ellover009

Hey guys I have a 1997 RL and I remember that a year or so the same thing happened and wherever I took it they had trouble getting reading the cars computer for a code at some auto shops and when I took it to the dealer they figured it out and it ended up being a wheel speed sensor that went bad.

Currently it happened again, took it to my regular mechanic and they had some new computer, they were able to get a reading from the engine and everything else but the ABS section. My mechanic insist I bring it back when the time is more appropriate and they can trace the abs and tcs sensor/computer and figure out if it's a loose wire or not properly grounded and that's why they aren't getting a code or get a reading, or if the ABS computer failed. They tried 3 different machine/computers connected to the socked under the cigarette ashtray in the center console. He insist that something must be off since he used 3 different machines to attempt to get a readout from the ABS/TCs and that he had invested in a new computer that was worth around 10k.

I am wondering if you guys think if the ABS system is locked software from the dealer and my regular mechanic can't get in to get a code or if his computer is not up to it.

Would hate to go to the dealer and not deal with my mechanic since he spent some good time messing with the car trying to get a code, or is this one of those dealer only things that I have to do at the dealership? Does Acura lock some things so that the non dealership mechanics can't get a reading with their computers?

OLD_HATCH

there is a service check connector for the abs. It's separate from the obd2 port readings.


I believe the service check connector is behind the glovebox. Could be somewhere else though.

download the service manual from pdftown.com and lok in there.

it will be a folder full of pdf's, just scroll till you see one named main index.

ellover009

Ok If I read the manual or what I can make of it, I should be able to retrieve the codes by using a tool to connect the 2 pin socket that comes from under the glove compartment, If I read correctly another alternative is to use a paper clip, bend it into a u shape to connect both pins together, I also have to have the key in off position before doing this. Then the display panel should start flashing lights, first set will be slow and 2nd will be faster, that will give me example 3 slow 2 fast would be a 32 code.

Can someone confirm what I am planning to do so I don't mess up the process?

OLD_HATCH

sounds correct to me.

theres also a chart somewher in the service manual that will tell u what the code is

Jimmay

THat is exactly what i did. It ill most likely give you a few codes when you do this though and be sure to write them down. As OLD HATCH said there is a chart that tells you what the codes mean.

ellover009

I used the paperclip today. first flashing set was 4 blinks and then more, I read something about a set flashing faster and another set slower but I didn't notice too much distinction in flashing speeds for the first # and the 2nd. It flashed the same code 3 times.

ellover009

I don,t have access to the guide atm but I googled it and for this year model 1997 it should be Rear Right wheel speed sensor. Called the dealer to check which sensor went bad a few years ago and it was the rear left. For the Rear Right it cost $137.30 for the part itself. I think now its more of a question who will do it. Dealer gave me a quote for the service by phone. Local mechanic couldnt give me a quote since they don't know how it will be till they get in there. I am guessing local would be cheaper.

SeamusNH

The speed sensor is part # 78410-SZ3-003 on acuraoemparts.com. List is $122, they sell it for $91.

It is an easy remove and replace. I'd buy the part and try replacing it yourself...

ellover009

Well long story short is I ended up taking the car to the dealership, they replaced the RR wheel speed sensor and an oil change, they did a complementary check on the vehicle and found some things..........................
I don't pick up the car till tomorrow but I got an idea of the things going on.

a leak/hole in the muffler pipe.
leak in steering rack
battery didn't test well, there was oxidation in the cable (cable needs replacement)
he mentioned something about finding some oil residue where it wasn't supposed to be and thinks that could be failing gasket or a cracked cylinder but unable to diagnose since they would have to open up the engine and take it apart, but did not see leaking from the engine.
and something about rear bushings.

Wont know all the details till I pick it up tomorrow morning, I got two things running through my head atm.

Repairing this even if I go to a local garage might be too close to the actual value of the car.

Thanks to the cash for clunkers ordeal the value of used cars is destabilized and you can't get a deal on a used car, I considered selling it and trading up to a few years younger, but the most reasonable one I could find was purple color and even then the miles weren't as low as id like them.

Btw I've been driving the TL loaner, fun little car, but it still does not cruise as nicely as an rl.

thaillest30

Hey ellover i do have the full manual on pdf on my home pc. I believe it has the full trouble code listing. The pdf is not numbered so you will have to do a bit of searching but you are welcome to it. If you shoot me your email i can send it to you.

OLD_HATCH

if you downloaded it from pdftown.com then all you need to do is find the pdf named main index and click on that one. It has links to all the other ones and actually makes it usable.

SeamusNH

The link to the service manual:
http://pdftown.com/Honda-Acura-35RL-Manual.html

It is easy to search as it is all pdf files....

ellover009

The abs/tcs code problem was resolved, I jumped the little socket under the glove compartment, counted the flashes and pulled out a code 44 which is a rear right wheel speed sensor.
I decided to let the dealer do it, and get the oil change due to living in an apartment and having the limited space, tools and confidence to do this job.

I took it to the dealership, the fixed it, and did an oil change, but they also did a complimentary check and found some other things.

1. steering rack and boots is leaking (not at an alarming rate thou) expensive part.

