96 3.2TL Rear Brakes HELP!!!!
#1
96 3.2TL Rear Brakes HELP!!!!
Hi guys so i tried replacing my rear brake pads and rotors. I got to the point of having to compress the calipers well i was spinning the piston clockwise like your supposed to and the caliper didn't move in at all. Any help on how i can do this?
#2
e z
I just did mine yesterday, take some vice grips and turn it clockwise a few turns then take a clamp and squeeze it in, turn some more then squeeze in, repeat until u can put the breaks on .
#3
B A N N E D
Originally Posted by AcRyte
I just did mine yesterday, take some vice grips and turn it clockwise a few turns then take a clamp and squeeze it in, turn some more then squeeze in, repeat until u can put the breaks on .
if you do that theres a good chance in ripping the boot or caliper seal if you are a novice.. Get a prybar or large flat head screw driver and try that..you may have to take the rotor off and bolt the caliper to the hub again to hold it tight.. Also keep in mind if your ebrake cables are pulled and the brake is latched you are working against yourself..
Once its anchored down, you should be able to twist it back in. Sometimes working whatever direction you can freely helps out free things from being bound up.
There is a tool specificly designed for that. It looks like a little cube.. Honda makes one through mac though thats a lot better.
#4
Experts dont Improvise, i guess
Thanks for the insight, I didnt mess mine up i dont think, but thats how I did it and it works fine. I thought the point was to twist and turn at the same time, thats what the special tool does. It applies pressure whilst turning. I kept my clamp on while turning,when the clam was about to give, i tightened it a wee bit more, then turned some more. The hard part was keeping that caliper held up! I wanted to change my rotors but didnt know how to get them off, i thought they were pressed on, but looking at todays thread, they are not. Any expert suggestions, cuz i would do it my way! Thanks in advance
#6
B A N N E D
Pushing does not really do anything. The caliper is a spiral design. The tool is basicly an x that fits into that embossed pattern in the piston. You attach it to a 3/8 drive extension and ratchet and just ratchet away at it which pushes the piston, or screws the piston back inside the caliper... Using a clamp with pressure could be why it was hard to turn..It solely needs just to be "screwed" in..
So just think of the tool as a special socket that bolts into the piston. and you can bolt it back in.. God forbid they actually make it square so the 3/8 or a 1/2 drive extension would just snap in the piston.. that would be a terrible idea right.. I guess its a better design with the garbage pattern that most tools skip out of and strip it..
The little block things are alright, just they are so universal that only one of them works and its easy to break since its made from pot metal.
So just think of the tool as a special socket that bolts into the piston. and you can bolt it back in.. God forbid they actually make it square so the 3/8 or a 1/2 drive extension would just snap in the piston.. that would be a terrible idea right.. I guess its a better design with the garbage pattern that most tools skip out of and strip it..
The little block things are alright, just they are so universal that only one of them works and its easy to break since its made from pot metal.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post