Differential Fluid
08-03-2007, 04:46 PM
#2
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I just finished changing the rear differential fluid as part of a B16 service.
It wasn't too bad. Get yourself a fluid pump to go from the bottle to the fill port.
And those plugs are very very tight. I used a 1/2 socket with a 5 inch extension and a 1/2 -> 3/8 adapter. I tried with a 3/8 but the fill plug just wouldn't budge.
The drain plug is seen here marked in yellow and the fill plug is directly above it.
2.6 qt according to the manual. So 3 quarts of ATF-Z1 from Honda cost about $21.00 total.
It wasn't too bad. Get yourself a fluid pump to go from the bottle to the fill port.
And those plugs are very very tight. I used a 1/2 socket with a 5 inch extension and a 1/2 -> 3/8 adapter. I tried with a 3/8 but the fill plug just wouldn't budge.
The drain plug is seen here marked in yellow and the fill plug is directly above it.
2.6 qt according to the manual. So 3 quarts of ATF-Z1 from Honda cost about $21.00 total.
08-06-2007, 02:46 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by clerum
I just finished changing the rear differential fluid as part of a B16 service.
It wasn't too bad. Get yourself a fluid pump to go from the bottle to the fill port.
And those plugs are very very tight. I used a 1/2 socket with a 5 inch extension and a 1/2 -> 3/8 adapter. I tried with a 3/8 but the fill plug just wouldn't budge.
The drain plug is seen here marked in yellow and the fill plug is directly above it.
2.6 qt according to the manual. So 3 quarts of ATF-Z1 from Honda cost about $21.00 total.
It wasn't too bad. Get yourself a fluid pump to go from the bottle to the fill port.
And those plugs are very very tight. I used a 1/2 socket with a 5 inch extension and a 1/2 -> 3/8 adapter. I tried with a 3/8 but the fill plug just wouldn't budge.
The drain plug is seen here marked in yellow and the fill plug is directly above it.
2.6 qt according to the manual. So 3 quarts of ATF-Z1 from Honda cost about $21.00 total.
Hey Clerum:
When did your B16 service come up at? i.e. mileage when this occured.
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09-14-2007, 12:44 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
I think the manual says the first change occurs ~ 12K, then followed by every 24K.
Given the potential challenge in removing those locking nuts, i would rather have the dealer do it, for only $80 (once a year). Especially you will need to get a fluid pump and then know how to fill the fluid level properly. This is not quite the same as an oil change.
Given the potential challenge in removing those locking nuts, i would rather have the dealer do it, for only $80 (once a year). Especially you will need to get a fluid pump and then know how to fill the fluid level properly. This is not quite the same as an oil change.
09-20-2007, 01:55 PM
#9
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Rear Differential Fluid Change
Hi sasair,
I was wondering if you could look up some info in your service manual for me.
My A16 service is due soon and I need to change the rear differential fluid. I know someone else posted a separate thread about this subject, but I would prefer to get the exact process from the service manual. I'm specifically interested in knowing the torque specs for the drain and fill bolts.....but the complete fluid change procedure from the manual would be helpful.
Do you think you could scan or photograph the pages and email them to me? My email address is theaceman@aceman-online.com
By the way....I intend to purchase the manual from helminc.com .....but the A16 service is due soon and I'm not sure if the manual will arrive in time.
Thanks,
Adrian
I was wondering if you could look up some info in your service manual for me.
My A16 service is due soon and I need to change the rear differential fluid. I know someone else posted a separate thread about this subject, but I would prefer to get the exact process from the service manual. I'm specifically interested in knowing the torque specs for the drain and fill bolts.....but the complete fluid change procedure from the manual would be helpful.
Do you think you could scan or photograph the pages and email them to me? My email address is theaceman@aceman-online.com
By the way....I intend to purchase the manual from helminc.com .....but the A16 service is due soon and I'm not sure if the manual will arrive in time.
Thanks,
Adrian
09-20-2007, 06:49 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
Procedure from the manual is very simple.
1. park on level ground
2. remove filler plug and washer
3. remove drain plug and washer
4. reinstall drain plug and new washer
5. add fluid till it reaches bottom of filler plug hole.
