Hi all, long time lurker, just signed up for the forums as I'm planning to do some modifications to my RDX. I own a 2011 tech with 200k km, it's been great to me so I'd like to give it a little love. What are the best bang for the buck performance mods for this vehicle? Reflash? Downpipe, CAI? Also looking for advice with replacing the high beam/drl and interior light bulbs but I believe this isn't the place to ask that. Looking forward to what people have to say.

Thanks in advance, Jeff

 

Hondata IMO. 30hp immediately and easy install, plus it sets the stage/allows you to take advantage of anything else you do.

Made a big difference in my truck.

 

There’s a thread about 9 posts down from this one (literally has bang for the buck in the title) that’s one of the most comprehensive threads in this section. It has your answer and more.

 

Awesome thanks, I'll check that out. Mods are currently on hold for now as I crossthreaded the rear left shock and need to order another. Also an engine light came on after I completed maintenance today so I'd like to figure that out, believe it's just a sensor. Driving to get gas the "check emissions system" and "check SH-AWD" lights came on simultaneously.

Thanks, Jeff

 

Check your fuses and battery. Keep us updated with the modifications.

 

Sure thing, I pulled the code today and got p2263. Going to replace the vgt solenoid/actuator piece and go from there.

Jeff

 

Alright, just curious if you take it easy under 4K rpm do you still get the code? I only got it when I was driving hard near the top end 6k.

 

The code came on when I was cruising to get gas, at about 100km, 2.5k or so rpm. I did accelerate hard turning onto the highway, definitely got above 6k there. The car has been shaking when accelerating, believe this is the turbo as well but don't see how the seemly somewhat common vgt actuator wear would cause this.

Jeff

 

I only threw the code above 6k when I hit it to pass on the highway. Wondering if the computer just messes up with the sudden full boost at the top end of the rpm range. Try disconnecting the battery for twenty minutes then reconnecting it and see if I comes back after not going above 4K rpm.

 

I disconnected the battery last night for 5 or so minutes to reset the code. Took it easy going to pick stuff up today, no high rpms. After 230km both codes came on. Pulled over and restarted the car to make the sh-awd light go away. Car seems to drive fine but shakes when I get into the turbo accelerating as well as the check emissions light.

Jeff

 

Wonder if you have poor gas or a bad sensor in the exhaust (oxygen sensor).

 

It's certainly possible, I've always fed her premium. Hoping it's a sensor but I don't think that would explain the shaking, feels like badly balanced tires but that's not it.

Jeff

 

Got the code sorted, car is set to be flashed tomorrow at a nearby shop, same as hondata. I'm planning to get an ets intercooler. Anyone have any ideas on where I could find one? New or used is fine. Also planning to do some sort of intake and maybe the downpipe if I can find one.

Jeff

 

If you’re going to do additional engine bolt ons, especially downpipe, don’t waste your time with the reflash. Buy a FlashPro up front. You’re going to need more fuel after intake, intercooler, and exhaust.

If you can wait, buy a FlashPro, buy the engine and fuel upgrades, do it all at once. If you’re a bit more impatient, buy the FlashPro, do intake, exhaust, intercooler, have it tuned. Then do downpipe, injectors, pump, (and turbo if you want) and then retune.

 

Had the car reflashed yesterday morning, so far so good. It's a nice boost in power and a bit smoother to drive. Anyone have any idea where I could get my hands on an ets intercooler? Reccomended intakes?

Thanks, Jeff

 

ETS intercooler and stock the same, water-air intercooler it's best way. You can buy all need parts on frozenboost or aliexpress.

 

Turns out my axles were bad. Only 70k on my 2012. Day after I got it repaired it was like driving a new car! Love driving this guy now that I have to UberEats during this $#@&!? Pandemic

 

I beg to differ!

 

Not equals but similar! Anyway this is top mounted air-air intercooler and it's not working when hot weather. 10hp for 800$.. this is price of full kit of water-air intercooler. It's gives you much more hp and more stability temperature when hot.

 

Without dynamometer run it's just words.

 

This is just physics. Blowing on a frying pan standing on a hot stove is useless))

 

and throwing water on a hot pan can burn you. Unless you hook a chiller to your tank, you're still using ambient air for cooling.

 

I will hook chiller to tank naturally) This ambient air for cooling will be outside not under the hood. Full kit of water-air intercooler includes actually water-air intercooler, water pump and outside water radiator.
For example picture of kit for RDX by guys from r2racing. This is not advertising, I was looking for what kind of intercooler is better to do and I think this is the best option for cooling and reducing lag.
When outside is -10 -30 degree, stock intercooler is great! but..

​​​​​

 

Yep...That system looks good....and they claim a 25hp increase too.

 

Post up some pictures of your installation

 

But this is stable 25hp if it the first run or second or third. On air-air intercooler decrease of hp on second run will be about 10-15hp, anyway ETS or stock. It's problem for all top mounted air-air intercooler.

I will, but only next year. While all need parts comes, winter will begin Now i have only 3" downpipe and reflesh for 100 gas

 

Oh...ok

 

I only have 93 octane gas ⛽️ I wish I had 100 octane gas ⛽️.

You’re forgetting the ETS Intercooler sits in the stock location which means its getting all that air from where the acura symbol in the grille. So you’re getting a bunch of outside air rammed into the intercooler. Then there is no bottom so the hot air escapes through the bottom of the engine bay which below the bumper has a lower grille where the transmission cooler is as well.

For pictures and dynamic graphs check my thread build out...

 

93 in US and 100 in Russia are same, difference in octane calculation method. I don't mean race fuel)

I dont forget about this, but top-mounted intercooler housing under the hood and it's sitting over of the hot engine. You can demount cover of intercooler and touch it by hand after slow ride, so you can feel temperature of intake air. Subaru drivers know about this and they change stock to the front intercooler) ETS is better then stock intercooler. But i'm sure that water-air is better for same price. Front mounted cooler great too, but it increace lag, where RDX too slow on 0-60.

 

If you put the water to air intercooler that would be an awesome 👏🏻 write up! I don’t think that has been done ✅ yet...

 

I crawled under the car and I'm able to move the axles a bit. Thinking this is my issue. Did you replace both front axles and that's it?

Thanks, Jeff

 

That’s only a problem on front wheel drive not all wheel drive I believe...

 

Turbo Lab has a TD04 turbine upgrade and when you click to buy it is linked to Amazon. They say it's good for 325hp and 400tq. Now to find someone local that can do the machining
You searched for TD04HL - Turbo Lab

 

They have done a ton of our turbo’s

 

I'm hoping for someone more local than 2500 miles away. I'm at that point in my life where I want to drop the car off and say, do this.

 

I guess I should rephrase that. Mechanically, I would rather take it somewhere. My ILX stays in the garage and I'm doing simple body mods that aren't heavy, major, down-time things.
https://acurazine.com/forums/ilx-pho.../#post15996907

 

I went to a local shop that can make the RDX stupid, but they are booked until September. I won't be here to enjoy it because Jesus is coming for His bride September 20th, oh well.

 

Take it to a local shop have them take out just the turbo and you could mail it to them. They’ll do the turbo work and mail it back to you. Then you just have that shop install it for you. They should be more than willing to store if for free since they’re getting some good work out of you.

 

I took it to a shop that can do it all. Turbo Lab upgrade, RV6, flashpro, catback, front mount, injectors, fuel pump, dyno tune. Like I told him, go stupid, light all 4 with a pedal stomp.