2. B pipe in muffler has a hole and muffler is rusted to it.

3. they found oil evidence in the radiator and they suspect it might be a blown head gasket or a cylinder head.
I suspect that oil evidence could be when the radiator hose cracked and I went to a local garage, and they improvised by cutting some similar piping that used to be for something else to fit there to stop the leaking.

then a combination of smaller problems.
brake fluid flush, battery failing, battery cable corroded, front pads and rotors, rear upper control arms, a/m rear stabilizer links and bushings, small rust spot in trunk.

I considered a newer rl but the used rl market right now is not too healthy, the 2000-2002 rls are overpriced compared to what they used to cost a few years ago, I could get something a lot newer like an 2005 but I don't have the 16k + for it atm (not as low miles unless I spend more), and there's still the worry about the propeller shaft needing replacement. Saw a few mdx at a decent price but don't know if I am willing to loose fuel economy and the comfort and ride is just not the same.

I did download the manual.

sherman_nguyen

Hi, i has the same problem with the rack and pinion boots. My RL is 99 with 145k on it. It served my family well for these 11 years. i just got quote from the dealer to change the rack and pinion boot is 375$. Well, i took it to the shop that i knew and they did it for 90$ plus they figured out that my outer tire rod is broken so they also ordering it from the dealer and changed it for another 140$. I love my car and i will not sell it until the end of its life. BTW I also have 05 RL with 137k on it and it does not have any serious problem.

ellover009

I thought the steering rack goes for around $700 aftermarket and 1k oem, maybe decent price on a rebuilt unit.
Btw how do you like the 05 compared to the older el? How does it handle, and is it faster?

pmendoza502

just like going to the doctors, always get a second opinion... especially when it comes to problems the dealer service people say you have...
ive said it before in other posts, they dont call it the stealership for nothing! lolz

as far as the possible blown head gasket, have you experienced fluctuations or high temps indicated by your thermostat indicator on the dash?

brake pads and rotors area very easy, all you need are your normal ratchet tools and some sort of c-clamp, and screwdrivers for the rotors. i picked up a set of pads for all four brakes for under $100. have the pros do the brake fluid flush.

go to costco for a battery, and depending on which cable is corroded, you can get one at any auto parts store for $10-$15...

check the web for the stabilizer bushings, but you can probably hold off on this if you dont mind the car feeling more boat like than it did before.

as far as the rear upper control arms, you can use ones for 98-02 accord, TL or CL, an after market camber kit might even be a cheaper option...
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3502543...=263602_263632

and unless you live in california, i wouldnt worry too much about the muffler/b-pipe untill its time to get a smog check...

ellover009

i kinda knew about the steering rack, my local mechanic already had told me i could possibly keep using but steering would not feel as good as it used to be.
The oil in the radiator i am not sure, i have not seen the temp go above medium, unfortunately the lights behind it have given out.
Maybe its time to do the led mod on the panel, dunno if its a good idea to go with a blue light thou, heard things about blue light not being good to you, specially since we can understemate the power since were half blind to it. Hmm green led look good?

ellover009

texyt.com/bright+blue+leds+annoyance+health+risks

ellover009

didn't wanna open a new thread, the wheel speed sensor is fixed, the car is mostly working well besides some things. Considered going with an newer rl but the used car market is a little iffy atm, you can find some good deals on newer rls as long as you are willing to spend over 15k.

Steering rack is slowly leaking.
Right windshield wiper stopped working.
Telescoping steering does not move back and forth anymore, just up and down.
There's a leak in a muffler pipe and muffler is rusting.
yesterday one of the yellow fog lights gave out.
Some rust spots.
I think one of the rear bushings is going bad.
Cup holders up front do not always open and close as wanted, had to bend them back in shape with some success.
Missing 3.5RL badge, they just left the L left in it.
went to change battery and when looked found battery bracket did not come with card, and smaller battery was in place, bracket mounts are not centered so sears did not have an replacement.

My biggest concern atm is the windshield wiper, when I had it inspected they worked fine but he touched the passenger side one and it stopped working. They opened it up and found what they call the passenger side windshield wiper transmission arm had fallen off. They reattached after opening it up and it worked again, they told me it was eventually gonna fall out again, and it and that snow would make it fall off due to worn parts due to age.
I been told acuraoemparts is good but I haven't used them yet, I looked at their online catalog and I am a little confused as to which part would be as the mechanic call the windshield wiper transmission, and would I need any other parts to go with that. I also noticed some of the paint is peeling off the outside wiper arms themselves, they look in good condition, is it worth repainting them or would it make the car look bad?
besides ebay any other places you guys recommend for some used parts? I saw a guide someone did on how to replace a gear in the steering column, some of the parts I could possibly get away with cheaper and used such as the battery bracket and parts. Thanks for the help guys?

ellover009

I wish they didn't make the newer 05 rl smaller than the 1rst gen, only thing I wish it was better was at not getting stuck in snow as much. Lower power output than more modern cars, fwd, lower vehicle height than the new corolla and being so heavy upfront does not help. I looked at a few vehicles, newer rl's, mdx, subaru impreza and outback and am just waiting for the right time to make a move. If I fix this car I know it will last a long long time, but then again don't fix it and can turn into a paper weight.