6. reinstall filler plug and new washer.
filler plug 47 N-m (4.8 kgf-m, 35 lbf-ft)
drain plug 47 N-m (4.8 kgf-m, 35 lbf-ft)
fluid capacity 2.67 US quarts, 2.23 imp quarts, 2.53 liters
recommended fluid: Honda ATF-Z1
As mentioned before hardest part is getting the fluid in the filler plug hole. fluid pump is best.
1. park on level ground
2. remove filler plug and washer
3. remove drain plug and washer
4. reinstall drain plug and new washer
5. add fluid till it reaches bottom of filler plug hole.
6. reinstall filler plug and new washer.
filler plug 47 N-m (4.8 kgf-m, 35 lbf-ft)
drain plug 47 N-m (4.8 kgf-m, 35 lbf-ft)
fluid capacity 2.67 US quarts, 2.23 imp quarts, 2.53 liters
recommended fluid: Honda ATF-Z1
As mentioned before hardest part is getting the fluid in the filler plug hole. fluid pump is best.
09-25-2007, 09:37 AM
#12
Senior Moderator
ah so the RDX doesnt use that VTM stuff or the Dual Pump fluid eh
Lucky for me I stocked up on a crap load of ATF-Z1 that I got a very good deal on (12L for 35 bucks)
Lucky for me I stocked up on a crap load of ATF-Z1 that I got a very good deal on (12L for 35 bucks)
09-25-2007, 03:43 PM
#14
RDX Tech - Bronze/Ebony
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Just wanted to pass along that anyone attempting to do this DIY should make sure they follow ssairs steps in the same order. Do NOT remove the drain plug prior to removing the filler plug on the off chance that you can't remove the filler plug because it's seized up.
09-25-2007, 10:22 PM
#15
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Aceman726
mau....
Where did you find the fluid at such a good price?
Where did you find the fluid at such a good price?
So I have a guy who knows a guy that hooks it up to me for very cheap
Since both my cars take atf-z1 im stocked up for a while.If only the RDX took honda s2000 oil filters
I got a ton of s2k filters I was using in my CRV and Prelude.
04-04-2008, 07:30 PM
#17
07 RDX White w/tech
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Changed my differential fluid
Holy crap ! They sure had my bolts on way too tight!
It took 3 trys for each bolt using a 1/2 inch long -armed rachet with a 3/8 end.
I like how they have the holes through the axle so you can access each bolt.
Total cost :
hand pump--8 $ at walmart
fuild----------21 $
bolt washers-2 $
total 31 bucks
Dealer charge $ 80 plus
It took 3 trys for each bolt using a 1/2 inch long -armed rachet with a 3/8 end.
I like how they have the holes through the axle so you can access each bolt.
Total cost :
hand pump--8 $ at walmart
fuild----------21 $
bolt washers-2 $
total 31 bucks
Dealer charge $ 80 plus
08-04-2008, 09:44 AM
#18
Suggestions or add on to instructions
I just changed my rear diff fluid, it was a 13.5k miles. The A6 code came up.
Here are some thoughts/advice when I did it, and just expanding on the above instructions already given.
First, someone above was concerned that it was too difficult, different from an oil change. It's actually very similiar in terms of difficulty. If you can change your oil, you can change the diff fluid yourself.
The first nice thing is that you don't even have to jack the car up, that's a nice plus. And, I would think that you would not want to jack it up, since you need the holes to be level so it contains the correct amount. If you were to jack the back up, you would probably overfill the rear diff slightly.
Second, the other nice thing is you don't need to know the size of the bolt, since it just uses the extension itself that fits in it. It's a standard 3/8 extention, probably something everyone has around the garage. More importantly, you want at least a 6 inch extention, although I found that a 12" extension gave me the most room, since it cleared some obstructions a little better. But, you will see when you look under there. If you only have little 3 inch extensions, just put a couple together, and you will have no problem.
The next thing that you will notice right away is that Acura put holes through the rear so you can't really get this wrong as to where to put the extensions into. There is a lower and an upper bolt to be removed. The upper is where you will be filling the fluid, and the lower is where you will be draining the fluid. Remove your lower one and drain away. The precaution that has been given is to make sure that you can remove the upper one before beginning to make sure you will be able to refill it upon draining.
