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I will try to keep this short winded but also give enough detail that maybe someone can help or offer direction.
Last month, while moving my daughter back to college I ran into a strange issue. The car was loaded with some stuff, as well as myself and my wife, kids following in the Mazda 3. This was about a 2.5 hr mountain drive that we have taken several times before. On the way up a mountain pass I kinda thought heck lets give the turbo a little break because it seemed to be a hard drive this morning. You know how the car does, it will hold the higher gear and just boost, and it was on full boost for a bit. So I thought give it a break already control system... and I hit the paddle shifter once so it would downshift.
From there on out it would hardly boost and just kept downshifting. Like it would boost to the first line was about all. For a bit there I figured nothing to do with the shift. I probably had a lousy tank of gas because I bought from a different place. Later in the trip as we started to go down in elevation into rolling hills it went back to normal. So I said yep, probably lousy fuel and high elevation, the ECU probably turned down the boost. But once we got to college my daughter also said her car had a time this day too and was downshifting like crazy, and I had not said anything about the RDX yet. So I thought well maybe just elevation and conditions that morning. Didn't think much of it except "we'll see on the return trip once we get in high elevation."
The return trip was fine, boosted normal all the way. But since then every now and again... and I swear I don't think it is in my head... but it still operates weird occasionally. I've been watching the guage and seeing what it does. Usually when it seems weird, it seems to seldom reach full boost unless you're goosing it. Basically normal driving hills it seems to sometimes reach the second line which I guess is 2/3 boost and it will downshift and the boost drops off.
I don't remember it running like this ever before. If anything opposite. Sometimes spooling from takeoff without meaning too. And it boosting high and holding the gear, etc.
I don't think anything is terribly wrong like the turbo going out or anything. I don't think so anyways. I think it is more of something stupid or goofy, like a sensor, or leak, or something of that nature. My problem is I have no idea what to look at or for.
Has anyone else ran into anything like this or an under-boost that could suggest what to look for, where to look or what sensors to suspect? I run premium fuel and have no CEL or anything.
It's extremely hard to tell you what is going on just reading about it.
First things first, while you may have no active codes, there's a possibility of pending codes. Get the car scanned for codes, primarily engine and transmission.
Secondly, not to say you're not feeling anything and everything is ok, but the "boost gauge" from the factory is absolute trash. Any vehicle turbo'd from factory should have an aftermarket boost gauge put into it. I put an AEM boost gauge in mine because factory gauges are awful. Technically speaking, from that factory gauge, there's no way to tell if you're actually in boost or not. I've noticed that 2 or 3 psi can literally be anywhere from the 1/3 mark to 2/3 mark, and sometimes half way is actually just straight up no boost but no vacuum, a zero reading. They're exceptionally inaccurate.
From those two items alone, you may be able to narrow down a little bit of the issue. It could possibly be a boost leak, in that case there might be a pending code for running lean. Take a look at vacuum lines and wiggle them around a little bit. Sometimes boost leaks are hidden in the angles of them.
But other than that, it's extremely hard to tell if you in fact have issues or not.
It's extremely hard to tell you what is going on just reading about it.
First things first, while you may have no active codes, there's a possibility of pending codes. Get the car scanned for codes, primarily engine and transmission.
Secondly, not to say you're not feeling anything and everything is ok, but the "boost gauge" from the factory is absolute trash. Any vehicle turbo'd from factory should have an aftermarket boost gauge put into it. I put an AEM boost gauge in mine because factory gauges are awful. Technically speaking, from that factory gauge, there's no way to tell if you're actually in boost or not. I've noticed that 2 or 3 psi can literally be anywhere from the 1/3 mark to 2/3 mark, and sometimes half way is actually just straight up no boost but no vacuum, a zero reading. They're exceptionally inaccurate.
From those two items alone, you may be able to narrow down a little bit of the issue. It could possibly be a boost leak, in that case there might be a pending code for running lean. Take a look at vacuum lines and wiggle them around a little bit. Sometimes boost leaks are hidden in the angles of them.
