Good day all. I am the proud owner of my first Acura. Its a 2008 RDX with Tech Package, black on black, 88000 miles purchased from Acura of Reno. I traded a Cadillac DeVille for it. Was originally looking at a TL, then a TSX when I spotted this on the lot and fell in love. Its the perfect combination of sport, rugged and luxury all wrapped in a nice package.

Now on to the question... Under 3/4 to full throttle, on occasion, the cars powertrain will buck. When it does it, it is usually around 3000-4000 RPM with full boost. Once it bucks once or twice it will resume operating as expected to the redline.

I took it back to the dealer and did a test drive with two techs. They were able to recreate the problem.

They checked for codes, none. Reflashed the computers and the problem seemed to vanish, but it showed up again yesterday.

Acura of Reno is great dealership and I have no doubt they can fix the problem if we can figure out what it is. It mostly has occurred in first gear, although I have had it happen in second.

I am wondering if the last owner might have been using a cheap gas or if it needs plugs. The dealer is thinking it is the transmission hunting, but I am not thinking that is the case.

I do know the car was a lease from 2008 to 2011 and then privately owned.

Was wondering if anyone had any thoughts or ideas on what might be the cause.

The good news is I bought the extended warranty on it, and other than this issue, the car runs great and pulls strong.

I did send an email to the service manager today and suggest we try the following: replace the plugs, clean the fuel system and change the fuel filter, service the transmission (change the fluid and filter).

If anyone has any other suggestions that would be great.

 

In general, try to return the vehicle to *as-new* condition. Start with the simple stuff - check and/ or replace the air filter. An RDX is basically all electrically/ electronically controlled, so every sensor / input needs good inputs: and good air, oil, etc. Most cars should have the MAF cleaned at this mileage, but unsure how to do it for the RDX (looks nothing like my Chevy MAF).

Use some Chevron Techron PLUS fuel additive, a top-tier fuel (premium), and consider an injector / throttle body cleaning procedure (as you have suggested). The fuel filter in inside the fuel tank, is part of the fuel pump(s), and basically is not a service item.

Your list is also a good starting point, and if unsure of current maintenance, also change the transfer and rear diff oils. Won't help your hesitation or *jerk*, but still is a good idea.

Then remove the turbo intake cover, and check carefully all hoses for softness and cracks, and all hose clamps for correct tightness. There are many, many, hoses and clamps. You are looking for any vacuum leak, etc. Also check the PCV and/ or replace. There is a thread on this site on the PCV.

 

I ran by the dealer this morning. Turns out they forgot to have me sign the paperwork for the load ... Took the service manager on a test drive and managed to get the car to do it a few times. It goes in Monday so a master tech can take a look. They are doing all of the diagnostics for free and will work with me on any repairs that are not covered by the warranty.

 

I replied on your DIY post. We may have the same problem. Post a follow up when you can.

Our '11 RDX goes in on Wed, I will post a follow up with what they find.

Possible suspect could be a new winter vs summer fuel blend?

 

Please let me know what you find. My service manager is still thinking electronic, but I am not so sure. I am thinking fuel or spark.

i can tell you that the more I run it, the better the problem is becoming. I have some high quality 91 octane in the tank with a bottle of techron right now.

How many miles do you have on your DRR98?

 

We bought this car new and its never had a drop of any other gas than Chevron premium, which here in Cali is 91 octane. Around this time of year we here get a different blend of fuel. If this blend is different than last years summer blend we may be looking at this as a cause.

I can't wait to see what the dealer says. At least it seems I'm not alone in this. Is your problem happening even after the engine is fully heat cycled? It won't repeat in ours and wont happen unless its a cool/cold morning.

 

I am not from Cali, in Reno NV. Not sure if we use summer blends here. I am wondering if the gas in the tank was just cheap.

I am running a tank of 91 Shell VPOWER with a bottle of techron in it right now and I swear the more I drive it the better it is getting.

I can replicate the problem easily by giving it between 3/4 and full throttle. But the odd thing is that it doesn't do it everytime. Maybe two out of three. And they aren't as jolting as when I first posted this.

And once the first one or two bucks have passed it is back to normal. I would say the sensation is that it feels like the car is shifting, but its not. This morning the with the service manager I had to try twice before either of us felt it.

Will be curious to see what the root cause is.

 

I wouldn't be surprised to see the plugs make a difference. If it feels like a jolt under throttle that very well could be a misfire, and with 88k miles on the plugs they're about due. I found out last weekend just how fun plugs are on this car.

 

Its odd that yours is not throwing a malfunction code in obd. At least the dealer knows it is happening repeatably and is working on wringing it out.

 

The nice thing about Reno is it is very small, and almost all car brands are represented here. So they try to keep the customer happy.

 

If you end up putting in new plugs the bosch platinum 4 are a great plug. With the 4 electrodes its the next best thing to indexing them.

 

Ask your dealer if they have already changed the plugs. And if yes ask them about the brand. I heard some reports that Denso spark plugs can cause this in our cars.

 

has it been hot in Reno? bad gas + heat = retardation.

or potentially something with the variable turbine inlet actuation...

 

Its about 79 out right now. If they don't come up with something solid in on it this visit I am going to ask them to change the plugs out as a courtesy and save me the old ones. Kinda curious to see how they look.

 

I think a while back someone on here said they changed some plugs and the replacements that were supposedly pre-gapped were not correctly gapped... but I believe he was referencing something he thought was going on in the intake tract... more like a misfire...just another thought since there were previous owners.

...but if its getting better, you never know... they may have had a new car washer put 89 octane in it by mistake at some point.

 

Heard back from the Acura dealer today. Its going to need a new turbocharger and intercooler, all covered under the extended warranty.

 

Wow. Did they say why? Sounds like neglectful maint.. Glad you have coverage.

Update on ours: Picked it up this morning and all seems fine after replacing the d/s drive shaft. Crazy that it failed at only 67k mi. I hope the other ones hold up.

 

Well, since I just bought the car I can't really say how it was maintained prior to me owning it. They are holding on to the old Turbo and Intercooler so I can take a look at them when I pick them up. They said something about the turbo seals failing.

I called today and told them to change the plugs since the intercooler is already off the car and they should be easy to get at. If the parts come in I should have it back tomorrow or the day after.

 

Not blaming you at all. Used cars are a roll of the dice.

 

I didn't think you were DRR . I am pretty sure that if the car wasn't solid they would have sent it to auction. My guess is going to be that the previous owner knew the seals were failing and traded it before it was to bad. The cost of the turbo, intercooler and labor is going to be hanging around the 2500 - 4000.00 mark.