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Hello, I've already posted a thread regarding this topic but I'm circling back because it is unresolved. I've received some very helpful feedback from other members. I'm without a car and getting pretty desperate but can't afford to pay a mechanic so any advice forthcoming would be MUCH appreciated. Here's the issue, how I troubleshooted it so far, and what has been recommended.
Issue: ignition will advance to accessory II position, key turns fine, power lights up and all systems are operative, advance to start and nothing. I don't hear any clicking, hum, etc. as I've read may indicate a problem with the switch "relay" (part no. 35130-SAA-J51).
Action: I replaced this item, generic version for $20, and installed it without any issue. Car fired right up. It worked for 2 days and then returned to previous issue, key advances, starter doesn't engage.
Action: I replaced the generic part with the Honda OEM and nothing changed.
Recommended: check battery terminals, disconnect bluetooth module (could be draining battery), replace the entire ignition assembly, take it up the rear from the Acura dealer.
I know that I can purchase the entire ignition assembly used for $169. It will have to be reprogrammed which is at least $100. However, I was wondering if I should first replace the immobilizer (part no. 39730-STK-A01) before purchasing the entire ignition assembly??? I believe this also would need to be reprogrammed. Other members have suggested it may be an electrical issue (battery cables, bluetooth module draining the juice, etc). The battery terminals and cables look tip top. Is there a way to check the amperage going to the starter and would this eliminate a battery issue? This issue has been going on for over a year. Typically, when it happens, car doesn't start, after waiting a sec or two, try again and the car starts. I'm wondering why the first time I replaced the switch "relay" it worked for two days and then stopped. Please share any ideas. Thanks in advance (if you read through this entire thread that is)!!!
View of ignition assembly starter switch (removed) location Part replaced 2nd time with the OEM. Generic part that worked for 2 days.
I just followed the instructions and VOILA! the SOB just fired right up. As an act of good karma, I cancelled the return request for the generic switch I'd already purchased $20 and installed the OEM $70 (that I purchased after the generic "failed"). Note to self, until a problem is resolved, throw nothing away like the original switch that was perfectly fine. Angry
The following is posted at the top of the New Member Introductions Forum: Welcome! Please introduce yourselves here, BUT ASK FOR HELP IN THE TECHNICAL FORUMS
Since this is a topic/technical issue which will require replies and discussion, this thread has been moved from the New Member Introductions Forum to the model specific forum for better response.
Thank you for updating with the solution! It sounds as though too much metal in proximity was disrupting the ability of the car to recognize the chip key? Wild.
Sounds like push button starts would not have this issue. I didn’t think I would care about a push button start but now that I have another car with it, it’s kind of a pain in the butt to actually get your key out and use it. I know petty, but there is a difference between leaving your key in your pocket and having to make sure you have it out to turn the ignition.
I've lost track of all the "solutions" that I posted. Needless to say, every "fix" I performed was short lived. Nothing was addressing the root cause. After every solution (changing relay, changing key fob battery, removing all keys/metal that might have interfered with fob communication, etc.), the problem persisted. Why the fixes seemed to work at first was simply by coincidence/arbitrary nature of the problem. I sincerely hope, although no one has posted this as far as I understand, this topic will help another. I spoke with a friend/mechanic who I didn't bother prior as I didn't want to reveal my (I'm a dude that doesn't ask for directions) ignorance to a seemingly easy fix. He didn't even ask what I had tried. He knew why the problem was intermittent and why it was commonly misdiagnosed. The sensor that prevents the car from turning over in any "motion" gear (D, Manual, R) was fouled (dirty engine causes several sensors of all types to fail). This happens when the sensor doesn't detect that the transmission is either in P or Neutral. He showed me where it was (front of transmission on right side), brushed it off and the problem never occurred again. As a fail safe, he demonstrated (were this to continue) that the car can be started in N if it fails to turn over in P. Amen is all I can say to this saga!
Hey Pandaman, yep, that's the item. I didn't know the name/term for it. thank you for posting. It's working now so I don't plan to replace it until absolutely necessary. I believe the electrical component was fouled with dirt causing the starting issue. I really hope that others get to this post as this fix was never identified by any of the others that read it. It's instinctively going to trigger a response from the community to address the ignition/key components first while this "key advances to position II and all the lights power up but won't turn over to start the engine beyond that" problem is missed due to misunderstanding of the neutral safety switch. Again, thanks for the link to the OEM part, also the way I go when sourcing parts.
Fixed it (I hope)
