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It has been about a month, so I figured I would take some time to update this progress thread. On January 5, I used my wife's RDX to run a few errands while she was at work. I noticed the car pulling to the left pretty intensely, so I stopped at a local bank to see if something was wrong. Lo and behold, I had a flat tire
Fortunately, Discount Tire was only a mile down the road, so I stopped in to see if the tire could be repaired.Luckily, it was just a nail and it did not impact the sidewall. A plug was installed and the RDX was back in business.
During the Holiday break, I took care of some additional maintenance and replaced all four spark plugs.
1) Spark Plugs Replaced
Part #: 12290-RWC-A0 (x4)
I referenced these great tutorials to assist with completing this task. This write-up and these videos are lengthy, but the length is warranted due to the extensive amount of labor involved with this job. https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...-plugs-792921/
I had to remove the intercooler in order to gain access to the coils.
Underneath the intercooler was a cover that was held in place with four bolts. This also had to be removed.
After the cover was removed, I cleaned up the area with some dish soap and proceeded to remove the first coil.
After the first coil was removed, naturally I planned to remove the first spark plug. To remove each spark plug, a 5/8'' spark plug socket is needed. However, this was my first time replacing spark plugs, so I needed to purchase a spark plug socket. I decided to order a set of Craftsman sockets several weeks prior and never looked at them closely upon delivery. When I went to grab the 5/8'' socket, I noticed there were actually two 13/16'' sockets, but no 5/8'' socket. Ughhhhh....
Me, being the idiot that I am, already had everything disassembled, so I had to wait for my wife to get home before I could head to Home Depot and buy the correct size spark plug socket. I checked online first, and Home Depot's website said they only had one socket left in stock. Luckily, I was able to locate the pesky little thing after about 15 minutes of searching through the aisles. It was like finding a treasure chest at the end of a rainbow
When I returned, I removed each spark plug and added a dab of anti-seize when installing the new spark plugs.
For comparison purposes, below are some images that show the old and new spark plugs. I am not certain, but I believe these were the original spark plugs. The Acura RDX was at 112,500 miles when I replaced these.
During this process, I did make a few mistakes. The first mistake I made was that I over-tightened one of the rusty bolts on the cover when I was reinstalling the intercooler. I torqued the bolt just a little too much and the head snapped right off . Fortunately, the cover is held on with three other bolts and it felt fairly secure. It was unfortunate, but I"m not too worried about it.
The second mistake I made was that I was too aggressive when I removed the rubber bypass hoses. I used a hose pick and the point of the pick poked through the brittle end on one of the rubber hoses. When I reinstalled the hose, I wrapped some black Duct tape around the split end and placed the hose clamp over top of the tape. I haven't noticed any issues yet, so I think this will continue to be okay. However, I will continue to monitor this on an ongoing basis. If I need to replace the hose, it is like a $5 part.
The next few items relate to an installation that I performed a few weeks ago. I didn't want to just update my progress thread, so I created a separate DIY-type thread that highlights how I installed these items: https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...ra-rdx-976830/
2) Factory Radio Interface Installed
Part #: HP Pac ISHD651 iSimple
3) USB Auxiliary Dash Port Installed
Part #: TNP USB RCA Flush Mount Cable Dashboard Panel Dash Mount Port
4) Auxiliary Cord Adapter Installed
Part #: Kmile 3.5mm Stereo Jack Adapter
I have a 2009, I wish we had Bluetooth audio streaming. We only have the aux cord and my phone doesn’t even have that anymore. XM radio it is I guess...
I have a 2009, I wish we had Bluetooth audio streaming. We only have the aux cord and my phone doesn’t even have that anymore. XM radio it is I guess...
Awesome thread. Thanks for all the info. Especially the transmission fluid siphon. I'm inspired to work on my RDX that I just picked up this week. 92.5k miles Gray with Black interior. Will be going through the same processes.
Awesome thread. Thanks for all the info. Especially the transmission fluid siphon. I'm inspired to work on my RDX that I just picked up this week. 92.5k miles Gray with Black interior. Will be going through the same processes.
I know nothing about Acura color codes. LOL, I just know Gray, Black, Silver, and White. Never seen red out there but never seen one in the wild.
Not many red RDX's out there! mr.gold35 has a beautiful 2008 RDX tech that is modded!
