PANG_CO

Built a replacement 3" downpipe and B-pipe for the family go getter (Acura RDX). The OEM pieces are a huge restriction. Going off the turbine discharge at 3.5" then bottle necks to 2" through the cats then to a 2.25 catback. Right now I have the 3" reduced to mate with the 2.25 OEM catback until I decide further on what to replace it with (has to stay quiet). Still a huge difference can be felt. Floor it from a dead stop and the front tires squeal till the rear wheels kick. Cruising at steady speeds are effortless. Also installed a gauge to monitor boost spike/creep, boost stays rock solid. No pesky check engine lights as well. Next is Hondata and to the dyno. Enjoy






Here it is installed before the OEM heatshield was put back in place.

batman

Nice. I definitely looking forward to this mod.

MMike1981

if this guy can do it....tl parts should be able to...cmon guys.

DanRDX

How much will you sell it for and can I take it to a local muffler shop to install?

cwepruk

I'm assuming the bottom connection has been modified since there is no flange on the DP?

Looks like a cool mod. Any comment on install time?

CaSHMeRe

looks like he used a V-Band clamp on one end and a standard discharge flange on the other.

ps. -- dp looks great! welds look good. did you fab this up yourself?

PANG_CO

Thanks guys. I do fabwork daily so its nothing new to me. I work for pfabrications_dot_com. There are no plans to produce or sell these at the moment (mods I can edit my post if theres a issue please PM me).

Total time with removing old parts, fabbing new pieces and installing was near 8-9 hours. I would say 3 hours tops for install time if the pieces were already premade.

Tips for anyone looking to attempt this. The OEM Cat right off the turbo is a pain to remove, there is absolutely no space to squeeze it out. You either have to drop the transfercase to remove from the bottom or pull intercooler and surrounding brackets to remove from the above. I went with removing the intercooler mainly because I didn't have fluid around to refill the transfercase nor did I want to lol. It is very important to heatwrap or ceramic coat the downpipe because it emits alot of heat.

Cashmere your correct. The connection from the downpipe to the b-pipe is v-band. I'll post a couple more pics with the OEM heatshield back in place and underneath shortly to give a better idea.

wspy

Oh Maan!
You're a darn tease sir

Ok What will it take for you to build another one

DanRDX

Yea what would it take for you to build two more, and posting step by step instructions on how to remove the old and replace the new. I am hopeing that standard wrenches and rachets can be used?

PANG_CO

Sorry guys, as much as I would like to produce them my workload/schedule is very tight to take this on. Plus I would need to gauge enough interest..at least 10 orders to start because a jig will need to be built and test fitted over and over to ensure fitment. Afterwards it will need to be sent to my coater for a heat barrier coating.

DanRDX - Tools that were used are: Socket & box end wrenches, phillips & flat drivers, needle nose plyers, pick, and a air rachet. Your pretty basic hand tools. All were done with the car on jackstands.

MMike1981

i stand corrected...the DP is a pain in the ass.....u think it was intentionally put where it is to prevent tinkering or is it just the lay of the land under there

PANG_CO

Looks like it was a bit of both. Removing the OEM pieces take the longest. Install goes much quicker as its not bulky. Definitely worth the upgrade and probally the best noticable power mod next to Hondata.

DanRDX

Will you can count me in for one....I am sure once the word gets around you should get at least 9 more by the end of the week.... I know I am getting ahead of myself but how much would this cost and would you need a deposit as a sign of commitment?

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

Great work! How intense was the removal part of the OE cat? We actually are planning to create a DP with out exhaust system, but weren't certain how many RDX-owners would be eager to dive into all this labor.

Maybe you could enlighten us about the removal process?

PANG_CO

The IC and surround brackets/ shields need to be removed to uninstall from above. From the bottom you will need to drop the transfer case to remove the primary. Thats about all. Reinstall process is same except it goes alot faster.

superpowers

i'm sorry for being silly...but i don't know anything about cats.

what does deleting this cat do for the vehicle? thanks!

wspy

It frees up the exhaust flow alowing for less back pressure which equals to a quicker turbo spool up and more HP

I'm in for one!!!

rdxtrme

Add me to the list for the 10 people who want this mod. I am for sure if you are willing to make this for the rdx. What a great piece, the welds are beautiful.

MMike1981

i think, knowing now about the DP setup, this engine has alot of intentional hold backs for further MMC's or redesign headroom (its dyno's already prove it to be underrated). these "bottle necks" are simply resolveable issues if done at the factory with minor tweaking (increase a pipe .25 of an inch etc), and thus seeming the DP is how it is from the factory, a slight tweak in size/connection yields very easy power and an incr in specs whala tons of headroom for further models ('10, '11 etc) i wonder why its so restrained (my guess is to keep its power rating underneath the MDX/TL to keep it mid pack in the line up, which i dont agree with)

cwepruk

I would guess the easiest way to limit power would simply be to limit boost, some thing which can be programmed in the ECU. It would save manufacturing a new exhaust to gain a few ponies.

