So a good 93 octane tune with full turboback has the potential to get close to 300 to the wheels assuming a proper tune ekes out another 35 hp (I think that is pretty reasonable since you can probably up the boost another lb or two with the TBE). He got 35 with with stock boost mappings.

What's the RDX up-pipe like? Does it have a cat?

 

The CP-E intake, just like any intake will not be spare, but take a look at Hondata's dynocharts done several months ago:



- Red solid line stock ECU Stock intake
- Dotted yellow - stock ECU CP-E intake
- Dotted light blue reflashed ECU stock intake
- Dotted dark blue reflashed ECU CP-E intake


You can compare this with Church Automotive RDX that features the 3" exhaust + Hondata ECU upgrade without any CAI:



"...horsepower and torque jump from 210whp@5000rpm/243lb-ft@3400rpm to 249whp@5500rpms and more than 290lb-ft@3400 rpm..."


The stock intake is not so bad and my idea was to order the K&N instead of CAI for that car.


(c) http://www.hondanews.com/categories/764/releases/4581


PANG_CO, did You order the Hondata and will You do the dynos again when the upgraded ECU will arrive?


PS: Who on Earth is able to manufacture those catless downpipe & midpipe ??

 

I agree on the Air Intake, same as most other turbo cars....ie evo's and sti's....unless you plan on doing a flash to make the most of the intake and air fuel ratios, you need to stick with the stock box. I think that is what I'm going to do.

However the places that I see that need attention are the same as some other peoples....3" turbo back, and the blow off valve is plastic...I think this needs to go.

Chris

 

I plan on building a FMIC first and then Hondata, I will most likely purchase a ECU from Hondata instead of reflashing mine so I can swap back and fourth to do testing. The car is in desperate need of a better intercooler. Back to back runs on the dyno results in bad heatsoak which hampers performance quite a bit.

I'm leaning more on producing these now that I have dyno data.

Charing up the camera now, will upload some vids/pics here shortly.

 

For the extra noise that'll be introduced with a 3" catback, I don't think its worth the extra few hp that'll come along with it. With just the 3" downpipe, midpipe, air intake and still with the stock 2.25" catback, exhaust note has already jump up significantly. My wife and baby use this vehicle as welll so I like it quiet. Unless you don't mind the loudness and attention then I'd say go for it. Otherwise I would opt for a 2.5" catback which will flow plenty for the output of this engine and available mods. If you plan on making alot of power, I see the transmission and reliability being the limiting factor.

The blow off valve is plastic but hold boost and responds very well. I would not mess with it as there are no performance gains.

 

Can't wait to see the video!!!

 

Wow...that is just with stock programming and stock exhaust. I agree what was said about going with 3". Not worth the minor gains and noise for me. Sounds like a good combo with the ATP exhaust.

Since you fabircated this DP, do you have plains on fabricating a 2.5" exhaust?

 

I meant ATLP

 

Pango...good to hear about the bypass valve holding well.....I'm used to my old evo days, the mitsubishi plastic ones are junk. Sound like I might be able to save some money on the BOV.

Chris

 

IMHO... Upgrading BOV is not necessary until Your boost reach >20 psi and installing the CAI with altered diameter is also a Phase II for RDX. AFAIK Hondata's ECU is adopted well for the upgraded exhaust and is not quite ready for any CAI. It's just as I could see at their dyno charts...

PANG_CO, You've done a great job, but believe me that installing FMIC is a pain. I did some researches among some people who did the swaps for Mazda3 Speed, CX7, Preludes w/turbo etc. They are ready to manufacture an intercooler, but You'll need to change many things from stock, including drossel, pipes etc. It'll cost a lot and won't surely give the great result. Maybe it is better to upgrade the stock TMIC to some aftermarket one ? ETS 3.25" ? BTW, Your o2 fix is pretty smart!

PANG_CO, how 'bout exporting some pipes?


PS: I also bought RDX for my wife, but I just fell in love with this car and... suppose she will not have it

 

... found in other thread:

 

Thank you sir. I've taken a quick look at building a fmic and it can be done without hacking up everything. The core I have here and plan on using will fit behind the bumper cover without much of any triming. I don't plan on using large diameter piping either to keep response as quick as possible. A fmic will defintely keep it cooler at all times. Think about when the car is parked for a shortly period of time or when the engine is running at a stop, all the heat raises straight to the Topmounted intercooler. We did repeated pulls on the dyno and it will loose power from heatsoak if it wasn't allowed to cool inbetween.

Azzie - You don't need to make a fmic bigger than the OEM to make it worth it. A smaller fmic will cool better than a tmic anyday and keep the ECU from retarding the timing from knock it may pick up due to heat. You would want a larger fmic if plans are to run higher boost pressure but I don't see that being a good idea if you want this auto transmission to last.

 

PANG - This is amazing, I just went on youthube and saw the video. Do you have any more vids/pics etc.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=8yHtnoWswQQ

 

I just put that vid up lol, working on the graphs now

 

cool I will stay on line...can't wait. BTW did you alter the stock air box to fit the K&N filter.

 

Dyno charts! First off thanks to Revolutions Performance again for letting me use their dyno. They house a Dyno Dynamics, which I believe are one of the best out there interms of accuracy. Although they are known to provide lower numbers, its the acuracy that matters...anyway

First chart shows overlay runs of stock then with 3" downpipe/midpipe then with air filter mod. Remember keep in mind these dynos read low and the difference in power gain is what you should be looking at.

Run with 3"downpipe/midpipe before intake mod.

Run with 3"downpipe/midpipe and intake mod.