2007 used Carbon Gray Pearl... A TSX (and 2007 TL only) color. For 2008, Acura switched to Polised Metal Metallic, a slightly lighter, more metallic gray! They're both beautiful colors!
Not many red RDX's out there! mr.gold35 has a beautiful 2008 RDX tech that is modded!
2007 used Carbon Gray Pearl... A TSX (and 2007 TL only) color. For 2008, Acura switched to Polised Metal Metallic, a slightly lighter, more metallic gray! They're both beautiful colors!
Thanks for clarifying. Now that I think about it, my buddy's 2007 is darker.
It has been a while since I've updated my thread and I have been busy over the past few months. Therefore, I'm taking a little time on this rainy Sunday afternoon to update my journey.
Earlier in March, my wife's 2007 Acura RDX began throwing a "Check Brake System" light. Like many other 1st generation RDX owners, the "Check Brake System" light would illuminate in extremely cold temperatures and once the engine warmed up, the light would go away. However, once the spring temperatures came, I found that the light would periodically come back for unknown reasons. Eventually, the light remained constant and I checked the Messages log and found two codes:
Brake System: P16DB
Brake System: P16DD
My research pointed towards a bad brake booster or bad brake booster relays. Unfortunately, my OBDII scan tool broke recently, so I asked my wife to make a trip to our local Honda dealership to get and OBDII scan to ensure there weren't any additional codes. The Honda dealership near my home is top-notch and they have excellent reviews. I don't usually take my vehicles to ANY mechanic shop unless I am unable to diagnose my own problems. If I do run into a bind, I bring my 2005 Acura TL and wife's 2007 Acura RDX to my local Honda dealership, because I trust them. They have excellent ratings and have ALWAYS treated me fairly and with class. A friend of mine is a technician that works there and he is always 100% honest with me. Unfortunately, he didn't have any gaps in his schedule the other day, so my wife met with someone else.
Upon further inspection, the technician found the following diagram in the owners manual.
The service writer explained to me that the bracket holding the secondary fuse box became detached and the fuse box was being exposed to the elements near the wheel well. Moister had made its way into the secondary fuse box and ruined three relays. He texted me the below image.
To replace the relays, the dealership wanted to charge nearly $400 to which I laughed. Replacing these relays takes like 15 seconds, so obviously, I passed and switched these out myself.
The service writer completely understood my decision and even went the extra mile. He told me to call him on his personal cell phone if I run into any issues when trying to replace the relays since this is not a common fuse box location (and many people miss this). I'm glad that we brought her RDX into the shop, because there is not much information online (Acurazine or other websites) , regarding these codes for our 1st generation RDXs. Since replacing the relays and cleaning the secondary fusing box, all issues have been resolved.
FYI - The original part number for the relays is 39794-SDA-A03, which is manufactured by OMRON in the USA and is still listed on many OEM Acura websites as the correct relay. The upgraded replacement part number is 39794-SDA-A05 and is manufactured by MITSUBA in Vietnam. I believe this is what many of you are referring to. However, please keep in mind that the "upgraded" relay is only in reference to the sticking A/C clutch. To my knowledge, you should not simply replace all A03s with A05s.
In the future, if I have any issues with these relays, I can upgrade to A05s potentially. However, I wanted to follow Acura's current recommendation and for $11 I took the risk.
Additionally, one of the major service matters that I have been procrastinating with was replacing the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear transmission pressure switches. Just like many other engine components, these mechanical/electrical parts can wear out over time. Since my wife's 2007 Acura RDX is now over 100,000 miles, I figured it was time to replace these. While everything was disassembled, I also planned to clean the shift solenoids, replace the gaskets, and replace the rubber O-rings. Since there aren’t many useful images to assist with completing this task, I will upload a few to the following thread, which has great information:
Additionally, "Transmission System: P0847" was stored in the in the computer's Messages log. This was dated back to 2017 (before we purchased the vehicle) and there have been no Check Engine Lights (CELs) since we’ve owned this vehicle. Therefore my assumption was that this was an old code and the previous owner (or owner’s mechanic) simply forgot to clear the Diagnostic. Regardless, I decided to replace all transmission pressure switches for peace of mind.
