Is our 3.5L engine an interference design?
Well that makes up that decision... we got the entire front end of the motor apart, only thing left to remove is the crank pulley.... well we can't get that damn thing off with any impact electric or pneumatic so we need the special tool to hold it still while we use a breaker bar.
Took a look at the timing belts and they appear pristine condition, so we wondered that if it's a non interference engine we'll put off the timing belts for another few years..
But being an interference engine I don't dare take the risk. The belts were last done at 123k KM (~75k miles) and it now has 255k (~150k miles).
Took a look at the timing belts and they appear pristine condition, so we wondered that if it's a non interference engine we'll put off the timing belts for another few years..
But being an interference engine I don't dare take the risk. The belts were last done at 123k KM (~75k miles) and it now has 255k (~150k miles).
Do the timing belt while your in there, one less thing to worry about. I think I paid $130 or so for a kit that included the timing, balancer belts, water pump, and pulleys. The special tool is definitely needed and should be the same needed for other Honda's as well.
All the pulleys seem in very good shape (haven't seen the timing belt ones yet) but I bought the belts for a total of ~$70cdn, so not bad at all. My neighbor is a mechanic and has the special tool...somewhere. Just needs to find it!
Do the timing belt while your in there, one less thing to worry about. I think I paid $130 or so for a kit that included the timing, balancer belts, water pump, and pulleys. The special tool is definitely needed and should be the same needed for other Honda's as well.
The tool can be rented a parts stores. If you plan on doing engine work in the future, buying one might be worthwhile.
Trending Topics
Screw it. Fuck it. I'm putting the fucking thing back together tomorrow and returning the timing belts. I can't get that goddamn peice of shit off. And I'm tired of trying. It was not meant to come off.
Apologies for my last post, I was quite angry last night!
I got everything put back together today, new radiator works great, bled the system and have great heat. Everything went well today!
I'll let a shop do the timing belts in the future
I got everything put back together today, new radiator works great, bled the system and have great heat. Everything went well today!
I'll let a shop do the timing belts in the future
When we changed the timing belt on our car, I didnt remember if we have to remove the crank pulley? Anyway, it is on its second belts, the first one is at 100K and the second is at 170K. Now i'm almost hit 200K so the third belt is on the list.
When we did mine we used a 4 ft. pipe on the end of a breaker bar. There's no finessing it off. You rear back and give it a hard yank to break the bolt loose.
I guess if the car was on the ground and the belts were on it wouldn't have spun so easily? I couldn't keep it from spinning so there was no amount of breaker bar that could do it.
Oh man! Sorry I should have explained better. The special tool we're talking about is used to hold the crank pulley so you can break the bolt loose. The one that O'Reiley rents looks like this...

The pulley has a hex shaped center bore that the tool fits into. Then you use a breaker bar to extend the tool so it's wedged in the engine bay or on the ground. Then you take a 2nd breaker bar, ext & socket with a 4' cheater and crack the bolt free. This tool is also required when you tighten everything back up.
I splurged and bought a Sir Tools setup years ago....

It was $150 for the two Honda/Acura adapters and a 30" handle. It's worked on all the Civics and Integras I've owned in addition to my RL.

The pulley has a hex shaped center bore that the tool fits into. Then you use a breaker bar to extend the tool so it's wedged in the engine bay or on the ground. Then you take a 2nd breaker bar, ext & socket with a 4' cheater and crack the bolt free. This tool is also required when you tighten everything back up.
I splurged and bought a Sir Tools setup years ago....

It was $150 for the two Honda/Acura adapters and a 30" handle. It's worked on all the Civics and Integras I've owned in addition to my RL.
To get the lower cover off to change the belts, the pulley has to come off. Basically you need to disassemble the entire front end of the the car!
Last edited by El-Baz; Apr 16, 2014 at 12:47 PM.
Hello, I just bought a 2004 RL and want to have the timing belt and water pump changed. It's my understanding that the timing belt has to be removed to replace the water pump, so basically it makes sense to do both at the same time. The estimate I got from a local shop has more labor for the water pump than the timing belt ($500 vs $400). Does the water pump take that long to replace after the timing belt is removed?
Also, is Gates an acceptable replacement for the water pump? From what I can tell the OE Aisin water pump is no longer available.
Also, is Gates an acceptable replacement for the water pump? From what I can tell the OE Aisin water pump is no longer available.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Yumcha
Automotive News
1
Sep 17, 2015 09:01 PM