Now to the bolts: Here's my advice. Don't try killing your self to get this open with a regular ratchet, unless you are a weightlifter or something. Go to the hardware start and buy a 'breaker' bar. My breaker bar is a 18" piece of pipe that I can fit over the ratchet. With this, it took about 3 seconds of pushing, and about 15 lbs of force to pop both bolts free. No swearing, no hammer, no busting your knuckles.
Another note here: The bolts use two different washers, make sure when you went to the store that they are indeed different when given to you. I talked with a numbnuts who kept trying to give me the oil pan washers, and those are incorrect.
When removing the bolts, verify that you have removed the washers. They commonly get crushed up and stay against the bolt hole, so unless you either see if fall into your drain pan, or you have it in your hand, it's still there. You don't want to find out that you accidently left it there and then start tightening your new washer up against the old washer.
Let the fluid drain for awhile. I noticed that after the inital drain, that it continued to drip for about 10-15 minutes to get the last 1/3 of a quart. Go get soemthing to drink or have a snack while you wait.
I know this sounds silly, but make sure that you put the lower drain plug back in before filling.
Here's where it can get messy. If someone has a great fill pump, I would love to see if posted as to where to get it. Mine is not that great, but then it was only 5 dollars.
Depending on your fill pump, make sure that the bottle is physically higher than the rear diff so that gravity will assist in draining it into the rear.
And, as long as you are filling from the top bolt, you should have no fear of overfilling, it will drain out of the top hole. Once it does, just wait a minute for the overfill to drip out, then finally tighten the top bolt.
Even with my junky pump, this whole procedure took about an hour, 99% of the time was slowly filling the diff with my little hand pump.
Cheapest place I found the dif fluid currently was at Handa Accessories online. The dealers wanted 7.48 a quart, Handa was about $6.00 with shipping. Pump was from AutoZone.
The quote from my closest dealer was $175 for the rear fluid change. When I asked why so much, he said it was an 'impossible job for someone to do at home', and required special tools. What a CROCK!
Here are some thoughts/advice when I did it, and just expanding on the above instructions already given.
First, someone above was concerned that it was too difficult, different from an oil change. It's actually very similiar in terms of difficulty. If you can change your oil, you can change the diff fluid yourself.
The first nice thing is that you don't even have to jack the car up, that's a nice plus. And, I would think that you would not want to jack it up, since you need the holes to be level so it contains the correct amount. If you were to jack the back up, you would probably overfill the rear diff slightly.
Second, the other nice thing is you don't need to know the size of the bolt, since it just uses the extension itself that fits in it. It's a standard 3/8 extention, probably something everyone has around the garage. More importantly, you want at least a 6 inch extention, although I found that a 12" extension gave me the most room, since it cleared some obstructions a little better. But, you will see when you look under there. If you only have little 3 inch extensions, just put a couple together, and you will have no problem.
The next thing that you will notice right away is that Acura put holes through the rear so you can't really get this wrong as to where to put the extensions into. There is a lower and an upper bolt to be removed. The upper is where you will be filling the fluid, and the lower is where you will be draining the fluid. Remove your lower one and drain away. The precaution that has been given is to make sure that you can remove the upper one before beginning to make sure you will be able to refill it upon draining.
Now to the bolts: Here's my advice. Don't try killing your self to get this open with a regular ratchet, unless you are a weightlifter or something. Go to the hardware start and buy a 'breaker' bar. My breaker bar is a 18" piece of pipe that I can fit over the ratchet. With this, it took about 3 seconds of pushing, and about 15 lbs of force to pop both bolts free. No swearing, no hammer, no busting your knuckles.
Another note here: The bolts use two different washers, make sure when you went to the store that they are indeed different when given to you. I talked with a numbnuts who kept trying to give me the oil pan washers, and those are incorrect.
When removing the bolts, verify that you have removed the washers. They commonly get crushed up and stay against the bolt hole, so unless you either see if fall into your drain pan, or you have it in your hand, it's still there. You don't want to find out that you accidently left it there and then start tightening your new washer up against the old washer.
Let the fluid drain for awhile. I noticed that after the inital drain, that it continued to drip for about 10-15 minutes to get the last 1/3 of a quart. Go get soemthing to drink or have a snack while you wait.
I know this sounds silly, but make sure that you put the lower drain plug back in before filling.