But other than that, it's extremely hard to tell if you in fact have issues or not.
-Shane
Right... really the only way I know I'm for sure not putting myself into a mind game here is that it sometimes driving around home it will not pull the same hill at the same speed without downshifting, and other times it will. And sometimes it just isn't feeling as spunky when you are taking off as others. I'm not a lead foot type nor the type that drives the piss out of it all the time either. Between myself and my wife it gets a good variety of driving depending on who is driving and who is inside. I can remember having to be really ginger on the pedal to not have an abrupt pull somewhere in the takeoff with my newborn son in there back in June and July and it was all the time. Now it is not all the time.
I'm going more on what I am feeling than what I am seeing on the boost guage. I just thought maybe giving some points of what I see on that guage might help. Sounds like it is not accurate enough for what I see to have any merit.
I have no problem getting it scanned for codes either if someone can tell me how the heck to flush out the old codes so I know what they are pulling up is current. It has codes stored in it that pull up from before I owned it. There is stuff pulled on a code reader that is the same code that is stored in the diagnostic menu in the dash, only difference is in the dash I can see the date was years ago. I had a CEL one time, probably over 6 months ago, and several things pulled with a code reader to the point I really had no idea. I debated rather to take it to Acura or another shop and as I drove around to see where else had time to check it for me it went out on it's own and hasn't came back. So I didn't bother with it anymore. I think what happened was, I cranked it up and pulled it into reverse, let off the brake and got on the gas too early and pissed it off. It shifts to reverse and drive like grandma in comparison to my other cars and that one time I forgot.
Any chance you could take a video when this is happening to your RDX so we could better diagnose the problem for you?
I might be able to try that tomorrow, depending on how it runs tomorrow. I'm taking the same trip.
I feel like it is a sensor thing, like TPS or a boost sensor or an air sensor or something that's going a little erratic... or a leak somewhere that's causing erratic behavior, but I don't really know where to look for leaks at on this thing. I'm not experienced with the RDX and it is complex under the hood. Lots of lines for coolant and oil and air, and I don't really know one from the other yet. I can follow some of the coolant route and that's about it. I'm not a mechanically stupid urban suit that drives only luxury cars and pays to have all the wrenches turned. It's just there is some of it I can't really see to continue to follow it around the engine bay, and I have not been a turbo guy in the past. This is the only turbo vehicle I have kept for any length of time at all. I have usually ended up right back in a V-8 muscle car in no time like the next one I ran across that interested me. And all of my other SUV's have been V-6 or V-8 except for a Kia Sportage I had that was a 4 cylinder.
I probably would not have this Turbo 4 SUV but my wife really liked it, and I was like hey this is not a yawn to drive. It's not that I dislike turbo cars or anything. I just grew up around 50's and 60's muscle cars and turbo cars never kept my interest away from V-8 cars. I'd still notice a V-8 car for sale rather it be a newer Mustang or an older hot rod of some sort. I've never put a turbo on anything or souped up a civic or any front wheel drive car. Some of my friends did when we were younger and I thought that stuff was cool. But it wasn't something I was interested in. My dad was into 50's and 60's muscle cars when I was growing up and so naturally I was more personally interested in cars with V-8's is all.
I took it to advance auto for a code read. Same thing, it read off a bunch of old stored codes, like stuff kept in memory, some of it that I can see corresponding dates in the nav screen from years ago.
So I did not get a video during the trip. Why? It ran perfect all the way to college while I had a passenger to record. But on the way back was a totally different story. I got into one of those pinch up situations on the highway where somebody balls up in front of you, and you have to get over and someone is coming up rolling hard in the fast lane, so you end up doing the old whip and stab. I didn't do anything crazy like floor it, but I got on it to get on out of the way as to not cause the other person to have to brake for me.
