Ok, so I just got my parts in (coil and clutch) from acura and I also did some small diagnostics while waiting for the fed ex guy. It seems the clutch engages just fine when the car has been sitting a while but then after about 5 mintues (maybe less), the clutch doesnt engage/cycle anymore. I replaced and swapped the relays already but this doesnt change the clutch behavior. Any insight on this? A mechanic friend of mine is leaning toward the a/c pressure switch being bad but are they know to go bad? I am think the coil is shot? Any thoughts?

 

Did this job today, replacing the field coil, ugh. The TSB said to replace it while down at the bottom through the wheel well but pulling the compressor up to the top is easier. Of course as I was putting it back down I knicked the radiator and sprung a leak, ugh. Have JB weld on it right now, hope it holds. Thanks for the writeup, it was great. I bought a 3 jaw puller from harbor freight and it worked perfect to pull the pulley.

After I was talking to a friend, he told me next time put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to avoid damage, great advise, too late for me.

 

Any one have tips on putting the pulley back on? Mine is not going on easy and I don't want to damage the bearing or compressor shaft. I tried using a rubber mallet, but with the limited working area and nothing really holding the compressor firmly, it's not going in easily.

For anyone planning to try this replacement, be sure to get the correct ring plier to make the job easier. So far I would have to say the most difficult part was getting the last snap ring off holding the field coil in place. I tried a bunch of pliers, but the only one that finally worked for me were the Knipex 4911A2 External Straight Precision Retaining Ring Pliers

 

Finally got the pulley in. Took a while, but it's finally in. Now to put everything else back together. Wish me luck.

 

I just finished replacing the field coil. What a job that was! Smh. Biggest hold ups for me was running to the parts store looking for a bigger snap ring pliers (grabbed husky 8" - worked great) and replacing the radiator. When I removed the fan I noticed ALT of coolant residue at the bottom ledge of the radiator. Last year I changed the coolant and noticed it was low it was when I drained it but couldnt find a leak. Still cant find the leak but after knicking the radiator while wrenching on the compressor (compressor slipped off the coolant reservoir mount....sigh) it was a done deal.

I will say to anyone that wants to complete this on their own should also remove the alternator (gives you more room) and remove the radiator or put a large thick piece of cardboard over it to protect the unit while working on the compressor.

I held the compressor almost vertical with one hand and pressed the pulley back on with a rubber mallet. Its good to have someone helping while doing this but if not, it can be done with some patience.

Lol, same here. I initially thought I should do that but started digging in and before I knew it, the compressor fell and the radiator sprung a leak. I tried JB weld but wasn't successful plus I had another leak somewhere as there was coolant residue that built up over time.

 

My hat's off to you for even attempting this, bro. I will dive in a do a lot, but at this point in life, I'll be taking mine to the shop if the a/c goes.

 

Thanks! I should have gotten this done a long time ago but clearly I needed half to a whole day to complete this. I pondered taking it to acura but I just didnt want to pay atleast $1000 or more to get it done when I KNEW i could do it myself. Time was always my enemy as my side business keeps my super busy on the weekends in the summer.


I will add that I initially measured my field coil resistance and I got about 8.3 ohms or so. New one measured in at 3.8 ohms. I did have to shim the new clutch (to get a gap between .25mm-.65mm) a bit because I pressed the new pulley back quite a bit. I honestly cant see how anyone could do this in the wheel well of the vehicle.

 

Thanks BIT359 for the instructions. I just finished replacing my AC clutch last night (took me 2 nights to finish). During the job, I would say it was difficult as i had some complications during some of the steps. Looking back on it, i probably would have paid someone to do it than to take on the challenge.

Also, I would add a 4th trouble shooting step is to check if your car is low on freon. The ac clutch will not engage if the car is low on freon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I just did the A/C coil repair outlined in bit's post. I followed everything he said and it turned out to be a bad coil. Here are some other observations:

1. I rented the tools from Autozone and they did not carry the extra puller jaws as stated so I went out and bought them. I'm not sure they were needed since the jaws on the existing puller could not reach the bottom of the pulley, but did work when the jaws pulled the pulley from the top.

