from montreal you might as well team up and fix it or pay him . just get some aftermarket rotors and pads. its ridiculous for rotors to be 160 each. thats a ripoff. brembo should cost that much or any high end rotors

 

I found a shop in my area that specializes in Honda's. I would go there, but I don't want to drive 1200km with a bad bearing right now so I'll get it changed tomorrow. However I might go there from now on, from what I heard it's a very good shop.

I would like to do it myself, but the thing is I haven't ever done any repairs on any car and don't know jack shit about it. I'm scared to do that kind of stuff, just because I might screw something up and end up paying even more. If I'd have friends with knowledge in this field it'd be great, but sadly I don't know anyone who does mechanical work on cars.

 

This may be a little off the subject but has anyone ever tried the rotors that are for sale on ebay? I see many there, slotted, drilled, F+R with pads that are way cheaper than anywhere else. I am just curious as to whether or not they are any good? Here is an example of some for the 2.5 which is what I have rotors

 

yes i did ,aftermarket unknown brand ..they are flawless. i had no problems with them.

that link is oem replacement. if u do end up getting one with drill slots dont get the one with break pads..cuz they are shitty will last you 2 months . i know i bought one for 20.00 and they were very shitty