Man I am telling you the thing lit up like a christmas tree and played a tune of dings as well. Never seen anything like it. It must have lit up 9 or 10 codes. Like 2 transmission codes, 3 airbag codes, 1 AWD code, maintenance system, engine light and check emissions system.
Being out of my area I called and got a hook up for somewhere to go to get someone to run a scan for me, although I was pretty sure I was headed towards finding out I needed new computer or something... although the check emmissions thing was totally new. I got over there and he hooked up some reader that he ran a scan with and then took it and hooked it up to a computer.
I am still kind of confused, but that only pulled actual codes. I know I shut off and restarted several times as I drove around prior trying to find cell service so maybe some of the stuff cleared, IDK.
Anyways, the two codes were P1717 Reverse No Position. I knew this one was coming because again, what was the first thing I did when I jumped back in at the college and went to back out right quick? Yep, I pissed it off again cause I just don't drive it enough to reliably wait for it to shift into reverse before I let of the brake and get on the gas to go. This is annoying to me, but I feel like it is my fault. I do it every time I am in a hurry and forget it doesn't shift to the selected gear as fast as my Jeep or Mazda. Nobody else ever sets this off but me when driving it.
The other code was P0299 Turbo Charger Underboost Problem. These two codes correspond to the engine light being on and the cluster stating check emmissions system. The 3rd code was pulled with another tool which was 27-1 Airbag System. After another check he said it was the driver belt tensioner which should be covered by Acura under the lifetime seatbelt warranty?
He said the emissions/Turbo Charger Underboost Problem could be a lot of things. He said most were caused by a leak somewhere or a sensor issue, and that he had even seen it show up before from changing to a different air filter and even once he saw it from an engine that was a little overfilled on oil.
I drove it home and the those things remained illuminated all the way back. Me, I fricken HATE trying to check the oil on this thing because the dipstick and tube are stupid and it pulls oil up the tube that gets back on the stick when you put it back to check after wiping. So I pretty much just pull the stick, wipe it and go do something else a while. So I looked around a little and then thought you know I really don't know what air filter was even put in this thing. So I went to check that.
What did I find but first off a missing screw in the left rear airbox hole. I took it on apart and when I went to pull the filter I found a crazy open crack inside the valley of the ribbing on the intake tube by the bend. And upon further inspection I found another place on it out of eyes view that appears to have been patched with silicone.
Is this tube a piece of crap or has it suffered previous serious abuse? Should I get another from Acura, or pick up an aftermarket at a parts store? Or should I ditch all this for an intake system? I don't know what owners do in this department. I've never went searching for that kind of stuff because I've never thought about modifying anything and kind of like the idea of the protection of an air box. If some intake or filter would improve the gas mileage that would peak my interest though lol.
Anyways I figure that is for sure my problem, big fat intake leak, although I really thought seriously it was a computer issue after what happened today. I have been looking on ebay some too for turbo parts so I can look at the pictures and try to locate and look at all those connections too when I get back to work on it.
The filter I pulled from the air box has a reddish filter media. It's a dry filter, not a K&N. 8639 1403 Made in China are the markings I found on it. I have no idea.
The intake leak most definitely caused your issues. Being that its not exactly "your" car but your wife's, I would tell you to replace the tube with a factory piece.
Don't get too upset, It's actually fairly common and people don't usually catch it like you did, because it hides itself in there pretty good.
Replace that tube, have someone clear all the codes with a scanner, and go drive around again.
Put an factory intake tube in because an aftermarket intake would increase mpg and power but would make more than you would like probably. That’s probably the problem because it was sucking air in after the sensor so the motor was getting more air then it thought it was getting. Also, the air was unfiltered and dirty. Also, change the filter to a new factory clean filter or equivalent. That should be good for now. If you have issues after that is done let me know...
The intake leak most definitely caused your issues. Being that its not exactly "your" car but your wife's, I would tell you to replace the tube with a factory piece.