2. When unbolting the AC compressor I had no trouble removing the 2 bottom bolts but had a time trying to get the 2 top bolts. It turns out that the left sided bolt on the top is tucked underneath the alternator and I actually removed the alternator bolt and not the AC compressor bolt. Thinking that the alternator was holding the compressor from pulling away from the engine, I removed the alternator and then realized that I still had to remove the compressor bolt. My mistake...I also removed the bottom radiator hose in to the engine since that was in the way. Yes, I lost some antifreeze but no big deal. With the hose out of the way and the alternator off, the compressor came right out and I zip tied it to the bolt hole for the reservoir so it would be stable enough to work on.

3. I thought I had a the proper retainer clip pliers but I didn't and I ended up just mangling the clip and pulling it out. It was a PIA but was fine.

4. Taking the parts off of the compressor were fine after removing the clips and I saw the burned-out coil was the problem. As suggested I bought the CR-V repair kit for $46 on Ebay and not the Acura specific brand and it is identical.

5. Everything went back together easily except the damn clips that hold the trim underneath the car that I needed to take off to get the 2 bottom bolts. I did what I could and used zip ties for those clips that were busted up. It was fine.

Overall it took me about 5 hours from start to finish and if I had to do it again I'm sure I would cut that time in half. It was a fairly simple project with the help from this post. And now the A/C is working fine. Definitely worth the time to do it myself. Thanks to all above for the help.

 

Did you take any pictures or any videos...?

Thanks for the write up!

 

No. Sorry. Only the posted observations.

 

Alrighty maybe next time...

 

A few years later, another Thank You note to bit359 for the excellent write-up.

I used the information in this thread to replace the clutch and the field coil in my 2009 TSX. Here are a few notes I would like to add:
0. It is essential that you protect the radiator with cardboard. I would have most likely punctured it on a couple occasions otherwise.
1. I also removed the alternator to make more room to work.
2. I lifted the compressor and seated it on the lower alternator mounting bracket then secured it in place with a couple tie wraps.

 

Here is a picture of the compressor lifted and secured with tie wraps:

 

I am currently using these instructions on my 08 TSX. I hope I can do this job from the passenger side wheel well area without having to unbolt the ac compressor.

 

Thanks to the OP for the original write up!

I also wanted to share info, make some updates, and also offer some opinions and information.

For starters, I think the failing relay is the precursor to the failing field coil. Not sure which of the two is the original cause of the end result, but change my mind... It could either be the high amp draw of the failing field coil that fries the relay, or the failing relay that doesn't pass current as good that damages the field coil. I think it is the first, but the two failures come hand in hand and are related. I had the relay issue a year ago. It was intermittent, then fine, then failed totally at the worst possible time, at the beginning of a return trip from summer vacation, and I did not get it figured out until after we got back home.

+++ You should not be adding refrigerant to this system unless you have proper 134A gauge set for high/low pressures and the specs to know the pressure is right, or means to evacuate the system and then weigh in the proper charge. This is not banter at all, just telling you all the truth. This car is equipped with a TXV metering device. If you know it is low and you need to add a little and don't have these tools, at least get the AC Avalanche brand from the store with the vent clips, follow the instructions and add slowly until it starts getting cool, watch the clips, etc. Otherwise you are probably going to overcharge the system which is not good. I think this is why other companies that do the recharge cans got rid of the nice low pressure guage with the dial for temperature to give the fill pressure range. TXV equipped vehicles have variable pressure depending on the variable expansion valve. They also seem to run lower pressures. Also, what I mean by knowing it is low is you know you have a known leak already, or you have jumpered the switch to cycle the compressor and it has very low pressure. I think this system is set up to cycle out when it pulls down under 25 psi. So in this instance it might run, but short cycles the compressor off even though you have the AC on wide open, and guage confirms it trips off once getting down below 25 psi.

Also wanted to update on the tools, #'s etc

OEMTOOLS A/C Clutch Holding Tool

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-a-c-clutch-holding-tool

• Part # 57000
• SKU # 150540

(new numbers)

OEMTOOLS A/C Clutch Pulley Puller

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-a-c-clutch-pulley-puller

• Part # 27001
• SKU # 472357

Just be smart and patient and use this on the front lip of the old pulley. If it has been used much it will flare and come off (not flying off) during pulling. Just put it back on and watch that the pulley is moving. It should come right off. If it don't use some real penetrating lube on the shaft at the bearing and come back later, or go find the longer jaws to pull from the back. Mine came right off no problem.