Here's where it can get messy. If someone has a great fill pump, I would love to see if posted as to where to get it. Mine is not that great, but then it was only 5 dollars.
Depending on your fill pump, make sure that the bottle is physically higher than the rear diff so that gravity will assist in draining it into the rear.
And, as long as you are filling from the top bolt, you should have no fear of overfilling, it will drain out of the top hole. Once it does, just wait a minute for the overfill to drip out, then finally tighten the top bolt.
Even with my junky pump, this whole procedure took about an hour, 99% of the time was slowly filling the diff with my little hand pump.
Cheapest place I found the dif fluid currently was at Handa Accessories online. The dealers wanted 7.48 a quart, Handa was about $6.00 with shipping. Pump was from AutoZone.
The quote from my closest dealer was $175 for the rear fluid change. When I asked why so much, he said it was an 'impossible job for someone to do at home', and required special tools. What a CROCK!
01-30-2009, 06:39 AM
#20
Instructor
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I just found something that made the fill easier than ever. It is at Autozone called a suction pump. It's just a large black metal cylinder. On one end a metal handle attached to a rod that goes inside it. The other side has a little nipple, and it comes with a 12" plastic hose.
You put the hose into your bottle of oil, pull the handle, and whoom, in goes 1/2 Quart. Put the hose into the fill hole of the Diff, push the handle, and in goes all the oil.
With my old little oil can, this job would have taken me an hour, literally. This took me 5 minutes.
You put the hose into your bottle of oil, pull the handle, and whoom, in goes 1/2 Quart. Put the hose into the fill hole of the Diff, push the handle, and in goes all the oil.
With my old little oil can, this job would have taken me an hour, literally. This took me 5 minutes.
03-28-2009, 06:53 PM
#21
9th Gear
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Hey guys...
Is the Differential Fluid same as the transmission fluid?? I mean differential is transmission and transmission is differential (not the fluid itself, the location) .. or they are totally different thing? In other words, is the differential on the RDX = to automatic transmission on a civic??
it be very helpful...
thanks in advance....
Is the Differential Fluid same as the transmission fluid?? I mean differential is transmission and transmission is differential (not the fluid itself, the location) .. or they are totally different thing? In other words, is the differential on the RDX = to automatic transmission on a civic??
it be very helpful...
thanks in advance....
04-09-2009, 02:44 PM
#23
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hey man..
How you doing? I need you help... I'm about to change the differential fluid on my RDX.. Just want to know where you get the washer for that bolt.. I try looking for it around most of the auto part store in town, only place I didnt try is the dealer.. Is it the same washer as the bolt on the transmission? this is my first time changing differential fluid.. I know how to change the other fluid and oil.. just never did it before.. The dealer change me over $300 with b16 service.. Just wanta save some $$$..
Thanks in advance...
How you doing? I need you help... I'm about to change the differential fluid on my RDX.. Just want to know where you get the washer for that bolt.. I try looking for it around most of the auto part store in town, only place I didnt try is the dealer.. Is it the same washer as the bolt on the transmission? this is my first time changing differential fluid.. I know how to change the other fluid and oil.. just never did it before.. The dealer change me over $300 with b16 service.. Just wanta save some $$$..
Thanks in advance...
04-09-2009, 03:26 PM
#24
Cruisin'
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300.00, wow!!! Mine was 120.00, they threw in the oil change for free. Only charged for the rotation and balance, and diff change. In and out in about an hour. They washed and vacuumed too.
04-10-2009, 05:37 PM
#27
Anyone use an impact wrench to remove the nut? I just bought a DeWalt D55168 compressor and looking for a reason to use it besides spot painting the house.
DeWalt 55168: http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...roductID=15014
DeWalt 55168: http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...roductID=15014
Last edited by SinCity; 04-10-2009 at 05:41 PM.
04-23-2009, 08:04 PM
#29
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OK..so I looked up
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3D2%26hl%3Den
for DIY instructions on the MDX.
it asks to drop the spare tire. is that required for the RDX..or can i simply crawl under to do the job?
Can you also tell me the size of the washers that will be required for the drain plug and the fill plug?