Don't get too upset, It's actually fairly common and people don't usually catch it like you did, because it hides itself in there pretty good.
Replace that tube, have someone clear all the codes with a scanner, and go drive around again.
Yeah, kind of a goofy situation because at the time I was in the market for another family ride and the wife really liked this RDX so I finally gave up and bought it. It wasn't that I disliked the RDX any really. I just probably would have bought something different if she hadn't liked it so much, and I figured the more she liked it the more she would drive it. I would have probably went with a 3rd row SUV with a V-6 or V-8. Really so far the only thing that has ticked me off about it is the fuel mileage and the premium fuel. We could have something much larger and more comfortable at this fuel expense level or below. But it is certainly not boring to drive so I kind of like it now. It's a nice mixture of car and suv with a little spunk mixed in.
The funny thing though is that I drive it way more than she does now. I jump in the RDX to go anywhere and only get in my Jeep now if I'm working.
I went back with the factory tube because that is what I could get the fastest, and also I wanted to go back with the same for the sake of getting it back to where it was to ease my mind.
Trouble is I just put it on tonight. I don't know of anywhere open on the weekends that will actually "clear" the codes. Is there a fuse I can pull to reset without killing power to everything and having to set everything up again? It is an RDX Tech.
Put an factory intake tube in because an aftermarket intake would increase mpg and power but would make more than you would like probably. That’s probably the problem because it was sucking air in after the sensor so the motor was getting more air then it thought it was getting. Also, the air was unfiltered and dirty. Also, change the filter to a new factory clean filter or equivalent. That should be good for now. If you have issues after that is done let me know...
In hindsight I wish I had read this before I placed my order. The filter in there looks fine, but I don't know that it is OEM. If I had to guess I would guess not because most OEM filters I have seen have white media. If I had read this before I ordered I would have just added a filter to the order even though this one looks clean. At least I would know it was all original.
Will this thing realize the leak is gone and eventually reset itself after it has been driven? If so how many miles before the reset?
The auto parts stores won't clear the codes out so I can drive it and see that the code doesn't come back.
I hate to disconnect the battery and try to figure out how to disconnect the keep alive memory to the computer. I have the tech package and I am not sure how much of a pain it will be to go back through setting that up.
I know a shop that has done this for me in the past on another vehicle, but I am not sure they will be able to get to it before I will need to take another 5 hr trip in it this week.
OK I will unhook the battery then. I think I have seen a card in with the manual that has those codes, but I will make sure. Is there a keep alive memory fuse I have to pull also? Or does that discharge pretty quick when the battery is disconnected? I've seen some cars with no KAM, others with it that only gave you about enough time to change a battery, others that had a fuse to pull, and others that you just had to leave the battery disconnected for a couple of hours.
All you have to do is leave the negative battery terminal off for a couple of hours and then reconnect it. Make sure you have that card with the radio and navigation codes. Otherwise, once you do that you won’t be able to use either one of them.
I went ahead and unhooked the battery. That took care of the codes and lights.
I took it for a drive, half expecting it to run crappy for a bit like some cars have in the past. But it actually ran fine. It was like flipping a switch. It must stick in some sort of limp mode when a light is on.
Feeling it run better confirmed that I wasn't imagining things all that time before the lights came on. It has a lot more spunk now. I tried not to pay too much attention to the turbo guage and the downshift points for now. But I did watch that some. It does much better than how it was intermittently performing before. I will have to drive it some more and then pay attention to that later in the week and see what I see. As of right now I am not 100% sure it is just like it was prior to any issues,but it is certainly better.
Where I am looking at it is not when running it hard. I'm looking mostly at how it pulls the long inclines around here. How the boost comes on and builds as I continue to climb, and how far up the needle goes before I end up with a transmission downshift. I need to do it by foot input and with cruise control on as well.
Anyways, this intake hose being cracked open like this has me wanting to check everything else along the path. I haven't quite figured out how it is all plumbed yet. But I would like to.