So many cars have horrible exhaust systems from the factory to try and get the cat as close to the engine as possible for emissions. I just wish this was an easy one to change.

brizey

How are you dealing with the engine management? I assume that deleting the cat results in a CEL eventually--maybe not at first. It took about 100 miles sometimes in a WRX. Are you monitoring boost with a real boost gauge to make sure there is no creep, etc.? Are you monitoring EGT or A/F somehow to make sure you are not running too lean? Does anyone know what kind of duty cycle the injectors are running (how much fueling overhead is there)?

Just raising a point--in general you can't just slap on a down pipe and call it a day. For one thing, you may damage the engine. For another, you are probably missing 50% of the potential power gains by not making adjustments to the boost map, fuel trims, etc.

There is lots of stuff we don't really know about this motor. I'm sure Hondata knows the answer to most of these questions.

I just wanted everyone to know that the DP is not the end of the story--that your trip to Hondata is the important part.

cwepruk

Almost any turbo car can do a turboback exhaust without any real need for tuning or fuel adjustments. It's been done for a long time on almost every car, though the WRX is one of the few that boost creep when cold was an issue, but that was typically with a full 3" catless turboback and caused by the tiny wastegate.

With 10:1 AFR on the stock engine, I wouldn't be too worried about fuel, except to trim it back.

The CEL is something I'm curious about though.

SinCity

Send a proto to Aznbo 187 (for a small fee) so he can make the jig and have it make to their exhaust.

superpowers

i hope ATLP gets this sorted out and figures how to deal with all those problems. then have hondata step in to do some fine tuning i can't wait for more power!

SinCity

He may not even get a CEL since he retained the O2. I ran a DP for over a month before I got the Stage II reflash on my '07 GTI. What it did on my GTI was change the power curve and added a little more on the top. You really need a reflash to take advantage of the extra boost provided with a DP. But phuk, getting it off is such a PITA.

PANG_CO

So far about 200 miles, everything still going good. I have installed a real boost gauge to monitor spike/boost and haven't seen anything unusal(first post). Weather here has been 40-95F lately. I did the mechincal fix to take care of the secondary o2 and no check engine light. Hoping to get it on the dyno here before my 2500+ mile trip with the vehicle next month so it will see some good testing.

DanRDX

Please keep us posted on the Dyno results and if you will produce this DP for sale to the public...alot of us RDX owners would be interested in this bolt on HP.

PANG_CO

Nothing ruled out yet but dyno is scheduled for tommorrow afternoon. Will report back with result shortly after, thanks.

CaSHMeRe

meachanical o2 fix ... did you use spark plug non-foulers ?!?!?

excited about the results !!! hopefully, it unleashed MASSIVE potential!

PANG_CO

Spark plug foulers were use in addition to the extended o2 bung. The foulers by themselves aren't enough with how upstream the 2nd o2 is on the downpipe.

Dyno got rescheduled on me for next friday. Right as I left the door, got a call from the dyno facility informing me there is a huge accident and that most likely won't make it down there on time before they left to the track. Its about a 1.5 hour drive each way..sorry fellas.

wspy

What in heavens name are spark plug foulers and how do they work and what do they do?
Bummer on the dyno time!

PANG_CO

Basically positions the secondary o2 sensor out of the exhaust stream and shields it enough to fool the ecu in thinking the cat is there and functioning so it won't trip the check engine light.

xav

Sorry for my noob questions but wont this mod get some in trouble?
Cat stands for Catalyser?

After this mod, would the RDX still pass the emission control in California?

In Florida (where I live now) there is no such control but for exemple in France (where i am from) any car older than 3 year has to go trough a "Technical Control" every year. They check you break balance, your lights, your emissions, your shocks and your catalyser (for models who come with one). Those who mod their cars and get rid of the catalyser have to bribe or "be friend with" the guy or company who runs the control to get his car approved...

So yeah, in Florida no problem with cat delete, but I am not sure how it works in other states...

wspy

Oh ok, Thanks!

VeNeNo

iTrader: (1)

The front wheels peel until the sh-awd kicks in wow, I need one of these things... The only deterent would be mechanical issues if any and the installation (sounds dangerous) but if your making some kind of list for people interested you can put down VeNeNO for one!

vrflyer

Very nice, well job done...

DanRDX

Hey any update on the Dyno runs or Production Status

PANG_CO

Update
Hp gain with downpipe & midpipe 36.5whp
Tq gain with downpipe & midpipe 23.1wtq

Hp gain with K&N conical filter mod, downpipe, midpipe 39.9whp
Hp gain with K&N conical filter mod, downpipe, midpipe 25wtq

Pics and vid to come

pinnaclecustoms

So your K&N Filter Mod only made about 3 hp and 2 tq. I didn't expect that. That has me questioning getting the cp-e air intake. Does anyone know what the "real" numbers are on that? Amazing numbers on the downpipe though.

Hope to see the videos soon

Chris

DanRDX

Yes I agree, I don't think the CP-E is worth the extra $, I just took of the air resonator, the plastic tube in front of the stock filter box and it feel the same as when I have the weapon R air filter on....I think this mod that PANG has created is really the best I have heard of so far, I can't wait to see the video, etc.