1) 3rd Gear Transmission Pressure Switch Replaced
Part #: 28610-RKE-004
8) Solenoid 1 Gasket Replaced
Part #: 28262-RDK-000
9) Solenoid 1 O-Rings Replaced
Part #: 91301-PC9-003 (x 2)
*I did not complete steps 10 through 12. I could not figure out how to reach the second solenoid, so this remained untouched. If, in the future, I find a way to access this, I will open it up and clean it.
10) Solenoid 2 Cleaned
11) Solenoid 2 Gasket Replaced
Part #: 2852-RDK-000
12) Solenoid 2 O-Rings Replaced
Part #: 91301-PC9-003 (x 3)
After replacing all three transmission pressure switches and cleaning solenoid 1, I took the RDX for a test drive. Within 30 seconds, the CEL came on, a "Check Transmission" light popped up, and "Code: P0848" flashed on the navigation screen. Oh crap! What did I do?
I spent the next few hours troubleshooting. I took everything apart and reinstalled all components, making sure ensure all parts were installed correctly. After hours of being unsuccessful, I felt defeated. I took a deep breath and went inside for the night. After taking a shower and finding some time to relax, I began visiting some Acura TL transmission threads that I bookmarked. In the 3g TL threads, ironically Wild Wild West was also having an issue with his transmission after replacing his transmission pressure switch with the same part # that he purchased from eBay. After reviewing some of my phone's images, I noticed that the third gear transmission pressure switch was in different packing than the 2nd and 4th gear switches.I also bought an "OEM" pressure switch on eBay with the exact same packaging.. Even though it was bubble wrapped with a Honda sticker, I was starting to believe it was a fake after seeing the Wild Wild West 's post here:
If you refer to my images below, you will see several Honda parts that I purchased with the three pressure switches. Two switches came from amazon (28600-RKE-004) and one came from ebay (28610-RKE-004). The one from eBay came in bubble wrap while the others came in sealed Honda bags. The two gaskets that I purchased and the five rubber O-rings also came in sealed Honda bags. Additionally, the two pressure switches from Amazon also came with a plastic insert that was plugged into the electrical connector. The eBay switch did not have a plastic insert. (Please note that the crush washers are held in a zip lock bag because I lost the original packaging a year ago. these were OEM washers).
Given the fact that the price was near $30 as opposed to $50, I should have known this was probably too good to be true despite having excellent reviews on eBay. After this discovery, I re-installed the original OEM 3rd gear transmission pressure switch and the engine codes went away! Fortunately (or unfortunately - depending on how you look at it), I found the problem .
This just goes to show that you can't always trust positive reviews. Sure, if you bought a set of "OEM" brake pads from eBay, you might not notice a difference. However, electrical components are a different story. The Acura computer is too smart to know when an inferior/non-functioning part is installed.
With my discovery, I messaged the eBay seller and here is the chain:
Dear customer Don’t worry , we will solve the problem with you We can confirm that it is genuine part. We sold many and never have problem with other customer. Could you please provide me more detail your car your old part number? We want to confirm that it fits your car or not Waiting for your reply Regards Jenney
Your previous message
Hi there,
This item does not appear to be an OEM part, despite being advertised as one. The packaging does not come in a Honda sealed bag and there was no plastic insert covering the electrical connector. Despite seeing these noticeable differences, I went ahead and installed the pressure switch into my vehicle. Instantly I received the dreaded blinking "D" light and engine diagnostic code P0848. As soon as I swapped it with my old pressure switch, the error codes went away.
I know the 30 day window has lapsed, but my maintenance got very behind schedule. If possible, I'd like to return this for a refund.
Thanks in advance for your consideration.
Kind regards,
Josh
I have not pursued this further, but at this point, I don't really care since I received my new transmission pressure switch from the Delray Acura yesterday. Not to my surprise, it came in a sealed "Honda" bag with the plastic protector just like the others.
After installing the new switch, there are no CELs, no blinking "D", and the shifts are smooth. This was probably my first and last bad experience with eBay after buying "OEM" automotive parts. I've used eBay for nearly 10 years now without any major issues. I usually make sure to buy only OEM parts from top-rated sellers with excellent reviews. However, my due diligence wasn't enough this time and I paid the price after buying a faulty switch from a impostor. I won't make that mistake again.
Here are some comparison shots. From left to right (Old OEM, New OEM, eBay Knockoff)
I wouldn't necessarily say I "cheaped" out on the transmission maintenance. I simply thought I was buying a genuine OEM Honda part at a reasonable price. Either way, it's over with and I'm moving on.