What are some other common points of leaks along the pathway?
Glad that helped for now, but after a few hundred miles if the problem isn’t fixed the stores code will come back up on your dash board, if it doesn’t come back up on your dash after a couple hundred miles your good to go. It’s in relearn mode so the code is pending but not posted yet. Try to scan to see if the code is still there.
@MtnRDX any update with a longer drive? We just got a 2010 and are getting the P0299 and the boost wont go over 1/2 Local Honda tech said he cant see anything wrong with Turbo and thinks cat is getting clogged.
DANG, SORRY I DO NOT KNOW WHAT HAPPENED TO MY POST. I JUST HAPPENED TO COME BACK TO CHECK ON RACER54 AND SAW NO POST. SO GONNA RETYPE...
I have not had a chance to get it back for a code read as instructed here. But I have since put almost 2 tanks of gas through it. Driven roughly 600 miles and the light has not returned.
I am really sorry to hear about your issue and wish I understood the routing of the boost a little more than I do so I could be of more help to you. I could probably get more off my mind as well.
My suggestion is to take a coin and remove the cover off the cooler so you can eyeball around for cracks or signs of leaks.
In my case, my full boost is back but I cannot convince myself it runs 100% like it did before. It is possible I just never noticed downshifting in some situations as the boost is coming and so forth. I'd have to drive another one to really know I guess because I am suspicious of it now? I might be off base. Some of it might also be whatever sensor is connected to the needle in the cluster? I swear the needle seems to drop out quicker. And sometimes I catch it going up towards full boost and then wavering a bit, seemingly a little too soon before an upshift.
My wife has literally only driven it once since I replaced the intake boot. She said it seemed ok to her. I don't disqualify that as much as I normally would because it's not like she is hawk eye on the boost needle or trying to pay attention to how it sounds, only how it is going.
Did they happen to quote you a price on replacing the cats? I think since the EPA says we have to run the cats, I think they should have to pay for replacements when they clog up!
I also wonder if anyone has figured out a stealthy fix for the cats that don't throw codes and cause problems? I bet the downpipe and cats is where a lot of fuel economy and power is lost.
I have noticed how the RDX will boost when it could downshift instead... I guess it's designed that way to cover up how easily the RDX can guzzle gas... It used to annoy me, but now I've gotten used to it... In fact, it makes the power feel smoother at times, vs a jerky downshift to speed up... It's kinda nice!!!
Hope you figure out what's going on with your RDX, they're such nice vehicles!!!
DANG, SORRY I DO NOT KNOW WHAT HAPPENED TO MY POST. I JUST HAPPENED TO COME BACK TO CHECK ON RACER54 AND SAW NO POST. SO GONNA RETYPE...
I have not had a chance to get it back for a code read as instructed here. But I have since put almost 2 tanks of gas through it. Driven roughly 600 miles and the light has not returned.
I am really sorry to hear about your issue and wish I understood the routing of the boost a little more than I do so I could be of more help to you. I could probably get more off my mind as well.
My suggestion is to take a coin and remove the cover off the cooler so you can eyeball around for cracks or signs of leaks.
In my case, my full boost is back but I cannot convince myself it runs 100% like it did before. It is possible I just never noticed downshifting in some situations as the boost is coming and so forth. I'd have to drive another one to really know I guess because I am suspicious of it now? I might be off base. Some of it might also be whatever sensor is connected to the needle in the cluster? I swear the needle seems to drop out quicker. And sometimes I catch it going up towards full boost and then wavering a bit, seemingly a little too soon before an upshift.
My wife has literally only driven it once since I replaced the intake boot. She said it seemed ok to her. I don't disqualify that as much as I normally would because it's not like she is hawk eye on the boost needle or trying to pay attention to how it sounds, only how it is going.
Did they happen to quote you a price on replacing the cats? I think since the EPA says we have to run the cats, I think they should have to pay for replacements when they clog up!
