Before I run out and go get the Motive Power Bleeder (I know, I know, it would make it a lot easier...or so it seems). How would I go about doing a flush and fill with the traditional pumping-the-brake-pedal method?

I've bled the brakes on my old Accord, but it wasn't a full flush and fill. Do I just go in bleed order and pump/fill until the fluid runs clear? That doesn't make too much sense to me because it seems doing it this way would get the new fluid mixed in with the old fluid.

Any help/direction would be appreciated!

 

I use the Motive power bleeder for a full fluid exchange.

But if I'm just bleeding the calipers I use a hand vacuum, such as a Mity Vac. Hand vacs are usually less expensive than a power bleeder and allow for one man bleeding.

Hand vac will do a full fluid exchange also, just slower. When fluid runs clean at all 4 calipers you have a full exhange.

 

So the power bleeder or hand vacuum eliminates the need for a second person to either pump the brake pedal or control the bleeder screw at the caliper? If I do have a second person, is the process just bleeding one caliper at a time (in the correct order) until the fluid from that caliper runs clear? (Of course maintaining the proper level of brake fluid in the reservoir is also required.)

 

both those comments are spot on !!!

 

Yes always keep the reservoir full, so you don't draw in air. Start by emptying the res and filling it with clean fluid, so you don't have to pull as much old fluid through the system.

With either a pressure bleeder or vac I work one caliper at a time (in order). When using a press bleeder, just open the bleed valve and let it flow. Check and keep press up at the unit while bleeding.

When using a vac apply vacuum before opening the bleed valve, maintain vacuum while bleeding and closing the bleed valve, then you can release vacuum.

 

Great! Thanks, guys!

 

I have used a MityVac on my bikes (motorcycles), but never on a car. Air is always sucked past the bleeder valve threads, and a bunch of air bubbles flow out of the hose into the vac. On the bikes I just ignored the bubbles, and there did not seem to be any air in the calipers. But ...

On a car, I would be more worried about this. So how do you prevent air leakage past the bleeder valve threads? I am uncertain that I want to pull the valves, and wrap the threads with teflon tape, as that has its own problems. I have also used silicone grease around the threads, but again, not sure I want to do that on a car.

Thoughts?

 

Not much can be done about it. With a vac, you always see leakage bubbles. I just bleed till the fluid is fresh and then go another 100 ml to insure I got any air out. The pedal has always been firm afterwards. After many times, I'm confident it works. I use the vac for a quick bleed, like for pad replacement, and the power bleeder for full fluid replacement. The same pedal firmness is evidence that the air is evacuated either way.

Having watched the air leave during power bleeding, you also get a feel for when it's cleared during vac bleeding. Plus of course -- don't let any air in and there won't be any air. Keep the res full and always have vac on the bleeder when it's open.

 

At 10 years, my 2007 has had its fluid changed 3 times (by me). I've used a MityVac every time, gotten LOTS of air bubbles (coming in past the bleeder threads, I've concluded), but there was never any reason to suspect air in the system in the first place. No brake trouble in all this time. I've averaged between 1 and 1-1/2 cans (12 - 18 oz) of Honda fluid each time, and I SUSPECT I've left SOME old fluid in each time. Close counts here, I'd say. My old hand DOES get tired on the MityVac. I pull about 2 oz from each front caliper and about 4 oz from each rear caliper; NO idea how this compares to volumes in the brake system. If I could get recommended minimum volumes for each caliper, I'd use them. But all THAT depends on how thoroughly you remove and replace fluid from the reservoir BEFORE starting with the calipers (I get about 6 oz from there).