After of the transmission work, the LAST item on my maintenance schedule was replacing the oil, oil drain crush washer, and oil filter. Last fall, I started all of this maintenance at 110,000 miles with changing the oil. My goal was to finish all of this before the next oil change at 115,000 miles. With nasty Michigan winters and going through tax season, I knew it would be a challenge. As of today, the Acura RDX is at 116,400-ish miles and is running great
1) Oil Replaced
Part #: Mobil 1 5W-30 Full Synthetic High Mileage
2) Oil Filter Replaced Part #: Mobil 1 M1-110A Extended Performance Oil Filter
3) Oil Drain Crush Washer Replaced Part #: Honda 94109-14000
Lastly, I also upgraded the wheel center caps with some chrome ones that I found online.
4) Wheel Center Caps Upgraded/Replaced
Part #: Acura 44742-SJA-300
Maybe this week I'll find some time to clean the RDX and post some pictures. This summer I will be spending a few days performing a full paint restoration and interior detail. I just need to find some time where I can spend 2 full days working on this. Maybe the 4th of July weekend will be a good time to do all of this. It's time that the random orbital polisher come out of hibernation anyways
Lol, why thank you. I hate the OEM bulbs. They just look awful and produce such minimal output.
When it is time for me to change my bulbs I'll come back and get the details from here, or perhaps when some of the priorities in my life get checked off my never ending list.
Nothing official - some people do it as preventative. If they fail completely you should get a code, but if it's shifting rougher than normal even after a flush, you may consider replacing the switches.
Hey man!
Great work but just a warning - The Mobile 1 High Mileage oil isn't rated for Acura/Honda's HTO-06 standard. It's possible the wrong oil can increase buildup in the engine.
Only the regular 5W-30 meets the standard.
Is there a maintenance interval for the solenoid and pressure switches? I've never heard of replacing them.
There is no specific maintenance interval, but I will likely change them out again after another 30,000 miles. Instead of performing a 3x drain and re-fill on the tranny, I will start do drain and refill every other oil change (or 10,000 miles) After 30,000 miles, the fluid has been cycled and I think it will be a good time to replace the pressure switches as well.
Originally Posted by Tomtwtwtw
Nothing official - some people do it as preventative. If they fail completely you should get a code, but if it's shifting rougher than normal even after a flush, you may consider replacing the switches.
Spot on...
Originally Posted by TheCanadian
Hey man!
Great work but just a warning - The Mobile 1 High Mileage oil isn't rated for Acura/Honda's HTO-06 standard. It's possible the wrong oil can increase buildup in the engine.
Only the regular 5W-30 meets the standard.
Very good information to take not of... I will keep this in mind for my next oil change .
PS - After two years, I finally located a brand new OEM Front Underbody Spoiler in WDP !!!!! I pulled the trigger and bought it on eBay, so I will be installing this after a thorough detailing.
I also need to begin my annual maintenance, since the Acura RDX is approaching 120,000 miles (10,000th mile interval).
Leather Restoration
Air Filter Replacement
Cabin Filter Replacement
Oil Replacement
Transfer Case Fluid Replacement
Differential Fluid Replacement
Transmission Fluid Replacement
Hey man!
Great work but just a warning - The Mobile 1 High Mileage oil isn't rated for Acura/Honda's HTO-06 standard. It's possible the wrong oil can increase buildup in the engine.
Only the regular 5W-30 meets the standard.
Does this apply to 07/08 TLs?
Just want to double check
I've been look for the rear diffuser for years now...body shop misplaced my spare one that I had left there to get pained after someone rear ended me. They ended up giving me a free detail & the money I paid for it after they couldn't find a replacement.
Earlier this summer, I was not able to complete steps 10-12 from my transmission maintenance. However, I recently grabbed life by the horns and figured out how to access the second linear solenoid.
10) Solenoid 2 Cleaned
11) Solenoid 2 Gasket Replaced Part #: 2852-RDK-000
12) Solenoid 2 O-Rings Replaced Part #: 91301-PC9-003 (x 3)
01-30-2019, 09:18 PM
. Fortunately, the cover is held on with three other bolts and it felt fairly secure. It was unfortunate, but I"m not too worried about it.
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let's hope it shows up in a sealed Honda bag! 
FFS 