I also wonder if anyone has figured out a stealthy fix for the cats that don't throw codes and cause problems? I bet the downpipe and cats is where a lot of fuel economy and power is lost.
Thanks MtnRDX. No worries. Mine is fixed also. Mine was the rear cat.
It was driving me crazy hearing stories about people having cat issues but having turbo codes. I get that the turbo uses exhaust to operate and if the exhaust is backed up the turbo could be affected but it was weird that there were not cat codes (cat inefficiency, etc.). I decided to understand the system and learned that only the front cat has O2 sensors so I figure maybe the one without sensors could be the culprit and it would make sense that I didn't get the cat codes.
All I did was crawl underneath and loosen the two flange bolts connecting the first cat from the second cat (causing an exhaust leak) and taking it for a drive. This bypassed the second cat and right away the turbo boost went all the way up which it never did before and even chirped the tires.
Alomost two weeks later and she stll runs great. Very enjoyable car.
Then I called around and found a local exhaust shop that was able to install a rear cat with legal Cali emission codes for $295 and the car runs great. Actually better than when we first test drove it which tells me it was clogged and we just didnt know it becaus we had never driven one before.
Glad, everyone got their problems solved. Unfortunately, older and high mileage cars are more suspetible to clogged catilitic converters. Always warm up the car all the way especially if it’s only for a short drive. Also try to use good quality gasoline and oil products. Just some information I find helpful that may help everyone else out.
I have noticed how the RDX will boost when it could downshift instead... I guess it's designed that way to cover up how easily the RDX can guzzle gas... It used to annoy me, but now I've gotten used to it... In fact, it makes the power feel smoother at times, vs a jerky downshift to speed up... It's kinda nice!!!
Hope you figure out what's going on with your RDX, they're such nice vehicles!!!
You know what? You made me do the stupid thing I should have done a long time ago... just to see... I put it in sport mode and got into manual and shifted with the paddles again since I had not done that since being the moment I made it downshift with the paddle climbing the mountain to give the turbo a break was when my issue started... which was because it sucked air harder through a cracked intake tube as it turns out.
Anyways I put it in manual to see when it actually downshifts, because it still seems to do that some. As it turns out I think what it is doing is shifting out of overdrive? The dash still says 5 when it does it. I have ran this thing about 600 miles no issues, but I don't think it did that much before all this. I think it just boosted and held. But I could be mistaken and just never noticed before, and am just being more aware now. I would have to drive another one to be able to tell. But I don't know anyone else that has one, and haven't seen any to test drive lately. But I will keep my eyes peeled and take a test drive so I can quit bugging myself or know to look for something more, lol.
Thanks MtnRDX. No worries. Mine is fixed also. Mine was the rear cat.
It was driving me crazy hearing stories about people having cat issues but having turbo codes. I get that the turbo uses exhaust to operate and if the exhaust is backed up the turbo could be affected but it was weird that there were not cat codes (cat inefficiency, etc.). I decided to understand the system and learned that only the front cat has O2 sensors so I figure maybe the one without sensors could be the culprit and it would make sense that I didn't get the cat codes.
All I did was crawl underneath and loosen the two flange bolts connecting the first cat from the second cat (causing an exhaust leak) and taking it for a drive. This bypassed the second cat and right away the turbo boost went all the way up which it never did before and even chirped the tires.
Alomost two weeks later and she stll runs great. Very enjoyable car.
Then I called around and found a local exhaust shop that was able to install a rear cat with legal Cali emission codes for $295 and the car runs great. Actually better than when we first test drove it which tells me it was clogged and we just didnt know it becaus we had never driven one before.
Good thinking on loosening the bolts! I am half tempted to do the same thing just for the hell of it when I change my oil just to see if I can tell if my back cats are starting to get clogged up.
