When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Its obvious there is at least a leak and loss of pressure.
around the throttlebody there are two rubber tubes circulating coolant in order to WARM UP the TB.
Remove and replace.
Rust seems/appears building up, be careful as one of those rubber tubes hooks up to a triple metal pipe called " pipe, install" on the parts lists, the other end connects to the back end of the engine, maybe the turbo . The metal hookup has very significant rust from the underside, mine split in several pieces during a service appointment and removal of the intercooler. Inspect it on the underside, between the engine block and battery/air filter box.
if the radiator is the original one, now is the best time to consider DIY replacement with a new one. An unexpected future failure would cost probably an order of magnitude more than doing it now, when you have to do related work anyway.
You have to make sure you find any leaks, loss of pressure points. Any such points will lower the boiling point down to just above 212F. Test and find out the coolant temperature that your fans activate at and compare. One of the pictures shows coolant on the lower radiator hose, quite unexpectedly away and IN FRONT of most of visible dried coolant around the TB and engine block. If there is no leak from the radiator to justify it then the coolant was ejected quite forcefully against the air flow at driving speed, visualise a line from the TB as a potential source and you will see my point.
I believe the corroded metal line under the air bypass valve is the culprit. Do you have the link to the part since you eluded to having to replace it yourself?
Also is the radiator a known issue because I haven’t had problems prior to this rusted line dripping all over my engine bay.
I believe the corroded metal line under the air bypass valve is the culprit. Do you have the link to the part since you eluded to having to replace it yourself?
Also is the radiator a known issue because I haven’t had problems prior to this rusted line dripping all over my engine bay.
radiator hookup failures is a known failure on the RDX and other acura models. Dissimilar metals in contact, leads to galvanic corrosion long before rust appears on the exposed nuts. Search about " radiator transmission", many threads on this rdx forum
Steel washer thickens up in time due to rust on its surfaces, the threads dont stand a chance and give way usually when there is extra pressure, think running at higher than normal temps. There may not be a long period of any leaks beyond few seconds.
In my tests, idling in stop&go traffic will quickly lead to the fan activation (temperature trigger) and that will keep coolant at a level below it; however the transmission does not appear to flow enough fluid and it passes past the same limit at a rate of about 3F/idling minute. What is your engine coolant temp when radiator fan activates without open hood, measure and report back maybe?
example below:
Plan to pressure test the entire system after fix. A pinhole leak wont be noticeable until too late, hard to inspect all the tubes anyway, and impossible to assess accumulated internal corrosion if any.
Yes, found pipe rusted through once it failed during service appointment:
mechanic found the leak, could not be patched. Used longer rubber tubes to bypass the rusted-through metal. I have the new part, not yet installed.
The messed up part is I got a Engine Coolant Fluid Flush 1/17/20 144,794 $144 and told them about that rusted line and the dealership told me not to worry about it. Now the coolant level is almost at the min level so I have to get another gallon of the Acura Coolant now.
Thanks for the link too it's the cheapest on the web and it's still almost $70!
Now I have to figure out how to install the pipe...
Use an obd2 connector to read the coolant temperature, the lcd display is too wide to get an exact reading.
every summer I drain the coolant, flush several times with distilled water, and refill for less than 40 CDN$, seems to help with minimizing the voltage difference through the radiator. I end up with 65-70% concentration for winter, bonus!
I ordered my install pipe that was rusted/corroded and was leaking coolant pretty bad. It came out to almost $90 with tax and shipping. It's genuine Honda and it says made in Japan. Got it online and took about a week to come. Will be attempting to do this myself. Let me know if anyone had a similar problem and has tips to replace this pipe. Wish me luck its 28 degrees here now and my garage is stuffed. My driveways is on an incline so street repair it is!
They make locking pliers that are intended to pinch off soft lines and keep the fluid contained; I've padded the jaws of small vise-grip pliers successfully for that function.
Apparently the rubber hoses need to be changed because they are leaking and the clamps don't have enough clamping force to hold on. So six new hoses and twelve new clamps. I'm at over $200 in parts already the dealer is crazy they want $480 in just labor!
did you ever end up getting this part replaced? looks like my 07 is starting a leak from those same pipes. Any tips on removing and replacing them? how to stop them for leaking when doing the replacement etc..? any tips would be good
Yes, my 2009 RDX needed coolant topped up since 2010 and by 2021 always stunk like coolant (after several
mechanics said it was fine)--when I looked one day it looked very similar to these photos--4 or 5 areas of these
corroded areas--I ordered the parts from Acura and changed everything,
