bdan

Hello all. A new member to this group and I love to see such a great source of info on such wonderful cars.
I recently bought a 1997 3.5RL from my father-in-law. I love the car and look forward to fixing it up with the help of all the great information I've come across here. He realized (luckily) he shouldn't be driving any more, but not before bumping it into his garage door quite a few times.
I'm writing my first post regarding the factory Bose stereo. I know it's been covered extensively in the past, I'm aware of the line-level to the amp in the trunk, the 2 ohm limitations of the speakers and the numerous methods of bypassing these systems. I've also done a lot of research on upgrading the head unit while maintaining the factory amp and speakers but just wanted to run one approach by this community, as I've found conflicting opinions on the matter.
I love the sound of the factory Bose system but find it a little outdated. Most of my music is now in digital format, residing on hard drives or USB sticks. I tried adapting the music sources through a cassette adapter but the hum and noise are unacceptable.
I have an aftermarket Pioneer HU from my last car which I love. It has 2 USB inputs (front and back) where I can plug in up to a 250GB hard drive and it can display Artist, album, song, bitrate, etc. and a 3.5 front input that covers hands-free calling from my android. I know there have been extensive posts about incorporating aftermarket head units while maintaining the factory Bose amp and speakers but recently found a product which seems to solve all the issues presented.
Pioneer DEH-P10UB has (4) 4V pre-amp outputs. I thought if I verify the polarity of everything, this might work:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-2003-ACURA-RL-CAR-STEREO-DASH-INSTALLATION-TRIM-KIT-W-BOSE-WIRE-HARNESS-/390778610374?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AAcura%7CModel%3ARL&hash=item5afc3862c6&vxp=mtrplugging in the RCA plugs to my HU pre-amp outputs and connecting all other wires as needed. I realize the sub woofer is a job for another day.
Thanks in advance for any input!

3.5RLv-tec?

iTrader: (2)

I think you should email the seller about the kit because I don't know if the kit really come with the dash plate that has the three buttons cutout. If you like the aftermarket headunit you already got then use it. If not then get the double din headunit, it is around ~$200-350. Btw, your rear door speakers will not work after you install the harness.

kirub

I am in the same boat too. I just bought this trim kit and harness a couple of days ago. I haven't installed it yet but I can confirm that there are two holes for the two buttons. Unfortunately, the Bose harness doesn't fit my 97 Acura Rl. The seller told me to return the item; he doesn't seem to have a replacement one. I am thinking about manually splicing the wires to add RCA cables but I don't know if it is going to work.

3.5RLv-tec?

iTrader: (2)

Good to know they are making the dash kit now. It used to cost over $250 for the dash alone. Anyway, is your 97 a base or premium model. Does it have a tweeter near the door lock switch. You can also check for the Bose amp in the trunk, just remove the carpet behide the seat. If you have a base model then you need the Metra harness kit; if you have the premium model then you will need the PAC Hon harness to by pass the amp. Hope that's help.

bdan

I know, I am aware of this $280 option and was ready to start checking junk yards for this panel when I found this product.I contacted the seller and confirmed the panel IS included in the kit.
My tweeter is @ the bottom of the door, next to the midrange. From the wording above, I'm assuming this is the base model, correct?
My biggest concern is the compatibility of the 4V preamp outputs on the HU with the inputs on the factory amp. How are the rear door speakers powered? why wouldn't they work?
Thanks so much for all the info, Dan

El-Baz

Honda decided it would be a good idea to mute the rear door speakers when the NAV system is talking or when you get a phone call. So (on the older models at least) they wired the rear doors separately from the main harness of the head unit and controlled the signal into the amp for the rear doors by muting it at the head unit.
I too want to replace the OEM head unit in my '02 with something that will play MP3 CD's and/or has a USB port for an ext. storage device. When I had everything torn apart changing cluster bulbs I did some testing of my system by pulling all the connectors off the head unit and display except the main harness and I still had sound coming out of my rear doors.
I did discover in a round-about way that the wiring harness for the right rear door needs work. I was testing for sound when I had it, then I didn't, then it I had it, then I didn't. I thought I was being stupid when I was pulling connectors then realized it was me opening and closing the door that was causing the intermittent sound.

I'm going with this when the time comes...

http://www.installer.com/item/displa...hp?it=roem-hon.

If I lose my rear doors (I don't expect to) it's a small price to pay to have more than 2 days commute worth of music on-board.

3.5RLv-tec?

iTrader: (2)

There are two ways to can power the rear door speaker after an aftermarket HU installed. First and cheapest way is to buy a weaker speakers than the OEM one and wire to the rear deck speaker. Second is the proper way but it is going to cost you. Is to get an 4 chs amp to power both the front and the rear speakers. Or you can it use to power the rear speaker with a sub. Right now I'm using 4chs amp to power the front and a sub. BTW, I still have the wire harness in the link above, brand new.