Thanks a ton! Also, if someone has an image of the rdx differential will fill and drain plugs marked.. it would help beginners like me to diy...I'm sure i can figure that out without the image..but no chances with my RDX.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3D2%26hl%3Den
for DIY instructions on the MDX.
it asks to drop the spare tire. is that required for the RDX..or can i simply crawl under to do the job?
Can you also tell me the size of the washers that will be required for the drain plug and the fill plug?
Thanks a ton! Also, if someone has an image of the rdx differential will fill and drain plugs marked.. it would help beginners like me to diy...I'm sure i can figure that out without the image..but no chances with my RDX.
04-26-2009, 06:55 PM
#31
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Thanks vrflyer. I thought so too looking under.
Washer sizes on drain and fill plug ? I am still 950 miles short of 15k...getting prepped...
Another question about the 3/8" ratchet...I understand that a pipe or breaker bar would help with torque... but won't a standard ratchet provide enough leverage...I had no trouble opening the engine oil drain plug with the same ratchet...
Thanks again
Washer sizes on drain and fill plug ? I am still 950 miles short of 15k...getting prepped...
Another question about the 3/8" ratchet...I understand that a pipe or breaker bar would help with torque... but won't a standard ratchet provide enough leverage...I had no trouble opening the engine oil drain plug with the same ratchet...
Thanks again
04-28-2009, 06:42 PM
#32
Racer
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Just go to your local Acura/Honda dealer for the washer (Honda shares same part number for the transmission washer/ring). As for the ratchet it is 3/8" and you will need an extension 4-6" in length. A 12" breaker bar or a 1" ratchet with a reducer should do the job due to it's odd location.
05-15-2009, 08:11 AM
#34
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OK, just called rdx parts store -- they tell me both the drain and fill plug use same washer size ...they are 20 mm crush washers. I will get these before changing my rear diff oil. If anyone thinks its different please IM.
05-16-2009, 05:28 PM
#36
Just performed my A16 service this morning. It was a breeze provided you have the proper tools. No need to use a breaker bar on the differential for me; just brute strength using a regular 8" Craftsman ratchet. 
Also, no need to raise the vehicle, but I did drive the rear wheels up on some 2x6's to give me a little extra space. For a fluid pump, I used one that I bought from Harbor Freight for approx $5 on sale and a 1 liter Aquafina water bottle with "big mouth" to fit the fluid pump. One bottle of Acura ATF fluid fits inside the Aquafina bottle so it was perfect!
The two sizes of washers for the differential are different. Using a digital caliper, here is what I measured:
Oil washer is aprrox 21.7 mm overall diameter.
Differential fill washer is approx 27.77 mm overall diameter.
Differential drain washer is approx 25.6 mm overall diameter.
Aquafina bottle and fluid pump:
Ready to do some pumping
:
Also, no need to raise the vehicle, but I did drive the rear wheels up on some 2x6's to give me a little extra space. For a fluid pump, I used one that I bought from Harbor Freight for approx $5 on sale and a 1 liter Aquafina water bottle with "big mouth" to fit the fluid pump. One bottle of Acura ATF fluid fits inside the Aquafina bottle so it was perfect!
The two sizes of washers for the differential are different. Using a digital caliper, here is what I measured:
Oil washer is aprrox 21.7 mm overall diameter.
Differential fill washer is approx 27.77 mm overall diameter.
Differential drain washer is approx 25.6 mm overall diameter.
Aquafina bottle and fluid pump:
Ready to do some pumping
:
05-16-2009, 05:33 PM
#37
WRONG! The oil, diff fill, and diff drain are all different sizes. Stupid IMO.
05-16-2009, 10:49 PM
#38
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05-16-2009, 11:33 PM
#39
Sorry. I meant OD. The ID is also different on both diff washers. I just took the measurements from the digital measuring caliper so that you could tell the Parts Desk on what to look for. I guess they used two different sizes so people will not mistakenly put the magenetized drain plug as the fill plug. To make things simple, they could have used the same washer/plug on the diff fill and engine oil drain.
Last edited by SinCity; 05-16-2009 at 11:35 PM.
05-16-2009, 11:45 PM
#40
Harbor Freight's website doesn't list the fluid pump but it probably should be a regluar stocked item. Here it is on CRC Industries website:
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...ss.aspx?ID=161
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...ss.aspx?ID=161