I also did a little bit of reading and it looks like there is indeed a lot of performance and fuel economy lost in the downpipe and the cats. I have not read enough to find a reasonable street solution. But I will keep digging around when I am bored and see what I find. If and when I have to redo this stuff it would be nice to find a few more MPG while I am at it. I am really a fan of the car for the most part, but it is thirsty like a suburban lol.
Anyways I put it in manual to see when it actually downshifts, because it still seems to do that some. As it turns out I think what it is doing is shifting out of overdrive? The dash still says 5 when it does it. I have ran this thing about 600 miles no issues, but I don't think it did that much before all this. I think it just boosted and held.
That's just your torque converter unlocking, letting the engine spin faster while staying in the same gear. If it's doing this more than you remember, it could be that you're making less power than you should be at the fixed rpm, which in turn would require more throttle input, which in turn again would tell the car to increase engine rpm to compensate.
I had a similar issue in the past, only it was so subtle that I didn't ever get a code, or even notice there was a problem. The O-ring between the bypass valve and the intercooler had failed, causing a small boost leak. Under normal where boost was minimal or not used at all, no issues. Under full boost, also no issues because at high rpm/high boost, the leak wasn't relatively large. Where it had the most impact was low rpm / high boost situations, such as an incline while on the highway. The only reason I know something was wrong was that after I found and fixed the issue (by chance, during a spark plug change). After replacing the ring, low-rpm power and response was much better, and overall fuel economy improved by about 15%. My plugs were't that far gone to be the only reason for such a drastic change.
I'm not saying your leak would be the same as mine, but if you do want to check that particular spot, it's not too hard if you have a decent socket set. If you're standing in front of your car looking down at your engine, it's the piece bolted on to the bottom right of your intercooler. There are two metal screws with (I think 10 or 12 mm) hex heads (and I believe phillip heads within) that need to come off. One is easy to hit, the other can be hard unless you have a skinny socket extension. Lots of wires and other crap in that area. Once the two screws are just pull it back a bit and see if the o-ring is there and in good shape. Mine had practically fallen to pieces over the years.
OK so I am not mechanically stupid in the general category. But I took that cover off that has the deutz like quarter turn fasteners, and I looked around a couple minutes, and feel like a turbo dummy. On this car I don't understand the flow of things like I do if I raise the hood on my other ones. How the air and coolant flows is pretty straight forward on them and the other pipes/hoses are vacuum etc. This RDX is a different story. There's other coolant lines I know, and looks like oil lines, turbo related stuff. Just all kinds of hoses and pipes. I thought I had a basic understanding of the air flow and boost route. But now I'm not really sure anymore.
I'm going to post some pictures though, starting by asking if whatever this part is... is where I'm looking for an o ring leak
Im guessing I have to take the bolts out that are behind that you cant see here atfachi g it ro the cooler and get it apart to really check.
And here are some connections that look kinda cruddy. The latter smaller 2 look kinda gunky where the hose clamps to the plastic pipe with the s bend, which I didn't even know was there and don't know what it's called.
Use a socket wrench 🔧 with a 10mm socket to remove these two bolts. Then look 👀 under it to see if the o-ring is in tact. See if it is still playable and it not dry rotted. Make sure you have an o-ring handy. You might just want to replace it anyways since you have it opened up. This is called your bypass valve. It sends air back into the intake pipe instead of venting it into the atmosphere. Which could potentially cause a rough idle or stall.
OK gotcha, the 2 bolts that hold it to the housing instead of the 2 bolts that hold the housing to the cooler. I see a little orange rubber tang sticking out of both those connections.
Is this a common o ring I can pick up or an Acura part?
I'm gonna say this is a possible bet being the cooler has been off the car. I took that cover off again and was looking at the rubber boot on the back of the cooler and realized that the clamp on it was cocked real bad and off the rubber actually underneath. I never saw this before because I looked at it in pitch dark with a flashlight which make's it easier to see in the shadows. I could not put eyes on it at the same time as loosening it. So I don't know that this was a leak even. But I put it back right.
09-28-2018, 10:43 PM