Boost and Air/Fuel graph. The turbo runs about 12psi before 4500rpm then tapers to about 8psi by redline. Air/Fuel is very safe. I'm wondering if adding Hondata will lean it out anymore? Hondata wanna send me a ECU to test?


Couples vids...excuse my poor filming skills.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Op0blNDfXz4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yHtnoWswQQ

 

And a bonus pic of the MPG I pulled on the way home from the dyno. Fuel was topped off 2 blocks away from the facility before dynoing . Yes it was little trip each way. It was at 29.5mpg at one point lol.

 

Why being so sarcastic? I'm not a mechanical guy that's why I can just discuss the matter with people I'm used to trust. There is no need to persuade me that FMIC is cool. I know this and eagerly wait for you to finish u'r idea just as you finished these two pipes.

PS: What about Hondata? Should not they adopt they firmware to the new modz, how do you think?

 

There was no sarcasism in that....just stating its possible without any major modification and sharing info...

 

whoa.

 

Pang those are great numbers, that is an amazing increase. Good work. Here is my question......Can the cat delete downpipe be used and put a metal core race cat where the mid pipe is? There seems to be a lot more room to work in the midpipe area for a high flow cat....I like to keep things legal. Can the O2 sensor wires be extended to reach the midpipe area?

Again That Downpipe looks great, nice welds

Chris

 

this is awesome stuff. put it into production please!

 

Thank you sir.

The midpipe would be the best canidate to place a high flow cat. As there is one there from the factory. The o2 wires can be extended behind it but may still throw a check light from the high flow cat if you don't do the fix for it.

 

PANG_CO, excellent work my friend!!

Now start the production already!! I'm in for a set of everything!!

Mark

 

Thanks guys!

I'm still druming up interest. If theres enough, I will most likely be able to start production around early August or so. I estimated pricing to be in the 850 to 900.00 range for the kit. If it goes through I will contact admin to see about becoming a site sponsor.

 

You still have our attention...eager to put bolt on this on my 08

 

Still wondering if this exhaust will fit Hondata reflash for they remain deadly silent regarding their first RDX mod made in collaboration with Church Automotive.

 

What amazes me is that with all the attention that Church gets, and the testimonial from Hondata, why Church won't respond when I ask how to buy the exhaust system.

I've tried emails. I think I'll try a phone call tomorrow.

Has anyone had any commerical experience with Church?

 

From what I've been able to learn, they are a dyno shop and very busy at it. Too busy to bother with a low-production exhaust. Take this as hearsay, but I was told that once Church approached a production facility to make the exhaust, they disappeared into a black hole. So don't hold your breath for that exhaust or a custom Hondata reflash.

Azzie, the brick wall I got when I asked Hondata about development is their company policy - it's posted on their website in the forum - they simply won't discuss R&D. I found that out later when I dinked around their website. Evidently they won't even discuss not discussing it.

None of the above is intended or should take away from the excellent, well-deserved reputation these 2 companies have. I am totally enjoying my reflash with the CP-E intake!

 

I've heard a lot about Hondata & Church and the only thing I hope that they compiled their collaboration experience in the reflash they sell because the other way exhaust will not have that effect both with the reflash & intake.


Pang, what do You think about installing a high flow cat in the midpipe?

 

Pang: count me in as interested!

 

Simply still amazed by this...

 

That is a high possibility.

 

The way I see it is that the Hondata flash will work excellently with either the Church or the ATLP exhaust systems and judging by all the comments posted it would seem to me that the guys over at ATLP are easier to deal with!
I think that what would be good business is that for any turbo downpipe being developed for the masses, be able to mate with a factory cat as far as location and distance is concerned. So even if the flanges from various vendors dont match excactly it would be nothing that a quick visit to the muffler shop couldnt solve!
Now if a vendor makes a complete system then obviously - problem solved!
I do believe that if one were to install a complete system (turbo back), it would be safer to stay with the stock ECU programe which has a richer A/F ratio than the Hondata (current available flash). And when the complete system becomes available then Hondata will be able the tune and extract even more power!

 

I agree with You regarding the upgrades. Current reflash should not correspond to any upgrade, but I have no belief that Hondata will do just ANYTHING to their program. I've asked them via PM & in forum. It's final

 

If you check the ATLP exhaust thread you will see that as they install products to 'free up' the system, the A/F ratio leans out!

 

The factory afr's are actually quite rich. A 10.8 afr was probably used to compensate for people who decide to run 87 octane fuel in their vehicle. But if I am correct, the people who are in this subforum are looking for performance increases and majority would run premium octane fuel even without any upgrades, so bad fuel is usually out of the equation.

Theoretically, the burned AFR of gasoline to produce the most torque is 12.5-12.8. Many tuners and many factory turbo cars usually bring this a/f ratio down to 11.5-11.8 to give a margin of safety, but only on premium gasoline. An AFR of 11.3 is pretty safe when running 91, or even 89 octane (although it is best we should avoid low octane/low quality fuels). Depending on how advanced the ignition timing on these motors are, you could lean the afr out to 11.8-12 without causing much problems (assuming you are on good fuel).

I myself have a turbo e30 which I tune it myself, and I always shoot for about 11.8 afrs under full boost.

 

Hey, Pang, sorry bout little offtop but have You got any updates on the FMIC & Hondata reflash?

 

Pang, I'm more curious about the DP install... I know you said you had to take the intercooler and brackets off, but other than that, would it really be all that difficult for us shade-tree mechanic out here in SoCal come smog time in 5 years??

 

...and i'm extremely interested in your FMIC project... any thoughts to a V mount set up, or would ducting complicate things waaaay too muchj?