OEMTOOLS Serpentine Belt Tool Kit for Removal and Installation of Serpentine Belts 9 Piece

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...tine-belt-tool

• Part # 57115
• SKU # 298547

This tool is a waste of time. It does not have a 14mm socket. Even if it did, your tensioner pulley bolt would have to be oriented just right for it to work as the tool does not ratchet. You might get at it with the angle adjust on the extension bar, but it is 1/2" drive and most 14mm 1/2" drive sockets won't fit. If you are not strong enough you will need this and you'll need your own 12 point 14mm socket and then you might find one of the 4 positions the socket can be on the 3/8" drive will allow you to move the bar to loosen tension. I can't speak to using it from the bottom in the wheel well. I got fed up, put a 14mm wrench on it. It ended up in about the 2 o'clock position and I put some muscle on it and slipped the belt off the power steering pulley. Done. You can pull the belt up and sort of wedge it to the motor mount so you don't have to re-route the whole thing.


Also, I skipped the jacking and jackstands and removing the right front wheel. I just turned the wheel to the right. This saved some time and reserved my patients for the stupid clip removal to get the front air dam of
I also skipped removing the alternator and lower radiator hose. No reason to remove them. Also once you pull the compressor up to the top, you should have the power steering bottle and line off the mounts so it's free. Then you can carefully turn the compressor and use the alternator for a backstop. This is priceless for when you're putting the parts back on. You can use a block of wood and love tap a little with a hammer. Also comes in handy getting the snap rings back in if you are like me and have no one to hold anything.

Other tools I'd say if you can't get the belt off with a 14mm wrench, pick up the loaner tool for the 14mm crow foot if you don't have one. Then you can use a longer handle ratchet with it. Also I recommend having at least a basic little impact. I needed it even with the clutch holder too I couldn't get the nut off. Walmart impact brought it right off while I used my hand for the holder. So much easier. It also came in handy while doing the clutch air gap adjustment. I was able to put on shims, tighten, check, loosen, change shims... all real easy. Also for me the bolt and screw holding the field coil wiring would have been destroyed without the impact. Head would of rounded on the little bolt, and Honda uses shitT fat head phillips screws that strip like they do it for a living. They use them on the motorcycles too. Terrible. Impact saved the day on both and I didn't have to drill and extract them and go hunt replacements.

Finally, I also wanted to add on to the resistance check on the field coil. I hate these tests. Most miss that these types of tests are temperature dependent. If you are trying to check an AC field coil, it is not going to be 68 degrees! I however happen to have a basement that is hanging at 68 degrees. So I was able to actually check at that temperature and also at the 75F given by the OP. My new coil measured 3.3 ohm at 68F and my failed coil measured 4.1 ohm at 68F which is actually out of range. At 75F there was not much difference in the two. Same can be said when it was 98F outside where I was actually working. So in the end, unless you have a 68F basement garage you will have to hope it gets down to 68F one night so you can check it... or just forgo the test and accept the field coil is gone of the clutch gap is in spec. In the end, even of my old coil measured in range at 68F it's still bad because what really matters is when it is hot enough out for AC and it's I'd guess 200F under the hood. The temperature is what makes the clutch flake out. I tested everything thinking it was something else and in the process realized it was very temperature depended and slowly getting worse. It would only work for a few minutes from a cold start once the outdoor temp got above 80F.

Extra test that is safer than tapping the clutch plate with something while it is running and calling for AC is to spray it for a bit with a water hose. Once you water cool it, it will engage again for a bit, confirming your suspicion.

 

Don’t forget the sensor in compressor. It should have continuity. Mine was intermittent and I sorted the sensor wire to get through the summer or the life of car at this point

 

I've troubleshot to a vailed compressor coil / clutch by jumping the relay and not hearing any click. measured 12v at the compressor wire when jumping the relay. I have a 2009 acura TL and am looking into replacing the clutch / coil. would it be a very similar process for the TL?